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SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

Megadyptes posted:

I bought a new headset and the headband part is a bit too thick for my TrackIR clip. I managed to just about squeeze it on but after a while it popped off chipping a tiny bit of plastic in the process. It still clips together but I don't want to try that again. How am I supposed to sperg now? :sigh:

My Track clip Pro is held together with hot glue. I sent Naturalpoint my shipping invoice, a photo of the broken clip (mine broke at the movable joints, not the clip), and asked them if they could help me out. They sent me a new Track Clip pro no questions asked, and I didn't have to return the old one. The hot glue is still working fine so I'm milking the old clip for as long as I can keep it held together.

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SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
Occulus would be a nightmare in DCS. You'd need virtual hands to to flip cockpit switches, because you have no way of looking at your controls, or telling where your real hands are.

I really want it to work, but I still can't believe that the occulus will be anything but a toy that very few people have. I'm hoping I'm wrong.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
I've been practicing auto-rotation. I realize I'm not very good, but I think the game was just needlessly rubbing it in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daNUES2zGr8

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
Steam DCS is out of date. Eagle Dynamics and Valve didn't see eye to eye on things and stopped releasing updates for the Steam version. Follow Hobbesmaster's instructions and you'll be much happier with DCS World. You'll then be tempted with the other DCS modules, like the KA-50 blackshark, the P-51 mustang, and the Bell UH-1 Huey! Also, combined arms, if you want to take control of a AAA gun and try and shoot down your buddies.

YouTube has all sorts of tutorials for the A-10, and The Eagle Dynamics forums also has a ton of resources like printable key maps, and control profiles for the X52. Save's a bunch of time trying to program an entire HOTAS. ;)

I've been rather addicted to the Huey lately. I'm really, really sorry for making this, but gently caress Michael Knight and gently caress KITT. Airwolf is where it's at.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQ83J9s-c00


Make sure to do the training missions for the A-10! They are full of important info, and get you used to using the HOTAS. Memorize how to do one thing at a time, and then you'll be able to put them all together without being completely overwhelmed.

Finally, Reddit has a virtual squadron of guys who fly missions regularly, and they are nice people (unlike most of Reddit). Tuesday night is their newbie night, you could learn a lot from pilots there. /r/hoggit has details. on servers and teamspeak stuff.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
Can I click all the switches in the cockpit? Looks beautiful.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
You shouldn't need to use the X52's configuration software at all if I recall correctly. There might have been a few things I did like colored lights or made the LCD say things when I pushed buttons, but DCS is fine with taking the raw inputs. Just map them in the controls setting of DCS. (I could be entirely wrong on this though. You should follow the instructions in the links.)

Controller configs are stored in LUA files that cover specific devices. You can save or load them into the game in settings > control

Let me repeat. In DCS, saving a profile only saves the profile for the highlighted device. It won't save it for all your devices. I have a LUA profile for my joystick, my throttle, and my rudders. 3 separate files, all need to be saved and loaded separately.

I've dug up some profiles for the x52 pro made by Iron of /r/Hoggit. You should start with them and tweak them to your liking.
http://www.dropbox.com/s/9uexeyebixo72qa/DCS%20World%20Iron%20profiles%201.2.2.zip
http://wiki.hoggit.us/view/Iron%27s_X-52_PRO_Profile_for_A-10C


Get a TrackIR 5. DCS is a different game with head tracking. You don't really need the Trackclip Pro unless you are in a room with mirrors behind you. The IR beams from the TrackIR camera bounce off the mirror or reflective surface behind you and give false returns, which makes the tracking bug out. The track clip pro avoids this problem by putting the IR LED's in the head mount shining towards the camera. TrackIR is always effected by bright natural light so you might have to close your blinds (who am I kidding we live in basements. we don't worry about natural light!). SAVE YOUR RECEIPT AND SALES SLIP FOR YOUR TRACK CLIP PROIf it breaks they will RMA you a new one but Naturalpoint is a stickler about proof of purchase.

edit: updated profiles to working links.

SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Jun 11, 2013

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
I got bad X52 pro and a non pro. The non pro had loose wiring, and the throttle and all its buttons cut out whenever I advanced it; the lights and buttons turned back on 3 seconds later.
The X52 also has a mouse wheel. When you click buttons on the X52, the button you pressed is displayed on the LCD. Well, on my firmware of the x52, that LCD could only display 15 characters.
"middle mouse bttn" is longer then 15 characters. Pressing the scroll wheel button on it, would lock up the drivers and slow the entire system to a craw; unplugging the joystick would BSOD your machine. You had to make your way at 1FPS across the desktop and kill the control software with end task.

My X52pro was riddled with spiking pots, and the buttons felt worse then the X52, but had the decency to at least not BSOD when using the default profile included with the stick.

Saitek no longer exists.

Let me repeat this. Saitek no longer exists as a corporate entity.

Saitek was bought out by MadCatz inc in Novemer of 2007 for 30 million dollars. MadCatz also bought Joytech, in attempt to prevent competition. I've no doubt they would have bought Logitech if Logitech wasn't easily able to buy them.

MadCatz, is known universally for making the most god awful controllers ever to have graced mankind. The OUYA controllers have nothing on the poo poo that Mad Catz puts out.

It must have taken some years, but MadCatz's "make everything cheap as hell and don't bother with QA" attitude has finally permeated the dying husk of Saiteks Corporate culture.

Unfortunately, there is nothing else on the market for the price point. At all. Keep all your receipts and documentation and be ready for RMA fights. Do not accept anything less then perfection from their gear. RMA it if the drat thing is scuffed.

MadCatz has basically monopolized the HOTAS sector below $400 They aren't the best choice, they are the ONLY choice. :smithicide:

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

Hav posted:

Wait a minute, hold on there....


OUYA controller's don't BSOD your computer when you push buttons. They just get stuck under the faceplate.

Q.E.D. :colbert:

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
I've played 3 of "DCS: Huey"'s campaign missions now, and spent several hours doing basic flight practice (Crashing around airports). I absolutely love the UH-1; the Huey is demanding, quirky, and oh so satisfying when you get it right. It's a nice break from having to constantly be rushing to mark targets and fire mavricks and GBUs. Even if you're just delivering supplies or taking some reporters on an escort mission with some attack choppers, the game manages to be rewarding. I'm not sure about it's multiplayer viability, you'd need some real good maps and setups I suspect, because it's not exactly fast or well armored.

It's taken me hours of practice to land without dying, and I still land like I'm drunk. Every time I manage to land exactly where I want to without nearly falling into my own rotor wash or swaying wildly is thrilling. It does not flatter you like the A-10, it actively tries to kill you if it realizes you don't know what the hell you're doing.

The campaign missions are scripted and fully voiced; I like the co-pilots banter, but the loving Americans keep shooting at me. They knocked out one of my ADF antennas last mission. I suspect in the next few missions, I'm going to have to go out with some rockets and mini-guns, and take care of those sons-of-bitches. Just because my name is Pedro doesn't mean you can shoot at a UN helicopter! I'm not even Mexican! I'm Spanish!

If you enjoy fast paced action, DCS Huey is not for you. If you want a low-rider that can fly, you'll like the Huey.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

hobbesmaster posted:

Hueys will probably last about 30s after getting airborne in multiplayer because of labels.

Combined arms game.

Red team has political refugees that they don't want escaping. Have control of AAA guns. no SAMs or CAS, just artillery.

Blue team has to head to the refugees in Huey's to pick them up.

There could be multiple LZ's for the huey's making the red team have to choose between a perimeter, where they think the choppers will head through, or spread out to the LZ's, and not have enough hardware to cover them all at once.

There's multiplayer potential, but it's very specialized, and you'd need a really good map maker. It would look a lot different from A-10 multi player maps, and that could be a good thing. It's a shame I have no clue how to make maps, and I hate :effort:

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

Daimo posted:

You just sold me on it.

