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So I'm thinking about replacing my crappy Ikea Santoku and OXO 4" parring knife with some Tojiro DP knives plus a decent steel and sharpening setup. I'm trying to decide between the 170mm Santoku or 240mm Gyuto. I know that the Gyuto would be better for large cuts of meat but I don't work with those too often, I also know it would be better for mincing garlic and herbs because of the larger curve. However I'm pretty used to the Santoku shape and I feel like the length of the Gyuto might be awkward to get used to, any opinions? P.S. This is just for home cooking, I am not a professional or anything.
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Oct 22, 2014 12:16
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Sounds like you already know you want the santoku. Get what you want, not what someone else would prefer. Well, I've never really used a chef's knife style knife much so I'm pretty tempted to experiment with something new. BTW, how are the cheap bladeguards from chefknivestogo?
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Oct 22, 2014 13:09
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How do ya'll feel about the Richmond Artifex AEB-L knives vs the Tojiro DP line? The Tojiros have nicer aesthetics to me but I'm more concerned about performance, usability and durability.
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Oct 24, 2014 06:30
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Present posted:I can't find this online. Can I get a link please? I believe this is it. BTW, I'm debating between this and a Tojiro DP 210mm, is the Shun actually better and worth the $20 premium since it's so cheap right now? AVeryLargeRadish fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Nov 4, 2014 |
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Nov 4, 2014 22:50
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Present posted:^ There was a post about a knife for $75 off: Moridin920 posted:If it's the one for $75 off I'm looking at I'd snap it up. And yeah, Tojiros use the same VG-10 steel, but there can be build quality and design differences and I don't know if the Tojiro comes with the lifetime warranty of the Shun.
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Nov 5, 2014 01:39
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How brittle is VG-10 steel? I came across a video comparing various chef knives, one of the ones he talked about was a Tojiro DP and he claimed that the edge got chipped on a stray grain of salt on his cutting board. Now I'm not planning on trying to chop through bone or hack up frozen meat but I don't want something so finicky that it chips on a stray grain of salt, so is that BS or does that sort of thing happen?
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Nov 8, 2014 09:07
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guppy posted:A friend of mine sent me a CCK small cleaver as an early birthday present! Yes, it's carbon. You only need to oil it if your storing it for a good while or if you live somewhere pretty humid. Other than that just wash and dry it throughly after use and let it build a patina. Dunno about angles.
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Nov 15, 2014 21:45
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This thing is carbon, right? I've never owned a carbon knife. I wash and hand dry like anything else and then... rub mineral oil into it? Is that right? Do I hone this thing on the same ~20 degree angle as Western knives?
Leroy Diplowski posted:My wife is getting me a decent chef's knife for my birthday because I gave away my Victorinox to a close friend and I'm getting sick of my TJ maxx special caphalon. This will be strictly for home use. That looks like a decent knife, if you read the first review it gives a lot of detail and apparently these are roughly equivalent of the Tojiro DP just with a lot more belly and probably a little less work put into fit and finish. Same VG-10 steel too.
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Nov 16, 2014 20:09
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deimos posted:Isn't 200mm kinda short for a chef's knife? Yes, but they make gyutos in 180mm, 210mm, 240mm and 270mm, even larger sometimes. Plenty of gyutos are slightly under or over sized because many of them are still hand forged. 200mm is on the small side but not all that unusual.
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Nov 16, 2014 21:42
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Leroy Diplowski posted:lol oops There are options out there with a lot of belly, but they would be well over your price range unfortunately. You should look into getting a ceramic honing rod along and/or some waterstones and learning how to sharpen it.
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Nov 17, 2014 03:13
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:God no, learn how to use a stone. Drag through sharpeners are just terrible for knives because they literally shear off steel as opposed to shaving/rubbing it away like a traditional stone. Yeah, either this or get one of the edgepro knock-offs and maybe some better stones for it later on.
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Nov 17, 2014 05:37
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Leroy Diplowski posted:I really like the western deba, but it's a little pricy, and I'm kinda interested in how a lighter knife feels. Anyhow I ordered the gyutou and I'm really excited because it will be worlds better than what I was bludgeoning onions with. Uhhh, are you dismantling large fish or something? Because debas are thick as hell and built for hacking through fish bone and such, not for murdering vegetables.
