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It's very likely a bad solder joint in the preamp/power section or one or more of those TO-92s ate it. I'm sure you've gone over it a hundred times but maybe get it under some magnification if you can. If you swapped out all the electrolytics and it's still making crumpling noises there's not much else it's likely to be. The transistors in those amps get yucky and bad with age, but good replacements are definitely easy to find. Cool project details btw thanks dude!
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Oct 28, 2016 21:39
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That's a good call. And yeah a coupling cap that's leaking can manifest like that cause it'll mess with the bias on the transistors. You're getting close imo lol.
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Oct 29, 2016 10:58
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http://dangerousprototypes.com/store/pcbs These guys have been ownage for me so far. They ship clean boards fast and they're CHEAP. Also I've left double sided silkscreen on all my orders and they've come back that way at no additional charge. Easy to communicate with and they tweet you updates. Highly goon recc'd.
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Nov 24, 2016 07:33
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That's a really cool and good way to spend your time. Don't worry about scraping the mask off unless you absolutely need to though, just solder directly to the component on the trace.
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Jan 23, 2017 11:08
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:I don't do it unless I have to. I'd go directly to the component, but those little circles you see are the component. a little silicone shape holds a pad that comes down and connects the traces. I WISH i had a real button on there. Yes my dude I read you BUT in this case the trace path isn't critical for timing or anything so all you have to do with the switch is short those two traces. The easiest way is to follow the trace to a soldered component and bang your lead into the existing solder. You can solder to the bottom leg of that three pin job on the right (or the top side of C22) with one lead and follow the opposing trace to the correct leg on the chip and solder the other one there. AND in reality depending on where that trace goes once it disappears under the chip, you might just need to short two of the pins on that original three pin component.  Obviously it's your project so do whatever, but there is an easier way.
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Jan 24, 2017 10:52
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netwerk23 posted:A neighbor around the corner from me was moving and asked if I wanted their old XBox 360, for free. Problem was it had a red-ring failure. I accepted, followed a guide and replaced the thermal grease, new bolts, reflowed the solder, etc. Great, all buttoned back up. Now, the problem is when the thing died on them, they tossed the PSU. It's a Halo 3 edition green one. The 360's some friends of mine have are non Xenon/Zephyers so I can't borrow their PSUs to see if the fix was a success or not. I don't want to spend $30 on one from GameStop to find out the repair was bad, and I can't find a cheap one on craigslist or ebay. Take it to Games Pot and regale them with your tale of woe and suggest selling it to them. They will plug it in for you no problem. Bring an ugly woman with you for expedited service.
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Jan 31, 2017 20:29
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Trig don't beat your wife every night, chew Wrigley's. loving solid A+
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Feb 5, 2017 17:58
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The right angle Neutrik ones are really nice. I don't think any of the common quality brands use a spring for strain relief but those ones use a rubber bushing that works really well.
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Feb 10, 2017 08:14
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That looks like preamble, "data", clock, "data" to me but I have no idea if that's right. So you could probably cut it down a lot.
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Feb 12, 2017 14:42
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Truly cool as gently caress. You gonna do a graphical masked overlay for part of it like KITT or M.A.S.K. or whatever? Definitely need a wheelie indicator.
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Feb 21, 2017 19:43
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Interesting that the only non pentode is the phase inverter. Probably sounds awesome and has a fair amount of gain? Those voltage selectors are nifty as hell too.
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Mar 15, 2017 20:35
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because it's a mixer they might have wanted more gain? looks like the whole series was like that. pentodes usually are a little crunchier though and god knows how good the og ones still in there are but fuckin lol if you even unplugged them. i mean except to like deoxIT the sockets. did you do any other mods or gently caress with the bias after you swapped the rectifier?
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Mar 15, 2017 22:24
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To answer the question, that should work. What's the application?
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Apr 10, 2017 18:47
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i'm starting to get into DipTrace and it's fairly dope. the package editor or whatever is good. i absolutely hate spending time working on library stuff in eagle tho so ymmv.
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Apr 11, 2017 17:41
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haha he was surely loving around did you get the stock output transformer or did you go for the beefier one? those things sound good with a diode rectifier too if you feel like adding a mod at some point. transistor amps can kick rear end. i had an old acoustic control 150 and it was LOUD and sounded kinda like a mesa rectifier.
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May 30, 2017 20:58
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nothing will punch you in the chest quite like that and the clean channels are ridic good.
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May 30, 2017 21:22
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xoxbox?
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Jul 13, 2017 15:59
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Steve Reich would be proud god drat son.
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Sep 15, 2017 12:35
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dirtypcbs is fine. a more expensive board will be easier to desolder.
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Sep 18, 2017 22:09
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Buy some finish screws glargwhrglabal Cool poo poo!
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Oct 5, 2017 17:21
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Lol gently caress you that just made me flashback
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Oct 5, 2017 18:42
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That connector looks like a molex microlock kinda. That'd be the wrong pitch though I think. It's definitely a 1x15 'molex' wire to board connector/socket of some type though if that helps.
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Oct 13, 2017 23:26
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My buddy sent me a PCB that he wanted me to work on and the pads and drill hole sizes are all over the place. Is there a batch pad edit in diptrace or what's the easiest way to bring them in line? I don't want to replace every one manually if poss.
