|
General_Failure posted:Via the 'web. As far as I know that's the only presence.
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 06:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 23:25 |
|
|
I guess life in the colonies is similar enough that the jokes translate. Proper duct tape is silver stuff for sealing heating ducts which are probably not too common in Australia.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 06:43
|
|
|
Air conditioning certainly is though.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 07:00
|
|
|
If its central, certainly. But they probably have those wall mounted units in majority of the houses.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 11:48
|
|
|
iv46vi posted:If its central, certainly. But they probably have those wall mounted units in majority of the houses. Like anywhere it depends on where you live. We have a big ducted evaporative cooler on the roof, and an unused bigass aircon in the front window in the loungeroom with what seems to be its own 15A circuit (remember 240v), and behind me is a through-wall reverse cycle that someone put through above the doorframe, but it's only capable of hinting at warmth or cold while pissing itself. iv46vi posted:I guess life in the colonies is similar enough that the jokes translate. Proper duct tape is silver stuff for sealing heating ducts which are probably not too common in Australia. Yeah I know, i know. And it's true I don't see the silver stuff around. Probably bought from specialist supply shops. I was just referring to the tape with a cloth matrix embedded in it. Whatever you call it. There's so many names. It also wasn't my preferred choice of patching the seat but if it works, it'll do for now. The bits I put near the clutch pedal work great by the way. My foot wasn't getting caught any more.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 12:57
|
|
|
You're thinking of gaffer tape. The foil tape is used by HVAC, but only where it's going to get really hot, or exposed to UV which will break down lovely regular duct tape. For regular a/c ducts we use just regular 'duct tape' which is just like electrical tape, but wider, shittier and cheaper (well, you've seen red green so you know the type of tape I'm talking about). That stuff only sticks to itself, so just wrap it around flexiducts a few times and job done. No good for repairs, but used in all new installs. Nearly all ducting here except commercial ducting, is just flexiduct and a few miles of the lovely type of duct tape. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 14:05 on May 23, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 14:03
|
|
|
If it's not moving and it's supposed to, use wd40. If it's moving and it's not supposed to, use duct tape. If you have trouble making it move, use a bigger hammer. The more cars I fix the more it moves from joke to wisdom territory.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 15:52
|
|
|
iv46vi posted:If it's not moving and it's supposed to, use wd40. WD-40 is a terrible penetrating lubricant, as it's not designed to be. Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid wrench. Any of those will work many times better than a wader displacer with light lubricating properties.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 16:03
|
|
|
It's just some random well known quote Motronic! Whoever wrote it just happened to use the brand name wd-40 instead of your examples. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:53 on May 23, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 16:49
|
|
|
Fo3 posted:You're thinking of gaffer tape. I don't know where you live, but every HVAC duct I've seen (and I've seen lots, used to install networks) is assembled with the foil-backed tape. The other stuff falls off after a few days of summer heat.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 17:23
|
|
|
"duct tape" is basically lame gaffer tape, and like EightBit, I've never seen it stay on very well. Gorilla Tape is what duct tape should have been. Good god I love that poo poo. (I carry a roll of foil tape behind the back seat of my truck for offroad "speed tape" type repairs, though. I love it because it's fairly strong and yet doesn't really leave any residue behind when you peel it off.)
