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Chickenbisket posted:So far the plan is to use an Arduino with a Grblshield for the controller,and I want to use Nema 23 steppers on the X axis and Nema 17 steppers on the Y and Z axis. I'm really interested in being able to expand it out to 4x4 or 4x6ish (since the only options on Makerslide are 1m or 1.8m).
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Dec 7, 2013 06:40
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Elston Gunn posted:The kit comes with a set of precision washers for the V-wheels, or at least mine did. https://www.inventables.com/technologies/desktop-3d-carving-cnc-mill-kit-shapeoko-2 Short term plan is to get it running so I can play with making some nice enclosures for other projects out of wood or plastic, as well as some 2d graphics since I've got Illustrator handy already. Long term plan is to set it up so I can swap out between the router and a laser cutter. Fortunately I know some people with high power laser experience so I can discuss safety issues with them beforehand.
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Nov 29, 2014 04:09
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I have assembled my Shapeoko! Does anyone have any tips for keeping the wires from getting pinched as it moves? Still got to finish the wiring and make sure everything is square before doing my first cut, but most of the work is done yay.
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Dec 15, 2014 05:56
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Ooof, cableveyor is way out of my price range. I'll look into something else. Some nylon (?) mesh tube came with it so for now I suppose I can just stick with that and heat shrink tube. Thanks.
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Dec 15, 2014 18:40
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Well that's cool. I'll just make some up once I have everything sorted out. #1 priority is to get everything running and then make a mount for something nicer than that dremel knockoff it comes with.
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Dec 15, 2014 21:01
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Well the shapeoko is up and running! It still needs to be squared but it ran a test file well. With one exception that is, when I canceled the job after it completed two full passes it ran up the z-axis until it hit. No idea if that's from the Universal G-Code sender or if the return height was something set by Fusion 360. Anyone have any ideas where I should be looking on that? Also, around what area of feed rates and plunge depths should I be sticking with on this machine? For the test file I set feed rate to 10 in/min from the default of Fusion 360 of 40, but that was slow as hell.
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Dec 17, 2014 00:51
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Cakefool posted:Isn't this massively dependant on the tool speed & cutter vs material?
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Dec 17, 2014 15:22
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FYI the shapeoko kits are on sale for $100 off again. https://www.inventables.com/technologies/desktop-3d-carving-cnc-mill-kit-shapeoko-2
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Dec 17, 2014 15:52
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It's cool! I'll do some experimenting and see where things fall. I found a rough guide on their wiki in case anyone else needs it. http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Materials#Cutting_Formula Also I bought a Makita compact router today so I can swap out the dremel copy as soon as my HDPE gets in and I am able to cut out the mount dxf. 
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Dec 17, 2014 23:45
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Just finished cutting my first part with the Shapeoko 2. The axes need some tweaking since at least one of them is not square, probably Z, but it worked great. 
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Dec 24, 2014 05:29
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It just occurred to me that it would be possible to make a 1/8" version of the Nano Tram out of a circle of HDPE and a #8 screw carefully ground down so that there's enough threads for two nuts to grab onto the HDPE but the rest is 1/8". This wouldn't be great, but it should be 'good enough' to get the dremel spindle respectably aligned while mounting the fucker. Then it since it turns out the actual Nano Tram has a 1/4" shank I can use the one I bought years ago for my mini mill to set up the router once the mounts have been cut.
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Dec 31, 2014 12:37
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Yeah I know that's the proper way to do it but it's not worth the trouble when I'm going to immediately switch out the spindle and have to do it all over again. Eventually I'll do it for the makita setup. Since I have a mini mill I'm now thinking about converting it to a cnc machine so I can work on metal without risk to the shapeoko. Gotta get some funds together first though.
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Jan 2, 2015 23:25
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Since I'm a cheap bastard and didn't want to pay for the Shapeoko wasteboard with the pre-done holes for tee-nuts I just made my shapeoko do the work itself.
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Jan 5, 2015 20:17
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A very simple thing you could do is to get some translucent/transparent material, do any rough machining/profiling, paint it black (or whatever as long as it is a thick enough coat not to let light through), and then machine the remaining indicators in the face so that the paint and a small amount of plastic is removed. Depending on the profile you might want to do step 2 last maybe?
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Jan 21, 2015 22:34
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I'm sure this will come as a huge shock, but when you properly secure your materials and use recommended feeds/speeds the results are a lot better!
