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I guess I'll add a shot of my aquarium while I'm at it: Added some java fern and an amazon sword a few weeks back and they have been doing well. The dwarf baby tears has also taken off giving a nice ground cover. I took this shot this morning while they were feeding as it is the best chance of catching the CPDs in the open. Also, there is such a thing as over filtration as I have been experiencing it. This mostly concerns water flow though. I suspect I could use the old pump if I went and retrofitted the system to have a pair of spray bars running instead of a jet nozzle. I replaced the included 211gph pump with one that only does 40-80gph and the cpds will actually play out in the open at times. Especially when I have it set to around 60 or 70. At 211, they just hid all day and never came out. Since the water change, I haven't seen him, but I have seen a few fry as well. At least they are happy I guess.
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Jun 17, 2013 12:42
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Shakenbaker posted:I suppose you could try, but wouldn't putting it into mesh cut down on the light it gets? Also the seeds off those things are tiny to the point where I be you'd still wind up with some loose and floating. I do wonder if one of those hang on refugiums would work for something like that though. It might work, but my issue with such a setup would mostly be asking the point. One other benefit of floaters is that it cuts the intensity of the light a bit arriving to the bottom of the tank. This means some fish are less stressed and willing to be out in the open. Of course, that also means less to little light for a carpet plant.
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Jun 20, 2013 13:22
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I've also seen suggested as well that some algae just refuses to grow with enough co2 in the tank. Diatoms is one I think which would explain why I have never had it in mine so far. However, that isn't any kind of scientific experiment, so what I don't get may happen to others. And that last line needs to be taken into account. While some things have been proven to work, others have varying levels of success because of the condition of the water, condition of the livestock, how much food they are receiving, the level of filtration, and even the temp of the water just to name a few. JuffoWup fucked around with this message at 10:35 on Jun 23, 2013 |
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Jun 23, 2013 10:33
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Toussaint Louverture posted:Look at their little potbellies. LOOK AT THEM! whats up potbelly bro 
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Jun 30, 2013 12:40
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So I went to live aquaria today just to look over their plant selection again as I have been pondering a small rescape. The dwaf baby tears is cool to look at, but the algae that still remains have entered a symbiotic relationship with the plant that makes the whole thing look terrible. I was going to go with dwarf hair grass in replacement which I could get some tissue cloned stuff from petsmart. However, it is a toss up on getting about one bag a week to do this as that is about the number of bags that actually look decent at any one time. The other thing I wanted was some color. The java fern has been doing nothing for me and I just don't enjoy it. The crypt wendtii (also a clone from petsmart) has been doing great, but is shorter than I expected and is starting to get shadowed by the amazon sword next to it (another tc). So off to liveaquaria to take a look again at perhaps some colored live plants I could put in here such as a red flame to compliment the regular sword that would be its neighbor. I have been lucky so far in that none of the plants I got from liveaquaria came with snails or any pests. To my surprise, they now offer tc plants as well. This includes not only dwarf hair grass, but also a red plant (something petsmart didn't have) in the form of Alternanthera reineckii var 'roseafolia'. Or at least, that is what they are claiming. The picture shown doesn't match other pictures I have seen of the same name, so I don't know.
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Jul 12, 2013 02:44
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Alright, this is irritating the heck out of me, so I'll ask and see if anyone has ideas. As you may or may not remember, I set up an aquarium using an innovative marine nuvo 16 (switched out lighting and pump). Current stock are cpds and 3 otos. I can't say on number because they dart around and hide a lot. I've counted to 12 a few times which is right where they should be. Anyway, I have been finding one in the back of the tank almost daily. My first reaction was that it had leaped and got lucky so I pushed the glass hood back against the divider. I'm still seeing them back there though. The overflow isn't enough to put them in water or get out of the sponge. This leaves a possible gap in my divider which is also possible I suppose even though I specifically tested for it in a leak test when I first set up the aquarium. My other idea is, can fry if they get lucky subsist back there to a more mature state that I notice them? I can't imagine so, but who knows some times. It should be noted that I haven't seen a dead one on either sponge media so if it is through the overflow, they all have succeeded at landing in water. No dead ones on the floor either which rules out suicide attempts. And yes, I have seen assume the position along with seeing a free swimming fry at least once.