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 17:43
|
|
|
I'm in Australia and as I mentioned, duct tape sticks badly to everything else besides itself, and every every every a/c here uses that lame poo poo on flexi ductwork, just wrap it around 3 -4 times. And I do have the foil tape, like I said, I use it for anything that's going to get hot, spot repairs, or anything exposed to UV or the sun. Most other fuckers in the trade don't, most other fuckers use pair coil pre lagged piping which degrades in the UV too - point is no one seems to give a poo poo, terrible industry here. Australia - land of the most regulations to prevent DIY, home of the dodgiest practices by tradesmen that should know better. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:57 on May 23, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 23, 2013 17:55
|
|
|
Fo3 posted:Australia - land of the most regulations to prevent DIY, home of the dodgiest practices by tradesmen that should know better. Quoted for absolute truth. So, another post from me. not happy at all. yesterdays attempt at sticking the quarter window latch on again didn't go well. I headed out this morning and saw it was gone again. So I proceeded to try to align it so it looks like the drivers door one I put on rather than going off measurements. I tried cleaning the glue off the latch. Wasn't going so well so I thought I'll get back to it and do the glass instead. So I set about trying to clean the glue off. The stuff around the edges was easy enough but the big central lightly scintillated patch just wouldn't budge no matter what I did. Then I felt it. It was concave. Oh poo poo. The glue held and it tore a nice section of glass out. Well that's just lovely. No idea what I'll do now. Probably try to get the glass off the metal, reposition and use araldite again. Attach a safety line so if it pops off with the window open it won't disappear, and either buy a new window at a later date or get one ground. It's flat glass at least. I think glass people can make flat laminate windows to order cant they? I don't remember. On the bright side I noticed that that the windshield had been replaced at some point with an Australian made one with the UV tint in it. Bloody good news. I'm convinced the Fairlane doesn't have that because of how everyone gats horribly burned in about 3.5 seconds in summer.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2013 00:37
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:Like anywhere it depends on where you live. We have a big ducted evaporative cooler on the roof, and an unused bigass aircon in the front window in the loungeroom with what seems to be its own 15A circuit (remember 240v), and behind me is a through-wall reverse cycle that someone put through above the doorframe, but it's only capable of hinting at warmth or cold while pissing itself. I grew up with evaporative (swamp) coolers, and oh man do I miss them. Dirt cheap to run 24/7, and keeps the house really comfortable, but they don't work very well with the humidity we have in this part of the country. And don't work for poo poo when it's raining, even in an arid climate. Yeah, I know DFW isn't "humid", but it's still too humid for an evap cooler to work very well. I don't think I've ever seen one in this area, actually, whereas in my home town (El Paso TX) everybody has them. Even the nicer houses will have a mix of both swamp and refrigerated, the idea being you run the swamp coolers in the milder months. I used to love central a/c, but holy poo poo it's expensive to keep an entire house cool - especially when at any one time, only 2 rooms are occupied.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2013 08:13
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:Then I felt it. It was concave. Oh poo poo. The glue held and it tore a nice section of glass out. Well that's just lovely. No idea what I'll do now. Probably try to get the glass off the metal, reposition and use araldite again. Attach a safety line so if it pops off with the window open it won't disappear, and either buy a new window at a later date or get one ground. It's flat glass at least. I think glass people can make flat laminate windows to order cant they? I don't remember. that glue is obviously good stuff. I'd be tempted to rough the messed up bit of glass up a bit more with a small dremel grinding bit, clean it all off the metal latch and then try glueing it again as a last attempt - and if it takes even more glass off then call it a day! On the landy some of the window catches are attached with a bolt that goes through a hole in the glass (with some rubber gromits). I don't know if you can drill glass or not to do it this way?
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2013 12:38
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:Cooler and A/C chat. Evaporative coolers do work in the rain to a degree. They just have to be switched to vent. The moisture in the atmosphere does the rest. I can't say I've ever even seen a house with ducted A/C. Or heating for that matter, I suppose it's a reflection on relative energy prices over the years. Tomarse posted:that glue is obviously good stuff. I'd be tempted to rough the messed up bit of glass up a bit more with a small dremel grinding bit, clean it all off the metal latch and then try glueing it again as a last attempt - and if it takes even more glass off then call it a day! It is, although it's only superglue. but not all superglues are made equal. When I saw the Bostik one although it was as cheap as the dodgy supermarket branded ones I grabbed it. They make good poo poo. And I'm not just saying that because I used to live near the factory. I really doubt it can be ground flat in any way. The divot it tore out was about the size of a thumbnail. If I could do a through hole that'd be great but the latch design is incompatible. I did toy with the idea of welding a tab to the quarter window frame or even adhering one to the glass to increase the surface area and attach the latch to it ... somehow. I know Loctite 350 could stick it but I could get a new quarter window delivered by a Russian mail order bride for the same price. Not that i would. And maybe that's a bit of an exaggeration but it's stupidly expensive stuff. I was told about another loctite... 