Only you can prevent mast bumping and excessive flapping. :quagmire:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QkOpH2e6tM

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

Falken posted:

How do I enter stuff into the scratchpad for stuff like the Maverick slew speed and LS time for weapon profiles?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GA1pXR62qF4
This GBU training run covers LS time input. autolase, LS time, CCRP, CCIP, are all in DSMS.

Not sure on the Maverick slew speed. It might be covered in the guided munitions tutorial.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

Dark_Swordmaster posted:

Also, despite the talk of the X52's breaking with disturbing regularity, it still seems like it's the most reasonable bang-for-buck HOTAS. Anyone care to champion something else for approximately the same price point?

There is no other stick on the market that does what it does at it's price point.

Does "The best warranty you can buy from Newegg or Microcenter or Fry's so you never have to deal with Mad Catz Technical support." count as championing something else? Because I'd recommend it for any product you are forced to purchase from Mad Catz.


Well. I lie. There is one option. :rms:

You could gut a Logitech X3D pro and turn it into a throttle more successfully then I was ever able to manage. Getting the throttle to slide without spiking was something i never got right, and everything had to be perfectly centered whenever you plugged it in or weird poo poo happened with the pots, which never worked the way I wanted either. :smith:

It would probably be childsplay to a proper engineer, but alas, my degree in engineering is made of tape and hot glue, and my fabrication shop comes in a small box labeled "Dremel". :eng99::

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
Holy poo poo is right. I was pretty pissed off after my ordeal with the X52's, but I still wasn't ready to spend money on a Warthog and pedals, so I said to myself "gently caress it, I'll make my own HOTAS! With hookers! and blackjack!"


The X3d I hacked up was actually like 5 or 6 years old, and some buttons on the base weren't working. needing to replace it lead to the X52 fiasco, and in the end I bought another X3d for like 35 bucks, and began tearing apart the old one to make it a throttle to pair with the new stick. It actually worked fairly well when I was able to get it to behave, but before long some bit of tape or glue would give way and throw everything out of whack. If someone wants to attempt it, I've got words of advice about doing it, but :effort:. Ask if you want to try it yourself and I'll write up some details that will save you a lot of headaches.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

Dark_Swordmaster posted:

I currently own and have been using an X3D. It doesn't center or calibrate properly and requires about a 10% deadzone.

My X52 had a 100% deadzone of the entire throttle range whenever it was moved. The buttons on the throttle had a 100% dead zone at the same time. :colbert:

A pair of X3d's are still cheaper then an X52, and I honestly DO NOT recommend someone try the mod, unless they like building crazy contraptions just to say "gently caress you" to Mad Catz.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

The Ferret King posted:

My E3D has been totally satisfactory. Not only because it works better with less hassle than the couple $200+ systems I tried, but also because it cost me $15 used. If it starts acting up I'll just buy another one, who cares.

That's what I love about them. They cost about as much as ordering in some delivery food.

The dead zone is totally a thing but I found it pretty serviceable in an A10; I even managed to do an air to air refuel with an E3d. once. The real problem is the lack of buttons makes doing anything but flying the aircraft kinda difficult. You're playing the game with the stick in one hand and trying to reach impossible key combinations with your other hand. "press left control and numpad enter with one hand to continue"

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

Dark_Swordmaster posted:

Any of you using pedals by chance and can weigh in on them?


I'm using a set of CH pro pedals (The hidden $150 cost of Thrustmaster warthog). A twist stick will work just fine for most things. DCS: Huey pretty much requires rudder pedals though. You are almost always fiddling with the pedals and the cyclic is a handful all on it's own, so you don't need a twist grip complicating things even more.

I can't say I'm totally blown away with the CH pedals Ive got, but I am satisfied and think I got what I paid for. They're spaced a bit narrow together for my liking, and I find that the pedals have an extremely minor tendency of sticking when I've got to make fine adjustments at large pedal deflections. I think I just need to lube it up better to fix that. They also came with some plastic blocks that let you lock out the rudder action, and use them as racing pedals instead.

