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not a computer thing, but i want to take this part-time woodworking course, if only they'd publish start dates and fees  my hope is to one day become as much of a spergtastic woodworking genius as this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unDVtGto7es https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcDshWmhF4A
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Jul 24, 2013 23:51
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjpWejUEYzQ
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Jul 24, 2013 23:54
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Smythe posted:at the end of the day you've got a decent stack of money, callused hands, a pickup full of sawdust, and an honest living. carpentry is truly the most noble profession, as jesus christ our lord and saviour proved.
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Jul 25, 2013 09:55
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The Best Christmas posted:was gonna say "you could be a teacher" but I have no clue if america has shop classes i went to middle school toronto (lol, gently caress you) and we had a semester of shop class in both grades 7 and 8. got to use a bandsaw.  because it was actually "design technology" we also learned basic engineering stuff. we were divided into teams had to build an "oil derrick" of a minimum height out of straws, hot glue and squares of cardboard, which were then tested by putting weights on top. the one that held the most weight won. we got a set amount of supplies at the beginning and we could "buy" more in exchange for a reduction in the recorded load capacity of the derrick; so if you bought 5 hot glue sticks you would have 100g docked from your final load or whatever. my design didn't use any extra supplies and still held twice as much as any one else's. maybe i should've been a structural engineer?
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Jul 25, 2013 10:04
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echinopsis posted:heh so ive been wanting to electronic it up a bit and tonight discovered this http://www.fasttech.com/products/1008/10000015/1001700-arduino-uno-r3-rev3-development-board and its prolly overkill for anything yeah who cares i think its gonna be a fun thing to start loving around with that's a screen off a 5110, so clearly you must play snake on it. write your own version in avr assembly because you can.
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Jul 25, 2013 12:09
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i saw a post on reddit (trap sprung) by this guy who used to work in congress whos made an app that alerts you whenever congress is voting on something, and lets you indicate how youd vote and tells you how your congressmen voted. he says the bells in congress are radio controlled, so he has a computer set up somewhere in/near congress (i'm assuming it's in one of his friend's offices) that detects the signals and triggers the notification in the app. its pretty cool. https://vimeo.com/70741310 cause i know nothing about programming or computers, and since i've worked in parliament and still have pretty easy access to the building and to staff there, i was thinking of building a similar app for britain. in fact, ive been thinking about making a similar app for over a year now, but now that i know someone else is doing something similar, i'm more confident about going ahead. if parliament's bells are radio controlled, i could make the signal detector thing out of a raspi with an i2c? it'd be cool to teach myself how to make an app and do some hardware stuff too. my programming knowledge is pretty much nonexistent at this point, but why not learn by doing? i don't want to monetise it, and i don't know if i'll even publicly distribute it, but it'd be cool to do it for my own interest.
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Jul 26, 2013 11:56
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Sweevo posted:
yeah, probably i did find some info about an proof of concept app for parsing/displaying parliamentary annunciator data that a group of folks made at a 'hack parliament' event last year: quote:Challenge number one was the source data. The annunciator system is entirely proprietary, very old and was conceived in a time before networks, never mind the internet. The nice Parly people gave us a dump of the data for 4 hours in the Lords last Thursday, and we went from there.
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Jul 26, 2013 12:50
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"whats's this strange box doing here?"
"zomg ur hacking da govment!"
"you are sentenced to 80 years in prison for treason"
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the current parliamentary annunciator system (tv screens with who's speaking, what the debate's about, how long they've been speaking...etc) is directly descended from electromechanical victorian tech that printed onto paper tape.
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Jul 26, 2013 12:53
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toured the london hackspace today. poo poo's super cool and it'll be a great place to work on projects: http://wiki.london.hackspace.org.uk/view/London_Hackspace however, it's basically a volunteer-run anarchist collective that communicates via a mailing list. the more advanced tools (lathe/mill/laser cutter/3d printers...etc) are the subject of so much drama on the mailing list, it's hilarious. people breaking the machines, people complaining the machines are broken...etc the biggest thing, which is a huge red flag for me, is that people who are the experts in a particular machine basically own them, and decide who gets to use them and who can maintain them. so you have machines that like 3 people are allowed to use (they're locked), and 1 guy knows how to maintain, and they won't train anyone else how to use or maintain them because they're too busy. anyway, i'm going to make a really simple project to start out with. i could use hand tools but i'll try and use the laser cutter if i can. behold, the e z stirling: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klbBn_3ufV8
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Jul 31, 2013 12:09
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Jonny 290 posted:i want to hackerspace so bad but i do not really have a burning desire to get endless piles of angry phone calls and emails when somebody forgets to sweep around the grinder whats lafayetteville hackerspace like? 
