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150mm is equivalent to a 50mm on 35mm.
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Feb 7, 2013 17:53
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 14:34 |
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Soviet gear is so hit and miss quality wise it's really hard to recommend it to someone as their only camera. I can recommend Yashicas as a solid middle of the road camera for not much money, my first 120 camera was a Yashica 635.
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Feb 8, 2013 06:36
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 The Hasselkrew is severely underrepresented in this thread. Here is an effort post in case any of you scrubs don't know how to load an A12 back.Start with a nice smooth working surface (completely optional unless you are taking photos of the process).  Grab a roll of your favorite film (  Tri-X ). Remove the film insert from the shell of the back  Make sure to rotate the release catch to retract the presure plate  Hold on to the paper leader  Insert the roll with the backing paper's outer side facing the rollers on the film carrier  Slide the paper underneath the highly technical metal bit that does something important for film flatness (maybe).  Slide the paper into the empty spool and turn the knob until the arrow on the film lines up with the highly technical red triangle on the insert.  Now crank that sucker like it owes you money. The A12 (or 24, don't use an A16 those are scrub tier) is so named because it will automatically stop at frame one.  I did find out the hard way that crank will only stop on frame one. So if you are on frame 6 and jostle it taking the camera out of your bag, whelp. Gaffer tape fixes this and serves as a reminder that you remembered to actually load your camera.  my lens was made in west germany snype EDIT: fixed spelling errors 8th-snype fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Feb 8, 2013 |
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Feb 8, 2013 14:28
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QPZIL posted:How's that? What kind of monster desaturates a photo and leaves in the the 400VC border? MY IMMERSION! Edit: Also the camera in the V series photo doesn't have mirror lock up so it has to be a 500c not a 500c/m. 8th-snype fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Feb 8, 2013 |
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Feb 8, 2013 16:23
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I'm glad that it isn't your photo. Everytime I look at it I see something else that infuriates me. Dutch angle, B&W with C41 border, fork for no reason, gooniest hat this side of fedoraville, fork for no reason, fleece? I bet that man is also wearing jorts (the photographer too probably). I mean, it's a good example photo. "Start shooting medium format or some fuckwit will use all the film to make things like this."-->
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Feb 8, 2013 16:42
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moonduck posted:My 500c has mirror lock-up. Some 500c cameras have mirror lock up, especially later ones. All 500c/m have lock up though so that not having it makes it a c model.
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Feb 8, 2013 22:43
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Spedman posted:
That photo owns.I'm just gonna leave this here, http://www.chamonixviewcamera.com/wetplateholders.html
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Feb 9, 2013 10:38
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I look forward to seeing the results. I want to get into tintypes some time in the next year or two.
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Feb 9, 2013 10:58
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Captain Postal posted:I don't know why anyone would choose a 500 over a 200. Leaf shutters own, that's why. 
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Feb 9, 2013 11:52
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Krispy Kareem posted:
I didn't even have the 35mm adapter. It was just a decent little 120 camera.
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Feb 11, 2013 04:59
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pootiebigwang posted:You can also ship it to http://www.david-odess.com/repair.html and he will repair your back for 90 dollars, though I have never had to go through him myself. It's supposed to focus at f/2.8 all the time. Did you hit the DOF preview button and then not reset it?
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Feb 11, 2013 18:25
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McMadCow posted:Thanks! I was looking for a monorail with a portrait lens. I put an offer on a field camera, though, because it has movements. I don't need crazy amounts of movement, but I wanted to be able to scheimpflug eyes if I'm shooting close in. Monorail will get you more movements than a field camera but the gemneral consensus from people on LFF is tha you don't need lots of movements for portaits. I think either will work for you. I am looking to pick up one of those 150mm tessars for portraits myself.
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Feb 12, 2013 02:50
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ExecuDork posted:184mm seems like a really odd focal length. Is this camera old enough that non-metric units were used when it was originally designed? A quick calculation suggests 7 1/4 inches = 184mm. Kodak's 203mm Ektar would like a a word with you.  Lensmakers basically used to label stuff how ever they wanted and some of them were a bit more exact than others.
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Feb 14, 2013 03:24
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I bet it's the holder leaking.