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Jul 15, 2013 11:22
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SynthOrange posted:How's your sponge set up? I've got a similar overflow setup, and I used to find shrimp in the back all the time. They're just small enough to fit in the grill if they're determined. I tried many different ways to block them, but this is what worked in the end: There is no sponge actually blocking the overflow right now. I just didn't think the fish would be able to get themselves out of the basket into the water is all. Especially in that none have flopped themselves the wrong way and ended up on the carpet yet.
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Jul 15, 2013 12:12
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SynthOrange posted:Wait, so you mean you're just finding them in the middle sections here? Well that is a mystery. Maybe set out a net? No wait, that'd certainly just result in dried out fish, even though you'd satisfy your curiosity. Yeah, sometimes I'll see them in the refug area where the heaters are as well (there is a 100w heater in both the right and left side instead of just the right side as shown there). And the flow has dropped from that 200+gph monstrosity to a cool 80gph. So it isn't like I'm flinging them into the back area. I can only guess they are somehow riding the overflow over and missing the basket every single time. Or, as I mentioned, it is the little fry making the ride and then growing up in the back (feeding on the bacteria there?).
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Jul 15, 2013 12:35
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Shame that the ebi isn't available in europe. That is one of the better fluval kits right now. Sponge filter making it safe for shrimp and the substrate (you would need to get a second bag) is good enough to grow plants. Plus, it is 7.9 gal. I've been eyeing the little fluval spec 5gal tank. However, like my current tank, I wouldn't recommend shrimp in it. Overflow style tanks are very much not shrimp friendly.
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Jul 16, 2013 10:54
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Yeah, cpds kind of need a small tank and some odd care. Atleast for me, even when there was 15 of them, they were skittish. More importantly, they like heavily planted aquariums, so you end up with the "what fish" problem. Tank looked good from a 'scape point of view, but the fish to make it where not to be found. Check out the postted blue-eye. No experience, but look pretty cool too. From what I've read, are also more outgoing as well. Really though, I think I should have gone for cichlids. Dropped the flow so I'm not blasting my fish around, and now it seems there is almost no water movement in the tank. Lessons learned, don't use a saltwater tank in freshwater. JuffoWup fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Jul 28, 2013 |
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Jul 28, 2013 01:37
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Cowslips Warren posted:Okay goons, need some help. Well, my vote would be the pump if you can get it to work that way. However, there is that expense thing. Handling 30 gals worth of buckets doesn't sound fun in any form.
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Aug 24, 2013 23:28
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Cassiope posted:I’ve been gone for a while, haven’t had internet at all. I’m back to ask you all for some aquarium advice. I would skip co2 injection personally. Unless florida's waterways have improved, I remember them being sparsely planted. That is to say, there were plants, but no ada or dutch setup. Since the concern to co2 is mostly dictated by the light, reduce the lighting. Use 4 bulbs instead of the full 8. If plants seem to be struggling, add another. If you are having an algae problem, reduce. How was filtration handled as a saltwater system? Is it a drilled overflow or did they go with the inexpensive and somewhat unreliable hang on overflow box? Is the refugium also included in this tank or at least can be sold off to add a little extra to the budget? Alternative to co2 that still adds some nutrients, use flourish excel. I would recommend when going that route (and should as a tool anyway) to get one of those simple plastic graduated syringes from a pharmacy. That way, when it says add 1ml of liquid, you know exactly 1ml instead of figuring out where in the threading is 1ml worth (seriously, who thought that was a good measuring idea?). It will also be handy for your water test kits to measuring out 5ml of water. I'm assuming discussion on what stock you plan to add is already been discussed.
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Sep 19, 2013 22:49
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Speaking of oxygenation in a way. Has anyone used something like an apex jr controller in their tank? I'm thinking of it as a way to better keep the lights and co2 in balance. The two timers I have now drift at different rates which is a bad thing really. I'm thinking of adding a small air pump and aeration bar to run at night as well to get the co2 out of the water since plants add to it then. That would be three independent timers that will be drifting around and colliding to some extent. I'm just having a hard time explaining off a $400 controller for a freshwater tank. There is high tech, and then there is this level where it gets questionable.
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Sep 21, 2013 12:58
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Hey guys, if you haven't been to a petsmart recently (who would, but I don't have much other options here), they have some new varieties of tissue cloned plants now. Liveaquaria has a few now as well which are labeled topfin. A couple that caught my eye: Staurogyne repens Anubias barteri var. nana (yes, the really small one and they also sell regular anubias nana as well) And then this cute little guy: http://www.tropica.com/en/plants/plant-articles/pogostemon-helferi-.aspx Interesting little carpet plant. There were some other plants as well that I didn't catch name of.
