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Is there much variation between ceramic honing rods? Like, I can get a Kyocera one for $10 or a Messermeister for $50. Which would be better? (And I'm just assuming I want ceramic for my Tojiro Gyuuto (carbon steel)?) Cool, thanks again Radish! X13Fen fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Apr 2, 2015 |
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Apr 2, 2015 03:50
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Uber Kosh posted:Is there much variation between ceramic honing rods? Like, I can get a Kyocera one for :tenbux: or a Messermeister for $50. Which would be better? Yeah, you want a ceramic for any Tojiro, but they are all pretty much the same so get whatever one you want.
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Apr 2, 2015 04:04
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I currently have a Victorinox chef's with a eye to maybe getting a Tojiro DP Gyoto later. Would a 1000/3000 combination stone be OK for maintenance? Or a ceramic rod? Or both even?
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Apr 3, 2015 11:36
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dwayne_dibbley posted:I currently have a Victorinox chef's with a eye to maybe getting a Tojiro DP Gyoto later. Either the stone or both the stone and the rod would be fine. You can use the rod or the stone for touch-ups and the stone for the occasional full sharpening. I would recommend a low grit stone, like 200-500 grit, for faster sharpening, but a 1k one will work, just not very quickly.
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Apr 3, 2015 13:57
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Ceramic rods are still for sharpening, get a polished steel rod. No abrasive whatsoever.
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Apr 4, 2015 01:42
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Steel rods will dull japanese knives. Gotta have a ceramic rod.
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Apr 4, 2015 01:54
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Steel rods will dull japanese knives. Gotta have a ceramic rod. That makes no sense, it's not a ridged steel rod, it's a polished surface.
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Apr 4, 2015 02:14
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And the steel will be softer than the knife, doing nothing more than dulling it further.
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Apr 4, 2015 02:40
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I'm not sure it matters, as long as the edge is getting realigned. You can even hone a knife on a razor strop like barbers use.
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Apr 4, 2015 07:42
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Should something like the DuoSharp also not be used on Japanese knives? (I haven't, don't worry.)
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Apr 4, 2015 14:30
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guppy posted:Should something like the DuoSharp also not be used on Japanese knives? (I haven't, don't worry.) There is no reason why you can't, it's just that even the finest DuoSharp is fairly low grit as far as knife sharpening goes. Most people prefer to put a somewhat finer edge on their knives so that the edge lasts longer. It's also easier to make mistakes or screw up a knife with DMT stuff because diamond eats metal so quickly.
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Apr 4, 2015 16:25
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:And the steel will be softer than the knife, doing nothing more than dulling it further.  Yall people needs some edumacatin' on them there pointy tools. If you don't want to read the whole megapost, just use this link regarding the correct sharpening process.
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Apr 4, 2015 22:53
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ItKeldoclock posted:
we don't use the S word in these hear parts, it's a question of honing that that Hanzo steel.
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Apr 5, 2015 01:44
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Keldoclock posted:
If I take my Tojiro ITK, and run it against a standard smooth steel, it will dull. It will not hone the edge.
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Apr 5, 2015 03:48
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Sounds like you're using an overly aggressive angle when you use a steel then.
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Apr 5, 2015 08:46
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Nope, use the same angle I sharpen at. Between the two, I much prefer a ceramic rod, and so do most of the people over at ck2g. Most of the knife manufacturers also recommend ceramic.
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Apr 5, 2015 12:12
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If I want to break down chickens, but don't do any other serious work, do I need a boning knife or will a chef's/petty knife be fine? Seems like a petty knife would be perfect as long as I don't accidentally hit a bone at warp speed.
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Apr 5, 2015 17:01
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guppy posted:If I want to break down chickens, but don't do any other serious work, do I need a boning knife or will a chef's/petty knife be fine? Seems like a petty knife would be perfect as long as I don't accidentally hit a bone at warp speed. A petty can work great as a boning knife for chickens, a chef's knife or gyuto can work well too but it can be a little more awkward because of the length. Really, the specialized knives are mostly useful for professionals who are going to be deboning like 40 chickens at a time and want to gain a little efficiency over a more general purpose knife like a petty.
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Apr 5, 2015 17:09
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Suspect Bucket posted:I might get to do some hog butchery tomorrow. THe sad thing is, it might be our favorite hog, Russell, who loves ear scratches and is the biggest sweetheart. Having only ever had dogs and cats for pets, I have to ask if it's a difficult thing to slaughter a creature with whom you've developed a relationship. Is it?
