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Team140 posted:That has go to be the most ridiculous location I've ever seen to store a spare tire. You drive a Caravan so that means it is likely filled with screaming kids and a wife who's upset because you're going to be late getting to Disney World with this flat tire. So now you have to figure out this Rube Goldberg spare tire mechanism with 3 screaming kids and a wife who's emotions flip flop every 30 seconds, meanwhile your flat tire is in the grass on a road shoulder that slopes JUST enough to not give you enough room to retrieve the spare from under it. Bravo, engineers. I have to drive one of these for work, and it is the model with the console. When I saw that in the manual, I thought to myself "gently caress that, this is a government van, whatever DoT tow-truck they send is going to be doing that!" But other than that it's pretty nice for a fleet vehicle.
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May 7, 2013 21:45
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I've had to put a few spares away on those. It's a pain in the rear end in a shop with a lift, I'd hate to do it on the side of the road. Not as bad as Beetles, though, especially convertible models; the wheel just barely fits through the trunk opening, and once you get it in you have to stand it up on the front end of the compartment, slide it back and then lay it flat to hook it into place.
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May 7, 2013 22:25
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My entry for spare tyre chat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2znukoboOro Also, my Pandas have the Fiat spare-in-the-engine-bay arrangement. It's pretty convenient to be honest, wheel, jack and tools all there at a nice picking-up height. Never seen any negative side effects of it for the tyre itself either.
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May 7, 2013 23:51
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The best thing about it is, imo, that it's protected from the elements unlike the ones sitting underneath, and it's easy to get to even with a car full of family, unlike the ones in the trunk where you have to dig trough all your camping poo poo and then some bags spill all over the road and then you can't get it all in again and wonder how you ever got those bags to fit and aaaaaaargh. Sorry for making GBS threads up your thread, General.
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May 8, 2013 00:45
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Seat Safety Switch posted:To be fair, they went back and revised it, apparently... Meaning no disrespect to Her Majesty, she should stick to thrones.   VVV MUKOWT VVV You folks Down Under don't beat it round the bush with your advertising 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:24 on May 9, 2013 |
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May 8, 2013 00:53
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Hey General Failure- Dont waste your money getting a bottle of that woolies coolant to flush it out, spend the money and get a bottle of this poo poo http://www.tectaloy.com/tectaloy_completefillcoolant_hd2.html It will absolutely strip the poo poo out of rust and other crap in your cooling system and clean it right out. Used a bottle of it on my mates Ford Corsair and the amount of evil it cleared out was amazing. Then chuck in some Tectaloy 60 - its cheap but its good.
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May 8, 2013 13:53
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Ferremit posted:Used a bottle of it on my mates Ford Corsair and the amount of evil it cleared out was amazing. I read this as "Corvair" first and I was trying to wrap my head around flushing an air cooled car's radiator.
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May 8, 2013 17:24
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:I read this as "Corvair" first and I was trying to wrap my head around flushing an air cooled car's radiator. Put it in a pressure washer, clean engine with it.
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May 8, 2013 19:16
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flushing an air cooled car's radiator requires some very expensive tools, a large shop air compressor and a blowgun.
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May 8, 2013 19:21
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Ferremit posted:Hey General Failure- Dont waste your money getting a bottle of that woolies coolant to flush it out, spend the money and get a bottle of this poo poo I've got a bottle of flush in the shed. it just seems a bit pointless if all I can put back in is water. It still needs the rad hoses and probably the thermostat replaced. Pointless putting good coolant in until that point. The cheap coolant is hopefully doing its job. Ie stopping further corrosion. Running the engine is doing the rest of what I want. Loosening up the poo poo that has been allowed to sit for a couple of years. I know if I were to go out there now the coolant would be a nice green, but run the engine for a while and it'd be pure brown. So my idea is essentially just to run it for a while to loosen poo poo up. Dump the coolant, do the whole flush dance and chuck some more cheap stuff in until I get the new parts. Once they are in the good coolant goes in. Not 100% sure which at this point. Assuming I don't royally screw up fitting new hoses somehow the system should still be leak free so good coolant could be used. I was considering Tectaloy orange but my previous field test of that was inconclusive. I flushed the cooling system on the Fairlane and fed it orange. Took it for an LPG tune because it was horribly out of whack. Driving it back it blew out one of the radiator end tanks spectacularly while pulling in to the driveway. I must have known something bad would happen because I had ordered a new radiator a few days previously. Those radiator hoses... Rock hard. Squeezing them yields a nice crunch from within. And those weird hose clamps which look like they need a key to turn like a spam tin. No wait. What has those keys? I forget. I changed the spark plugs yesterday. They all looked like they had close to 0 use on them but I really wanted to go a range hotter. Plus #3 had that hideous lump stuck to the outer electrode. I'm starting to question setting the gap to 1mm. The manual specifies 0.6 to 0.7mm. But I did substitute the OE coil for a GT40 which I normally tend to run on mechanical points systems with 1.0 to 1.1mm gap. But the compression is so high for whatever reason. Either it's had head work, has half a ton of carbon or my gauge is screwed. It shouldn't be. More compression means more energy needed for a spark to travel a given distance so I just don't know. Compression results copypasted from earlier in the page for reference. Again, grain of salt because I haven't adjusted the valves yet. OHC with solid lifters...or whatever they are called on an OHC engine. Such a strange vehicle. #1: 160 #2: 168 #3: 175 #4: 172
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May 8, 2013 23:23
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Sardines.