295 or something. It's a superglue variant. $~25 a tube or whatever it's cheaper, but both are useless because the glass is no longer flat. I had two more attempts with the Araldite yesterday. The first was a failure because I don't think I mixed it right and I couldn't hold it in place long enough so air got under. Second attempt went better. I clamped it in place shortly after gluing. A few air bubbles got in because it's really a two person job. Because Araldite is just an epoxy it fills the crater well. My quick test yesterday was a success. It didn't rip free. But I thought I'd leave it until today for a long term test. What else... I fixed the drivers interior light door switch. Contact cleaner and a bit of wiggling. Not much ever goes wrong with them. Saw yet another bit of broken metal that realistically needs welding. It's the bracket for the bar thing that stops the door opening too far. The tailgate also has a crack that should be addressed. Nothing too major. Every car I've had except the Fairlane has cracks. Usually much worse.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2013 22:53
|
|
|
gently caress the stupid quarter window latch for now. It's driving me up the wall. I reset the spark plug gap to about 0.7mm. My feelers are U.S. mfg. so they only have thicknesses in crazyspeak. It seems to idle a little better now. #3 plug is still covered in what seems to be oil. That'll just get ignored for now I think. It has good compression and runs fine. I'm not going to let a leaky stem seal or something ruin my day. It's on the battery charger currently because the battery was getting low. it was getting hard to crank. the battery isn't amazing but it's good enough for now. I put some screws in the remaining screw holes in the grille. one of them is surely crossthreaded. I think the thread is utterly screwed. hurr. This, the gluing in of the grille bits I found, and today's blocking off the still missing grille fin with a couple of zipties is all in aid of my son keeping his fingers. There was a good grille on gumtree for $35 but I hate buying stuff via that. There doesn't seem to be anything left of the front brake pads. They were on my list anyway. Just not sure which ones to get. Why I always end up with changeover year models I don't know.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2013 01:34
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:Evaporative coolers do work in the rain to a degree. They just have to be switched to vent. The moisture in the atmosphere does the rest. Most new houses have ducted AC now days- Mine that im Building will. When it comes down to it, it costs about $12K to install a ducted AC system, but if you put a split system into your average 4 bedroom home, your looking at 4 small ones for the bedrooms at around $2500 each installed, then a big one for the living area at close to $4K, its cheaper to do ducted. The newer systems are a lot smarter too- An Actron Air (made in AU) uses a constantly variable fan system so instead of just having low/high, its infinately adjustable like the compressor is, so you can just close the whole thing off to a couple of rooms and it scales to suit so it doesnt waste power. Running a single 12KW compressor is more efficient than running 5x 3KW compressors too.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2013 02:56
|
|
|
Your prices for wall splits are way off. Bedroom units about $1k ea to buy, $550-660 ea to install. Living area splits about $1500-1800 to buy, $770 to install. You're right though that if you want more than 4 rooms air conditioned, you may as well get ducted. The only downside to ducted over split a/c is redundancy, ie if the one condensing unit breaks down, you're hosed, also higher power usage compared to splits if you only use the splits in the rooms you are currently using, ie using just a living room a/c during the day and not the bedrooms, and then only using the bedrooms at night when using multiple splits will be cheaper to run than a ducted no matter what - compared to running a central fan coil unit blowing ducted air even with zone controls. You're also right that ducted a/c is very common in Australia. The majority of new houses in Perth have them, big massive ducted a/c, though they have no eaves or window shading, often also have black tiles on the roof and minimal insulation... It's the Perth way of building houses. So people don't give a poo poo about energy costs G_F, they love refrig ducted a/c in Australia and are willing to pay $1k a quarter to run them in their terrible mcmansions that are designed so bad that on a hot day they are hotter inside than ambient temp. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:41 on May 25, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 25, 2013 15:30
|
|
|
I'm having a hard time understanding planning to bodge up your A/C from the start  . New homes in America have been built 100% ducted for at least 60 years because it just works better. WTF Australia?