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Apr 5, 2015 22:57
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Glockamole posted:Having only ever had dogs and cats for pets, I have to ask if it's a difficult thing to slaughter a creature with whom you've developed a relationship. Is it? Well, I did not end up being there, as I was feeling sick (bad cold last week) and it's not good to work with carcasses when immunocompromised. However, it had been planned to keep Russell, and he was treated a bit like a pet. He was super sweet and loved people. I did not actually know Russell that well, so the decision to process him was not that hard on me. My boss though was a little heartbroken. She raised him from a piglett, and was super fond of his sire, who had been one of her first pigs. But we're cutting down on the pig operations at the farm, and it's really difficult to find a new home for a 700lb intact boar. Someone else would buy him for pennies on the pound, and probably do a worse job of it then we would. Processing him ourselves meant there was no stress for him. He was dead before he knew it, and my boss had lots of family and friends there to help her through the process. Also, there are different ways to relate to and love an animal. A farmer still loves his food animals, but it's a different kind of love. You love them for the meat and prosperity they will bring your family, and the memories you'll have every time you take a bit out for dinner, or whenever you work with the meat. It's a bit morbid, but it's probably the better, more responsible way to view meat. The sanitized grocery store polystyrene and plastic meat of today has really disconnected humans from what food really is. Meat is life. Meat is love. Meat is WORK. So yes. It's difficult to do. It's going to be hard to do every time you kill an animal you know. But if it ever stops being hard, you should maybe re-evaluate your reasons for working with animals.
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Apr 6, 2015 01:50
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Suspect Bucket posted:Well, I did not end up being there, as I was feeling sick (bad cold last week) and it's not good to work with carcasses when immunocompromised. However, it had been planned to keep Russell, and he was treated a bit like a pet. He was super sweet and loved people. This was so informative it was moving. Thank you.
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Apr 6, 2015 04:06
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Glockamole posted:This was so informative it was moving. Thank you. Aw, you're welcome. I'm always glad to answer farm questions. I should probably start my own food animal thread, and stop making GBS threads up the knife thread though.
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Apr 6, 2015 21:14
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Honestly the knife thread is less likely to go full hugbox D&D bullshit than opening a whole new thread. What kind of knives do you use to process a whole hog? Preservation techniques?
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Apr 6, 2015 21:53
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Yeah it's not like it's a busy thread or anything. I too would be interested to know what knives you use for something like that.
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Apr 6, 2015 22:23
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bloody ghost titty posted:What kind of knives do you use to process a whole hog? Preservation techniques? I've done a few with a gokujo and honkatsu. Gokujo for trimming along bone, honkatsu for wedging between joints. A hook is a must, and will make your life so much easier.
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Apr 6, 2015 22:52
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Re: Victorinox, I was wondering if a ceramic rod would be a good idea for those knives. Would it be decent enough to keep it sharp?
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Apr 7, 2015 03:26
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Transmetropolitan posted:Re: Victorinox, I was wondering if a ceramic rod would be a good idea for those knives. Would it be decent enough to keep it sharp? That's the combo I have and it seems fine.
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Apr 7, 2015 03:44
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Transmetropolitan posted:Re: Victorinox, I was wondering if a ceramic rod would be a good idea for those knives. Would it be decent enough to keep it sharp? A ceramic will work fine on the Victorinox knives, it will remove more metal but the amount is pretty small in the first place so I wouldn't worry about it too much.
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Apr 7, 2015 04:18
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bloody ghost titty posted:Honestly the knife thread is less likely to go full hugbox D&D bullshit than opening a whole new thread. Joke's on them, the hugbox is used in industrial slaughter. It's how they get them to hold dtill before getting them with the captive bolt stunner. A cowboy style buck knife and then a smaller paring knife are the tools of choice. You want to have a rounded slicing edge on the end to bring the pressure down and wiggle when breaking the carcass down. Paring knife is used as a finer boning knife. A meat hook is nice to have to wrangle the meat and keep your fingers safe. Preservation is keeping the meat clean and cold. We're not doing any sausage right now. The weapon of choice when processing chicken is a good pair of kitchen shears. Suspect Bucket fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Apr 7, 2015 |
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Apr 7, 2015 17:53
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Good god, another price bump to the small CCK.
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Apr 13, 2015 15:14
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I got mine when it was $60, but at $70 -- for that matter, even at the previous price -- I have to wonder: Is the Dexter-Russell vision (currently $25ish at Amazon) a better recommendation to people considering picking up a Chinese chef's knife?
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Apr 13, 2015 16:52
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guppy posted:I got mine when it was $60, but at $70 -- for that matter, even at the previous price -- I have to wonder: Is the Dexter-Russell vision (currently $25ish at Amazon) a better recommendation to people considering picking up a Chinese chef's knife? Not sure you can do this with the Dexter-Russel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOumJ0B1Cj8 And have the edge last.
