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I don't know if this is the best place to ask but my brother wants to build a wood mill for his little cabinetry business. He needs a 1500x500x100mm envelope, Any suggestions on where to start? he'll need to cut all types of wood but nothing harder.
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Nov 5, 2013 22:10
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That's incredible.
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Nov 14, 2013 07:01
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Regarding building my own cnc table, I'm seeing a lot of 4 axis stepper and power board kits on eBay, are 4 axis used when you need to drive both sides of a wide Y-travel carriage? Also is the table surface to be considered a consumable in that it will be damaged over time? Does cutting through assume the bed is collateral damage?
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Oct 6, 2014 11:11
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I was thinking of the machines that cut 4x8 plywood etc, can they cut through the plywood without damaging the surface underneath?
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Oct 7, 2014 05:58
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As this seems to have become the defacto cnc thread, has anyone heard good or bad things about the shapeoko 2 kits? They look easily upgradeable and flexible in size, but I wonder how rigid they stay at larger frame sizes.
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Oct 17, 2014 09:58
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SomethingLiz posted:I've had both the Shapeoko 1 and now the 2. The 1 was not as sturdy as I would have liked it to be, but the 2 is great. I've cut wood, plexiglass, and aluminum with it and haven't had any issues with slipping. As long as you upgrade the spindle to something like the DW660 or that Makita router everyone uses, and get the right bits you shouldn't have any issues. What frame size do you have? Do you rate the makerslide or would it be better copied in separate v-rail and extrusion pieces?
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Oct 18, 2014 20:26
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Cool, standard size? Post pics of your build and any issues you get please, I can justify one of these when I've got space.
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Nov 6, 2014 07:13
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I just realized the shapeoko with an extended x-axis is exactly the machine my brother needed a few months back, I think I even asked in this thread. I'll share it with him and see if he's got worse impulse control than me.
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Nov 17, 2014 11:33
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Can't you just reface the spoil board with the tool?
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Nov 19, 2014 23:29
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See if you can eBay some used cableveyor, or a strip of thin springy steel, anything to contain the wires in one plane.
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Dec 15, 2014 07:00
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oxbrain posted:Most of the world calls it cable carrier. It's cheap it you buy Chinese. This should work. Do this, I just have a decent budget at work and the igus stuff is very durable.
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Dec 15, 2014 22:31
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Parts Kit posted:? Isn't this massively dependant on the tool speed & cutter vs material?
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Dec 17, 2014 12:51
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Parts Kit posted:Yeah, on a real CNC machine I'd be looking it up in the machinist's handbook. But for the Shapeoko I think you have to take it sloooow since it's not exactly high power. So I'm just curious what people here are doing with their various machines so I know where to start. My first materials are going to be plyboard, oak, and HDPE by the way. Try a straight line pass in a piece of waste material, keep upping the speed until you can hear it struggling then back it off again. Note the speed and cutting depth for that material. You'll build up a reference of what your machine is capable of. I'd love to offer actual numbers advice but I don't yet have one of these machines, sorry.
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Dec 17, 2014 16:10
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Hu Fa Ted posted:It's worth noting that my crappy old M head bridgeport which I think clocks in at 2000lbs does not really like hogging out steel. It will do medium cuts with a nice tool, but it's just not that rigid. A gantry design is going to be orders of magnitude less rigid than that. My B&S light milling machine doesn't mind hogging steel so long as you're using it as a horizontal machine, and even then it's still a light milling machine even though it clocks in at a forklift tipping 3500lbs. The Asquith at work is a gantry and that had no problem going through steel, though it bigger than my house.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:25
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:The big gantry systems are really sweet, in that you can lockout/tagout the millhead and climb inside the thing with a pushbroom and trashcan to clean up the chips. Ours is a couple of decades old and has no guarding, meaning although you can loto, there's nothing to stop you walking onto the bed and grabbing the spindle. Other than imagination.
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Apr 24, 2015 14:26
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Those style of covers are very popular in machine shops http://www.dynatect.com/protective-covers/roll-up-covers Just an example, I've never used this company.
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Oct 29, 2015 18:11
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Not unless they're on the development team I'd guess.
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Nov 16, 2015 00:19
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mds2 posted:One problem is I havent found a way to make it do multi-pass cutting. Rurin the same program multiple times with increasing depths?
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Nov 24, 2015 20:33
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Just out of interest I specced up the 1m version without router, waste board, tools, chain, psu. $773, I don't know what shipping to the uk would be but after filling those voids from eBay and Amazon that's temptingly around £700.
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Nov 27, 2015 22:17
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Acid Reflux posted:I don't know how the math would work out overall, but there's also a UK distributor: 50% more before shipping.
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Nov 28, 2015 14:39
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All I can add is that over here that plastic is called Trefolyte.
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May 1, 2016 23:53
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Brekelefuw posted:A 1/4" piece of aluminium plate is so cheap. Why bother making some wax? Wax can be collected and re-melted and machined again, aluminum would require a foundry.
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Aug 31, 2016 06:14
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If you stuffed rock wool between those double walls would you see a significant improvement do you reckon?
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Mar 20, 2017 09:55
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edmund745 posted:I'm pondering a robotic arm (that could also be a router/mill) but I'd need high-torque motors for that, and there's no harmonic drives that are cheap & new. Depending on your budget and planned work envelope I've seen mid-sized robot arms(100kg/1.6m) with controllers go for a couple of grand on eBay, controlling then is a whole pile of fun but you won't waste forever trying to build a rigid arm.
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Aug 16, 2017 10:04
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House sign? Awesome, we'll need an action shot to be certain though.
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Nov 4, 2017 06:06
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Sagebrush posted:I would probably screw a dial indicator into a 1-2-3 block and slide it along one rail while measuring the other, yeah. This but a magbase for the dial indicator. Measuring at a few points won't show everything.
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Mar 6, 2019 11:21
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Why is iron Man sucking a lemon?
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Aug 7, 2020 08:16
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I use fusion on a Celeron-cored laptop and yes loading is slow but with the right video settings it's perfectly usable. Another tip: exporting a model as an STL requires it to go back to base to be converted and takes ages, but right click export a component is done locally and takes a couple of seconds. Why I don't know but that's all I use so it saves me a ton of time.
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Aug 17, 2020 06:03
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I read a lot of blogs and reviews of the mpcnc and lowrider this weekend actually, I specifically looked for bad reviews and people who couldn't get it working and scrapped it, there's loads and most seem to be problems with the electronics or not understanding basic fabricating so I'm confident if I had the space I could get one working. Plenty of reviews from people running small businesses who can't get rid of this homemade junkpile because it makes them money nonstop too.
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Jan 25, 2021 09:07
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 10:51 |
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Sagebrush posted:If you have money to burn, you can get the wacky nano-coated carbide compression bits. They are an absolute joy to use and rip cleanly through wood like nothing else but $120 for a half inch tool is maybe out of the average hobbyist's budget. That's a beautiful garish work of art.
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Feb 17, 2021 09:35
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