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ya so its gonna burn like a few milliwatts at an LDO, no problem
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Mar 30, 2017 18:40
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thanks Bloody yes microcontrollers rule a lot and are badass. I like atmel's application notes too, they have general good practices papers and application or product specific documents that are educationnal and easy to read.
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Mar 30, 2017 19:12
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unpacked robinhood posted:e: also looking for advice to run 5v logic from a car. a 7805 with a diode somewhere and caps on the side ? isn't it going to heat a lot ? (expectation: the car should not catch fire)
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Mar 30, 2017 19:13
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:No USB/iPod/whatever connection to pull 5V from? My guess is you've got some to steal already. I try to rely on USB power for 5V logic as often as possible. The only one is on the front of the stereo itself on it will be ugly af to pick it from there. ideally I'd have everything as unobtrusive as possible
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Mar 30, 2017 19:20
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my arduino is great and fun and its visual studio IDE is great
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Mar 30, 2017 19:20
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unpacked robinhood posted:The only one is on the front of the stereo itself on it will be ugly af to pick it from there. ideally I'd have everything as unobtrusive as possible
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Mar 30, 2017 19:23
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My car got its window broken and ashtray (full of sunflower seeds) stolen and my low cost feelgood project was to install a flashing LED into a plastic cover for the cig lighter. So it totally looked line part of the car and was an intimidating looking security looking thing. To the kind of retards who'd bust a window for literally garbage but are not QUITE stupid enough to completely not give a gently caress, maybe Anyway joke was on me because the cig lighter disconnects when the car is off. I thought it was raw 12v with nothing in between  It did look totally like part of the car and not at all something I made from scavenged parts, though.
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Mar 30, 2017 20:12
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i used to be against using micros for simple things when i started my electronics hobby up again then i wanted to do something moderately complex (iirc specifically it was control SPI devices in my headphone amp + control a DDS chip to offset a local oscillator in my marine HF rig) and bought a bunch of atmega168s they are very needs suiting but now i'm playing around with some STM32F103s since i want to do more complicated systems and need more peripherals and RAM to comfortably use OLED displays
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Mar 30, 2017 20:16
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unpacked robinhood posted:e: also looking for advice to run 5v logic from a car. a 7805 with a diode somewhere and caps on the side ? isn't it going to heat a lot ? (expectation: the car should not catch fire) heat depends on the current drawn. how much do you need?
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Mar 30, 2017 20:21
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Sweevo posted:heat depends on the current drawn. how much do you need?
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Mar 30, 2017 20:25
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Tear apart a tiny cigarette lighter USB charger and wire it up behind the cigarette lighter. Bam 5V inside the dash. It's less fun than doin my own thing but why not. I just want my car to not combust really
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Mar 30, 2017 20:25
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Sagebrush posted:an Attiny85 costs roughly the same as a 555 in a dip package, requires zero external passives to emulate a 555, and can do a thousand times more stuff on top of that. sagebrush show us on this dip package doll where the nasty 555 hacker touched you (a long time ago they had a point tbqh, but these days it's funny/sad that the 555 fan club soldiers on long after moores law made highly integrated self sufficient micros just as pad limited as a 555)
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Mar 30, 2017 20:58
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so I've got my 68030@40MHz, a Picasso II video card, and 16MB of RAM and Amiga Doom still runs at 2fps for some reason current project: figure out why it's so slow
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Mar 30, 2017 20:57
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Luigi Thirty posted:so I've got my 68030@40MHz, a Picasso II video card, and 16MB of RAM and Amiga Doom still runs at 2fps for some reason quote:68030@40MHz prob your answer right there tbqh (idk how fast amiga doom should run on an 030 but iirc it's a fan port, and that engine had to be optimized by a wizard class coder to do reasonably well on the 386, so it wouldn't surprise me if the amiga version needs more cpu than the original pc game)
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Mar 30, 2017 21:29
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BobHoward posted:prob your answer right there tbqh it does but it should run better than 2fps... you need a 68040 and a P96 video card to get 35fps, I've got an 030 which should give acceptable speed
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Mar 30, 2017 21:34
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Luigi Thirty posted:it does but it should run better than 2fps... What resolution? My memory from 1993 is that I could run it on a 386 only in the minimum (which I think was 320x200 surrounded by a letterbox) resolution, while a 486 ran it acceptably at something more like 640x480. ...and those were running DOS 6.0-6.22, so basically bare metal.
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Mar 30, 2017 22:26
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The nice thing about a 555 is that you can stick together components like Lego pieces and get a result. Even a simple micro needs to be programmed and that's a hurdle that doesn't need to be there for newcomers. It's getting better and more accessible though. Btw pet peeve of mine is a lot of adafruit's sample code. On one hand they do shitloads of work to make things accessible and learnable. Then they write all their software in engineerese like this as though they pay per character or something. code:Like you couldn't imagine that newbies will want to look at your code to a) tweak things, or b) try to understand what's happening by reading it.