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Nov 17, 2014 05:44
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CrazyLittle posted:An edgepro (or knockoff) is still just a way to hold a stone at a proper angle. Any sharpener, stone, or hone is worthless if you never use it. I agree with your points above, but that doesn't change the fact that a tool never used is as useful as none at all, and dull knives are a safety concern. Yeah, that is true, but the edgepro and it's imitators are not difficult to use at all. Waterstones have a learning curve, but again, it's not the most difficult thing to learn and there are tools like this that make sharpening on stones very easy. If you use a decent honing rod you can go for a month or more between full sharpening depending on the knife. Once you have used a knife sharpened on stones you never want to go back, even a lovely knife when decently sharpened is a joy to work with. I used dull knives for the longest time and actually sharpening my cruddy knives made chopping vegetables change from a chore to a joy. Oh, and I've used roll sharpeners before and they did roughly jack and poo poo for my knives, the knives may have been very marginally sharper but they still squashed tomatoes and sawed through onions, just not a good value.
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Nov 17, 2014 18:42
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gwrtheyrn posted:I'm looking at getting a Tojiro ITK gyuto and a DP paring knife along with a pair of sharpening stones. Will I need a hone or anything else as well? A hone like the Idahone is good to refresh your edge between sharpenings but it's not absolutely necessary, just really, really convenient. Just so you know, the ITK knives cladding is crazy reactive, so be very attentive with your upkeep.
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Nov 26, 2014 07:23
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gwrtheyrn posted:How bad is it actually? I've read anywhere between "fine as long as you do normal maintenance" to "will start rusting within minutes after you start using it unless you wipe it every 30 seconds." Even if it does start rusting within a few minutes as long as you clean the rust off it will eventually develop a protective patina. You might want to try creating a patina on purpose, yellow mustard plus some water to thin it out apparently works well. I stick to stainless clad and fully stainless knives, so all of this is second hand, you might want to ask on the CKTG forums, lots of people with first hand experience there.
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Nov 26, 2014 08:29
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gwrtheyrn posted:It sounds like the itk's cladding might be more effort than I care for, so on second thought how about : Both of those are great choices. The edge will obviously be reactive but not nearly as reactive as the cladding on the ITKs, as long as you wipe it after use you should be fine. If you live near the sea and get a lot of wet, salty air or in someplace really humid in general you might want to put a little mineral oil on them if you are storing them for a while, but for the most part they will be fine with nothing more than a quick wash and dry after use. Since they are cheaper knives the fit & finish might be a little rough and you might want to get some sandpaper and relieve the edges of the spine and choil to make the knives more comfortable to use.
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Nov 26, 2014 23:55
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Present posted:The Shun Premier knives are gorgeous. Is there any particular reason you want the Shuns? Aesthetics or performance?
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Nov 27, 2014 08:16
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Present posted:Mostly aesthetics. If they had a wooden octagon handle they'd be perfect. Unfortunately there are not many, generally you don't see really nice aesthetics until the higher price ranges, instead the extra money spent at the low end gives you better performance and the nicer aesthetics filter in as performance and price increase past the $200+ range. The Shuns reverse that to some extent, emphasizing aesthetics as price increases but not increasing much in performance. There is the Takamura VG-10 Nashiji which I find rather pretty and is a better knife overall than the Shun for a bit less. There is also the Sukenari Ginsan it has a different aesthetic but I also find it to be really nice looking, the video really shows off how nice it looks better than the stills do. It is a much better knife than the Shun and about the same price. Of course if you really want beauty and performance you pay for it.
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Nov 27, 2014 09:07
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Glockamole posted:Does such a creature as a santoku in the area of 150mm exist? My girlfriend wants something relatively short for kitchen chores, but with a wide blade. Most of the santoku patterns I see are 185mm and all of the shorter petty knives aren't especially wide. For reference, she loved the Shun Pure Komachi 2 santoku we had before I gave it away. I was hoping for something a bit more stout though. There are plenty in 160mm-165mm range which is nearly as short, how much were you looking to spend?