I bought them specifically because they weren't made by Saitek. They haven't broken or given me any poo poo, and their terribad software isn't required to make them work.

They look extremely generic, but that's fine because they seem solid underneath their plain exterior. I expect they'll last many years.

Landing A10's with rudder pedals feels a bit more dramatic too as you use the pedals for wheel brakes. It's like trying to put your feet through the firewall of your car while stopping. Flavor, but not substance.


Edit:

I also want to point out right now, you can be a good pilot and have lots of fun in DCS even with a crap stick. Only us flight sim spergs need to drop outlandish amounts of money on joysticks. I don't think the average person should even consider a warthog unless they are really serious about playing flight sims for years. It's way to expensive for something you'll only play with a few months and get bored of when the next new game comes along.

SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Jun 14, 2013

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

Falken posted:

e: I just realised I have one of these Track Boss Button Box I intended to incorporate into my PC simracing rig. I wonder how useful this would be for DCS.


It would probably work really, really, well. You might have to do some slight LUA editing here and there, but overall, it should be plug and play if it shows up as a USB gaming device.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

Essobie posted:

I laughed for a good minute after clicking on this thumbnail. Bravo, sir. Even if this thing only works 25% of the time, it is a wonder.


My biggest problem was pot spiking. I should never have taken apart the throttle and just left it as it was. The twist functionality had a similarly spiking pot when taken out of it's housing, so ultimately I was unable to use either one as anything. I had hoped to use one as a zoom, and the other as. um. well, I don't know, but an extra axis is always handy.

The second fundamental problem was that every time you plugged in the joystick, it runs a calibration routine. During this routine, every pot needs to be centered or they won't function correctly. The pots have no markings at all to tell you where center is.

The final problem was that of a friction lock for the throttle. It is important to be able to set the throttle at a speed and have it stay there. I was never able to be able to get a working friction lock that would do this for more then an hour before the tape got a hole rubbed through it or something.

If I were a talented engineer, I'm sure I could have made it work. I've got more money then talent though, and bought a Thrustmaster Warthog and some rudder pedals rather then continue to try and make it work.

I've got a few more photos I'm sure nobody is very interested in, so I'll Just give you the link rather then inline them. ;)

http://secure.flickr.com/photos/socket7/sets/72157630727944638/

Fake edit:

That DCS app for iPad is the first thing that's made me want a iPad. I wonder if I could get Huey instrument panels on it.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

The Bananana posted:

Hope this is the right place for this:

Sometimes while flying helo in Arma 3, my controls will suddenly no longer be centered,

Is there a trim button? That would put the cyclic stick and possibly rudder pedals in a non neutral position in game, when your joystick is centered.

Trimming a helicopter is different from a plane. You get the helicopter stable in whatever flight mode you want (hovering, moving forward, whatever) then hit the trim so that the cyclic stick centers there, and you don't constantly have to be holding it in position.

If you aren't accidentally hitting a trim button, I'd guess it's a bug.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
The trim button would be part of your ARMA key config. It's not something that's part of the joystick.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
The Huey has a trim system that works in almost the exact same manner. Pushing the force trim button adjusts the cyclic stick so it centers wherever you had it positioned when you pushed the trim button. I'm not sure you can hold the trim button down like you can do with the Ka-50 though. :smuggo:

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
I find my CH rudder pedals to be a bit too narrow. I'd like them to be spaced wider apart. Otherwise I'm happy with them.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
There is probably a TARGET script that you can use for falconBMS. It should configure the stick for it fine. One of the stock profiles in TARGET GUI is FalconAF. but I don't know if thats the same thing, or close enough you can use as a base to make your own profile. There should be A TARGET profile around for it somewhere though.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

The Geoff posted:

Are the DCS chopper sims (especially UH-1) flyable without pedals, extra throttles etc? Looking at picking one or two up while they're on sale but I don't want to have to buy a bunch of equipment. A-10C works fine with my cheap joystick but I get the feeling a helicopter would be tougher to fly without the proper controls.