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Mar 30, 2017 22:31
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ulmont posted:What resolution? My memory from 1993 is that I could run it on a 386 only in the minimum (which I think was 320x200 surrounded by a letterbox) resolution, while a 486 ran it acceptably at something more like 640x480. 320x200. ADoom is a port of Linux Doom yeah. It's got rendering code optimized for chunky graphics on 68Ks. The problem isn't so much the processor as Agnus is no good for chunky graphics. I have a video card so it should be rendering straight to a buffer in VRAM using the CPU just like the DOS version. Zorro II is slow but one frame is only 64KB, Z2 can transfer 2MB/sec. IIRC an ECS 68030 plus RTG video card is the bare minimum, an AGA 68040 is better, and a 68060 will run it at full speed. Luigi Thirty fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Mar 30, 2017 |
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Mar 30, 2017 23:44
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aha. tried a different Doom port and this one works great on 030s. it's a port from the mid-90s instead of 2009 there's even a ZDoom port but it needs an 040 
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Mar 31, 2017 06:48
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Tear apart a tiny cigarette lighter USB charger and wire it up behind the cigarette lighter. Bam 5V inside the dash. i recommend this as well. those little chargers have good-enough regulation and filtering for low-power 5v devices and they're like two bucks on amazon. cheaper and easier than anything you can make yourself. BobHoward posted:sagebrush show us on this dip package doll where the nasty 555 hacker touched you it's just kind of a ridiculous suggestion to give a beginner these days. i learned about pulses and oscillators and such with 555s and a big box of passives, but the process of using discrete hardware like that to actually make something is so tedious and slow. maybe it's just because i'm approaching it as an educator, and my primary goal is to keep people engaged with their learning, but i can't imagine telling someone who wants to make an LED fade on and off "ok, first we have to talk about RC time constants and transistor-transistor logic" when i can hand them an arduino and an LED and have them changing numbers to get the effect they want in 90 seconds. if you specifically want to hack around with the analog electronics, go nuts, buy a lifetime supply of timers. i personally think it's more effective to start with the higher-level stuff and then dig down into the grit if you find you really like it, than it is to insist on building up the concepts from first principles and only get to do the cool stuff after months of nitpicking resistor values. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Mar 31, 2017 |
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Mar 31, 2017 07:22
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I built my first 4-digit display and timer circuit after being inspired by digging through 1970s pinball schematics lol
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Mar 31, 2017 07:34
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Oooh so my car stereo may or may not have an IR receiver, depending on which JVC docs i look at. it wont react to my aliexpress remote though I assume the remote works because it puts out pulses that look a lot like the ones described in this old pdf (CONFIDENTIAL) it may also be "steering remote ready" which brings up pretty vague results e: there's a single blue wire that dangles out the back labelled "steering remote" e2: this guy already did my project the wire in the back would go to a pullup inside and takes the data the output pin from an ir demodulator would give. so i'd just feed it unmodulated signals with the correct timings by pulling the line down unpacked robinhood fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Mar 31, 2017 |
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Mar 31, 2017 12:46
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http://www.microchip.com/Developmen...m_source=Eloqua atmel's selling the latest attiny evaluation boards for $8.88 free shipping fyi if you want some attiny
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Mar 31, 2017 19:09
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A colleague of mine at the Wilds went to a basic arduino / solder / electronics course at the toledo zoo for building your own low cost gps data logger (I think some grad students did this for a project and were presenting their work). Its missing some stuff that they're still working on (like, actual storage beyond the 1kb on the pro mini they used, and wireless communication to a base station so they don't have to try and manually retrieve it off of whatever animal they strapped it to), and I was asked if I could help him source parts for more. I gave him a banggood / aliexpress / ebay part list, but also found this bugger https://www.talk2store.wisen.com.au/product-page/talk-whisper-node-avr its pretty much everything I could want for this application so I bought a 3 pack and am going to work on the wireless comm bit. I talked to the dev and he estimated a year off of a pair of AAs, polling gps and sending off a transmission every hour.