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May 9, 2013 01:50
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Hey, an unfused wire tapped into the main feed being used to run a hot start relay. Just look at that grey tape! All replaced. now let's open our present!   The badge fell off. Boo! I still have it. Going to repaint the inside before readhering it.  Autotechnica wheel and boss arrived!  Maybe now I can fix that broken horn. ...oh no. There's no contact.   Maybe it's jammed in the old wheel or something? ...Nope.  Well, might as well put it on anyway. Better check the nubs for the indicator cancelling thinger are engaging. What the hell?   Looks good though. Plus there's no problem of the outer padding starting to separate from the metal being an accident waiting to happen.  No fixed horn today.
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May 9, 2013 02:35
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I'm surprised it doesn't have a pullchain hanging from the ceiling and an air horn. ... yet.
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May 9, 2013 02:37
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kastein posted:I'm surprised it doesn't have a pullchain hanging from the ceiling and an air horn. Well I do have a couple of old FIAMM horns... Working my way through the horn issue. Messed with making another steering wheel contact and now I'm under the column seeing what was screwed with. A cut wire and a diversion.  Bonus column shot just because.  I added a crimp bullet connector. Not fantastic but it means I can swap back to the patched in wiring if I have to.  While I was at it I plugged the headlight wiper circuit back into its button. On low beam it seems to do something. i hear at least one motor going. The washer pump doesn't seem to work though. The column shroud is properly attached now and the levers are anchored to the column properly too. Horn doesn't work yet but I'm working on it. This afternoon I pulled the gear shifter off to check the oil level and fill. This isn't necessary but I wanted to do the recommended overfill to ~1.8-2.0L. I'm not sure how under it was, but it was pretty far under. After a lot of stuffing around I found a really long bolt with the right head and beat it into a crude allen key to open the transmission sump. Drained it and refilled it. I noticed a welded plate behind the transmission oil pan. OE or a patched hole... who knows. After it all I realised I had no RTV. I used Stag sealant. Seems to be like Permatex red. Should do the job. No photos of the refill. Messy and fiddly work I think that's about it.
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May 11, 2013 08:40
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The rocker cover gasket and the radiator cap arrived! Well... gently caress. 
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May 13, 2013 02:59
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General_Failure posted:The rocker cover gasket and the radiator cap arrived! I suppose that's the risk of buying from an eBay "shop". I doubt that cap would even fit Ford (or) Rover. The more you think about it, the more confusing it gets. steady fucked around with this message at 04:33 on May 13, 2013 |
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May 13, 2013 04:29
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I'm not sure I'm a fan of that steering wheel, but I'm glad progress is getting made on the car. I'm surprised that the steering column u-joint isn't gross and furry. The rad cap and bypass pressure looks like it's off a small car radiator (from like a Honda-engined Rover or a Focus). Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:38 on May 13, 2013 |
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May 13, 2013 04:35
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steady posted:I suppose that's the risk of buying from an eBay "shop". I doubt that cap would even fit Ford (or) Rover. The more you think about it, the more confusing it gets. Yeah. Oh well. At least I got the rocker cover gasket. I hope that's right. I didn't look at it. Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm not sure I'm a fan of that steering wheel, but I'm glad progress is getting made on the car. I'm surprised that the steering column u-joint isn't gross and furry. I'm not sure the wheel fits the look but at least it's not split, missing pieces or covered in pry marks. I think my old Saas wheel would be a better visual match. They are all roughly the same diameter so I don't think anyone would really challenge me too much legally. In all fairness it is a small car motor. A Fiat based 1.6L motor isn't exactly a huge powerhouse but yes I am slightly irritated. I suppose I'll make the multiple part order to the German store. I've been debating it but apparently they send everything in 5kg bags but their prices are really good so people buy just shy of 5kg worth of stuff. I think a thermostat, radiator cap and a radiator hose set would fall within 5kg... I think.