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Nov 27, 2014 16:12
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Glockamole posted:Inside of $80 or whatever the metric equivalent of $80 is, ideally. If there's something really that much better at the $100 price point I'm open to ideas. Also, preferably stainless steel. She's very good about caring for the kitchen knives, but I prefer she not be overly preoccupied with keeping it wiped down in use. There is the Tojiro DP Damascus 165mm Santoku for $80, it is a reasonably good knife and the damascus finish is nice looking, it's a bit plain otherwise. Another good option if she is right handed and you wanted something lighter with a japanese style D handle is the Kiyotsuna Josaku Santoku 165mm, also for $80. This one is a bit nicer looking in my opinion. It is thicker at the spine and probably has a more robust feel to it while also being lighter than the Tojiro, it apparently narrows nicely towards the edge and will cut well with a little sharpening. Though if she is willing to look at 180mm santokus there are some really amazing options like the Minamoto Hamon Santoku 180mm for $99 which is a steal for such a nice knife. It is very thin, cuts extremely well, is very light for a knife with a western handle and is easily the nicest looking of these knives. Was her concern just length or was weight a factor? I ask because most japanese made santokus are much lighter than their western counterparts and have great balance in the hand which makes them feel even lighter.
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Nov 27, 2014 18:52
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Caddrel posted:About sandpaper, I'd like to do this to my knife. What grit of sandpaper would be best, or anything fine okay? Make sure it is sandpaper meant for metal like silicon carbide paper and use a low grit like a 220 to 400 to remove metal and a high grit like 2000-4000 to polish out the scratches. You will want to use some blue painters tape along the side of the knife and edge of the choil and spine to help protect the knife's finish from scratches. For the choil you should cut some sandpaper and superglue it to something hard like a popsicle stick to make it easier to get into corners and around curves. Another good option for polishing is a cheap belt made of real leather with a rough back side, the unfinished back will put a nice final polish on the metal. You should probably put the knife in a vice with the vice's grips wrapped in tape so they don't scratch up the knife, all of this will be much safer if you are not trying to juggle the knife and various sandpapers and belts and stuff. I'd ask at a autoparts store like Autozone for the sandpaper.
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Nov 27, 2014 20:01
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Present posted:Some sexy knives there but so much money... If you are willing to try carbon steel knives there are some really incredible ones out there with japanese style handles for very little money compared to stainless equivalents: Itto-Ryu Hammered 210 Gyuto White #2: This knife should rightfully cost more like $250, but it is only $140. And out of stock, get in line bub. The blade is fully reactive but it patinas very slowly, so as long as you give it a quick wash and dry after use you should never see problems with rust. It cuts extremely well because it has a nicely convexed grind that you normally only see on much more expensive knives. The spine and choil are nicely rounded and the dark, hammered finish is utterly beautiful. It also has a nice oval chestnut handle with a black resin ferule. Exceptional steel at a bargain basement price. Kohetsu Blue #2 Nashiji Gyuto 210mm: Not nearly as nice as the above knife, but very few are. This one has a decent wa handle and is clad in stainless steel, so you only have to worry about the edge, but what an edge it is! Very sharp, sharpens up really nicely and holds an edge for a good while, it's a good knife and a really good knife for $130. Lastly, something fully stainless to keep an eye out for if you are willing to get out the sandpaper and elbow grease: Tanaka Ginsan Gyuto 210mm: The blade here is exceptional for the price but it is very roughly finished. The spine is rough and sharp and so is the choil, but a few hours of work with some sandpaper would round them out nicely. Once that is done you have a $200 blade for $115, so a pretty nice deal all in all. The handle is a pretty bog standard D shaped Ho wood/buffalo horn, not bad but not amazing, it's serviceable and more than I would expect for $115.