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Feb 17, 2013 02:34
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:Welp, I bit the bullet and got a new back for my (school's) Sinar F. Gonna shoot like 22 frames this weekend, my back already hates me. I will be bringing my Pentax 6x7 + 3 lenses, a 5DMK2 with two lenses, and the Sinar F with 3 lenses. Uh why? Unless you mean in a bag in the trunk of the car. I used to carry two medium format systems around and gently caress bothering with a DSLR if you are hauling film gear.
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Feb 22, 2013 07:06
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Arista EDU ultra is cheap and has nice tonality, I use the 200 in 4x5. It can get a little grainy in smaller formats and has the worst reciprocity failure you could possibly imagine. Other good options are Acros 100 for slower stuff, and HP5+ or Tri-X 400 for high speed work.
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Feb 23, 2013 06:59
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Welp, pulled test roll out of the tank, and something's not right with the Pentax 6x7 I bought It will most likely be cheaper to just replace it if any sort of electronics are involved. I don't think 67 parts will work in older 6x7s.
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Feb 26, 2013 07:31
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QPZIL posted:Wait you... you used paper as a negative, and then enlarged it ONTO paper? Did you actually enlarge, or could you theoretically shoot a paper negative and then make a contact print onto another paper? I read an article years ago in Black & White Photography (a wonderful UK photo magazine BTW). It was about how you could make a paper negative and then use a lightbox and a pencil to dodge it by shading on the back of the paper as a way to make a contact print but have more control over the final image.
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Feb 28, 2013 04:17
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GWBBQ posted:Is this a good deal if it actually works? http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/pho/3647418207.html It's not a great deal, but tessar rolleis are great apart from the dark focusing screen.
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Feb 28, 2013 18:45
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McMadCow posted:$200 is a great deal for a Rolleiflex. At least where I'm from. It might be a little pricey for a Rolleicord. User tessar Rolleiflexs seem to go for between $200 and $300 on ebay, the later planar and xenotar models are much more desirable and expensive. I have a post war Automat myself and apart from a giant scratch in the taking lens and the dark finder, it's a lovely camera. I only payed like $100 or $150 for mine because the previous owner had savaged it with an ill fitting leather replacement kit and spray paint.  DSC_2823 by 8th-samurai, on Flickr If you have $200 and don't already own a TLR you should buy a Rollei.  20100909-002 by 8th-samurai, on Flickr
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Mar 1, 2013 06:31
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I went to his workshop figuring I would get to network with some local photographers and learn a bit. Turned out most of the people that showed up were from out of town and not that interesting to talk to because they were actually sort of bad photo takers. The group critique was... interesting. Lou Bedlam is a pretty cool guy though, chatted with him a bit. I wouldn't do another one of his workshops but would totally buy the guy a beer if he was ever in town again I used to get similar noise from my v600, I think it's just a limitation of the cheaper scanners.
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Mar 1, 2013 16:47
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It was basically people trying to say nice things about photos taken by mediocre flickr photographers. So a bit awkward. get a v700 you won't regret it.
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Mar 1, 2013 16:59
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hcenvirons posted:Yeah, I was pretty amazed by its size. This isn't my only camera so I'll end up using this for more planned outings since I already have a 35mm film camera and a t3i with a decent amount of lenses. Thanks for the tips, though! I'm looking forward to forcing myself into a much more methodical and type of photography. I use this lightmeter app https://play.google.com/store/apps/...G9tZXRyb05hIl0. It is the most accurate one I have found so far and reflected mode will use the rear camera which rules.
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Mar 5, 2013 13:50
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Dear people who want an incident meter, buy a Gossen Digisix.
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Mar 5, 2013 18:53
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aliencowboy posted:Can anyone comment on the performance of Radionar lenses? I know they aren't particularly sharp, but I was looking at picking up a Rolfix someone local is advertising for pretty cheap. I'm mostly curious if it'll have any use at anything wider than f/8. Looks like the radionar is a triplet design which would make it a bit soft at wide open but fine stopped down past f/11ish. This is not bad news because using a zone focusing folder is painful at best at larger apertures.
