|
Looks like water pumps are available for those, so pretty much no matter what's wrong with the cooling system you should be able to sort it out. Does it cool better at high speeds? That could indicate that a shroud would help. But if it gets hotter the faster you drive it, either you have something gummed up, or possibly a bad water pump? Are all the belts in good shape?
|
#
¿
Jul 15, 2013 06:55
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 01:28 |
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:Only odd thing I noticed was that as I sat there in park, occasionally running up the RPMs, was that when I gave it a quick press of the pedal it would sometimes "quack". I had the hood up so I could hear things very well, it wasn't especially loud and it only seemed to happen when I gave it a quick pump of the gas pedal. Any guesses? This is old, but anyway: It's probably your alternator belt squeaking trying to keep up. Is the belt tension adequate? The rule of thumb I was taught in high school is that there should be about one inch of deflection per one foot of span, as you're pushing on the belt with your thumb.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2013 03:50
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:The Studebaker forumites think it's a carburetor problem. Once the shop manual shows up, I guess I'll get to learn how to clean a carb! $55 for a rebuild kit seems steep but god knows how old the rubber in there is, so I guess I should order one? Probably not, these older cars don't have much in the way of electronics in them so they'll run the ignition for a very long time off of the battery. I've driven home with a nonfunctional alternator in my old Chevy (it actually had an internal short, so it was worse than dead) and that was over half an hour. I had aftermarket electronic ignition, though.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 17, 2013 07:21
|
|
|
I'd be a bit concerned about that wet spot next to the throttle linkage. A common place for carburetor wear is ovaling out of the butterfly shaft, which is not always straightforward to repair. Someone with more experience with these particular carburetors ought to have more insight.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2013 08:16
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:It stalled twice pulling from a stop, How's the acceleration pump driven on the new carb? Sometimes they ship on the lowest setting, or are left unhooked for you to connect however you want. Sounds like the pumpshot is inadequate. Does it bog if you quickly blip the throttle from idle in neutral?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 6, 2013 08:46
|
|
|
Oh! Yeah if the choke isn't functional and it wasn't warmed up all the way that'll happen. I was assuming it was all the way warmed up.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 7, 2013 00:18
|
|
|
Something you might want to do is to sit in the car with it off/in park and stomp the gently caress out of the brake pedal. Shove as much force as you can into that thing, if something pops then you want to find it now rather than when someone cuts you off on the freeway.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2013 04:21
|
|
|
I thought one-wire alts were looked down upon, it's nice to have that remote sensing wire. Get 14.5V at the fuse block, instead at the back of the alternator. Plus you already have the GEN light, wouldn't be too hard to hook that up too.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2013 12:26
|
|
|
I would first remove the wire that goes to the stereo, that is your best bet for having your short. Or did you test continuity from your "everything not the engine" wire to ground with it disconnected from the battery terminal? If you have some electronics lab equipment I would put a current-limited supply where the battery usually is (limited to like an amp to hopefully not blow anything up) and then use a clamp-on ammeter to trace out what wire is hogging all the current (this will be your short to ground). I suppose you could replace the current limited supply with a wall-wart and an appropriate resistor, but it would be a fairly large resistor (12 ohm 12+ watt, assuming a 12V power supply). All that aside, you might just want to methodically disconnect things until your short goes away, then follow that wire and continue hooking up and disconnecting things in order to follow the short. I'd definitely start with just removing the modern stereo from the equation, POs are known to be very hackish when installing them.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2013 22:46
|
|
|
Are all of those things switched? Obviously the engine is, but the radio and interior lights? Do you lose your headlights too (which I assume are not switched)?
Raluek fucked around with this message at 07:23 on Jan 26, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2014 07:20
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:Radio gets power through the ignition switch, headlights do not. I don't remember now if the headlights went out or not. The dash lights, which are controlled through the headlight switch, definitely went out. Hmm. If un-switched things are going out, either something is shorting somewhere, or you've got a dodgy connection somewhere upstream of both your battery and your alternator. Take a good hard look at your fuse box? Corroded contacts, cracked bakelite, old fraying wires. I'm not sure if the headlight switch gets power from the fuse box, though. Some headlight switches (like my Ford) have little fuses inside the switch itself. E: BrokenKnucklez posted:One thing to definitely look into is the 1 wire alternator. It has a built in voltage regulator and is a pretty painless install. I actually don't like 1-wire alternators. I think it's better to have the alternator self-adjust so that you get 13.8V at your battery and fuse panel, rather than at the back of the alternator. It's not that hard to run two extra wires to switched power and always hot. Raluek fucked around with this message at 08:15 on Jan 26, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2014 08:11
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:Ok, I checked the timing tonight in the little bit of time I got before the light failed. Advanced timing should give you better fuel economy, assuming no detonation. A mityvac is the canonical way to test vacuum advance, but vacuum will be high at idle. So check timing at idle with it both plugged and unplugged, and that should give you an idea of if it's working.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2014 05:08
|
|
|
MrYenko posted:You don't want your idle mixture to be set at peak, because if you drive somewhere colder, or lower, or both, it'll be too lean, and stumble and run like poo poo. You need some wiggle room. (Unless you live in South Florida, where the climate is essentially the same every day, and the max elevation change is measured in single digits.) Come on, this is the bay area. It has rained like three times this whole winter. I think it went near freezing a couple times, maybe?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 23, 2014 23:54
|
|
|
Saw this at a car show this weekend, thought of you.  Sadly, a 350 swap. Also, forgive the scratch on my phone camera causing these all to come out kind of poo poo.
|
|
#
¿
May 21, 2014 02:22
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 01:28 |
|
|
Sad to see it go. You replacing it with that Opel GT?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 10, 2014 02:13
|
|