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Sep 27, 2013 02:21
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FuriousxGeorge posted:Hey folks, I have some newbie questions about stocking a ten gallon if you have a minute. To go with what others have said, assuming a good filter and heater, cover the intake with a piece of sponge filter media or even just wrap it with a bit of nylon hosery and get shrimp. Shrimp won't be affected by the gravel and will be good as cories. They won't have as much personality as them though.
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Oct 3, 2013 08:42
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Desert Bus posted:I don't remember what this type of Gourami is called, and it's 5am, so gently caress if I care. It's pretty: Dwarf Flame Gourami. I was actually dancing between a plain dwarf, flame, or powder blue. Decided on the plain myself. Pretty little fish. As for my fish update, things are in a state of flux. The previous aquascape was causing some troubles I just couldn't correct (and looking over other materials, it would appear I was also doing some other things incorrectly). So the the tank got tore down and is rebooting currently with the driftwood now properly on their sides. As such, the poor fish that remained are hanging out in a bucket with a filter, heater, and little clip led light. So far, no problems and they've been eating without any effort which makes me happy. The filter sponges I was using were put in the bucket to help seed things which I think has helped (they naturally end up on the edges which the cpds are enjoying as a hiding spot between the bucket and the sponge). JuffoWup fucked around with this message at 12:14 on Oct 4, 2013 |
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Oct 4, 2013 12:06
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w00tmonger posted:Hey guys just starting up my first ever fish tank (30g) and I had a question that I'm not sure has come up. albeit my flooring is sturdy enough to support the tank, for some reason it isn't sitting perfectly flat and is leaving ever so slightly forward. Normally this wouldn't be a problem except that the lean has made a very gradual leak due to moisture on the lid of it. You wouldn't even need to change the gravel really as long as you plan ahead with a finer gravel type at the start. You'll need to get some root tab though along with water column ferts to bring you up to par.
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Oct 12, 2013 07:21
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Eifert Posting posted:Anyone know their stuff with LED lighting? Tempted to upgrade in a month or two. The Korean stores all use LEDs and their tanks all look gorgeous. I went off this :http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=160396 And that is how I ended up with a fugeray that has done well. Far as the information I've seen, the big key with lighting no matter what type is keeping your ferts to the appropriate levels. If you are running high lights with too little ferts, the plants won't grow well. On the other hand, too much ferts with minimal lighting, and you get algae and such. So you can't really go wrong with lighting outside of improper color spectrum. Also, I ran across a video on youtube you guys might enjoy. It is a three tiered aquarium setup mirroring the low water levels of some rice paddies. They had one male betta for a little color that was supposed to hang out in the upper area. The fish though kept ending up in the basin area. He would "jump" down the tiers to the bottom. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkfWg35lgXU
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Nov 3, 2013 07:35
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I guess I should also update on my aquarium while I'm at it. Mainly, the reason for the silence was because I gutted the original one for a new layout. Poor fish lived in a bucket for a few weeks while the tank cycled back in. Due to the height in one of the drift wood, removing it would have caused the bottom layer to come up and dirty the tank which it did). So I tore it down and cleaned everything real good. Previously, I was using aquasoil normal type. I was able to obtain the powder type for this go around which has been oh so much better. Water circulation is also better. And yes, I took precautions while they were in the bucket. I used a small airstone powered filter (kind of surprised at the current as I used to laugh at those things) along with a 30% water change every other day.
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Nov 3, 2013 10:08
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Fun fact when ordering from live aquaria: Fish are shipped double bagged. This wouldn't be a problem, except the inner bag is open on one end and rubber banded closed on the other.
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Nov 7, 2013 21:34
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I think I got hit with the bug now. I'm pondering a little fluval ebi (or maybe the plant one) to go with my 16 gal tank. The reason is that the 16 isn't really friendly to shrimp due to the filtering method. This also goes back to my last post about live aquaria. I ordered in 10 more cpds to fill out the residents some more. What I got though was pretty small even from previous orders. These guys are closer to that of fry. I've already lost one that while being retrieved after falling over went over further and met its demise with the pump. I've enacted the old sponge dams I was using with the shrimp to keep them in the tank till they grow some more. If I had a little ebi, I could have tossed them in there and let them grow out without fear before introducing back.