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2013 18:55
|
|
|
EightBit posted:I'm having a hard time understanding planning to bodge up your A/C from the start Because A/C in a lot of houses is a relatively recent thing here. Up until the late '90s or even the early '00s I hadn't really encountered A/C at all in private houses. Ducted heating, forget it. It was usually a gas or wood heater in the loungeroom everyone would huddle around. But then I come from old areas where most of the houses were built in the 1800s. Our current house is relatively new. 1930s IIRC. I was told the year by someone but I forget. It's an old water commission house built to house the workers that brought irrigation to this area to make it arable land. In its life it's had at least two plumbing and electric retrofits. The metal sheaths for the original wiring are all in a heap in the roof. I'm guessing that was back when they brought lighting to the town. The old lighting plant is still at the museum I believe. I'm trying to remember how much the ducted evap cooling cost. It was somewhere between 4 and 6k. The four original rooms are ducted and the two, or three depending on how you look at it that were made ages ago by enclosing part of the verandah just rely on flowthrough. Otherwise it would have driven the ducting cost through the roof because external ducting etc. would have needed to be installed. We got gas installed maybe 2 years ago now. We're lucky our house had a gas line running by. I know someone else on the street that can't get it. It cost us over 1k too for the gaslines, but it paid for itself in maybe two electricity bills. Now I came here for a reason sort of. It was actually to check the time but that's because I've started on the rocker adjustment. I've got the air cleaner off, hoses disconnected and the rocker cover unbolted and off. It's been done before. i can see signs of a wire brush on the inside of the cover, but it was a long time ago. Hopefully I can get it done today or tomorrow. The cover needs repainting but with the cost of spray paint it may be cheaper to go get it powder coated. The paint I'd be looking at over $50 no matter how I look at it,
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2013 01:46
|
|
|
For posterity's sake. I hosed up a timing chain adjust. it's all good now. http://youtu.be/klDuSJ6Di8A Valves have been adjusted. It seems a little happier now. I did something really questionable with the rocker cover. Cleaned off all the accumulated oil and grease... and sprayed it with inox. Should stop it from rusting for a while. What else... some joker has stripped one of the studs on the top of the carburettor. That was when I discovered every variety of loctite I own has gone walkabout. Given how expensive that poo poo is I was livid. The replacement rocker cover gasket fit like poo poo. I'm expecting it to pour oil down the back of the block. Also I think I may have overtorqued and bent the rocker cover. hard to say. That gasket is just that bad. I have photos but not the camera. Maybe tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2013 10:43
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:For posterity's sake. I hosed up a timing chain adjust. it's all good now. It's hard to say from pictures, but I thought cover was aluminum, so no need for rust protection. Gasket...best to buy a sheet and cut out your own. It's often even better quality than OEM stuff. Use cork one for rocker cover (and don't over-tighten it).
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2013 12:21
|
|
|
steady posted:It's hard to say from pictures, but I thought cover was aluminum, so no need for rust protection. Yeah the one I got was that awful cork composite stuff unfortunately. I've never had any luck whatsoever with it. It always seems to distort and move under operation, and for some unfathomable reason every gasket I've ever gotten made out of it is slightly too large. I wouldn't have a clue where to get a sheet of cork for a gasket from. I still have the original gasket too it's just it was seeping in places. Don't over tighten? I'll take that under advisement. I was lovely at myself for doing it. I was careful too. Assuming it wasn't already distorted. I used the ratchet but was holding it at the actual ratchet instead of the arm to tighten the nuts. If I knew where my 1/4" screwdriver thing was i would have used that. I had to use a lot more force to undo them beforehand too. The cover is definitely steel / iron. I just sprayed it down with penetrating oil because even more paint came off when I was degreasing it this time round and the last lot that came off was starting to rust. My logic was it'll stop any more rusting until I can do something about it. inox is also good at neutralizing rust so it should be good for a while. The engine runs happier now I think and seems to be less finicky especially with the choke. It was blowing a steady stream of smoke or something but it could have been anything. Condensation, mixture issues, or burnoff on #3. #3 is a weird one. When I pulled the plug to do the last compression test the plug actually looked marginally healthier than last time. Perhaps the too-long duration was screwing it up somehow.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2013 12:33
|
|
|
Since its a Fiat SOHC, is it really that hard to get parts? Cork gaskets are meant to be treated with gasket shellac and glued down, something that cost me a $75 gasket on my NSU Prinz before an old-timer at Napa clued me in on how to do it properly.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2013 18:54
|
|
|
