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Rime
Nov 2, 2011



The title is a bit of a misnomer since the DPO and DPPO have already done significant work to this bike. The first owner cobbled it together out of a 1980 CB400T with the engine out of a 1982 CM450C and parts from things I can't even identify, fun times!

I acquired this earlier in the week for a fairly steep price for a frankenbike, but this is Vancouver and everything not a sportbike is steeply priced. I have never ridden a motorcycle in my life, and when it got here I spent 20 minutes trying to get it in neutral to roll it forwards 5 feet so the landladies wouldn't hit it with their car. Managed to recover from nearly dumping it twice!

How it looked originally:




The DPO has already:
- Rebuilt Carbs
- Rebuilt front brake
- LED signals
- New sealed battery
- New fuel petcock on salvage tank
- Redone Gaskets
- New Chain
- New rear wheel & sprocket
- New front tire

Things I wish I could do:
- Scrambler style exhaust. Any ideas where I'd find something compatible? Should I hit the local wrecking yard?

Things I need to do (not in order):
- De-Rust. The tank has rust underneath and spots on the outside. The footpegs and stand are also pretty bad. (06/01/13: 80% Done)
- Repaint. As much as I think the mismatch slightly-rusted ghetto look is awesome, having any rust on my tank scares me and the previous white & green paint is kinda lovely. My current plan is a dark British Racing Green on all the plastic, and the tank as well with two crimson welsh-style dragons on each side. (06/01/13: 50% done)
- Buff & Repaint wheels. (06/01/13: Nah. Maybe in the fall.)
- Sand the Aluminum. The exhaust pipes are brutally dull as are the side covers on the engine and the forks. (06/01/13: This gave me a respiratory infection, so gently caress it.)
- Clean the cam heads and generally check the inside of the engine. It sounds loving awesome and has plenty of snot, but this needs to get done regardless.
- Remove fork guards and mount the headlamp lower, with an entirely new lamp since the casing for this one is cracked to poo poo and full of holes. (06/01/13: On hold till August.)
- Change fork oil. Last changed roughly 30 years ago. (On hold till August.)
- Source a new rubber base for the tank, gaskets for the exhaust and a new fuel line since I trashed the existing one taking the tank off. (06/01/13: These don't exist. Going to have to fabricate it I guess.)
- Take the casing off the instruments and paint them (they are baby blue inside). Heading for a full naked instrument panel. (06/01/13: Yeah, no. This was a terrible idea.)

Timeline for all this? I can legally ride it June 10th when I finish a week long course, has to be ready for the highway by June 16th. Good thing I've got a 3 day weekend right now and a 5 day weekend next week!

How it looks as of this evening:



E: Oh, FFS I posted this with shitpost. Can a mod change the tag to "project"?

Rime fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Jun 2, 2013

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Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Sanded for 9 hours, got front fender mostly clean and the tank like 10%. Today went and bought aircraft fuselage stripper to speed things up, will report back if it eats my skin.

Oh, I flushed the tank with water first but couldn't get all of that water out, so theres like a cup of gassy water slashing around while I'm wire brushing the rust colonies off, so fun!

Good Ship Theseus
Sep 12, 2010

Immortality through endless server backups? Sign me up!


Your timeline is... ambitious. But I respect ambition. :0)

I'm doing some work on one of my bikes over the long weekend, but if you could use an extra set of hands as June 16 approaches, PM me. I don't have a ton of restoration know-how, but I'd love to peek over your shoulder in exchange for free labour.

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009



With that deadline, I would get the mechanical work done first, so you'll at least have a running bike in a month. Fluids, filters, forks, chain, etc. An ugly runner is better than a pretty bike you can't ride.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Mechanical is solid, I took the top off, saw new gaskets, and just decided not to bother until it acts up based on how it was running when I bought it.

Aircraft fuselage stripper is horrifying stuff, and it should cost way more than $10/can:

This is the stripper at work:

This is the tank an hour later:

If I had the skill I'd totally change plans and mirror buff that tank and fender bare, because they look sexy as HELL even rough like this and I've never seen a T-Hawk with a bare tank before.

Thanks for the offer, GST! I haven't touched a bike since I was 5 years old, so I am a sailor on the good ship of the internet bumbling my way through this.