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Mar 9, 2015 04:15
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Finally got the new makita router mounted onto my shapeoko, now begins the process of making sure everything is nice and straight.  In the mean time I've decided to start looking into what all would be required to convert my HF mini-mill to CNC.
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Mar 15, 2015 12:54
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Would 269 oz-in stepper motors be sufficient for converting a mini-mill to CNC? I was kinda hoping to stick with a gshield setup since I've already got one for my shapeoko (so not having to figure out how to set up another different one would be nice). ed:to clarify I know I'll be buying another gshield setup, just don't want to learn a whole new setup if I can avoid it.
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Apr 23, 2015 03:23
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Is there a free or at least not stupid expensive CAD/CAM software out there that can actually handle SVGs or DXFs from Adobe Illustrator without making me want to kill myself? Fusion 360 is failing miserably at this. Fusion 360: "oh cool you want to import a SVG? well let me make it hundreds of inches too large and then not let you scale it. oh now you have a dxf? well i'll import it but i won't let you extrude it"
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Aug 28, 2015 19:36
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Dang, guess I'll buy some acrylic sheet to contain the dustpocalypse.
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Aug 30, 2015 15:25
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Since my home made router mounts on my shapeoko 2 are out of square I haven't been doing squat. But last night I found out that the Bosch Colt mount can be made to work with my Makita with a thin shim. The difference in diamater is 70mm for the Bosch and 65mm for the Makita. So the plan is to use a couple cheapie sets of feeler gauges to shim it since that's only 2.5mm (just under .010") of shim stock needed. If that fails I'll get some shim tape from McMaster Carr. Then back to leveling all the axes so I can finally get cracking. There was also something spotted while searching where someone built their grblshield and power setup into an ammo can. I'll likely do that as well, but adding a RasPi to it for the computer so that outside of the monitor it'll be an all in one deal. And maybe also some Cat 4 cable jacks so I can finally get some limit switches in here.
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Sep 5, 2015 01:53
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Hot drat, the RasPi can run Universal G-Code Sender 2.0. And they've added an inch setting for the manual jogging so it's not just in mm anymore!
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Sep 5, 2015 23:02
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Woo, the Inventables mount has a pen holder built in. Hadn't really noticed that. This is great as attempted to make a dial indicator holder out of a 90 degree bent piece of aluminum rod earlier. It's sitting securely in the pen holder right now. Prelim results -- MDF wasteboard is horribly out of whack. Definitely bowing on one piece, and there's a drop when moving to the other. Shocking, I know. 
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Sep 9, 2015 23:23
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Sure, though it'd be limited to only the work area, so if I had to clamp a larger stock piece outside of that there'd still be error. If I can get it down to about 5-10 thousandths across the work area I should be fine for the non-precision stuff I'm doing. Really my main concern at the moment is getting the axes square.
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Sep 10, 2015 21:08
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Finally cut something on the shapeoko 2 for the first time in months. Just a couple limit switch mounts, got a few more to make. Now if I can only figure out a way to install these bastards without having to take apart most of the machine. ed: woo, figured it out. 2 down, 4 to go once more screws/nuts arrive. 
Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 13:18
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peepsalot posted:You might like these sort of things
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Sep 16, 2015 21:35
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froward posted:An acquaintance has built himself a CNC mill with motors, and wants help with the software. I'm considering helping him, because he is a nice person and I would like for him to be my friend. But I've no idea how to start on such a thing. Then on the software side he'll need software for CAD, then CAM software for turning the CAD model into g-code, and then some kind of program to send the g-code down from the raspi to the interpreter board. Universal G-Code Sender has worked well for me for the last part, though it's bare bones and getting it to run on my raspi was kinda annoying. I have a love-hate relationship with Fusion 360 for CAD/CAM (it does both yay) and use it on my desktop and macbook. Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Sep 17, 2015 |
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Sep 17, 2015 01:37
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I came really close to buying this for the power switch for my shapeoko. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CTI0/84826.oap?ck=Search_skull+switch_-1_-1&keyword=skull+switch But I'm just a handful of crimp connectors away from having limit switches installed so that's nice.
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Sep 25, 2015 02:49
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And the limit switches are done and a couple successful home tests have been performed.
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Sep 26, 2015 21:42
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Fusion 360 has a CAM mode, so you generate the g code in it and it'll output a file. Then you send that file with something like UniversalGCodeSender to your machine.
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Sep 30, 2015 00:40
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Does anyone know if there is a rule of thumb for max plunge for a given cutter diameter for plastic like the (1/2 diameter of cutter) max for metal? Got a stencil to make that might require a 1/32" mill to do and stepdowns of <= 1/64" would add a lot of time to an already long job.
