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rotor posted:this is really the weak point and I wish I had a better answer. I'm super lovely with CAD so I haven't made anything in CAD myself yet. As for CAM, I halfassedly tried to pirate rhinocam but gave up after a minute or two and used Cambam: http://www.cambam.info/ it does some pretty adequate things like drill holes here here and here, mill a pocket there, stuff like that. That's really where the learning curve is for me - drawing that stuff is hard, and figuring out what proper speeds are so simple parts don't take an hour while it moves around at an inch a minute because I punted and played it super safe or whatever. There's an app called G-Wizard that helps with calculating speeds. I don't believe it is free but it is probably worth the investment. Here's a link to a part of a video where the guy walks through using it for a particular setup. edit: http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCGWizard.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2Xa0PMHM1U&t=90s kafkasgoldfish fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Jul 9, 2013 |
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Jul 9, 2013 06:02
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ante posted:Designing a CNC for making PCBs on no real budget with no real idea what I'm doing Setting up parallel guide rails can be pretty tricky (at least for hobbyist 3d printers). It looks like you're just going to capture the rods in holes in the angles on each end, but getting four holes that allow for two perfectly parallel rods is easier said than done. Maybe you could include some adjustability there? my ideas are terrible: #1 capture the rod ends in small plates that can float in oversized holes with nuts and bolts. #2 what if you relied on something else to join the two square tubes and then split the angles on each end into thirds so that each pieces that could be adjusted/shimmed individually?
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Nov 1, 2013 01:37
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ante posted:I was going to maybe add a couple square tubes in the centre to join the square tubes/increase rigidity instead of just relying on the angles. One other thing, you can probably leave one end of the threaded rod hanging instead of seating it in the far plate. Depending on how much $$ you put into the rod and how well it's seated against the stepper, it may not be perfectly straight and one end might have some wobble (even a tiny amount could cause some binding). For the platform, are you going to use linear bearings? edit: You might consider using using aluminum extrusion from someone like Misumi. It would simplify the assembly significantly. kafkasgoldfish fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Nov 2, 2013 |
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Nov 2, 2013 01:59
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CarForumPoster posted:Unless you're ordering ground rods, which might be a good idea theyre not too much more expensive, theyre basically extruded in the same way. Dont expect your straightness per foot to be great with rod either. If you could get thick walled tubing (or just solid, this is the base of a machine) weld it all together and then just square it up on a bridgeport you'll find massive improvements in all these regards. This is just a pcb mill, seems like solid tubing, milling and welding are a bit over the top. He could build the frame out of dimensional oak 2x2s and cheesy galvanized brackets from THD it'd be more than rigid enough. Also, what is the scale of this thing? If you're using scrap components from printers and the like, none of those rods can be much more than say 12-16"? p.s. misumi extrusions are like $1/10cm, are totally sufficient strength wise and they'll cut them to length for free. last time I'll mention it.
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Nov 4, 2013 17:38
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