Rime fucked around with this message at 01:38 on May 20, 2013

ADINSX
Sep 9, 2003

Wanna run with my crew huh? Rule cyberspace and crunch numbers like I do?



I dont know, i kind of like it without paint, its never going to be an attractive bike, have you thought about rat rodding it?

Good Ship Theseus
Sep 12, 2010

Immortality through endless server backups? Sign me up!


Fashionably distressed bare metal (with a clear coat, of course) is kind of a thing on a lot of custom bikes these days. For example:


http://www.bikeexif.com/1979-honda-cb500


http://www.bikeexif.com/moto-guzzi-v65


http://www.bikeexif.com/suzuki-thunder-125

If you did a British Racing Green stripe or detail with the rest left as bare "patina metal", it would probably look pretty sharp. I'm not sure how the custom shops get that result - maybe a vinyl decal under lots of clear coat?

Because I'm classy I did Krylon Fusion and a custom graphics kit on my wr250x, but all the panels are plastic, so I haven't the foggiest what works best for DIY in bare metal.

Dake Darkstalker
Mar 11, 2013


Time deadlines are a bitch, my 3 months 1000$ project is in its second year and I am not even gonna add up the bill. Will be awesome in the end.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Wisdom teeth extracted yesterday, headed out to get Rustoleum primer today.

Oh, and I took the fairing off the instruments, turns out the actual casings for the speedo & tach are baby blue plastic. So 80's.

Will update this post with pictures this afternoon.

ReelBigLizard
Feb 27, 2003



Fallen Rib

Good Ship Theseus posted:

Because I'm classy I did Krylon Fusion and a custom graphics kit on my wr250x, but all the panels are plastic, so I haven't the foggiest what works best for DIY in bare metal.


Is this you?


Your bike looks rad.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



In a ghetto attempt to get some rust out, I have somehow managed to get a segment of bicycle chain jammed in the tank. Not sure what it could be caught on, but it is thoroughly lodged at the rear. The design of the tank is such that I can't get a loving mirror in to see what's up, either.

Edit: Yup, it's in there forever. Don't work on your bike when on strong painkillers.


VVVVV: I was vicious with a coat hanger, it just refuses to move at all, it's crazy.

Rime fucked around with this message at 00:49 on May 25, 2013

ReidRansom
Oct 25, 2004





Maybe unbend a coat hanger and jam around to see if you can dislodge it? Or a handful of gravel and shake thoroughly, hoping it doesn't just get stuck in there with the link.

e: and nothing is forever if you have an angle grinder

ee: and can weld, I suppose

ReidRansom fucked around with this message at 00:30 on May 25, 2013

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Wisdom teeth really kicked my rear end. That and the weather being garbage for a week straight. Some things such as fork teardown have subsequently been put off till fall as they are unlikely to kill me and I ain't got time.

Progress report:
- Tank has been POR-15'd. Including the bike chain. gently caress it.
- Tank, Fender, and 1/2 the fairings have been primed, sanded, and have the first coat of paint on. No pics because it looks terrible. Except the general color, that part looks bitchin' rad.
- Exhaust gaskets have been re-installed. Added to the list of things nobody has ever said ever: "Hey man, you know what would be fun? Re-installing exhaust pipes!"

Delicious picture of old-rear end gasket vs. new gasket:


I'm in class every night this week till Friday, at which point I'm hoping to get the final coat on and the dragon stencils done, so I'll try and get an update of the paint job by the weekend.

EDIT: I lied, here's the current paint job. So crappy.

Rime fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Jun 2, 2013

ADINSX
Sep 9, 2003

Wanna run with my crew huh? Rule cyberspace and crunch numbers like I do?



I like it, its got a john deer tractor look going now.

Also is putting por-15 on a chain a good idea? It seems like the only place you'd really care about rust and wear on a chain would be the parts that rotate, and getting por-15 in there would distrub their smooth operation right? I have no idea

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



ADINSX posted:

I like it, its got a john deer tractor look going now.