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Nov 28, 2014 02:31
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poop dood posted:Hello thread! I apologize if you guys have talked about this before but I'd like to get a good set of knives for Christmas. The two I currently have in my kitchen are lovely $10 knives from Target that are beginning to struggle to cut tomatoes, so literally anything would be better than that. The Japanese knives I've seen in this thread are pretty and all, but they seem beyond what I currently have use for. I just need something durable and able to keep an edge. Those are a bad purchase and it would be better to get a few individual knives. If I didn't want japanese knives I would buy: Victorinox 8-Inch Fibrox Chef's Knife OR Victorinox 10-Inch Fibrox Chef's Knife: Cheap, good quality blade for a western knife, handle grips well wet or dry and is essentially indestructible, no giant finger guard bolster that makes sharpening a huge pain. Which one you get is dependent on what length you are more comfortable with and how much space you have to work with. Victorinox 4-Inch Paring Knife: Good for basically the same reasons as above. Victorinox 10-1/4-Inch Wavy Bread Knife: Same reasons again and a bread knife is nice to have. If you decide to give japanese steel a try, and you should because even the low end japanese knives will out perform almost every western knife out there, I would grab: Tojiro 2 Piece Set: 8.25 inch chef's knife(gyuto) and 3.5 inch paring knife for $100, so still well within your budget and these are so much better than the mercers that it's not even funny. There is also the Tojiro Professionals 2 Piece Set which is the same thing but with a 9.5 inch gyuto instead of the 8.25 inch one for $20 more. Add in a ceramic rod, which you should use on the Victorinox knives above too if you get them instead, and it will cost you $140 to $160. Oh, and the gyuto will go right through anything other than hard crusted bread better than an actual bread knife. I made bread today and my gyuto went through without even displacing a crumb, and that was on a loaf that had been out of the oven for all of ten minutes. Tojiro also makes one of the best bread knives in the world if you want to get it later on when budget allows. The western knives dull just the same as the japanese ones do, and they will dull much faster because of softer steel. All a japanese knife really requires is that you don't try to use it like a crowbar, don't cut frozen food with it and be careful of bones in food when using it. In exchange you get a much sharper and longer lasting edge and a better quality product overall.
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Nov 28, 2014 08:42
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poop dood posted:Wow, thanks! I was worried the Japanese stuff would be expensive but those Tojiros seem just about perfect. Will definitely pick up that ceramic rod too. Thanks for the info! No problem. Remember, there are people in japan who can't afford the fancy knives too and that is the market the Tojiro DP line and such are aimed at, they are plain straight forward knives but still very well made. You will probably want to get the sheath for the ceramic rod, if you put it in a drawer it can chip from banging against stuff because the ceramic is so hard and brittle so the sheath does a really good job of protecting it. You should also grab a 8 inch or 10 inch edge protector for the same reason, it will keep the edge of the knife from whacking into stuff if you put it in a drawer and also keep your hands safe from the edge if you stick your hand in the drawer and brush up against it. Ideally you would use a magnetic knife rack, but that is expensive so for now the blade guards will do a good job.
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Nov 28, 2014 18:32
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Present posted:Wait, why ceramic rods specifically? I thought you want a plain rod to straighten the blade, not sharpened it. A few reasons. First off the ceramic rod will still do some straightening, it is hard after all and that is all it needs to straighten. Second, most steel "honing rods" actually have flanged or textured surfaces and do in fact remove steel, they just do a much worse job of it than the ceramic ones do and can blunt harder steel knives like the japanese ones. You can get actual honing rods, but they are expensive and I feel the ceramic ones are a much better investment overall.
