The Aquarium Thread: Get him an account he's ready for sea spam

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Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Chichevache posted:

I've just moved into my new place in Los Angeles. Got most of the equipment I'll need for my tank and tomorrow I plan on looking at aquariums here in the city, which I am not from. Any SoCal goons have a good LFS they would recommend? I'm in Granada Hills but I'm willing to trek for one.

durrneez posted:

I'm in the valley too! Neighboring fish nerds!

I've been to Exotic Life on Lassen and Topanga Canyon. It's okay. RCS are super overpriced and their plants are pretty meh but they have pretty lively bettas. They receive shipments on Tuesdays I think. Staff is pretty friendly.

I'm heard that A+ Tropical Fish in Temple City/Rosemead area (http://www.yelp.com/biz/a-tropical-fish-temple-city) has a great selection of livestock, including plants. My friend, who keeps really exotic fish and herps, loves this place. Haven't had a chance (or money) to go yet.

Aquarium City on Sherman Way has rumors of ick on their Yelp page so I've avoided that place. Also parking there kind of blows.

The PetCo on Nordhoff and Tampa, in the CostCo shopping center, has a pretty good plant selection and Eddy, who works the aquatic department, is awesome.

Yumi's on Chatsworth and Shoshone has snails in their plant tank and their livestock is pretty yuck. They have another shop in LA proper but i've never been. I used to buy anacharis from them all the time about a decade ago. I purchased from hornwort there recently and it grows like mad. Shrimp are hella overpriced here. $3.99 for a fire shrimp which is basically an RCS! c'mon!

Are you looking for something specific?

I work in Granada Hills.

I agree Exotic Life of Topanga is ok. They changed ownership a few years ago and it started looking better, I don't get out that way often though.

I agree that Yumis is gross, I don't go there. It's a dirty fish graveyard.

I love Aquarium City on Sherman, never had an issue there with anything. Parking can be stupid, but I've never had to search too bad. Their selection is huge. I've seen tanks being treated there before, but I wouldn't call it an epidemic (I've been going there for 5+ years). It's a little cramped and dark, but they have everything.

My friend just told me about Rainbow Pet on Woodman/Nordoff, I haven't been there but he says it's a nice clean little store with good prices.

Zaffy fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Jun 27, 2013

# ¿ Jun 27, 2013 14:38

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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 13:06

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Chichevache posted:

I checked out Exotic Life and found it to be acceptable. The guy behind the counter was kind of dickish, but it seemed to be in an awkward way and not intentional. The fish were alright but the tank selection was nonexistent. Their main focus seems to be reptiles and Arachnids though. I would go back, but only if I don't find better elsewhere.

And I checked out Fumi's on Chatsworth, which I believe is what you two are thinking of.
http://www.yelp.com/biz/fumis-tropical-fish-granada-hills
I actually liked this place. The owner was very pleasant and the store is dusty and tiny. However the fish all appeared incredibly healthy. Pretty much every tank had fish with large rounded bellies that were incredibly active. Exotic didn't have many dead fish, but plenty of them seemed slitly underfed. At Fumi's the tanks were covered in algae but the water quality looked great and he used sponge filters everywhere as well as some sumps. He also had the best prices on tanks, better than Petco even. I'm going to check more stores out, but so far Fumi's is a place I would recommend for stock and tanks.i didn't check the prices of other equipment.

The last time I was at Fumi's it was full of dead fish, and smelled of rot. There wasn't a tank that didn't have at least 1 fish floating belly up. Maybe I'll give it another shot, I drive by that place twice a day.

# ¿ Jun 28, 2013 14:07

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

56 Gallons. Is it me, or are those weird dimensions for a 56? Not to take anything away from it though, looks great.

Do you have a plan for it yet?