Also is putting por-15 on a chain a good idea? It seems like the only place you'd really care about rust and wear on a chain would be the parts that rotate, and getting por-15 in there would distrub their smooth operation right? I have no idea

I meant the 4" of bicycle chain that lodged itself inside my gas tank and refused all attempts at removal short of cutting the tank open.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Advice time, guys. Tank is really nicely painted, it's got this kind of satin-ish orange peel texture that is almost matte but not quite (Tad less sheen than the pic up there, I'd guess. 3 coats with 600g wet sand on two), and I love it. Now, before I airbrush this stencil on, questions:

- Should I apply the clear coat before airbrushing or airbrush right on to the paint and clear over it?
- If I airbrush onto the paint, will the adhesive for the stencil gently caress the paint up?
- Should I use a universal glossy clear coat or try a satin clear?
- What the hell does Satin clear coat even look like? The internet has failed me here.
- If I sand the glossy with 1500g wet, won't that give me a non-gloss finish on the clear anyways?

I swear I googled this poo poo and got a dozen conflicting results, usually in poor english. Advice greatly appreciated.

Rime fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Jun 9, 2013

Good Ship Theseus
Sep 12, 2010

Immortality through endless server backups? Sign me up!


quote:

If I airbrush onto the paint, will the adhesive for the stencil gently caress the paint up?

Would painter's tape be a possible way to avoid this? It's a pretty mild adhesive - either tape around the edge of the stencil, or double it up and stick it on the back of the stencil. Or both!

Also, I imagine anything called "satin" is simply less specular finish (i.e. less prominent "glassy" highlights) than a gloss finish.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Finally, after blood sweat and tears, the running product:



Well, somewhat running. I got to ride it a grand total of twice yesterday and then sheared the left valve cover bolt off while investigating an oil leak, and then I snapped an easy-out off inside the bolt this morning. Now it's in the shop having the bolt drilled out of the engine block. Shop is closed tomorrow and Monday, so I won't see it again till Tuesday at the earliest. There goes my plans for the weekend.

EDIT: Make that next wednesday. The cam holder fractured while they were drilling the bolt out, and there's none in the country (even at the local bike wreckers!).

Rime fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Jun 21, 2013

Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

And I'm only saying this because I care.

There are a lot of decaffeinated brands on the market today that are just as tasty as the real thing.



Fun Shoe

As the owner of a 1980 CB400T, I say Godspeed on your endeavours! At some point along the way, some PO put the wrong carbs on the bike, making matching the carb jets a bit of fun

Sounds like I need to take it out to Vancity to sell lol

EDIT: obviously go to http://www.hondatwins.net/ for a wealth of info

Chris Knight fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Jul 2, 2013

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Got it back from the shop today. Good thing I bought a new engine to source that cam holder, because one of the right-side engine bolts on this one is seized up completely making it impossible to do maintenance on like, anything, below the valves.

Then I immediately took it up Mt. Seymour:



Heavy fog, rain slicked road I had never driven before, third time riding a motorcycle on streets in my life. Clearly the best way to break it in after maintenance. Was hoping there would be sunshine at the top but I was a couple hundred meters short and there was no good view of the city either.

Ran like the dickens, now to ride the hell out of it this weekend and get it ready for massive road trip next week.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Back to the top with you! I arrived home yesterday evening to find that some cocksucking mainlander backed into my bike, knocked it over and totaled the front end, then drove off leaving it lying there in a pile of gasoline and shredded rain cover all day. Since I have no hope of tracking down who did it, my deductible is $700. Since that's half the value of the bike, I told ICBC to not even bother assessing it.

Broken clutch handle, tweaked forks, Broken headlight mount, massive dent in my gas tank that nearly punctured it, gas stripping on the paint, lord only knows what else.

Thus, things I need to do before April 2.0:
  • Salvage fuel tank from somewhere and repaint/POR-15 THAT one. Joy. Tanks are impossible to find, a dent puller and bondo is in order.
  • Replace control levers (clutch, brake).
  • Full top-to-bottom rebuild of 20k/km engine that I acquired back in the summer. Swap my 60k/km one out for this.
  • Remove fork guards and mount the headlamp lower.
  • Rebuild forks. Oil last changed roughly 30 years ago.
  • Replace instruments since the speedometer is reading 20-40% slower than I am actually going, and the cable seems to be intact. The Tachometer will work one day and be dead the next.
  • Replace rear exhaust mounts as the right one snapped this summer and it keeps rattling loose at the engine as a result.
  • Replace the electrical harness since it's got more electrical tape than copper.

Would like to do:

- Find a skid plate / highway bars that fit.

- Put some Mefo Explorers on the rims because I've worn the poo poo out of these street tires riding offroad all summer.