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Nov 9, 2013 01:32
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Desert Bus posted:You are infected with MTS (More Tank Syndrome). Expect your tanks to multiply like MTS (Malaysian Trumpet Snails). I'm happy that I'm still looking at small tanks though. However, a 120 is very tempting in the future.
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Nov 9, 2013 03:25
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^^ yeah, my dwarf has been just fine, but I assumed they had the same personality of a beta going in so have kept it to one. He has been a cool guy in my 16 with an oto and some cpds.Xun posted:Is there a good getting started guide somewhere? I'd like to maybe start a 5gal tank with a betta and maaaayybee some shrimp? Would the beta eat the shrimp? I have no idea! Betas are finicky fish. One will have the temperament that anything without fins is food while the next one could care less if his/her home is infested to the point they are climbing over each other with shrimp and snails.
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Nov 10, 2013 05:54
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Eifert Posting posted:No advice for potassium that won't kill shrimp? I just dose brighty k daily which works with shrimp supposedly. No shrimp personally as this tank really doesn't work well for them. As for lighting timers, I went from a mechanical and digital setup (digital strip for co2/pump/heaters and mechanical for light) to an apex lite. I got tired of the two timers drifting around. Still working on setting the apex completely up, but the basics is running for now till I get the full programming setup to what I want.
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Nov 19, 2013 12:09
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It has been a few weeks. Had some new additions to the tank and the plants are filling out nicely. No trimming done yet as they just now are starting to hit a size where I might need to soon. As you can see, new additions are 10 more celestial pearl danios bringing me to a total of 12 CPDs. I think I mentioned them in my last post, but you can see them there. They are growing well with some starting to eat the regular pellet food. I'm dropping in some tetra bloodworm gel mix once a week just to help things out for those unable to grab the pellets. So far, there has been minimal signs of algae as you can see on the glass (none on the driftwood). I'm also not seeing cyanobacteria which is also a blessing. This photo was taken right after my water change earlier. Tests before that water change still showed 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, annnd 0 nitrate. So yeah, my fish are not pooping enough to keep up with the plants' demand. Because of that, I'm looking at heading out to the local shop (petsmart sadly) and picking up two otos later today since the one guy is a bit lonely right now. Future plans also include 10 dwarf cories which should help them out. Other addition is one that made more sense the more I thought of it. I'm now the proud owner of an apex light controller. Useful little gadget actually. My work schedule has me only able to really mess with the tank on the off days, so having something to help monitor while I'm at work is a good thing. Since it has a ph probe input, I'll probably get one. I'll use it as a check to hopefully reduce chances at end of tank gassing from happening.
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Nov 23, 2013 12:21
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Fusillade posted:Boo hoo, our green terror (well, more like a gold saum, Aequidens rivulatus) Nick Fury is dead. What a pretty fish! Shame about his demise was not just old age, but from a runaway heater. Would one of these help hold the probe in place perhaps? http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-MagClip-Magnetic-Suction/dp/B000R9A5DG/ I picked up two to hold the giant temp probe that came with my apex. It feels like there is a higher chance of me pulling the cord out of the probe than moving it otherwise.
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Nov 24, 2013 09:10
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Shakenbaker posted:Anyone here seen these new LED fixtures from Current USA? My local store had one on a tank today and I was really impressed with it. The thing has red, green, blue, and white LEDS and they can all be set independently of each other. The box said 6500k on it which I assume only refers to whites rather than the colors, so it should be good for plants depending on your setup. Hah, I've been eyeing this line from buildmyled. Mainly interested because I can tap in the apex to control dimming. However, I'm holding out since I just got a fugeray not 6 months ago. If I did grab one, it would most likely be the iwugami one. The dutch might look better in my tank with the red in the background, but the green just looks terrible in the comparison shot.
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Dec 8, 2013 00:42
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Shakenbaker posted:Yeah, I've got a Fugeray on one my 75, and I've been wondering if I should double up on them. I can churn out vals without much problem, but they do grow long in that tank. Was thinking about getting the Fugeray+ with the red LEDs but if the Current one does well on my shrimp tank I may just get a four footer for the 75 as well to run alongside it. Would still be less draw than a four light T5HO setup for that size, at least. Mostly the dimmable feature that my fuge doesn't have. I picked up an apex controller a short bit back to help handle the tank due to my work schedule (even more so now with christmas rush going on). The fuge is pulling enough light now for my tank that I have no problems with plant growth. When I am at home, it is both funny and sad watching my fish dart about when the lights first come on. So having a dimmable light that my apex can control would be ideal. I could extend the lighting time by an hour or so as I have it ramp up from 0% to 100% over an hour's time. Same in reverse as well.