DJ Commie posted:Since its a Fiat SOHC, is it really that hard to get parts? Cork gaskets are meant to be treated with gasket shellac and glued down, something that cost me a $75 gasket on my NSU Prinz before an old-timer at Napa clued me in on how to do it properly. That's a new one to me. I suppose out of habit I do it VW style. smear the gasket with oil and fit it. This stupid gasket. At first I considered putting it in the rocker cover and adhering it somehow but there were a couple of things that dissuaded me. Because it's that composite cork poo poo it was too large as they always are so it couldn't be stuffed entirely into the lip. The other reason is related. With a gasket playing silly buggers like that I wouldn't have stood a hope in hell of getting all the M6 holes lined up. As near as I can tell it's a Fiat derivative. The crank, pistons, conrods etc. from a Fiat may not fit but all the other bits do. I believe a Fiat carburettor bolts on. I'm fine with mine though, except that drat linkage. I'm hoping someone will have a replacement one from a dead carb they haven't binned yet. It's an awful lot like a Weber 2bbl but with a vacuum secondary and a couple of other specialized bits and pieces. besides the rocker cover gasket and the carburettor linkage I don't think I actually need any engine parts anyway. If I get a chance I'll do a followup video of it not sounding like poo poo. There's an exhaust leak under the cabin so it'll still sound a little rough but I'm working on that. Soaking the exhaust clamps with penetrating oil. I could just cut them but I'm trying this first. e: I won't lie. the OHC arrangement confused the poo poo out of me briefly. It's a cantilever setup. The adjusters that can be seen in the photo are the pivot point for the rocker. In the middle in the shroud the cam runs over the top. And finally on the other end is the valves. The gap is set by putting a feeler between the cam lobe and the rocker. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 22:07 on May 26, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2013 22:03
|
|
|
Today I washed and waxed the roof because I made a lovely job of it last time. the oxidation is starting to show through elsewhere and I'm out of wax. Damnit. The right hand window winder is now properly attached again. there was a wire clip floating around in the toolbox that I guessed belonged to it. With some bending it clipped on to the shaft again. My son helped me armor-all the vinyl again. I think I could dip it in a vat for a year and it'd still be thirsty. I degreased around the rocker cover again where I'm a little suspicious. If I see no seepage then it was just from when I had the cover off. If I do then I bent it. I should be able to fix it easy enough with the excavator bucket tooth I use as an anvil. Nice straight solid edge. Drove it around the yard today with my son. It's definitely running better than ever. The low fuel light doesn't seem to work. Although I'm fairly completist I can live with that. It annoys the poo poo out of me on the Fairlane. Considering I check the gauges every few seconds low fuel isn't going to sneak up on me. I know the low oil pressure light on the gauge works and I have no idea if the overheat light works and never want to find out. My attempt at tweaking my homebrew horn contact failed. When I get a chance I'll pull the wheel off again and short the contact to the column to make sure there isn't another break I missed.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2013 05:10
|
|
|
with my old Massey Ferguson FE35 tractor I gave up on cork gaskets and simply cast a 10mm thick bead of Ultra Blue RTV silicone around the rocker cover and let it cure for a couple of days, then glued it on with a thin smear of fresh RTV on the head. Never leaked a drop after that!
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2013 11:29
|
|
|
Both my saabs and my landy have cork rocker gaskets. The first couple of times I took the rocker covers off I could never get them to seal but after a while you get the hang of it. The key is to first ensure your rocker cover is not deformed (i.e. by someone tightening it down too much) and fix this first. Then get a new gasket and NEVER overtighten it. It should just grip it. Once it has been overtightened once it generally deforms the cork too much and it wont seal after this. New landrover gaskets come with self adhesive bases so you can glue half of it down. The saab ones dont and I tend to stick the saab ones in place lightly with a bit of sealant to make it easier.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2013 12:16
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:That's a new one to me. I suppose out of habit I do it VW style. smear the gasket with oil and fit it. This stupid gasket. At first I considered putting it in the rocker cover and adhering it somehow but there were a couple of things that dissuaded me. Because it's that composite cork poo poo it was too large as they always are so it couldn't be stuffed entirely into the lip. The other reason is related. With a gasket playing silly buggers like that I wouldn't have stood a hope in hell of getting all the M6 holes lined up. I thought it was Fiat SOHC based but doesn't really look like it, the Fiat engine has a timing belt and a different looking head design.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2013 21:54
|
|
|