Rime fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Oct 17, 2013

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Tore down the on-frame 55k engine this weekend, and just in time. Now I know why it was eating oil all summer!



My rebuild menu of assorted parts is going to such a hilarious frankensteins monster:
- Crankcase & Pistons off 22k engine, needs new gaskets & rings.
- Cylinders & Cam head off 55k engine, check tolerances & hone.(Pray the cylinders aren't to blame for all that loving oil).
- Camshaft & Shizzle off 22k engine.

What a mess. At least the bottom end of the 22k engine is pristine inside.

I still haven't a clue how I'm going to fix the fuel tank, I don't want to just bondo it since the next time bike falls over and the controls punch it, that tank is going to blow wide open.

Rime fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Nov 4, 2013

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012





The most permanent way to repair your tank is to cut out the bad piece, weld in a new piece of sheet metal, and grind/sand/bondo it smooth. Obviously this is very difficult. If you're willing to go that far, just make sure that all the fuel vapors are completely gone (fill the tank up with water to the brim, then drain it) before you strike an arc.

If that seems like a little too much, the next best thing is probably going to be fiberglassing right over the dent and carefully blending in the repair. You'll have a little bit of a raised area around the patch, and you'll lose the dent's amount of fuel capacity, but neither should be too noticeable, and the fiberglass should be tough enough to stand up to what you're worried about.

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.


Or you could bondo it and change the bars so they don't hit the tank.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Hmmm. HMMMM.

This one (55,000km) is going to the shop to be examined, as valves are beyond my tools and expertise:




This one (22,000km) I don't know WTF I'm going to do with. I think the two right side injector valves are pristine, everything else is rusted badly.




At least on the plus side, I found the last remaining set of OEM gaskets on the planet for this engine, for the low low price of $30 shipped. I also picked up this for a cool $120



Found a CB450T tank on Ebay that's pristine aside from a tiny dent on the top left ridge as well. It's $200 shipped, though. I need to inquire with the shop as to how much they'd charge me to cut and reshape my existing tank, as that might be cheaper in the long run.


E: Shops treat you like an idiot if you call them up and ask them to inspect a valve head that's already off the engine. Looks like I'm doing my own valve job and praying I don't gently caress it up.

Rime fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Nov 23, 2013

obso
Jul 30, 2000
OBSOLUTELY

Rime posted:

E: Shops treat you like an idiot if you call them up and ask them to inspect a valve head that's already off the engine. Looks like I'm doing my own valve job and praying I don't gently caress it up.

Are you calling mechanic shops or machine shops? Call a machine shop and ask them to lap the valves. They will tear the head down, inspect everything, lap the valves and seats, and reassemble it. I highly suggest putting in new valve seals at this time. It should be ~$100 and leaves you with a good as new head.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



obso posted:

Are you calling mechanic shops or machine shops? Call a machine shop and ask them to lap the valves. They will tear the head down, inspect everything, lap the valves and seats, and reassemble it. I highly suggest putting in new valve seals at this time. It should be ~$100 and leaves you with a good as new head.

Yeah, the shops I called were full-service motorcycle outfits that do machining in house. They were going on about how they couldn't do much with the head off the bike since that meant they couldn't check the cam clearances, and then said it would be around $250 to re-machine the whole thing. Which is a fair observation I suppose but every one I called acted like it was loving bizarre to be requesting it for an engine that is already taken apart.

Just going to pull it apart and make sure the valves aren't pitted since if they are I'm looking at having to play Ebay Roulette and find a full head assembly with non-poo poo valves anyways. There's no OEM source for them anymore.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



New tank? NEW TANK! Off a CB450 no less, so I've increased my fuel capacity by a whole liter!

AncientTV
Jun 1, 2006

for sale custom bike over a billion invested



College Slice

Very nice, after a bit of polish and that'll look splendid.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Found a really nice machine shop that wasn't a bag of rancid dicks on the phone (Thanks for the idea Obso!) and they're giving some tender love to the cylinder head with the understanding that spare parts like valves don't exist for it and this bike is a deliberate freak show.

Meanwhile, right side replacement piston has a cracked edge and is useless:


Thankfully my cylinders are well within tolerance without overboring, according to ze micrometer, so I picked up a pair of NOS pistons and rings off Ebay for a goddamn whistle and song and dropped the cylinders off for a deglazing while they're doing the valves.