# ¿ Jul 2, 2013 01:48

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Chichevache posted:

I'm going back next week topics up the tank, so I'll look again. But I was shocked by the health of the fish I saw. I didn't notice a single dead or underfed fish, even the nicest stores I have been to have some with concave bellies. The shop is absolutely covered in dust and the algae on the tanks is pretty bad, but what I noticed was the healthy live stock. If you go in let me know what you see on that front. Because it did not look like the owner was just cleaning the dead out before I saw them, it looked like they were actually cared for.

I stopped by Fumi's yesterday, Only dead fish I saw was in the feeder tank. It was a bit dirty, but much much better than last time I was there. I'm taking them off my bad list.

I stopped at Exotic Life on Topanga today, it looks like they're finishing up a bit of a remodel. The reptile section was great. The fish side was a little light, but they had a ton of empty tanks that looked like they were getting ready to set up for display.

# ¿ Jul 12, 2013 05:40

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

QuasiQuack posted:

Hey guys, potential fish newbie here.

Lately I've been wondering about getting some fish since that's pretty much the only living things I can have in my apartment, but I don't know squat about this stuff. Never had fish, never knew anyone who had fish.
I admit that looks do matter to me, and I've been looking at stuff like the Fluval Chi and the Biorb Flow. Are these good looking but bad for the fish, or are they all around great?

Also wondering how many or how big the fish can be in these.

As far as the size of fish these things can keep, it's going to be fairly small. The Chi is a small, tall tank (for it's volume) tank so fish that don't swim much like Betta is what it's designed for.

The flow is a little bigger at 7.9gal, you could probably get some guppies in there, or a Betta and some neon tetras.

Do you measure gallons or liters in your part of the world?

Toussaint Louverture posted:

Beginners should get as large a tank as they can. If it's less than 15 gallons and your first tank it's a deathtrap.

I agree totally with this.

The key for keeping fish is consistency in the water. A larger volume of water is more resistant to changes in the water. A great place to start is the nitrogen cycle article posted in this fine OP.

# ¿ Jul 16, 2013 03:44

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

SynthOrange posted:

Yeah, if you intend on housing fish, bigger is better. That said, my first tank was only 5 gallons, but it only housed snails and shrimp which are fairly light on their environment and can do quite well in small tanks.

As for those tanks, they certainly look great, but I'm having trouble seeing them as being easy to maintain. The Fluval Chi has a small opening, and the Biorb looks like it has a substrate level filter, and both look like they take their own filter cartridges. My personal preference is to just go with a nice tank with separate filter and heater, rather than built in ones like on the above tanks. Built in parts make maintenance more fiddly and you cant really upgrade or tinker with them much.

That box on top of the chi is removable, so it's not that bad to clean. I agree with the rest of your post though. It does take proprietary filter cartridges and the filter mechanism isn't really changable while keeping the aesthetic of the thing.

# ¿ Jul 16, 2013 03:51

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374335069&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+test+kit

API test kit

# ¿ Jul 20, 2013 16:45

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

durrneez posted:

My Walstad has blue-green algae. I've read that a BGA infestation is due to low levels of nitrate... but I have an inch of miracle gro organic potting soil in it. I've removed a lot of it manually and with an H2O2:H2O 1:1 dip.

Light are on from 7 am - 11 am, then 2 - 6.
Bioload: 1 male betta, handful of MTS.
Plants: 1 stumpy wisteria (lol ), 3-4 stems of red ludwigia, some corkscrew vals, a 3"x3" carpet of Marsilea minuta, a little bit of guppy grass, some anacharis, hornwort.

All the new growth leads to me to believe that there's plenty of nitrates in the tank but not enough water movement. I performed a 30% water change and lowered the water level so the filter-without-any-filter-media-in-it makes more splashes on the surface. I still have the outflow buffer in place so my betta is happy.

Any suggestions as to how to get rid of the BGA are greatly appreciated.

How old is your light bulb? As they age they start putting out different wavelengths of light. BGA loves older bulbs in my experience.