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Mar 8, 2013 14:25
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I used gaffer tape to pad the edge of the VF on my Pentax 67 and haven't had any glasses gouging. BTW anyone that likes that photo should go to the classified thread and buy my P67. I need 4x5 film and beer money 
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Mar 15, 2013 18:51
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This would be better if it wasn't all crooked (or if it had an interesting subject/composition).
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Mar 17, 2013 00:39
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Seriously, anyone considering LF should buy a Chamonix and be done with it. It is unironically the best camera I have ever used.
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Apr 3, 2013 07:00
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I meant people that didn't already own an actual LF camera.
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Apr 4, 2013 01:00
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VomitOnLino posted:Hm, to be that's a bit akin to starting MF with a Hasselblad. Sure it's a drat fine camera and very workable, but for people who aren't even sure that they're gonna stick with it that's one hell of an investment. Add to that that an LF camera is probably even harder to unload than a MF outfit... and yeah. Well sure, if you want to buy a scrub camera as your first LF camera.  Seriouspost: I recommend the Chamonix so often because frankly it's a brilliant camera and would be dead simple to get rid of if you no longer wanted it. You might have to sit on a Speed Graphic a while before someone buys it but list a Chamonix (or any other desirable modern 4x5) kit on LFF or ebay and you can pretty much guarantee to sell it. This is not to say that a Speed or cheap monorail camera is a bad choice but if you are certain you will like 4x5 (and after a few sheets of Portra 400 you will be) might as well get a kit you are more willing to use and carry. Basically the same reasons I do recommend Hasselblads to people buying medium format cameras.
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Apr 4, 2013 03:24
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Truth. I just sold my Pentax 67 kit and only took a loss because I would rather have cash in hand than deal with ebay and shipping. I look at it as spending about $100 to rent the camera for the year I had it.
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Apr 5, 2013 08:03
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Spedman posted:My new home made 8x10 sliding box camera. Built out of 12mm thick plywood and all cut with a handsaw. The lens is a big C-Claron Schneider lens I picked up at a photography swap meet, and the wet plate holder is from Chamonix. The lens being the whole reason I built the camera, it'd break any other camera I have that I would mount it on. I’ve just got to finish it off with a elasticated back made from MDF, and I’ll need to find some frosted glass/acrylic. But in the meantime I'll just some baking paper as the focusing screen. Oh, and I built it in portrait orientation, I found I shoot nearly 80% that way: Rad as gently caress, also just make some legit ground glass. http://www.apug.org/forums/forum216/78392-making-ground-glass-focus-screen.html
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Apr 7, 2013 13:54
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If it is a C Claron it might not cover 8x10 at distance you could try it stopped down to see.
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Apr 13, 2013 13:42
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Fragrag posted:Can you please explain the movements of your lens and what you hoped to achieve with it? I still don't understand how to apply Scheimpflug in practice. Don't apply it to XKCD Larper IRL unless you like getting your balls crushed. That is tip #1.
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Apr 18, 2013 07:57
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Well, if we are actually gonna be helpful then this page is great. http://www.toyoview.com/LargeFrmtTech/lgformat.html Digging up a copy of Ansel Adams "The Camera" might also be benificial.
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Apr 18, 2013 08:21
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Speed Graphics are cool, but they are heavy and not as full featured as more expensive 4x5 cameras. That Polaroid back is a #545 and useless since it's for film you can't get anymore. The two wooden holders are junk and the "rare" bag magazine is cheap on ebay. Still $100 is an okay price for the camera and lens, but you could probably get one with a rangefinder for a little more. I doubt you would lose money though if you bought it, there always seems to be people looking for cheap Speeds for projects.
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Apr 19, 2013 11:44
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If that's a Graflex back gently caress that poo poo.
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Apr 19, 2013 13:16
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McMadCow posted:I have an MPP field camera and it has all the movements. It's actually pretty great, I can't think of any situation where I'd want a monorail camera over it for my work. Speed Graphics are press cameras with less range of movement than a field camera.
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Apr 19, 2013 18:15
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My bad I thought the MPP was a flatbed field camera.
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Apr 19, 2013 18:30
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 14:34 |
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VomitOnLino posted:It has already been answered several times over, but let me fill in some details. I believe the Yashica D has a Yashikor which is a triplet design.
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Apr 20, 2013 04:29
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