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May 13, 2013 08:24
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I forgot to add something important. I finally managed to run it out of fuel today. Dribbling, coughing and spitting water to the last breath. Today I also got a jerrycan of 98 octane (Don't know what that is in U.S. octanes) while I was putting some in the Fairlane. I gave the Niva a feed. drat that thing has a wide filler neck. A child could stick their arm into it. Anyway I only had a chance to start it for a minute to shift it back a little. I quickly headed around to check the exhaust. No vapour cloud, no water lapping at the tailpipe. No coughing. no spitting. Bone dry. I had even odds on HG or waterlogged fuel. Guess it was fuel. So I guess now I can adjust the valves and proceed to try to nail the idle. I don't imagine that amount of water would have been doing it any favours. I also hate to think what the percentage would have been.
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May 13, 2013 09:04
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Good thing it was just the fuel and that you're finally rid of it. 98 RON is 93/94 RON+MON/2.
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May 13, 2013 10:10
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If it was running on fuel with that much water in it somehow I doubt the car is worried about octane. It'd probably be pretty happy with some premix right about now, even.
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May 13, 2013 14:38
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I'm kind of impressed it was running at all on fuel like that. It was seriously enough to leave a black mark on the ground under the tailpipe from the water dripping out and a spread spray on the dirt from the projected drops. Plus even fully warmed up it still had a vapour cloud that was only interrupted when the engine stumbled and coughed out a splash. Premium may or may not be overkill. The compression readings were pretty high. My guess is carbon buildup. Plus I'm not really sure what octane it was built to run with. Finally I think the standard octane fuel is ethanol doped now. I know 100km south in town the air smells like cheap vodka and despair. All being said if I set the spark gap to the specified 0.6-0.7mm it'd probably run on nearly anything that'd burn if the plugs didn't foul. It's set to 1.0mm currently. I can still hear the transmission in neutral now I've changed the oil but it's about on par with the transmission in the VW now so it's not a major concern. I did momentarily get worried when the sound changed though. On investigation it was just the lower noise level let me hear an exhaust leak underneath. When I get a chance I'll pull the front cherry bomb looking muffler off and weld up the hole. It's all clamped together. I've never been that lucky before. If the HG was shot it would have been a bit of a nuisance, but I think I said earlier that the kit costs less than a tank of fuel so no biggie. But no matter how you look at it HG jobs are a pain. My brother in law wants ho have a better look at the Niva because he's curious. Although he's probably owned more cars than Jay Leno I don't think he's seen a Niva before.
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May 13, 2013 22:15
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What I did to my ride today. I took my son for a drive around the yard today for the most part in low range with the centre diff locked like a complete tard. I saw someone in a hilux or something driving past watching me.  It may or may not have been stuck with the diff locked. This was until I remembered what I read on a forum. The locker lever is prone to get jammed if it isn't used often. The way to solve it especially if it's stuck on it just to slam it in first and reverse. So I put it in first and gave the drivetrain an aggressive bump with the clutch. Worked a charm. So, trip report with new fuel. It runs so much better. Not a drop of moisture in the exhaust still. It's also less grumpy about low rev launches. The thermostat appears to be working too. I can only guess that the waterlogged fuel was artificially cooling the engine like ghetto water injection. I had to redo the idle though because I couldn't keep it running without a decent amount of choke. Oddly it needed the air bypass opened up a fair bit. The mixture screw now seems to behave is a more tangible manner now too. I'm getting ready to sort out an order to a store in Germany that sells Lada parts. The parts are dirt cheap but the postage is pretty steep. About $50 for a 5kg bag so I'm going to make every gram count. Still, that's better than the $100+ I'd be up for if I tried ordering a washer or a hose clamp from rockauto. Yes I still need to make that parts order for the Fairlane. When I adjust the valve clearances the idle will probably be a little more controllable. In its current state it's still a bit stumbly at idle and kind of sounds like someone's bashing marbles together. Pretty sure the valves haven't been adjusted this millennia, or if they have they weren't done right. The caked on grease though on an engine I haven't seen any oil leakage yet says that it's been a looong time.