# ¿ Jul 20, 2013 16:47

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Sostratos posted:

I'm getting ready to set up a 55 gallon tank and I was hoping for some stocking advice. I want to have a school of rummynose tetras, a bunch of cory cats, and a bushy nose pleco. I'd also like to have some sort of larger fish that can be kept solitary that has good color and will get along with all the smaller fish in the tank. It'll be fairly heavily planted, but most likely without anything that would need co2 injection for now. Anyone have suggestions for a good centerpiece fish?

Might consider a blue gourami. They have have nice color. They can get 3-4 inches. Even if it wanted to, it couldn't catch the rummynose and they won't give a crap about the cories or pleco as they're top dwellers.

Paradise fish is along those same lines. They are a little smaller.

# ¿ Jul 22, 2013 20:55

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

dirtycajun posted:

So two questions, how long am I going to be soaking this previously dry driftwood before it sinks (I only ever used rocks before, this poo poo is super buoyant!) and how long do I cycle a tank before thinking of adding the plant life?

I've never done driftwood so no help there. You can add plants as soon as you put water in the tank. Plant's don't need a cycle, in fact they can help kick-start the cycle.

# ¿ Jul 28, 2013 19:37

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Mr. Onslaught posted:

Does this look acceptable enough for a 10 year old that wants a betta?

http://www.amazon.com/Aquarius-Aq25...ords=Betta+tank

Has a filter and some cool looking lighting, so I figure he is good to go after adding the betta itself, some food, water conditioner, some fake plants, gravel or beads, and maybe a little ornament if there is room. I know it's not top of the line, but it seems nice looking and more humane than just tossing the betta in a small vase like I see most people do.

2.5 gal is the smallest I'd put a Betta in. Consider a real plant, something like Java fern should be readily available and grow in a tank like that. Definitely check out the link from durrneez, have your kid look at it too.

# ¿ Aug 8, 2013 01:05

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Zandorv posted:

I'm having issues with my Betta and feeding. Over the past couple of weeks I found that whenever I feed him, he begins to bloat and pinecone. At first I thought it was dropsy, but when I fasted him, he went back down and acted like his old happy self again. When I started feeding him again, he started bloating and pineconing again and seemed to have some swim bladder issues. I fasted him again and now he's gone back down and is acting just fine. I have no idea what this could be. Are these normal signs of some kind of chronic constipation issue or something? Should I just change his food, or is there something more serious going on?

Edit: I forgot to mention that he is not just pineconing around his belly where the food should be if he's constipated; he starts pineconing everywhere on his body like with dropsy.

That seems really strange. Have you recently changed foods? or have you noticed the food has changed? Is it a new container? I guess what I'm saying is,I'd change out the food to see if you can rule that out.

# ¿ Aug 20, 2013 04:36

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

demonR6 posted:

Some LED set ups are not ideal for growing plants. The Marineland single light for example are not good for it and you end up with an algae farm and dead plants. I don't know what constitutes a good or bad LED setup for growing plants so I cannot answer that intelligently but maybe we can look at that angle.

LEDs put out a different spectra of light , unfortunately unless the LEDs are designed for use on plants they will often be missing (or the peaks are shifted) some of the wavelengths that higher plants need. Algae tend to be a lot less picky about the wavelengths they absorb.

# ¿ Aug 22, 2013 01:13

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Git Mah Belt Son posted:

Looking for a tank mate for my 6 Zebra Danios. I only want to add one more fish. It's a 15 gallon tank so most huge fish are out.

I was thinking maybe a sword tail? Or maybe a betta? Though I've read zebra danios can sometimes stress bettas. Any ideas? I just want something with color. I love my zebras but they're sort of dull looking.

This is the current setup, not that it matters much, but it'll give you an idea of hiding places.

German Blue Ram, or Bolivian Ram. They are cichlids, but the stay smaller than 'traditional' cichlids. I've kept them in community tanks a long time without problems.

Paradise fish/Paradise Gourami. They are not compatible with Betta, so it's one or the other with them.

Along the lines of sword tail, you could also look at killifish. They tend to have nice colors.