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Jul 31, 2013 14:46
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so there's a kickstarter for an inexpensive sous-vide immersion circulator ($199, compared to $999 for ones currently on the market). i was initially gonna buy it, but then i saw that the guy doing the kickstarter already posted plans for a homemade one that costs $75.  basically, you have a resistance thermometer which plugs into a pid controller. the pid controller outputs to a solid state relay, which cycles a set of immersion heaters. you circulate the water using an immersible pump, so the temperature is even across the tank. here's a barebones version (with only 1 coil): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJxRM6Pk7A4 gonna make a few chages tho: the original plans call for a set of 3 110v 300w immersion heaters, but i'm thinking of using a single 1000w (or 1500w) coil, so there's one less point of failure. my knowledge of electronics is terrible, though: does 1 1000w coil output (generally) as much heat as 3 300w coils? my other thought is that this would reduce the load on the solid state relay, which i gather tends to get very hot. does this make sense? the coils burn out in a few seconds if they aren't immersed. the obvious solution to this is to not be an idiot, but i was thinking of adding a floater switch as a failsafe, connected to the dc out on the pid. speaking of failsafes, i think i'll add a circuit breaker, but i don't know what amperage i should use. the relay is rated to 25a, but uk mains are 13a, so i dunno which makes more sense for a breaker. the original plans call for you to use an immersible aquarium pump, but they aren't foodsafe or rated for anywhere near the temps sous-vide reaches. so i'll use this food-safe, rated-to-boiling one instead. i could mount it on a little probe like this  but i think instead i'll partially integrate it into the case with a grommet like this (bottom left), as it's not officially submersible beyond 50 celsius:  i'll run stainless steel tubing to it for the inputs and outputs. i'd need a power supply for the pump, but i want the whole device to be relatively simple looking so i don't want to use a wall wart in addition to the existing ac in so i think i'll use one of these 12v led power supplies connected to the same circuit as the coil and pid. would that work? since ive got access to a laser cutter at my hackspace, i think i'll make my own enclosure out of two layers of acrylic, basically a white box inside a transparent one. with this setup i think i could actually make it so the pid's faceplate is flush with the surface of the case (going for stebe-like sleekness again). this will involve chemical welding, though, which i'm bad at and which can easily smudge transparent acrylic. if possible, the coil/probe/pump will be covered with a stainless mesh shroud to prevent the food bags from coming into contact with the coils and burning. i have a tendency to dream big dreams with these sorts of projects but fall short of actually starting them. so i feel like i need to motivate myself by putting some financial skin in the game and just buying the parts. so at least if i fail ill feel guilty about it. Nelson MandEULA fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Aug 12, 2013 |
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Aug 11, 2013 23:55
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oh poo poo that really ended up long. i spent a good 4 hours today thinking about this project but hadn't written anything down until now, so i guess i shat my thoughts all over the pos  . i'd be cool if any of you goonsires could give me some feedback/support though; i know a lot of you guys are smarter than me at this sort of poo poo.
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Aug 11, 2013 23:56
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peepsalot posted:No. 1000W is more load than 900W. At 1000W/220V = 4.5 A. This is well under the 25A rating of your relay, but those SSRs are sometimes overrated and even then that rating is probably assuming an ideal heatsink. You might still need to heatsink it. do you reckon a single 1000w or 1500w coil would heat the water about as quickly as three 300w coils? i read somewhere that the ssr manufacturer's guidelines say you must use a heatsink, so i'll definitely be getting one. peepsalot posted:you should only be drawing 4.5 amp as above, maybe get a 5 or 6A breaker. okay, cool. peepsalot posted:isn't your food sealed in a watertight bag? does it really have to be food safe? also that pump is rated to 65C, not boiling. argh, that's the wrong pump! here's the one i think i'll use. (oh snap i just realised it isn't self-priming...) i just figured that, for the same price, why not go with a foodsafe one. non food-safe sketchy ebay-purchased plastics+hot water+food+long periods of time is something i'd rather avoid. the vacuum seal isn't perfect, and eggshells are porous, so better safe than sorry. peepsalot posted:an led driver might not appreciate an inductive load like a motor. yeah, i figured that'd be a problem. what kind of driver would i need for that kind of load? Nelson MandEULA fucked around with this message at 12:56 on Aug 12, 2013 |
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Aug 12, 2013 12:49
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ol qwerty bastard posted:Motor drivers are surprisingly simple to build and you get to learn about diodes and such Phobeste posted:Yah honestly if you are looking for a power supply you could do worse than just a generic wall wart w/ barrel jack. Make sure your motor has some flyback protection and get like an actual motor driver chip (or build your own i know i'm an idiot but whats the advantage of using a driver versus just plugging it straight into the dc? everyone i've seen make this thing has just wired it up to the wall wart. 