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Oct 1, 2015 00:03
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Hah, I should have guessed software like that exists already. Thanks you two.
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Oct 2, 2015 14:50
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Similarly, I've been looking off and on for more powerful steppers for my shapeoko 2. There's plenty of NEMA 23s but usually the current draw is too high for the gshield. Found this 115 oz-in NEMA 17 yesterday though: http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Motion_Control/Stepper_Systems/Stepper_Motors_-z-_Cables/STP-MTR-17060 In addition to being more powerful (I think about double over what used to come with the inventables kit) I won't have to mess with changing the mounts and such for NEMA 23 size, which is really nice. Still got to figure out just how in the gently caress I'm going to approach converting my mini mill over to cnc. No way I'm blowing $400+ on an incomplete kit at the moment.
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Oct 16, 2015 22:00
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This is an interesting way to keep chips out of the ways. Guy used some sort of tensioned curtain that retracts or extends as the machine moves. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HK_5G3VHaak
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Oct 26, 2015 21:29
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If anyone else is trying to bring svgs from Illustrator to Fusion 360, a scaling factor of 0.0185 seems to get fusion 360 to give you the resulting size you actually wanted. (Otherwise nice little 8x8 graphics for engraving become hundreds of inches in size)
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Nov 15, 2015 20:14
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peepsalot posted:SVG is terrible for CAD because there is no way to use real world units, its all converted to pixels based on an arbitrary DPI decided by whichever software you are using. Mister Sinewave posted:Has anyone else made eyes at Inventables' Carvey? They should be shipping like any day now if their site is to be believed. The other thing is the X-Carve and Shapeoko have a lot more potential in them -- you could turn them into lower power laser engravers or draw knife setups. Really just about anything assuming you can mount it to the z-axis and find a way to control it. And if a smaller home office usable machine is what you want you could go much, much further with a mini-mill conversion, albeit with the caveat that you'll have to come up with an enclosure to keep it from getting crazy messy. Pretty sure you'll spend a lot less than $2k on that too since last I checked mills are ~$600ish, conversions about $400-$500, and a tiny g setup + steppers another $250-$400. A mini mill would have the option to use R8 collets (which go from really god drat tiny to I think 3/4"?) instead of just 1/8" or 1/4" shank bits. So you'd have a fuckload more options for cutters. Also 4th axis capable thanks to the much much more generous Z-axis range on mini mills. Seriously this is way cooler than a Carvey. Eyeball guesstimate would be about 10" by 6-7" by 9-10" work area. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kf1awhU2UOc
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Nov 16, 2015 00:45
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If money is an issue you can get the shapeoko 2 and install some of the revised parts that make up the X-carve, like the one piece X-axis gantry and the revised Z-axis plate. Both are in the plates and carriages section of Inventables. That said the buy it now price is not great as that's what they were selling for during the sale shortly before the x-carve was announced. Also the dremel tool knockoff is horrid and should be immediately replaced before you start cutting anything. God that thing pissed me off when I tried to use it to make some mounts for a makita router. If you got it for the opening bid it would be a respectable deal. Also you can get drag chain cheaply off ebay and microswitches from amazon. I'd suggest getting both beforehand if you went with the shapeoko as starting off with them will make life easier. Similarly getting a premade router or spindle mount from Inventables would make life a lot easier over fabricating one.
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Nov 16, 2015 01:35
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Yes, it's actually really easy though the wiki isn't very clear on some of it. Give me a moment and I'll dig up the link and post specifics.