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Nov 28, 2014 19:17
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Karia posted:I currently have two German 8" chef's knives, a Henkel and a Spitzenklasse, for my main knives. I'm getting kind of annoyed with them: the curved blade is bad for gathering ingredients, the steel is too soft to keep an edge without constant maintenance, stuff sticks to them like all hell, and I hate the bolster with a burning passion. I can give some recommendations. Kohetsu SLD Nakiri 165mm: This nakiri is made of SLD semi-stainless steel which while not completely stainless is so stain resistant that as long as you don't leave it wet for hours it won't really rust or discolor at all. Chromium is what gives stainless steel it's stain resistance and for a steel to technically be stainless it has to have 13%+ chromium content, SLD has between 11% and 13% so it is right on the edge of being stainless. The steel sharpens up really well and will retain an edge for a long time between sharpenings. The blade is clad in softer fully stainless steel, so you only really need to worry about the edge. The blade has a interesting lattice pattern on the side above the grind that should help keep food from sticking to the blade. It is thin at the edge and will cut quite well and the blade has a very gentle curve so if you like to rock chop it will work really well for that. The handle is a D shape handle made of oak with a plastic ferule and is a decent handle but not a great one. It is thick enough at the spine that tougher gourds should give it no problems. It costs $120, so it is within your budget. Kohetsu Blue #2 Nashiji Nakiri 165mm: This one has a core of Blue#2 steel clad in stainless steel. Blue#2 sharpens up really well and easily, holds it's edge for a while, is moderately reactive and will darken over time with a patina. As long as you wipe it dry after use it should be fine. This knife has a similar gentle curve to it's edge as the knife above, and is similar in general to the SLD knife. It has a oval handle made of chestnut with a plastic ferule. It costs $95. Minamoto Hamon Nakiri 165mm: This is a fully stainless blade with a western style handle. The steel is a bit softer, more forgiving and less prone to chipping than the above blades but it will not take quite as keen of an edge. It is thiner and a bit shorter than either of the above nakiris and the edge is flatter for more board contact, it's overall thinness should make it feel quite sharp and make it unlikely to wedge in harder stuff like butternut squash but it will probably be a bit stickier than either of the above blades because of it's relatively smooth finish. The handle is a quite nice pakka wood handle of medium size. It costs $99. To protect the edge this edge guard should work just fine, they do a nice job on my knives and fits quite snugly while also being easy to slip on. They feel quite durable, especially for something that costs $3. AVeryLargeRadish fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Nov 29, 2014 |
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Nov 29, 2014 07:03
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Karia posted:Thanks! A friend actually just offered to take me to a good knife store he knows about over Christmas break, so this may go on hold. If you've got any specific notes about things to watch for, though, that'd be useful. Hmmm, I'd watch out if they try to sell you Shuns, they are over priced for what you get which is Tojiro level performance with nicer aesthetics for two to three times the price. If they try to sell you on knife sets and such I would run away fast. Does this place sell japanese knives? The curve is quite gentle so I would not worry too much, you might need a little rocking with really large ingredients. Overall I would recommend the Minamoto, but that is because I like a big flat spot on my knives and I like stainless for less worry if I have to leave the board half way through chopping an onion. The kanji on the side are generally just the name of the smith/ manufacturer or the name of the knife. Most of these are sold in japan too so you can trust that there will be nothing strange on the side.
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Nov 29, 2014 09:38
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two_beer_bishes posted:My wife has decided she wants us to get a nice knife set for xmas and I'm comfortable spending $200-400 on a nice set. I would like it to include steak knives but that isn't a priority. A cleaver isn't necessary for us either, but I would appreciate any recommendations for one in addition to a good shears if possible! Knife sets are almost always a bad deal. You end up paying a lot of money for a lot of steel that you won't be using much because you don't really need every specialized knife around. It's better to buy three to five good knives that will all see some use than ten or twenty low quality ones that don't fit your needs because you want matching handles. Are you going to be using these primarily or is this mostly for your wife? Do you need a knife block or some kind of storage for the knives? Do you have a way to sharpen them when they get dull?
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Nov 29, 2014 15:35
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two_beer_bishes posted:We both cook a lot so we'll both be using them. My wife wants them stored in a block in a drawer rather than on the counter. I don't have any sharpening tools but have been thinking about getting a set of stones for my straight razor anyway. Will a honing rod be good enough? I was planning on fitting that into the budget. I love the idea of getting separate and therefore better knives, and looking at the Tojiro DP that I've seen recommended earlier in ths thread it looks like that should keep us from spending too much. A ceramic hone would be enough for touching up the edge but not enough for real sharpening. If you are getting stones for your straight razor anyway they can also work great on kitchen knives. For knives I would start with one of the Tojiro DP two piece sets plus the Tojiro ITK bread knife. You can get something fancy later on if you want, but for now the Tojiros are a good place to start. For storage you can either just get the cheap edge guards and put them in an uncrowded drawer or use a in drawer knife holder. I actually recommend the edge guards or a wall mounted magnetic knife rack because they protect the edge better. For sharpening I'd start with this Shapton Glass stone set. These are some of the best made, slowest wearing stones around and they don't need to be soaked before use, just splash a little water on and you're good to go. You will want a stone holder of some kind, the universal one is good. You will eventually want a lapping plate to keep the stones even but you can wait a bit on that and rub the stones against each other in the mean time. Eventually you will want a rougher stone like a 320 or 500 for repairs and such and you might want an 8k stone and stropping equipment for the razor later on but for now the two piece set would be plenty.