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May 14, 2013 01:24
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So, didn't get much else done but I did re-stick the passenger quarter window latch again. No I didn't use the correct adhesive. The weather has been drizzly and miserable the last couple of days and the quarter window not closing properly has been bugging me. I'm happy with this solution as my previous epoxy attempts I wasn't even convinced I had the latch in the right place. It would have been disastrous if I got it wrong with the right adhesive. This time around I measured the position of the driver's latch that I adhered, as it is still attached. Apparently my passenger one was quite a bit different. Scraped, cleaned etc. and glued it. It is still on. This time I used Bostik superglue. I was blown away. As soon as I put the latch to the glass it stuck solid. I held it pushed in place a couple of minutes just to be sure. Tried it a little while ago and it latches fine. At least this means I can mark out where the latches are as the position seems to work, so when they drop off some time in the future they can be re-adhered in the right place. No photos because it looks like it did last time really. Still just a latch on the glass. I really do have to figure out how the rear hatch rubber is leaking. It lets in heaps of water.
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May 14, 2013 05:49
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General_Failure posted:The rocker cover gasket and the radiator cap arrived! The new one looks exactly what my Altima had. My Honda's cap was similar too...
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May 14, 2013 07:14
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some texas redneck posted:The new one looks exactly what my Altima had. My Honda's cap was similar too... That doesn't surprise me. It's what I'd consider a normal sized cap though. The Magna had one of those weird little ones on it. I would have kept that radiator after it died except a light bump removed the entire fitting the cap attached to. Guess that was a breakdown waiting to happen. Still that's better than Aussie Ford radiators. Breathe too hard around the end tanks or fittings and the whole thing will fall to pieces. Continuing the pointless conversation with the eBay seller too. I don't expect anything from it nor do I really care. It's just a principle thing. What did I say it cost? $10 or $11. You can't buy any car part for that, except maybe a spark plug with change left over. I really should make the order from the German store but I'm holding off for now. What's a few more days. More medical expenses looming this week to add to the pile. Fun stuff. It rained last night. Proper rain. yard's not underwater so it didn't flood. That means the back of the Niva probably had a nice drink. I hope I remembered to lie the towel over that metal box in the back to stop it running down. I can't fix the rear seal until I figure out how the hell it's actually leaking first.
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May 14, 2013 22:14
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Bonus content. A photo to confirm / deny the originality of that welded section. The person I asked said it's not original. It's a Niva so I thought I'd better ask. Have to wonder what happened. e: looks like the reverse light wire has escaped again. I think that blade connector is done for. 
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May 14, 2013 23:14
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The reversing lights were still plugged in. Haven't really done anything but I do have some info on that welded plate. It's not stock, which I kind of guessed. Most likely cause is that 5th gear chewed its way through the housing. Stupid 5th. Mine's an 87. the changeover year from 4 to 5 speed. I was kind of hoping for a 4 speed. 5th gear was a tacked on addition which still exists to date. It's weak and prone to weird failure modes. Depending on the country, bulletins were released telling people not to use 5th below a certain speed. I believe it was 90km/h in Australia. I think it was South Africa where they said 120km/h. Ie don't use it. Besides that the best way to make sure 5th is happy is to overfill the transmission with 1.8-2.0L of oil. I've already done this. Closer to 1.8 in my case because I wasn't sure I'd managed to drain everything. Beyond that I think there's a big nut at the back that holds the transmission's poo poo together which can work loose and cause havoc under some circumstances. Such a shame. The transmission is the Achilles heel of the vehicle. If it wasn't for our stupid vehicle modification legislation and the costs associated I'd probably be working my way through wreckers with a tape measure. It's a nice transmission, just a bit weak.
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May 15, 2013 22:53
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Lada is certainly not the only one who stuck additional gear to a stock 4-speed gearbox. I used to have a Mazda 626 (1979) with a similar setup. The 5th gear housing was at least 1/3 as big as the main housing containing the rest. Despite all that, it still whined like a pack of starving dogs. At least it didn't want to jump into neutral like some others...