# ¿ Sep 2, 2013 17:48

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Picture doesn't really help. Check these out.

http://www.planetinverts.com/what_is_that_bug_in_my_aquarium.html

http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum/showthread.php/34333-Bugs-you-might-encounter-in-your-aquarium

# ¿ Sep 9, 2013 02:17

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

deadlypie posted:

He's mostly ignoring them but I've seen him eat some.

The story has a happy ending.

Sounds like they are Daphnia or Copepods. Nothing to worry about. Keep an eye on the fish just to make sure nothing is attaching themselves.

# ¿ Sep 9, 2013 02:31

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

You can pick up a battery powered air pump at most fishing/tackle shops if you can't find one at your pet store.

# ¿ Sep 23, 2013 02:22

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Play sand shouldn't change your pH at all. Pool filter sand is the same thing but usually a smaller grain. People recommend it because it's the same stuff at a fraction of the price.

# ¿ Oct 19, 2013 22:25

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Tannins won't hurt the fish. As far as salt content, I'd highly doubt it's an issue after a few hours of boiling. You could always taste the water.

# ¿ Oct 30, 2013 04:37

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Gourami are territorial and aggressive other anabantids (Betta, other Gouramis), but in my experience they aren't aggressive towards other kinds of fish. Dwarf Gourami are an inbred special sort anyway, they should be just fine in a community tank as long as you don't add too many of them. 1 would be great.

# ¿ Nov 10, 2013 05:45

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Cyn Greythorne posted:

In order to effect more efficient water changes in a heavily planted tank, could I drill through the side of the tank and install a valve to more efficiently drain water to a desired level?

And no, I don't yet have an aquarium; I am still in the planning stages.

You 'could' do that, but it sounds like a lot more trouble than it's worth. Water changes aren't that huge of a deal. What is your concern about them?

# ¿ Nov 12, 2013 15:15

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

A standard 15gal and a 20 high (what most store carry) have the same foot print. Unless height in an issue as well.

It's true, more volume is easier because it's less susceptible to water quality swings. Specifically pH, ammonia and nitrite. Read the first post in this thread and do your best to understand the cycle process. Ask questions if you have any.

What kinds of fish do you want?

# ¿ Dec 17, 2013 00:45

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

When it comes to schooling fish, in my opinion, the minimum is 6. More is better. They should be the same species for maximum comfort.

I've got a tank with Cardinal Tetras, Harlequin Rasboras. The tetras and Rasboras really contrast nicely, they will shoal with each other, but if I make a sudden noise or bang something on the counter they will segregate into their respective groups. Rasboras are not tetras of course.

Platys are good hardy fish, they come in a variety of colors. They do make babies readily. Have a plan for the babies though. otherwise you'll find yourself with a tank full of them and no room for anything else. Same thing with Guppies or Endlers. Platys and Guppies will cannibalize the young, Endlers generally won't. You won't likely find Endlers unless you're looking for them specifically though.

# ¿ Dec 17, 2013 08:05

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Dantu posted:

Neon tetras are pretty hardy once they get acclimated. Since they are tiny you can get a nice sized school, even in smaller tanks. Bonus points for you is I've never heard of them jumping out of tanks. Whatever you do, don't get hatchet fish. They managed to jump out of my covered tank through a pretty small opening, those poor, crazy bastards.

I'm a fan of mixing Harlequin Rasboras with Neon Tetras.

# ¿ Feb 19, 2014 02:58

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Looks like a German Blue Ram, possibly Bolivian. I've kept them in community set ups with no issue ever.

# ¿ Mar 16, 2014 23:45

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

unprofessional posted:

Just tested my little tank before doing a water change, after two days without a change.

pH - 8.8
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 0

After water change - pH - 6.6

I've had two danios jump tank, and am keeping the water level about an inch and a half below the top, now. Anything I can do on weekends to limit the huge pH swing? This is an office tank.

First of all, that pH swing is crazy, I'm surprised fish aren't dying from it. Also, Having Nitrates at 0 before a water change is strange. Makes me think the test kit is suspect. As far as keeping pH stable you need some kind of buffering agent.