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Nov 30, 2014 10:29
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guppy posted:Gift shopping for someone who likes to cook but has little experience with knives, looking to replace her Cutco with a better chef's knife, probably 8". I am hoping to get her not to use one of the pull-through sharpeners, since she does own one, but I'm a little afraid to choose a Japanese knife in case she does use it and the angle is wrong. Should I be concerned about that? Either way, any recommendations in the $100-or-less range? I know there's the Tojiro DP gyuto ($57), but I'm wondering if there's anything better to be had that's a little nicer without going over-budget. Can be maybe a little more but not much. I saw the Shun Sora 8" ($65), which seems nice maybe. But I'm still concerned about the sharpening thing. Same deal with the Mac Chef series ($95), and I don't have any experience with that line. A Wusthof Classic is a little above budget ($130), although they have some other lines in range, like the Classic 200th Anniversary thing Amazon lists ($90). Sneak into her house and abduct the roll sharpener? v  vI'd get her a cheap one like the Tojiro, Shun or Fujiwara FKM and a ceramic hone with a sheath, show them how to use the hone and tell them that the roll sharpener will break the knife if used for long enough because the steel on good knives is too hard for it and the angle is wrong. But there is only so much you can do when buying for someone else, good luck. EDIT: I almost forgot, Shun has a free sharpening service, so get her the Shun and have her send it in a couple times a year. AVeryLargeRadish fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Dec 1, 2014 |
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Dec 1, 2014 05:10
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Time Trial posted:Is it worth going to a store like Sur La Table or something to try out knives for feel before buying one? If they have the knives you are interested in, yes. But their selection seems to be pretty bad. Henkels & Wüsthof are badly designed, use soft steel and are vastly overpriced. Global has gone downhill and is overpriced. Shuns are decent but chippy and overpriced. Their Miyabi line looks ok but is also overpriced. Really any knife you get from CKTG or JapaneseChefsKnife.com is going to be a really good knife, you just need to know what sort of knife you want. It's a game of tradeoffs.
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Dec 3, 2014 07:00
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Olothreutes posted:Are the Shun honing rods that are half smooth and half ridged a good idea? They seem to be about the same price as an Idahone and I like the idea of a smooth rod, even partially, without having to drop $100 for that Dickerson monster to hone my DP. I've never used the Shun one before but I'm gonna say that the Idahone is a better choice because really hard steel just does not take well to straightening in general. It's a better idea to just touch-up on the rod between sharpenings or if you have a fine stone or strop just use that to do some trailing strokes as touch-up.
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Dec 3, 2014 07:36
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Moridin920 posted:If you're talking about a metal rod using the grooved bit will chip your knife eventually. Yeah I know Shun sells it themselves idk what to say about that.  really? That is hilarious. Once again marketing and expectations wins over sense.
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Dec 3, 2014 09:56
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Uber Kosh posted:Hi thread, quick question: No differences besides the handles on the ones in the first link, on a side note: gently caress all metal handles. As for knife makers, there is always Teruyasu-Fujiwara if you want a really nice hand made knife and want to spend up to around $300. They are White #1 steel, so they are very reactive. There is also Konosuke in Sakai, a company employing a number of different blacksmiths who are renowned for the quality of their knives. I have a Konosuke Ginsan 240mm Gyuto and it is a superb knife so I recommend you give them a visit if you can, they have a pretty wide selection so you ought to be able to find something you like. EDIT: Eff you auto correct. 
AVeryLargeRadish fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Dec 4, 2014 |
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Dec 4, 2014 05:11
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Uber Kosh posted:Thanks for the response! Why are all metal handles a bad thing though? I don't like metal handles because they tend to make the knife handle heavy and because they tend to get slippery when wet, I want a secure grip especially when doing things like peeling or other paring knife work. For Konosuke knives the Fujiyama series are really nice if you don't mind reactive steel and the Ginsan series are very nice if you want stainless steel but are very thin and will feel delicate until you grow into them.