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May 16, 2013 07:16
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Ouch, those part prices, most i ever paid for a part for my Lada was 20euros for a new headlight assembly, which i had to source through hell. Even the junkyards didnt have anything to scavenge from. Im glad i have a garage full of spare parts, can you say five 5spd lada gear boxes? Hey-o. And yes, the engine will burn anything. And those transmissions, mine whines in 5th aswell but they are somewhat sturdy, i mean, once at a race, the Lada managed to snap the rear axle into three parts upon start, gearbox was fine Patrocclesiastes fucked around with this message at 08:18 on May 16, 2013 |
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May 16, 2013 08:15
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To be fair, I destroyed a 5 speed toyota gearbox by doing a 5th gear roll on. Everyone makes a poo poo trans once in a while
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May 16, 2013 11:59
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Right. I need a spare wheel and a bracket. http://www.fishingshirts.com/wheel-covers/mkf0322.html What's wrong with the parts prices? They are tiny compared to prices I pay for other cars. punakone, how the hell did an axle snap into three parts? How much power was it putting down? steady posted:Lada is certainly not the only one who stuck additional gear to a stock 4-speed gearbox. I used to have a Mazda 626 (1979) with a similar setup. The 5th gear housing was at least 1/3 as big as the main housing containing the rest. Despite all that, it still whined like a pack of starving dogs. At least it didn't want to jump into neutral like some others... Tacked on gears can be fun. Didn't BMW or something do that with a slushbox that was from something like a Kingswood? I forget sorry. Today was an awful, long, expensive medical-centric day but I managed to stop by the wrecker and grab another 10" thermo fan. Funny thing was I walked in and said I needed a 10" thermo fan. I was asked what sort of thing it was from. I just picked up the one that was sitting on a stack of wheels next to the counter and told them like this. I was asked if I'd called about it and just said "Nah." Was told $30 for that one because no-one put the person's name on it and it was all good. Not a bad price for one in these parts. It's the same as the other one I have which is from a Pajero. Essentially the same as a Davies Craig one. Works for me. Fraction of the price of a new Davies Craig one. If I can scavenge up a relay I can start work on fitting the thermo fans.
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May 16, 2013 12:05
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I tested the thermo fan. Works fine. Flipped the blades so it's a blow fan now. Does anyone have any tips on mounting the things? I did it on the VW but that's a bit different. Through the radiator isn't an option for me either. Besides not wanting to damage / disturb it, it appears to have a really tight layout for fins, cores and what looks to be vertical fins running through between cores. I prefer brackets anyway. My little boy took a chunk out of the paint on one of the doors in one of his Hulk moods. I still have to fix and replace the side badge too. Urgh. kids.
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May 17, 2013 02:00
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steady posted:Lada is certainly not the only one who stuck additional gear to a stock 4-speed gearbox. I used to have a Mazda 626 (1979) with a similar setup. The 5th gear housing was at least 1/3 as big as the main housing containing the rest. Despite all that, it still whined like a pack of starving dogs. At least it didn't want to jump into neutral like some others... Jeep did that too, it's called an AX4 (designed and built by a cooperating team from Aisin and Borg/Warner, very similar units sharing parts also sold to Toyota as the G/W series iirc) as a 4 speed and an AX5 as a 5 speed. The only differences are the housings (minor machining differences - there's an "upshift lamp switch" port on the 4 speed that apparently is used to disable the upshift lamp if you're already in 4th and the engine's screaming  which isn't machined out or installed on the 5 speed) the 5th gear fork and the fifth main/counter gears. I tore down a 4 speed one last night for spare parts and discovered that everything is the same, in fact they put on a welded flywheel sort of device on the countershaft where the 5th gear would normally be to act as an oil slinger and/or make it shift nicer.
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May 17, 2013 02:17
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kastein posted:Jeep did that too, it's called an AX4 (designed and built by a cooperating team from Aisin and Borg/Warner, very similar units sharing parts also sold to Toyota as the G/W series iirc) as a 4 speed and an AX5 as a 5 speed. The only differences are the housings (minor machining differences - there's an "upshift lamp switch" port on the 4 speed that apparently is used to disable the upshift lamp if you're already in 4th and the engine's screaming So that's what happens when higher ups give an engineer until tomorrow to add an extra speed. More photo spam. It looks somehow kind of dead.  For people grappling with dimensions, let's make it no easier and put the grille here.  Mmmm. That's been in there for a few weeks. That's coolant.  A little hard to see because of when I took the photo but a patch of grass is stained red, and so is some of the driveway. There's also red spots on the tarp I was using where coolant splashed.  The radiator with it's crank hole in the bottom tank.  The thermo fans. I still need to screw them in. A more or less perfect fit. It can't be seen in the photo but there's a lip on the left next to the radiator, so there isn't any horizontal or vertical gap. Thse are 10" fans. One is from a Pajero. The other is identical model so perhaps it is too. 