The KA-50, yeah, you can fly that without pedals. Just a twist stick rudder. It's not ideal, but I've done it and it's not bad at all.

The Huey is FAR more temperamental about rudder control, and the cyclic stick is enough of a handful without having to keep it twisted properly at all times.

There is the "add force trim to rudder pedals" in the options mode for the UH-1. That might make flying it with a twist stick easier.

SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Jun 21, 2013

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
Isn't that just for the P-51? Yeah, it is. I just checked.

The UH-1 has 2 options. "Rudder trim" which will add your pedals to the trim system so you aren't constantly on the pedals to keep it stable.

It also has "central position trim mode" I'm not sure what it does exactly.

Really, all you need is a spare axis you can map the rudder to. it doesn't have to be pedals. An axis that centers on its own might be nice, but something that stays where you put it could be good too.


Edit: Is there any interest in getting together for a training night on the UH-1? I don't have all the answers, but I've been flying it long enough I can answer SOME questions.

SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Jun 22, 2013

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
Just get yourself a trackIR5 if you're serious about it.

You only need the track clip pro ifyou want to wear silly headphones and have a mirror behind you. Otherwise you need a dimish room without much UV light (just draw the shades) and a baseball cap to put the reflectors on.

It's worth it. Freetrack and TrackNoir are terrible.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

Bondematt posted:

That dude seems super angry at Natural Point. Some of his points are very valid, but the obsolescence thing is weird, since he is basically asking them to spend time to get old poo poo to work on the new hotness for nothing other than making a small subset of customers happy.

Naturalpoint makes some lovely mechanical designs. Like the joints on the Track Clip Pro. They look more like latches to hold a battery door in place then rotational joints.

I can only imagine that these people who melt them are using the IR lights on the TrackIR at maximum intensity. Since I've got the track clip, mine never gets more then slightly warm to the touch.

His requests that TrackIR 2's work with TrackIR 5 software is just kind of silly. Backwards compatibility cannot be kept forever, and at a certain point, continuing to add features to low end hardware will make a bad impression on your users; They might just not want to sell a product that sucks. The overheating thing might be something to keep in mind for those using the hat clip though. Don't turn your IR's up to maximum. Keep em as low as possible and that should help.


Flight dangerous as all hell is now boarding at gate 202. I love Nvidia spanning mode.

SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Jun 24, 2013

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
http://imgur.com/a/iT2UG

I set a building on FIRE by landing on it's roof. Not sure how.

Linked because I'm that rear end in a top hat using nvidia spanning mode, making screenshots that are 5667x1200.

Anyone else been rocking the Huey with something to show for it?

SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Jun 26, 2013

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

holocaust bloopers posted:

1. Yes. unbelievably so. You won't be at a loss for functionality
2. Solid, well-built, sturdy, fantastic, etc. It feels every bit of its price. It'll be the last stick and throttle you'll ever need.
3. Just fine as long as you have rudder pedals. By the way, the stick doesn't twist so you'll need rudder pedals.

TARGET is actually easy to use to program the stick and throttle.

I'll jump in on this. I just fixed my coolie hat thanks to their tech support, so...

1. Buttons. Buttons for everything. Should be the last joystick you'd ever need.
2. It weighs 14 pounds. It feels solid. The slider on the throttle jitters just a little bit. I've never found a slider that doesn't jitter, and this jitters the least. I've found that the stick itself could be a bit better lubricated, a fact I notice most while flying helicopters. Thrustmaster won't void your warranty if you poke around to grease it better, but keep your receipts or they WILL void your warranty. The stick requires the most force of any stick I've ever used to move, and I like it that way. It makes it feel solid and real, not like a toy.
3. Works great as a chopper stick. use the axis curves.

If you want the best drat HOTAS on the market, the warthog is it. There are far more affordable sticks that can do the job just as well however, and they don't need pedals. Make sure money is not an option, or you are seriously set on flight sims before buying.

TARGET is easy to use but incredibly tedious. Still better then anything else.

SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Jun 27, 2013

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
I'm encoding a video of how to fly the Huey right now! It started out as a quickstart video, and then became a rambling instruction video 30 minutes long explaining a a whole bunch of stuff.