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Mar 31, 2017 19:44
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Also gonna send the application for Flugtag in nashville this weekend. They hosed with the rules again and dropped total wing span from 28 to 24 feet, so the team wants to try a biplane design. Easy Riser glider is the inspiration. I'm hopin I can get the cnc foam cutter working tonight
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Mar 31, 2017 19:50
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Luigi Thirty posted:http://www.microchip.com/Developmen...m_source=Eloqua i like the SUFFER register
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Mar 31, 2017 22:49
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Oscilloscope pong seems relevent to this thread (nice manhattan construction inside)
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Apr 4, 2017 17:55
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manhattan construction owns
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Apr 4, 2017 18:02
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Apr 5, 2017 05:01
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this question might be better directed to a more specific forum but gently caress it so i am gradually moving forwards on getting my awesome amber OLED screens to make my awesome Aliens-style digital instrument cluster for my motorcycle. the company is actually spinning up a factory line just to make the samples i ordered. fuckin rad. while i wait for that to happen, though, i've got a different display that uses the same controller to prototype with. i want the absolute fastest update rate i can get. at least 30hz and ideally faster. it's a 256x64 pixel buffer (monochrome, though with 4-bit grayscale). i'm probably gonna use a teensy 3.2 or the like, with a 72MHz ARM. the display can use 4-wire SPI, 6800 parallel, or 8080 parallel. which of those methods would give me the fastest update rate? like, logically I assume the parallel would be faster...but the chip has dedicated SPI hardware with a FIFO, and parallel would be driven in software. I also don't know the difference between 6800 mode and 8080 mode. any ideas?
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Apr 5, 2017 05:09
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6800 and 8080 mode are just different bus interfaces based on Motorola vs Intel standards, one's tuned for Motorola 680x usage and one for Intel 808x usage you might be able to implement a sort of LED framebuffer with DMA over SPI which would lower the microcontroller cycles needed for display output
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Apr 5, 2017 06:12
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I did something very similar except with a car and 16 bit controller, also with a teensy 3.1 or 3.2. In my experience you can get a dash thing plenty fast, way above 30hz, with software parallel using a bit of assembly and application specific optimizations. However if I were you I'd start by trying whatever spi libraries work for your controller unless you're really into bit janitoring and self harm. In any case minimizing the amount of drawing you do is gonna be half the battle
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Apr 5, 2017 09:56
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you're a madman
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Apr 5, 2017 10:08
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typed this out and maybe it's redundant with the other answers but w/e 256*64*0.5*8*60 = 3.932160 Mbps needed to refresh the thing at 60 Hz then you'll need some extra for overhead, obvs whatever protocol the display wants to use won't be able to use every bit sent as display data. this all sounds in the range of what spi can do, i've seen plenty of spi devices advertise speeds of 10 MHz, 20 MHz, even 50 MHz. so if the display's SPI and the uC's SPI interfaces can both run suitably fast, just use SPI re: the other option, if your uC has no built in 6800 or 8080 bus interface hardware, then yeah you'll be bitbanging everything through GPIOs, and that's gonna make life "interesting". your uC will need to be able to toggle its gpio pins super fast (atmega avr chips usually can, but be careful, not all uCs can do this, especially ones with faster arm cores). you'll also end up needing to write some tite cycle counted assembly to drive it
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Apr 5, 2017 10:14
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Did some tutorials and tried some image capture stuff in Android studio, it's simultaneously very impressive and kind of awful.
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Apr 7, 2017 23:11
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now that I have the computer able to just pick random moves I'm trying to figure out how to do OS-friendly bitmap graphics in AmigaOS 3 instead of just Text() and DrawCircle() it's pretty weird and there are quite a few ways to do it, some object oriented and some just bizarre IFF file parsing since my game is low-res I can do 32-from-1024 color graphics which is cool
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Apr 7, 2017 23:41
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i used my new DSO to troubleshoot a real thing for the first time   those are supposed to be square waves and the lesson is "you need to use something better than a 5-for-a-dollar AliExpress MOSFET-based level shifter if you want to successfully translate a high-speed signal" gonna get some 74HCT245 and see if those work better
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Apr 9, 2017 19:22
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this is an optoisolator, 5 goes to a pullup pin inside another device. is it the correct way to bring it to ground when the led side is active ?  e: rigol kinda means lol in french, it's funny to see it on badass serious equipment like this
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Apr 10, 2017 08:58
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Luigi Thirty posted:now that I have the computer able to just pick random moves I'm trying to figure out how to do OS-friendly bitmap graphics in AmigaOS 3 instead of just Text() and DrawCircle() There's a bunch of blitting functions in graphics.library but tbh when it comes to graphics programming amigaos was kinda garbage even in its time You'd have more fun banging directly on the hardware and building your own copper lists which with some work you can do while remaining os friendly Also if you haven't done so look for the leaked amigaos source code on bit torrent it's kinda fun to see the c source for all that old crap
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Apr 10, 2017 10:07
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unpacked robinhood posted:this is an optoisolator, 5 goes to a pullup pin inside another device. calling rigol "badass serious equipment" is a bit of a stretch. theyre $300-400 dollar made in china scopes (with easily bypassed software licensing). they're great for what they are and what they cost, but its definitely hobby equipment 30 TO 50 FERAL HOG fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Apr 10, 2017 |
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Apr 10, 2017 14:11
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