Sonic H posted:

Question for the experts:

It's likely I'll need to move house very soon and I have a smaller 54 l quarantine tank and a large 240 l main tank. The main tank has about 70 fish in of varying sizes and types. The question is, is it best to take them out and put them into smaller containers with similar other fish (e.g. put my Gouramis together, my tetras together etc.) or to bundle them all into one container?

There's no seriously aggressive finsh in there, but as they have lots of room right now, I don't want to antagonise them unnecessarily and cause issues.

I think just for ease of moving I'd split them into smaller containers. How long do you expect them to be in transit?

# ¿ Mar 31, 2014 14:29

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Humboldt Squid posted:

So, do those bottles of 'bacteria starter' actually work? Some of them claim that you can add fish instantly after treating the water with it but I'm pretty incredulous.

Also I'm a little bit horrified that they sell cachama (pacu) as aquarium fish after seeing fully grown ones all over the place in Venezuela (they can get gigantic! Good eating when they're dinner-plate sized though).

The general consensus that I've heard is 'bacteria starter' is waste of money. If you want to immediately stock a FW tank the only thing I'd say, tentatively, is to lightly stock a planted tank.

# ¿ Apr 30, 2014 01:31

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

SniperWoreConverse posted:

Hey I'm going to cross post this from the saltwater thread, because even though it's a salt aquarium, mollies are generally considered freshwater.

I don't see Ich in those pictures. Possibly a fungus, but it's really hard to tell.

edit: as far as them being is saltwater, I'd keep them in saltwater to treat whatever it is they have. The switch from salt to fresh (and then back to fresh) can stress the fish necessarily.

Zaffy fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Jul 20, 2014

# ¿ Jul 20, 2014 02:23

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

SniperWoreConverse posted:

yeah it's hard as hell to get a decent pic of what's going on. Basically they have this white spot where the scales are seemingly coming off. Sometimes I catch them rubbing their bodies on the sand, but I always thought it was because one happened to get zapped by an anemone (I saw one bump into a tentacle and do the same thing). Then I heard it was symptomatic behavior -- they get itchy.

A few weeks ago i noticed a lot of white particles floating in the water column. I assumed it was some kind of plankton or something, because there was a boom in the amount of tiny copepods a little bit before that. Now I'm worried it was a ton of parasites and I just let it roll like it was a good thing.

I'll try and get some better pics tomorrow.

The white particles in the water certainly weren't Ich. You can't see them.

# ¿ Jul 21, 2014 19:09

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

IM_DA_DECIDER posted:

Around 20 days, and the cycle just completed so there was no starvation period as far as I can tell. Also I have a lot of plants in there.

If you're just looking to maintain you don't need a full 4ppm of ammonia, But with nitrite being off the charts it's likely you're not fully cycled yet anyway.

# ¿ Jul 23, 2014 04:18

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

IM_DA_DECIDER posted:

I added 7 Harlequin Rasboras to my planted 10gallon, and now I'm sort of worried about my decision since I've read a couple people claiming that's too small for this species. They're eating well, growing, and one healed his tail fin that was a bit nipped when I got him. They do fight a lot when the lights go on in the morning, but calm down after I put some food in. All of them are eating and none have any visible injuries.

Are they just reestablishing their pecking order every morning or am I keeping them in a too small tank that makes them angry?

I wouldn't be worried about it as long as you're able to keep the water clean.

Harlequins will establish a pecking order within their group. It sounds like what you're seeing is normal in my experience. I wouldn't keep fewer than 6 of them together in any tank personally. My opinion is that 7 in a 10gal is fine.

Are their other fish in the tank as well?

# ¿ Aug 15, 2014 03:29

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

SniperWoreConverse posted:

It won't seal against old silicone, once that poo poo cures it can't be uncured even if you dump that vinegar smelling solvent on there. So the bond won't work. Gotta scrape it all man.

Anybody ever try using hot glue to seal an aquarium?