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May 18, 2013 23:21
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General_Failure posted:So that's what happens when higher ups give an engineer until tomorrow to add an extra speed. It's actually not the worst idea (though I think it went the other way - they wanted to offer a 4 speed for the base model/lower price by not having to spend a few hundred bucks on the gears and bearings for the 5th gear, etc) - most 4 speeds I've seen aren't overdrive boxes anyways, and the 4th gear in almost every 5 speed I've driven has been 1:1, so basically you just make the countershaft/cluster gear and the rear output shaft/mainshaft long enough that you could stick a 5th gear and the forks/synchros on if you wanted to and then ship it that way. Glad to hear it runs better with gas instead of gas/water in the tank, and it looks like you're slowly catching up on the myriad small issues and jerry rigged repairs by the previous owner.
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May 19, 2013 01:22
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The fans are in. A little short on mounting hardware. Currently it's just battery > fuse > thermo switch > fans.  I ran the wires for the fans separately over to the firewall in the engine bay where I'm planning on putting a couple of relay connectors and a small fusebox. The fan wires are currently using a 2>1 blade adapter and are just connected directly to the switch. I'm not concerned about the switch failing. Yes it means it's an always on configuration so if it's hot enough even with the ignition off the fans will still spin. It's just temporary though until I can get the extra parts. Both fans had 2 blade connectors. I NASA spliced them to my wires, soldered and heatshrink tube'd them. The switch will be set according to the temperature gauge which seems pretty accurate. I'm going to crank it up and when the temperature on the gauge gets to where I want I'll dial it back until the fans come on. I look forward to pulling the probably functionally useless mechanical fan off. kastein posted:It's actually not the worst idea (though I think it went the other way - they wanted to offer a 4 speed for the base model/lower price by not having to spend a few hundred bucks on the gears and bearings for the 5th gear, etc) - most 4 speeds I've seen aren't overdrive boxes anyways, and the 4th gear in almost every 5 speed I've driven has been 1:1, so basically you just make the countershaft/cluster gear and the rear output shaft/mainshaft long enough that you could stick a 5th gear and the forks/synchros on if you wanted to and then ship it that way. Yeah I'm getting there slowly. Doing my own bodges too admittedly but I don't call them repairs. A lot of things are placeholders until I can achieve a proper solution. Case in point the thermo fans. The thermo switch and the fans are installed, and the wires exist to install a relay but they are currently in a temporary operational configuration. I forgot to say. This morning I found the quarter window latch from the passenger side sitting on the seat over near the tunnel. it's like it catapulted off! So weird. That was on really hard and I doubt UV got to it after a few days. e: that black stuff in the second photo is some of that braided wiring insulation stuff that I laboriously stuffed over the bulb to put on the capillary tube to protect it a little.
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May 19, 2013 05:16
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I removed the fan and fitted shorter bolts. Also crammed an M10 bolt into the radiator drain. Put the tinware and bash plate back on and drove it around the yard for a while with my son. First thing I noticed is that even in 1L it felt more responsive. The amount of time it took for the temperature to rise wasn't much different to what it did with just the mechanical fan. Got it up to 90ish according to the gauge and that stupid old cap started dripping. Shortly after the fans kicked in. Didn't take them all that long to knock about 10*C off the temperature. That's a good result. The coolant after that test still looked green too which is excellent. Previously it's always been brown. I guess the crud is down to sane levels. I got all Red Green on it too and attacked a couple of things with black duct tape. Or cloth tape. Whatever you want to call it. One thing was the tear in the driver seat. I squashed the sides together as well as I could and gave it a good taping. While I was at it I taped where there's a couple of splits in the plastic tunnel cover near the clutch pedal. My left shoe keeps getting hung up on it. much better now. While I was doing that I confirmed it has a wrecked clutch MC. I could see where fluid had been seeping in. Damnit. Well, no real surprise there.
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May 23, 2013 02:48
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Wait a sec, you have Red Green down in oz land?
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May 23, 2013 04:27
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 05:53 |
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iv46vi posted:Wait a sec, you have Red Green down in oz land? Via the 'web. As far as I know that's the only presence. The duct tape on the seat is holding which is good. I had to do a base piece where I held the vinyl in place and a couple of pieces over each side it to hold it. Not my favourite way of repairing but it'll stop any further damage. It'll be getting seat covers eventually anyway. I re-stuck the passenger quarter window latch again. It was slightly concave so I flattened it out. Maybe this will be the time.
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May 23, 2013 05:42
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