DJ Commie posted:I thought it was Fiat SOHC based but doesn't really look like it, the Fiat engine has a timing belt and a different looking head design. http://jalopnik.com/5348746/engine-of-the-day-fiat-sohc Distributor, fuel pump and oil filter locations are the same. I can see the relief for the block drain plug. the PCV system is in the same place but a little different. Cooling system is different but that's a packaging thing. Pretty sure it's why the Niva has a weird inline thermostat. head design appears a little different but definitely a similar derivation. The top of the Niva head has been flared to swallow the head bolts exposed on the Fiat engine. The Niva engine also has the timing chain contained within the head casting and a timing chain cover. You say the Fiat engine is timing belt based? I see the difference and reasons there. I know it's possible to transplant a Fiat DOHC engine into a Niva with effort, or a Pugeot 1.9L diesel because that was a factory option. I'd love the diesel but holy poo poo it'd be slow. I think they kept the same gearing.http://jalopnik.com/5348746/engine-of-the-day-fiat-sohc I'm not really very experienced with working on OHC engines but that cantilever solid rocker design really did stop me dead in my tracks for a few minutes as I figured out what was going on.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2013 22:37
|
|
|
I looked at the old gasket. Te distortion in the rocker cover was already there. Today the local supermarket had bottles of jizz reduced to about $11 each. Or armor all Gel. Whatever you want to call it. I coated the poo poo out of everything except the seats, steering wheel stc. although I fail to see the issue with seats. The interior is made out of some pretty weird stuff so some responds and some doesn't. The rubber on the bumpers and the plastic on the grille came up pretty nice too.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 01:05
|
|
|
I love UK English. My wife mocked me the other day for saying I was going to replace a bin liner instead of trash bag. Always lived in Texas just too many British / Canadian / Australian comedies I guess. Took me google to figure out what Thermo fans were. Your Lada rocks. Psycho Donut Killer fucked around with this message at 18:18 on May 29, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 18:15
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:I fail to see the issue with seats.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 19:55
|
|
|
Psycho Donut Killer posted:I love UK English. My wife mocked me the other day for saying I was going to replace a bin liner instead of trash bag. Always lived in Texas just too many British / Canadian / Australian comedies I guess. There are Australian Comedies? I thought we just did Neighbours and lovely reality TV. Thanks by the way  InitialDave posted:Partly they have to cover their arses against people sliding off during maximum-G manoeuvres (unlikely) or slathering it on and not wiping it off and ruining their clothers (more likely). Wear a loving seatbelt. Wipe it down properly. Sorted. Liability is a bitch. I just made an order for parts. Postage was nearly what I paid for the parts but you get that. I bought: * Radiator cap. * Thermostat. * Fan belt. * Ferodo brake pads for the front. * 2x distributor rotors (They were different somehow and I didn't know which one was right). * Clutch master cylinder. * Radiator hoses. It still works out waaay cheaper than parts for the Fairlane. So it'll be getting a cooling system refresh minus the heater hoses and the radiator, a new distributor rotor to replace the probably original one with the crack running through it, the clutch MC to replace the one slowly leaking into the cabin, brake pads to replace the backing plates with possibly a whiff of pad it currently has and... yeah. I'll probably do another order in late June / July after I take it to get failed for roadworthy. These things I know all need replacing, but beyond that I don't know what the inspector will find to pick on.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2013 01:50
|
|
|
Ronnie Johns Half Hour, Supernova (the one with astronomers in the observatory in the outback, and I have seen Balls of Steel: Australia and liked it but it gets old quick since its always the same crap every time.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2013 19:48
|
|
|
Psycho Donut Killer posted:Ronnie Johns Half Hour, Supernova (the one with astronomers in the observatory in the outback, and I have seen Balls of Steel: Australia and liked it but it gets old quick since its always the same crap every time. I haven't seen any of them! Not much to report. Took my son for a quick drive around the yard again. No smoke, then a few seconds later smoke and that smell of burning poo poo off. By the time we were done it was up to 80 odd *C. I had the presence of mind to check the exhaust before killing the engine. No smoke and it smelled clean if that makes sense. Adjusting the valves has done it a world of good and I think it probably still has some crap to burn. I really, really need to add a relay for the thermo fan. My son keeps trying to stick his hands through the grille and the fan guards into the fans. As it is after it has been running there's a possibility of a temperature spike turning the fans on. I also plan to shove some flyscreen behind the grille anyway in preparation for locust season.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 00:27
|
|
|
Psycho Donut Killer posted:Ronnie Johns Half Hour
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 10:10
|
|
|
Fo3 posted:loving cataphract is flogging insurance or finance or some bullshit ad on TV now after begging here for logie votes. I remember the show now, gently caress that was years ago. Back when I used to read GBS
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 10:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 23:25 |
|
|
Fo3 posted:loving cataphract is flogging insurance or finance or some bullshit ad on TV now after begging here for logie votes. I saw that comedy group before they got that TV show 
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 11:44
|
|