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Aug 12, 2013 13:59
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i've been doing research for my sous vide thing and holy gently caress ive fallen down a rabbit hole. every question brings more questions: do you want to build a sous vide machine? yes. ok. do you know how PID controllers work? no. do you want to know? sure. do you remember high school calc? no. okay, relearn all that poo poo, then research how a pid works. now, do you want to use a regular pid controller or an arduino? i dunno. okay, research them. okay. i guess i want to use an arduino because its more customisable. great! what kind of temperature sensor do you want to use? a pt100. cool. that's insanely and unnecessarily complex for this application, but i like your gusto! do you have an ic in mind to amplify the voltage? huh? okay, research that and decide. now, what ui do you want? an lcd and four buttons. you know you'll need a contrast pot for that, right? ugh. that sounds unnecessary! i'll just set it once and never use it again. can't i use a resistor instead? sure, but you'll need a voltage divider. what's that? research it. okay, now, here are the libraries you'll need for the pid software. you just need to write the code to get your pt100 to talk to it, and the 328p to talk to the ssr. got it? but i don't know python! learn it. now, that should all be done! you know how to wire it up, right? which resistors/caps/transistors to use? no. do you know anything about any of those things? no. okay, learn about them. now, what form factor do you want to use? well, my hackspace has a solder reflow oven, so maybe i could use that... do you know how smd and solder reflow works? no, i can barely solder. you know you're biting off more than you can chew, right? ...yes, but i'll do it dammit! oh christ...
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Aug 21, 2013 00:04
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yospos i'm going insane. it's poo poo i don't know all the way down. like, what the gently caress is this?!?  jonny, pls tell me that you were as naive as i was before you built raspberry high...
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Aug 21, 2013 00:05
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coffeetable posted:this is a great thing you're doing, jumping in at the deep end. you'll learn an unbelievable amount if you stick with it, but it's going to take a while and you can't hope to do it all in one go. phew, thanks. it's good to know that i'm not being too stupid for jumping into this head-first.  you're right: i've got to eat the elephant one bite at a time, as it were.i guess my first task is to go out and buy an arduino and go from there. any recommendations of which model i should get?
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Aug 21, 2013 00:27
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Sagebrush posted:you could just do this yeah that's actually what i was initially looking at when i decided to try arduino rather than a normal off-the-rack pid controller. i will definitely base my design off of it to a large extent, and probably use their code. i don't actually want to integrate the full arduino into the final device, though.
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Aug 21, 2013 00:48
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peepsalot posted:PID is proportional, integral, differential that's a very good concise explanation of it, which is surprisingly hard to find on the internet. i like this video because it explains it using a car analogy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfAt6hNV8XM
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Aug 21, 2013 00:57
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Dr. Honked posted:you'll need to explain this bit as in i want to use the arduino as a testbed and usb interface to program the microcontroller, then pop out the microcontroller and build a circuit around it from scratch. so i can just buy another 328 and reuse the arduino. like so: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCGzKDTFBSQ&t=855s
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Aug 21, 2013 01:11
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Jonny 290 posted:https://github.com/jonny290/yosvape/blob/master/yosvape.ino did you autotune the yosvape, or tune it manually?
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Aug 21, 2013 09:18
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Bloody posted:actually dealing with solving the differential equations for a tepid pool machine sounds completely overkill. stick in a large K, a medium D, and a small I and try it out. uh i'll stick with my large d, thanks very much. 
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Aug 21, 2013 16:23
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Jonny 290 posted:nah i started with some generic constants and then tuned a _bit_ but not even much. then i just proportionally bumped those up for the less active modes. who knew weed could be so complicated?!