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Dec 5, 2014 01:53
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The MACs are good knives but I would recommend the Tojiro DP or Fujiwara FKM lines over them just based on how much cheaper they are. The FKM line does not get mentioned much here but they are really nice. I prefer them over the DPs, they are a bit thiner, especially at the tip. The thinness helps the tip pass through stuff more easily and makes it better for fine work while still not feeling fragile.
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Dec 21, 2014 08:26
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GrAviTy84 posted:someone recommend to me a 5k-6k finishing stone. I'm looking at the King 6k cause it's cheap but idk how it is. The King one is decent, if you want something that cuts faster, doesn't need soaking and like a harder stone this Shapton is good, it's the same as the Shapton pros, just with japanese branding. I dunno about the Suehiro, their Rika line is very good if you like a soft stone but I've heard their other lines are mediocre. That one you linked doesn't say what it is but it doesn't look like a Rika to me, it's a bit of a gamble I guess.
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Dec 22, 2014 02:24
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Zorak of Michigan posted:I have no previous experience with sharpening knives, but I decided to give the EdgePro-esque a shot. I lack self-confidence in these matters so I decided to try it on an old crappy paring knife my wife had before she went Cutco - meaning it's spent the last 15+ years in a drawer, and before that, it probably went through a few hundred dishwasher cycles, and before that, it probably cost $5 at some grocery store somewhere. Anyway... I had no problem getting the knicks out with a coarse stone, but now I've taken it to 1000 grit, it looks pretty shiny, but it doesn't feel especially sharp. I'm comparing it to the paring knife I ignorantly bought as part of a Henckel set and then maintained with a pull-through, so the bar isn't especially high here. I've got three theories: 1) 1000 grit isn't enough and I need to go further before I try cutting something, or 2) a knife this lovely is just not going to take a good edge, or 3) I'm doing something wrong. I want to rule out number three before I try sharpening my chef's knife, 'cause if I do something bad to it, I will spend the holiday mired in self-loathing. Can anyone provide advice or moral support? What exactly are you doing? Walk us through your procedure in as much detail as possible. 1k ought to be plenty for a soft steel knife.
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Dec 23, 2014 05:35
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Zorak of Michigan posted:I was, in fact, mistaking sharpness for bite. Googling those terms and figuring out the difference led to a page that also taught me that watching videos had given me the wrong idea of what raising a burr really meant. I moved from 400 to 1000 when I could feel some stuff on the other side of the blade, but seeing people describe it as a wire tells me I wasn't really there yet. Anyway, I tried using it to cut thin bits off an onion rather than trying to slice balance transfer checks and hey, look at that, it was probably 95% as good as my old knife. I assume that actually raising a burr with the 400 and 1000 will get it to where I was hoping it would be. Thanks! When you are sharpening a very old and beat up knife like the one you were sharpening you want to grind until you can see a clear, even bevel on the side you are sharpening and then repeat on the other side and switch back and forth until the sides are roughly equal. Then switch to the next stone and raise a burr on one side, then the other, etc. When you are nearly done with a stone the feel of the stone going over the knife will change, becoming smoother feeling. You will still have some bur left at the very end even if you cannot feel it, if you have a cork you can draw the edge of the blade through the cork to remove the last of the burr. If you have some newspaper sitting around you can put it on a flat surface and do some edge trailing strokes on it to refine the edge a little more. You should be able to get it to shaving and printer paper slicing sharpness even if it's a pretty crap knife, I got my $15 Ikea knife there with a 1200 grit stone after all.
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Dec 23, 2014 06:47
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Paper With Lines posted:Is the Tojiro DP mentioned as the mid range chef's knife in op still the recommended knife for that category? As in this bad boy? Yeah, the Tojiro DPs are great deals, especially if you want something pretty hefty. I like the Fujiwara FKM a little better because it thins out more as it goes towards the tip where as the Tojiro maintains most of it's thickness until it hits the grind into the tip. If you want to try a japanese handle the Richmond GT Artifex is a really good choice, the blade is made by Fujiwara and is very similar to the FKM's blade and the handle is of exceptional quality for such a low priced knife. If you want to try out a carbon knife I recommend grabbing the one Grav linked on E-bay.
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Dec 26, 2014 02:43
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