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Nov 16, 2015 01:48
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Okay, here's the links you need to read. Link 1: connections https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Connecting-Grbl Link 2: configuration https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Configuring-Grbl-v0.8 (I'm assuming he has a v.08 board, there's instructions for others on other pages and reflashing it shouldn't be too hard if it's older) Link 3: summary of the possible options on the shapeoko wiki. Has some diagrams, which is nice. http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Home/Limit_Switches Materials needed: 1. Switches with a normally open pin. Microswitches are good and the 3 pin ones have normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC) pins. Just make sure you're using the right two pins. 2. Wire for the connections. I was lazy and bought a long (25ft?) thing of telephone cable since it's flexible and has 4 wires in it. 3. Female quick connects, spade style, if you don't want to solder to the switches' terminals. I think I needed 1/8". You can get these (and a crimper) at most auto parts stores. 4. soldering stuff 5. 3 capacitors, 0.01uF 6. Arduino "protoshield" 7. something to make mounts with, and appropriate screws/washers/nuts (probably M3). I'm pretty sure all of that can be bought on amazon. What you are going to do is use the protoshield to set up the wiring for the switches, with the capacitors in parallel, so that the switch will bring one of the three (specific!) pins on the arduino uno into a connection with ground. When the arduino notices one of those three pins going to ground it realizes (very quickly!) the machine has reached the end of its travel and shuts down to prevent breaking belts or burning up motors. Assuming the guy hasn't messed with the default config those are pins 9 (x), 10 (y), and, 11 (z). On the protoshield there will be a pad for each pin, once you've identified 9, 10, and 11 you will run a wire from that pad to the interior part of the protoshield, and then have that go in parallel with the cap and the input switch pin. The other switch pin (NC) will then lead to ground, as will the other end of the cap. There's a nice long ground rail on the protoshield so what I did was put all the terminations on that rail so I didn't go insane doing extra soldering. Ideally you'll want two switches per axis so you don't crash into the end of either direction, and their wires can just be twisted together at the arduino end for simplicity (if you use telephone cable you'll have 4 nice wires to play with so this is easy). What you have to watch out for is getting axes mixed up or having a circuit cross two axes. After everything is wired up on the protoshield correctly you just sandwich it between the arduino and the gshield. After all that stuff is done you need to make a few tweaks to firmware settings on the gshield so it knows limit switches are installed. The codes and explanation are in the second link, but here's the short version. When you open up something like Universal G Code sender there is a spot you can use to send strings of info (commands, etc) to the gshield. Do the following: $$ $16=1 $17=1 then $$ again to confirm the settings took and variables 16, 17 are both 1. The above will tell it to use limit switches and tell it you want to do a homing cycle (setting 17). With the homing cycle every time the arduino starts up it will go to the furthest positive position possible on all axes. Once it has reached all three it will stop. So you have to make sure you at the least have limit switches where it will want to go during homing (1 per axis), though 2 per axis is better in the long run for keeping the machine from loving itself to death if you mess up your CAD/CAM. After it has homed you'll have to deactivate the alarm flag that goes off when a limit switch is hit (command $X, or possibly a button in your software may do it), move it, and soft reset it, which will set that new point as the new origin (0,0,0). Make a note how much you move the axes before doing the soft reset, that way if your bit breaks and you have to shut down and change out bits you can then let it do another homing cycle, return to the former position you wrote down, then do the soft reset, and run the CAM file again. And everything should be (reasonably) lined up how it was! Way better than having to grab rear end it and hope you're not too far off. Universal G Code Sender has a position readout you can use to accomplish this, and if you have a fixture set up you can configure the gshield to always go to a (X,Y) reference point on it after homing for faster repeated operations. I haven't messed with that though. It's in the configuration link at the top if you are interested. If you have any questions on wiring, I did as well and here's where I was asking smarter people about it. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2734977&pagenumber=320&perpage=40#post450401538 The above stuff isn't that bad, it just takes a while to work through. What's really annoying about this whole process will be figuring out how to mount the switches and where. Google around and you'll see plenty of options, some of which you can download plans and 3d print if you've got a printer already setup. I hope that was clear, let me know if anything was confusing.
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Nov 16, 2015 02:32
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BiohazrD posted:Thanks. So if I get that Shapeoko 2 at the bid price, spend $150 or so on a good router and the mount, maybe $50 more on upgrades that's about $650. That's a nice price to start It's cool the X-Carve and Shapeoko 3 take into account some of these updates and include stuff the 2 didn't, but drat the price jumped from about 600 to about 1k. ed: oh yeah if you want to upgrade the stepper motors (the included ones are wimpy) there's a link in one of my recent posts here where I found some NEMA 17s that are about 115 in-oz, supposedly about the max power the 2 can really make use of (IIRC about 120-130 is the max). Most of the other motors (usually NEMA 23s) I've seen close to that power draw more current than the gshield can source safely, but the 17s linked don't and won't require getting new pulleys and poo poo like the 23s would. The stock motors are about half as powerful. That'll add another $150ish to your total though. Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Nov 16, 2015 |
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Nov 16, 2015 02:33
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How? ed: if we're talking non-cnc stuff then no duh. Also appears that Fusion 360 can't import pdfs so eh, still stuck with svg. Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Nov 16, 2015 |
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Nov 16, 2015 02:52
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