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BrokenKnucklez posted:Also when it comes to oil, I am not to familiar with Studebaker engines, but I can recommend Rotella T as a safe bet. Absolutely yes on this car. It has the same high pressure shear surfaces as our old junk, so it needs the same elevated ZDDP levels to coat and protect them from
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Jul 16, 2013 00:07
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Pham Nuwen posted:Ok, I had just bought some regular 10W-30, I'll return that and try to pick up a jug of Rotella 10W-30. If they have it in 30W as recommended by the owner's manual, should I get that instead? Yes, you want Rotella T 10w30. The reason the manual calls for straight 30 weight is because either there was no multigrade oil available at the time of writing or it was new and crappy. As mentioned the multigrade stuff will help you on cold starts plus the additive package will do a superior job on thermal breakdown, shear, cleaning, and fuel contamination. It's far superior to straight 30 weight. The recommendation for "Engine Restore" may come form people who are deluded enough to run straight 30 weight in their cars still. Yes, it is available. I use it. IN MY MOWER. It has no detergents or additives of any kind and is specifically labeled as such:  This is what goes in your landscaper-grade Kholer Magnum 20 powered 52" Scag walk behind mower because you know that some additives in regular motor oil build up and screw with things in this type of engine because of low oil pressure and temperatures when you only run it for an hour and a half a week instead of 6 days a week for 6 to 8 hours. It is a poor choice for any relatively modern-design car motor given the available choices today.
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Jul 16, 2013 01:26
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Pham Nuwen posted:$55 for a rebuild kit seems steep but god knows how old the rubber in there is, so I guess I should order one? Absolutely you should order one. Who know the last time it was rebuilt and supposedly the new kits are using slightly different materials that don't turn to mush with ethanol fuel. And feel lucky you have one carb. $55 is about what one kit costs for my Merc outboard. It has 3 carbs. 
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Jul 17, 2013 15:33
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Pham Nuwen posted:I changed out the air filter for a clean one, then took a stick of soft wood and tapped a bit where the fuel pipe enters the carb, at the suggestion of the Studebaker guys. Did you remember the chant and the ritual sacrifice as well? Seriously....WTF was that supposed to do? Pham Nuwen posted:Pulled a few spark plugs, they're quite black but not oily, seems like a dry carbon residue which apparently means it's running rich. This weekend I'll have more time to work on it, I'll take a shot at a compression test followed by replacing the spark plugs. What's the best way to prevent fuel from flowing into the engine during the compression test if I have a mechanical fuel pump? Why are you replacing plugs when you're still running rich? You're just going to foul the new ones. Rebuild your carb. My guess is there is no making it no run rich as-is because your seats are worn out and your float is probably mush and won't close/float anymore. How do you keep from flowing gas during the compression test? A wide pair of vise grips clamped on a fuel line. Not too hard, you don't want to damage it, just stop the flow.
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Jul 19, 2013 14:37
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mafoose posted:It can loosen a stuck float or needle valve. I've had an old carb that occasionally needed it. Nowadays if a carbd car gives me fits, its time for a weber or efi. Yeah.....if a float or a needle valve sticks once that's fine to get you home (although I've never quite heard of this particular procedure.....you just take off the air cleaner and smack it back down a couple of times...everything you need is already on the car). But, especially now with fuel that's eating plastic and rubber, that's a losing battle requiring a rebuild/replacement.
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Jul 19, 2013 15:05
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Pham Nuwen posted:This is a crosspost from the Stupid Questions Thread, but if anyone in the Bay Area with old car experience feels like meeting up at some point, I'd like to go over the car with another pair of eyes and get some opinions. I'm paranoid about the condition of the engine and the transmission, but I'm not sure what's to be expected on a 50 year old vehicle--should the engine sound like that, is that the right noise for the transmission to make, is the idle set right, etc. I'll be in San Francisco and Burlingame all next week. Where abouts are you?
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Jan 4, 2014 23:47
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Pham Nuwen posted:East Bay, Livermore specifically. Unfortunately that probably won't work for me. Since I'm in/around SF for my work I don't bother to get a car - it's more of a hinderance than anything. And I'm pretty sure Uber would charge me about $1500 to get out to where you are 
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Jan 5, 2014 00:17
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