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Aug 21, 2013 16:24
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i think for my purposes i'll just use the arduino autotune library.
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Aug 21, 2013 16:25
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Bloody posted:are you afraid of c? yes, i am afraid of c. i'm not afraid to admit it... you guys know that the most coding i've ever done was html when i was like 9?
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Aug 21, 2013 16:27
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Bloody posted:if you wanna actually learn from your idiot spare time project do it in c it won't be that bad and you'll learn a whole bunch i was gonna go for the atmega328p
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Aug 21, 2013 16:33
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i really want to be cool and awesome and etch my own pcb and surface mount everything cause i deserve the best techmology has to offer.  i had the idea of adding an rfid reader and labelling my sealed food with rfid stickers so you could just tap the sticker on the machine and it would set itself to the right temperature. one can dream... 
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Aug 21, 2013 16:43
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Bloody posted:don't bother etching your own because getting good-looking pcbs done elsewhere is insanely cheap and the results are way better than you can do yourself, particularly when you need SMD tolerances. also, soldering smd by hand really is not difficult, the only bits i avoid are 0201s, packages without leads (eg QFN), and physically inaccessible packages (eg BGA). pretty much everything else is really not particularly difficult even with lovely equipment. surface tension is kinda magical. yeah, i guess i'll stop short of etching it myself. although the hackspace does have a proper etching tank i wouldn't trust myself to be able to produce anything to smd tolerances. we have a real reflow oven though, so that's good. none of this pid-controlled toaster oven bs.
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Aug 21, 2013 16:54
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ol qwerty bastard posted:more python graphics stuff: can u make it draw goatse?
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Aug 21, 2013 16:55
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Bloody posted:my dirt cheap board shop of choice is http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order because you get excellent quality boards for dirt cheap if you can sometimes wait a week or two i'm onto you shill!
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Aug 21, 2013 17:00
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i have what i guess you might call "numeracy" problems. like, i drop digits in my head, or swap 4s and 5s, and drop negative signs. so i get the general concepts, but actually doing maths in any practical sense has always been really difficult for me. hence why i dropped from higher level to standard level to maths "studies" in my IB. 
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Aug 21, 2013 23:07
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Apocadall posted:so write all your steps down? and double check your poo poo? we don't all have magic brains that can do calculus in our head, most are good at math just because they practiced it and put effort into it i do this when i'm writing poo poo down and reviewing it. it's a legit problem, not just slopiness/laziness.
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Aug 21, 2013 23:16
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like, i'm trying to fix this now, but it's a bit difficult to just jump back into it after failing at it pretty much constantly for my entire life.
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Aug 21, 2013 23:18
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Sagebrush posted:today i fixed my dork hat that i use to track my head's position in flight sims. basically i was having a ton of problems with the overhead lights so i installed a sharp cut infrared filter on the camera but i guess it wasn't the same frequency as the ir leds i was using (grabbed them from the parts box a couple years ago) cause i lost about 90% of my image. ergo i had to buy new leds of the same frequency (850nm). this time upgraded to 10mm leds for a much larger spot at each vertex and sanded them until they're all frosty smooth so that i get a good image from all angles. so far: much smoother tracking and better viewing angles and i can leave the overhead light on too 
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Aug 22, 2013 09:38
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also i'm vista running on an apple cinema display. how dare u desecrate stebe's legacy like that? 
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Aug 22, 2013 09:38
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i'm really loving learning about electronics. this enthusiastic australian man with a slightly annoying voice is the best: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXE_dh38HjU
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Aug 23, 2013 10:56
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Mr. Apollo posted:Techshop is really cool and I wish there was one near me. I really like building things because there's something satisfying about finishing a project and being able to stand back and look at what you've created. just looked that up. why doesn't something like this exist in the uk? hackspace is okay but its full of smelly nerds and half the equipment is out of service at any given time.
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Aug 23, 2013 14:45
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Sweevo posted:and why he posts hour long videos of himself opening his mail an electronics nerd is a sperg? well colour me shocked!
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Aug 24, 2013 11:46
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Bloody posted:didnt watch but dfm is pretty easy just keep all trace angles oblique and use as few different parts as possible yeah thats essentially what he conveys but he takes an hour to do it. it's worth a watch anyway cause none of us have anything better to do
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Aug 24, 2013 17:54
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| # ¿ Sep 24, 2023 12:05 |
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Raluek posted:yeah, wip
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Sep 2, 2013 09:30
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