Next step: Pulling my swingarm off to check the bearings and shocks (right side is a bit wiggly at the top mount), outside, in December.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



2014 is going to be a good year.

Cylinders honed, new gaskets & NOS Pistons, valve head re-machined, newly painted in high-temp black and new valve seals:



I'm just waiting on my rings and assorted O-Rings order to arrive, and then I'll get a compressor from the tool library and soda blast the side covers before getting it all back together and onto the frame.

After that, the real work begins.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Final order placed for sundry engine components and head firmly back in place after the misguided idea of removing the airbox to shave weight. My goal is to get this back on the road by the end of next month, after dealing with the front forks and getting new tires.

Question time!
- I noticed that after a day of vigorous logging road bumps my chain was rubbing on my swingarm. This is very bad and is there any way to prevent it beyond adjusting my rear wheel regularly? Is there a doohickey I could get to add tension?

- 34 year old Comstar rims and offroad bumpity time scares me, I don't want to end up 300km from civilization with a cracked rim. Anyone have insight into replacing them with wires?

- The dual-sport club told me I was a retard for wanting to take a 450cc motorcycle on the dual sport trails in the lower mainland, regardless of modifications. Should I flip the bird to them and their fancy-rear end KLR's?

- How much is my wallet going to hate me for replacing my rusted out Mac 2-2's with a 2-1 scrambler exhaust?

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Rime posted:


- I noticed that after a day of vigorous logging road bumps my chain was rubbing on my swingarm. This is very bad and is there any way to prevent it beyond adjusting my rear wheel regularly? Is there a doohickey I could get to add tension?

Keep adjusting it and get a new chain if necessary. Make sure your axle is correctly torqued, they take a shitload more than feels necessay, IIRC.

quote:

- The dual-sport club told me I was a retard for wanting to take a 450cc motorcycle on the dual sport trails in the lower mainland, regardless of modifications. Should I flip the bird to them and their fancy-rear end KLR's?

Yes but you're still probably going to get stuck and break things. Do it anyway.

Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

And I'm only saying this because I care.

There are a lot of decaffeinated brands on the market today that are just as tasty as the real thing.



Fun Shoe

LMAO taking off the airbox to "save weight".

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


I wouldn't expect there to be a whole lot of surplus weight on that bike. Maybe some lighter shocks or wheels would cut lbs, but where else could it be lost? Seat? Fork?

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Removing the airbox would have shaved a couple of kilos off, the drat thing is huge. More importantly, it would have opened up a lot of space and allowed me to move the electronics & battery to the inside of the frame.

I'd really like to switch the comstars for wires, though, both for weight and so they don't strand me in bumfuck nowhere someday.


VVVVV: Fuel efficiency. Shaving 5 kilos off means I can carry my camping gear without taking a hit on my range between fuel ups. I'm planning on carrying a 2G Rotopax for emergencies, but upping the MPG by a couple of km would have been a nice safety net given the vast distances involved in rural British Columbia.

Especially these days, there's a lot of rural gas stations that don't exist anymore (Gold Bridge, for instance).

Rime fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Jan 17, 2014

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012





Rime posted:

Removing the airbox would have shaved a couple of kilos off, the drat thing is huge.

Yeah, but it's full of air.

e: are you making a racing bike? Why does a few kilos matter to you?

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


What about replacing your gauges with a Trailtech or something? I bet your stock ones with the brackets are a good 8 lbs.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



I'm swapping the entire cluster for a 2.5" Speedo when I get to the fork rebuild next month, the tach works sporadically and the speedometer was under-reporting my speed massively all summer ( 110 when it claimed I was doing 90, 80 when it said 60, etc).

I don't know how I managed to not get pulled over.

Sagebrush posted:

I feel like you'd save a lot more gas by riding 10 mph slower than by reducing the weight 5 kilos. Mass only really matters for acceleration and climbing hills, but the energy required to overcome wind resistance goes up with the square of your speed.

VVV: I spend more time adventuring than on the highway:

Rime fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Jan 17, 2014

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Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012





I feel like you'd save a lot more gas by riding 10 mph slower than by reducing the weight 5 kilos. Mass only really matters for acceleration and climbing hills, but the energy required to overcome wind resistance goes up with the square of your speed.

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