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Dec 8, 2013 02:33
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Shakenbaker posted:Ahhhh, I can understand wanting to spare your fish some panic. Would maybe just a single cheap string of LEDs be enough to ease your mind? I don't know much about them but if you're just looking for something to make it easier on your fish that could be a cheaper option for you. Now that I think about it I don't know if they'd come or with with dimmers though. Hrm. The hard part is finding a freshwater light system that the apex controller can link to for dimming. Apex is generally used in a saltwater enviroment, so most of the lights supported are 10k+ ones designed for reef use. THey are also amazingly costly and look terrible if not hidden under a hood (what reef aquarium doesn't have a giant wooden canopy and matching stand). No worries though, it is just something I'm eyeing. I'd also have to spend money on the apex dimmer module as well. Not exactly a combo I'm going to sink now. Perhaps in a year or so I'll look into it. These leds are going strong for now and by then, newer leds might be around that provide higher par value without changing much in size.
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Dec 8, 2013 04:35
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SkaAndScreenplays posted:Thanks, It might be too much of an effort, but I saw some company showing how to make your own live rock using their products. It involved an epoxy resin with some filler. And then after making the shape, you would then paint it with some other product of theirs that was aquarium safe. However, that whole process for you wouldn't be free form as they did, you would be trying to make a mold to pour it into. Perhaps too much effort for a simple ladder. I dunno after that though, I've never dealt with diy work around an aquarium.
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Dec 11, 2013 12:31
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You guys and your fishy corpses. I keep counting one less every week or so in the general population. However, I never find their corpses till the one yesterday. I'm pretty sure my dwarf gourami has decided to take up the rear end in a top hat personality. No proof he is the killer, but he has taken a thing to nipping at my plants and giving fish a hard chase. No nipped fins either. I would have said the water parameters, but my god, its amazing and wierd. No ammonia, no nitrite, and no nitrate. Zero, nada, zilch. One obvious conclusion would be that I don't have enough fish considering the lack of by products. On the other, I had already hit 16 before the population started to die off. So far, it has been an oto and then about 3 or so cpds. Lesson to learn, stop putting bigger fish with smaller fish.
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Jan 6, 2014 09:45
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demonR6 posted:I personally like CPD's and if you can get them from a reputable source then go for it. I have seen some that are in really bad shape a couple of times and they never make it according to the LFS. Yeah, for small tanks, cpds are great. My tank has kind of stabilized right now with 6 cpds and a dwarf gourami. Still not completely sure if the gourami is to blame for the pop crash to this point or something else. Water parameters are amazing (every time I test, I have 0 nitrates and nitrites). I had 3 otos, but even with algae wafers and all the algae on the glass (and plants they weren't touching), they still died of starvation. That is another factor in making me think they weren't able to eat because the gourami was chasing them around. Now that I think about it, I should get a new water testing kit just to verify on those nitrate/nitrite levels. I can believe to some extent as the tank is pretty heavily planted, but at the same time, I've had this kit for a year now (api's master test kit).
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Feb 19, 2014 15:59
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Chichevache posted:I think I found it. Sabre tusk barracuda, aka Vampire Tetra. I don't think that is it. The mouth shape on the one linked there is similar to a hatchetfish where the mouth points straight up with the upper lip also serving as the upper line to the body. The mystery fish however, has some body mas above the upper lip of its mouth. And that doesn't include the pink/silver skin. Edit: Looked again, and there is some, but not the extent of our mystery fish. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWNPKYsqtII Nah, don't think its the same fish. Really need a full body shot though. JuffoWup fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Feb 20, 2014 |
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Feb 20, 2014 19:14
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For drip acclamation, I've been using this guy http://www.amazon.com/Doradon-FA18X-Aquarium-Acclimation-System/dp/B005YIVJSU/ Same process as demon's, but uses the bag they come in as the container. Also allows temperature adjustment to happen as well since the bag is left in the aquarium.