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Apr 13, 2015 17:06
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Anyone want to play a knife mystery game? I'm cat sitting for my parents right now and found an 8" chefs knife that was much unloved. It's a "Barclay Forge" knife, and I've never heard of them. It's hollow ground, full tang, 3 rivet western style wood handle. The suprising thing is it's made in Japan and still cuts well despite being treated badly for over 30 years and never sharpened (probably hardly used). The thickness of the top of the steel is much thinner than standard western chefs knives - which are more of a chopping axe IMO -, it's thin like japanese knives (or in other words, just a little thicker than stamped victorinox blades) A quick google shows this knife is a mystery to many, a couple of people saying how good the steel is when they've come across one and sharpened it. A couple of other people say that they were the original owner and still using them and it's the best knife they've owned. Seems grocery stores sold them cheap in the USA if you spent $x on shopping, makes sense my parents got theirs the same way in Australia as they've never spent much on knives (most are no name or wiltshire brand at best and they on have this one knife). So did some brand called Barclay Forge introduce the first Japanese knives to western homes via some coupon deal some time in the late 1970s/early1980s and with that, just close up shop and disappear? E: I've got no camera here, but here's an ebay listing of the same knife http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CHEF-Knife-Kitchen-Knife-BARCLAY-FORGE-8-Blade-Stainless-Steel-Japan-/181542496652 Fo3 fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Apr 15, 2015 |
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Apr 15, 2015 13:52
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Thanks for the Victorinox recommendation. Got a 10" fibrox chef's knife. It's the sharpest knife I have ever used. Probably should have gone with the 8" though. It's a bit longer than I'm used to. I thought the 10" would be closest to what I'm used to, it must have been a 9" or something.
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May 16, 2015 02:37
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Decent knife, but you'll need a hone for it if you haven't got one, it's pretty soft steel. I've got the 10" victorinox, (also the 7" flexi and straight boning knives) Other chef's knives are German or Japanese forged 8" and 7" I prefer smaller knives too, mainly because my small bench and small end grain block. But the 10" is handy for pumpkin, cabbage and celery even if it's not your preferred size.
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May 16, 2015 14:51
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 Tojiro ITK petty 150mm. I just can't stop buying knives!
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May 16, 2015 21:50
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That is one sexy knife.
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May 16, 2015 21:51
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I finally used the whetstone I purchased about 6 months ago (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00200L90I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on my paring and chef's knife and don't really think I'm doing it right. I used a 1/4" binder clip to set the angle, went back and forth repeatedly where the draw stroke was harder than the other, but never really found it creating a burr. I tried doing it twice, probably 20-30 strokes on the coarse/fine sides and couldn't do any of the tests I'd seen in youtube videos - chopping into piece of paper, cutting tomato without it moving, etc. Is my knife just real dull and I need to go at it longer? The burr thing I read about is what I'm really not understanding or getting a result with.
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May 18, 2015 01:13
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mastershakeman posted:I finally used the whetstone I purchased about 6 months ago (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00200L90I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on my paring and chef's knife and don't really think I'm doing it right. I used a 1/4" binder clip to set the angle, went back and forth repeatedly where the draw stroke was harder than the other, but never really found it creating a burr. I tried doing it twice, probably 20-30 strokes on the coarse/fine sides and couldn't do any of the tests I'd seen in youtube videos - chopping into piece of paper, cutting tomato without it moving, etc. Is my knife just real dull and I need to go at it longer? The burr thing I read about is what I'm really not understanding or getting a result with. You are using water on the stone right? You just have to keep rubbing away until a burr is formed, it can take quite a while to form sometimes and it will depend on the steel and the stone being used, some steels take a ton of work to form a burr and some are very quick, stones vary in the same way so if you have a slow steel and a slow stone for that steel it can take a long time to get a burr to form. To check if there is a burr just stroke your fingers on the face of the blade towards the edge on the opposite side from the one you were rubbing, if there is a burr you will feel a distinctive scratchiness as your fingers pass over the edge. Once a burr is formed switch to the other side and rub until a burr forms again and then just go back and forth spending less and less time on each side until you are only doing 2-3 strokes per side, then draw the edge of the knife through something like a cork(natural or synthetic rubber does not matter) to remove any wire edge that might have formed, I like to give it some edge trailing strokes after that and then try testing it on a piece of newspaper or something, it should cut through smoothly if you did everything right.
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May 18, 2015 01:48
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My new knife arrived today. It's a tadafusa nashiji 210mm carbon steel gyuto. Nice and sharp out of the box, it flew through an onion. I'll probably give it a couples passes through a 3000 grit though. Steel looks a bit bluer than it is because of lighting. 
hoshkwon fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 00:54
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