Yes, you need pedals, but don't put curves on them.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaXYVdMZNr8

SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jun 28, 2013

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
In general you want a lot of fine control on the cyclic. If you need to do major control movements compensate with force trim.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
So there is a dude on the android marketplace making instrument panels that tie into your phone and DCS. Currently you can get instrument panels for both the Huey and the P-51 (I imagine that the blackshark and A-10 info is a bit harder to export). It's pretty cool stuff. Now I just need somewhere to mount my phone so I can see all the dials without looking far from the screen.)

http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.portman.panel.uh1h&feature=search_result
http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.portman.panel&feature=search_result

Oh and a TEWS display for FC3
http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.portman.tews&feature=search_result

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
If you like flying fighter jets, you probably won't like the Huey much. The Huey is basically a sky pimp mobile. Much slower paced. Hell, the first campaign mission is just flying from one airport to another via visual references and following your copilots instructions. The second is a supply run, which teaches you that landing in a ravine is hard, and wind direction matters, a lot. The third mission you are ferrying around some reporters and have to stay close to some attack choppers. Basic formation flying stuff. Then you start getting into more combat situations, airlifting troops and I'm assuming I'll eventually get to use those rockets and miniguns you can strap on the Huey.

If you're a weirdo like me who enjoys just flying around more then yanking and banking, you'll love the Huey. It is a challenging and rewarding aircraft to master.

SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Jun 30, 2013

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012

hobbesmaster posted:

Though flying VFR low and fast (ish) is always fun.

I just have a Logitech 3d pro, how possible would if be to control a Huey?

It could be difficult. I've got pedals and it's difficult. I cant imagine trying to hold the stick steady and twisting it at the same time.

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
The Huey is not the Ka-50. Hovering requires constant pedal and cyclic adjustments (around 30% left pedal). you COULD try adding the rudders to the force trim, there is an option for that, but if you trim the pedals far left, you wont be able to push them all the way back right again without re-trimming.

Anyways. Since I apparently suck, I'd love to see a video of you running the second Huey campaign mission with a twist stick. Maybe I could learn something. :colbert:

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
DKS: Digital Kite Simulator :v:

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
Are you sure you have all the chipset and USB drivers installed for your machine? If you just did a re-install, you could have missed something.

It also sounds like the drivers fot the X52 might be crashing. I know I could get my X52 to BSOD windows 7 by locking up the software with a bug, then unplugging the X52. Before unplugging the stick, the entire machine would slow to an absolute crawl. Maybe check if the X52 software is running?

It's been a while since I had an X52, so I can't go very far down the troubleshooting path for you, but it's a few leads to check. Hope one helps :)

SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
Track clip pro is fragile as poo poo and requires a USB connection for power. It's just 3 little IR led's,a resistor, and very cheap molded plastic.

I had to use one for a while because I had a mirror behind my computer. It works just fine, but the joints will break. Save your receipt so you can RMA it when it inevitably breaks.

That said, I just stuck mine back together with hot glue and it's worked like a charm since. It doesn't articulate anymore, but since only I use it, It doesn't need to. I got one from their RMA department but i haven't taken it out of the packaging since I'm able to keep the old one going.

Oh, And if you want the trackclip, you'll be wearing headphones instead of a hat. It's not much of an improvement. I'm actually thinking about trying out the reflector because I'm sick of wearing headphones, and would rather wear a silly hat.

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SocketSeven
Dec 5, 2012
Eagle Dynamics and Valve have had a long and troubled history (I'm not sure why but they clearly have had issues with each other), I wouldn't bother using Steam for it, since DCSworld has it's own updater anyways. Just buy direct from ED.

You should just be able to pull up the key from steam and use it in the standalone version just fine.

As far as starforce goes, you get I think 9 activations before you're hosed. If you get hosed, you can E-mail ED, and they will de-auth all your activations from their end. I've never had to use this, so I could be wrong on details, but that is how I understand it works.

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