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Feb 26, 2014 08:46
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I want shrimp in my tank, it would help a lot with my tank. But what factors besides copper can kill them pretty readily? I just got another small batch of cpds in just to fill out an order for two more amano shrimp. The shrimp lasted all of about an hour in the tank after acclimation before dieing. One literally looked like he just died mid-step. I'm not treating with copper based products so that is off. However, that doesn't rule out it being in the tap (where would I get a kit to test for it?). The other option would be the gourami, but in a previous attempt, the lifespan was the same and I don't believe he was in there then. Speaking of the gourami, he finally left us. And since then, the CPDs have been out in the middle of the tank playing instead of darting out once in a while when he was there. So obviously was a stressor in the tank. Also, for those that are having problems with your water going tea colored from the driftwood's tannin, try some purigen in your filter. Not joking, that stuff works. Within 12 hours, mine was cleared up (normally it only was clear right after the water change I do weekly). I did overkill though in that I have two 100ml packets (one is rated for 100gal or so) because I have two filter areas in my tank.
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Feb 28, 2014 03:21
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demonR6 posted:Also are you acclimating the shrimp using a drip method? Yup. It is the kit I linked earlier. I use it on everything that enters the aquarium besides the plants. And they seem fine there too. Only dieing after entering the main tank. Wierd stuff. I'll have to see if I can find a copper test kit to see what results I get I guess.
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Feb 28, 2014 03:37
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demonR6 posted:So all your parameters other than checking for copper are fine then. You have a heater so we can rule out temperature being out of whack for the species you are adding? Correct. That is why I was wondering what else besides copper can do them in. I don't see scuds or other micros in the tank either, so we can count them out. I did find a copper test kit which will be here tomorrow so I can test that. And if that is the problem, seachem apparently makes a bead stuff similar to purigen that claims to trap copper and other hard metals. I just have a hard time believing it could be copper unless it is from the house's plumbing (house is 2 years old, new construction). We have a water softener system installed which does some filtering along with a charcoal filter before it goes to the house. JuffoWup fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Feb 28, 2014 |
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Feb 28, 2014 15:24
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Spikes32 posted:Those of you with Rimless tanks, what made you go for that? I'm going to get a 40G breeder sometime in the next few months and I'm currently pricing out between the regular breeder, a rimless tank, and an acrylic tank. I currently have an acrylic 55g tall that i'm going to get rid of, and the scratches are annoying, but the weight is a nice bonus. If i'm going to have a light resting on top of my tank anyway, will that diminish the look of the rimless if it's not hanging from a fixture? My main reason for going rimless is because I liked the cleaner look over the black plastic support banding of regular tanks. I also have my light mounted to the tank and it doesn't ruin the look at all. There are multiple designs nowadays with the use of led light fixtures. You can have the standard bar look or even puck lights that are mounted by arm brackets (which you can mount to the back of the tank continuing the more airy feel). And as you mentioned, the hanging/pendant fixture. That said, look around on your lighting too. For example, ADA offers up a stand to mount their hanging solar fixtures instead of suspending from a ceiling. And I'm sure people have diy-ed things like that as well.
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Mar 5, 2014 08:20
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Jekub posted:CO2 is on a timer with the lights, airpump is on the opposite schedule. Til this stabilizes, kill the CO2 and run the oxygen 24/7. You may want to move the airstone to be under the outflow to make it gets mixed in. Speaking of outflow, have it point at or slightly above the water line to get some surface agitation going.
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Mar 17, 2014 15:14
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Desert Bus posted:Help me FW Aquarium thread! I need a 30" light fixture that puts out at least 60 watts at 6700k. If it can accept a 21" Compact Fluorescent bulb with a straight 4 pin connecter so much the better, so my spare bulb doesn't go to waste. Coralife discontinued my fixture, and I have no idea what I'm doing in terms of trying to find new lighting except knowing how many watts I need and what color spectrum I want. The only ones I know of that I might rcommend for led fixtures is the fugeray series. Possibly the build my led stuff as well (not used them personally though, and only interested since they can link into my apex controller). However, BML only lists 6300 and 7k lightning options. They might be able to custom one for you though. The real fun is getting a calculator to convert your old understanding of watts per gallon to PAR (Photosynthetic Active Radiation). Are you enamored to a bar light though? Stepping out of those, there is kessel and some other brands that do either targetted or tablet style lights. You either hang these are use a mount that attaches to the tank.
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Mar 18, 2014 05:36
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