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Oct 28, 2017 20:22
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They tell you how to pop out the driver in the service manual, but it can be hard to get legit replacements. So go through actual retailers not ebay. People swap them out all the time and i'm sure that's how you wound up with a borked pair. Those little speakers take a lot of abuse and with frequent use actually need to be replaced regularly cause they wear out, so you want to replace them both anyway. Especially since there's no real guarantee you're going to get the same driver you have. In any case break them in for a few days after you do the swap because more than any other headphone they improve after a little burn in.
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Nov 14, 2017 12:33
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The chinese copy drivers are ok if you can get them cheap. They're usually lower impedance and won't handle a watt of power like the og ones, but they'll sound fine enough for normal loud listening.
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Nov 14, 2017 16:28
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Sagebrush posted:filing down a round shaft takes about 2 minutes, do it This. They're soft AF. Also if you mean an AC buzz outside the audio system, it's probably a delaminating or loose power transformer which can be an easy fix. If it's in the audio system, look for cold solder joints, shady grounds and check the big power filter caps to see if they''re still within spec.
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Nov 23, 2017 23:06
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My neighbors did one of those shows and from their experience it's great if you want to grover yourself. They asked us to be the annoying neighbors next door who were pissed off and offered a couple hundred bucks and we were like lol gently caress no.
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Jan 10, 2018 21:44
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Schadenboner posted:So just murder the camera crew and leave their bodies do be devoured by the apes of the jungle. On second thought yeah go for it.
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Jan 10, 2018 22:25
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Hey I'm looking for the smallest spst toggle or latching button switches that you can get and I'm struggling with search terms. Something like the micro switches in a game controller but latching. If somebody could help me out that'd be chiiiiiilllll. 
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Mar 7, 2018 18:47
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Those are the best I've seen so far. Thanks a lot I've been pulling my hair out on Alibaba lol. I'd consider smaller smt ones if you know where to find them. I struggle with finding caps and poo poo. Like the button to reset a router through the little hole but latching? I'm not sure that's even a thing tho. EDIT - With your help I think I found the search term for those little bastards: latching tactile switch. muckswirler fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Mar 7, 2018 |
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Mar 7, 2018 20:09
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galaxy audio makes one with an analog output if you can do a/d conversion. might be around a hundred bucks new?
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Mar 11, 2018 11:51
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Do you need new ones? Might be able to ask around and find some used ones.
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Mar 23, 2018 17:17
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Sagebrush check the ground connection and make sure that they're functioning properly. Are they stereo? 300 ohms isn't really that much and unless they're extremely low sensitivity most devices should drive them fine. It does take a little more oomph than a pair of earbuds tho. If you want to build yourself an amp though look at either of these chips: http://www.ti.com/product/tpa6138a2 or other chips in that series make sure to put a couple microfarad decoupling cap right up next to the supply pins and you're gtg or http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa6120a2.pdf if you want the option to drive it a little harder and use a more robust power supply topology or http://www.ti.com/product/LM4881 if you want to use as few external components as possible
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Mar 26, 2018 08:42
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You know you could just learn to play the piano  (that's rad)
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Mar 28, 2018 08:05
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open that vocoder up and bring it out front we want to hear it trig!
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Mar 28, 2018 21:56
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owns all the bones
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Mar 29, 2018 20:09
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Jonny 290 posted:impedance is not even sorta consistent from 20hz-20khz and it'll eat more current from the phone on bass hits than on hihats of an equivalent voltage yep this is exactly why they sound tinny. because they're looking for more current than you can currently provide to reproduce bass frequencies. just guessing, but their sensitivity is probably at least 12dB down from hifi cans. don't worry about building something and blowing them up. as long as you don't crank the input to your amp you should be fine. you can actually drive headphones from a power amp with a resistor network. also anything you find that will drive 600 ohm cans will drive those no problem. all this is assuming that we're not dealing with mic circuitry or anything goofy. here's a calculator that'll get you in the ballpark but you don't need that: http://www.digizoid.com/headphones-power.html (remember 110dB is too loud and if you're measuring 320 ohms, you're going to want to round up) a hundred or two mW should be more than enough to get them moving. if you want to do the dumb thing and hook them up to your Marshall here you go: https://diyaudioheaven.wordpress.com/tutorials/power-amp-adapter/ Also some interesting charts in there. but yeah any of those chips posted earlier will work and if you intend to power them from a supply instead of batteries you'll have no issues.
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Mar 29, 2018 22:03
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Sweevo posted:true. but does that really start affecting anything until you get to higher frequencies (30mhz+?) and start pushing the limits with respect to chip timing? As long as there's sufficient decoupling, it should be good up significantly higher than that. (See: an orange local decoupling cap at the + rail of every chip.) If you aren't doing RF tx/rx, it's just good design practice tho, right?
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Apr 2, 2018 08:41
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haveblue posted:welp, looks like I learn to solder now. there doesn't seem to be any combination of parts available that can do everything I want without it get a temp controlled iron, a hakko style tip cleaner, a sucker and some wick from the get and you won't have any problems
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Apr 4, 2018 17:01
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napkin math ~210 amps based on like 75% of the cross-sectional area of the penny. it's going to depend on the ability to dissipate the heat.
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Apr 11, 2018 13:43
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