I'm sure someone has tried, people make horrible messes all the time.

# ¿ Aug 15, 2014 04:48

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

I don't see any Ich in that picture.

# ¿ Nov 20, 2014 02:46

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

DeadlyMuffin posted:

I have a 10g tank with Endlers. I absolutely love the fish, but I have no idea what to do with all the babies.

I've given them away to all my friends who will take them, and I even converted some to salt water for my reef tank (it worked, but that tank has way too much current and they were eventually eaten by coral).

I've thought about introducing a predator, but it's a small and extremely heavily planted tank so I'm not sure what would fit.

I hate to start culling them, but I'm getting to that point. Anybody have any suggestions?

(If you're in the SF bay area and want Endlers, hit me up!)

Add a betta, it will cut down on the babies a lot.

# ¿ Oct 5, 2018 14:47

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

BONGHITZ posted:

Fish and maybe some plants

Water!

# ¿ Jan 18, 2019 04:39

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Otocinclus and Siamese Algae Eater (SAE) are often mistaken for each other. If you're out to buy otos, make sure you check that they have sucker mouths before you bring them home. SAE will eat shrimp/fish eggs, Otocinclus shouldn't.

That tank should be fine for some oto's but you may need to supplement their diet if there isn't enough algae for them.

edit: got the names mixed up.

Zaffy fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jan 22, 2019

# ¿ Jan 22, 2019 01:51

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Stoca Zola posted:

Question! Do you notice some kind of pointy anatomical feature in the vent area of your otos? I saw it on one of mine and thought there was a tapeworm, but then googling it looks like a lot of otos have the same feature. I don't know if its like a breeding tube or what, there simply aren't enough fish bum pictures of otos online of the two I saw, one person from 6 years ago was wondering if it was a worm and got no answer, and the other was posted without comment as if nothing was wrong. Any thoughts? I haven't kept them for long enough to have got enough decent looks at them on the glass to know.

Otocinclus have dorsal and pectoral spines. Is this maybe what you're seeing? The anal fin can have a darker edge to it as well.

Zaffy fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Jan 26, 2019

# ¿ Jan 26, 2019 18:21

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Doc Fission posted:

Still new to this hobby. Is an ammonia level of .25 ppm something to worry about? I'm using the API test kit.

Also, my pH tests at 6.6. I currently have the one betta and a nerite snail in a 2.6 gallon tank. It seems a little bit acidic for them - is this something I should worry about as well? And what should I do if both of these readings are problematic? Thanks

Ammonia should be undetectable (0 on your test kit). Do frequent water changes to keep it from getting too high and burning the betta's gills. Add a plant, Java fern is decent looking and durable.

pH is fine for the betta, but the snail would like a little higher.

# ¿ Mar 9, 2019 18:33

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

mango sentinel posted:

Aqueon tanks are Fine.

Black rims, messy seams, and lid sold separately, but otherwise perfectly serviceable. The $1 per gallon only runs on the 10, 20, 20 long, and 29 gallon. I think 40 breeders, 55, and 75 are half off, which is still a good price. If I had room I'd definitely pick up a 29g or a 40 breeder.

I just got home from a petco, the 75gal was full price. 40, and 55 were half price.

# ¿ Mar 12, 2019 02:01

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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 13:06

Zaffy: Sep 15, 2003

Phi230 posted:

I woke up this morning and nitrites all but disappeared

I'm close to done with cycling?

4 days ago you were dosing 4ppm ammonia. Now that nitrite has started being metabolized you can reduce the ammonia dose to 2 or 3ppm, and keep going until nitrite is disappearing like ammonia had been. Ammonia should remain undetectable through this process. You've still got some time to go though.

You temp 24.5C and pH of 8 are fine.

Once nitrite is being metabolized fully (undetectable the next day after ammonia dose) you can give a 4ppm dose of ammonia to test the cycle. If the tank clears that 4ppm does, then you are good to go.

# ¿ Mar 15, 2019 03:19

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