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 working on my first iphone game.
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Oct 8, 2013 00:37
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Zlodo posted:im not very familiar with es but doesn't es 1.0 actually only implement the fixed pipeline and shaders were only introduced in es 2.0? yes, es 1.0 is fixed-function only. es 2.0 is shaders only.
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Oct 18, 2013 00:03
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cool, now do one that's a dragon
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Oct 20, 2013 01:20
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Got an oscilloscope. Don't really have any use for it right now, but it was free so  
Doc Block fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Oct 27, 2013 |
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Oct 27, 2013 21:13
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spankmeister posted:make a monitor out of it for yosposting it's an old CRT scope. takes a good minute or so to warm up. still, p glad to finally have one. never had an oscilloscope before. Doc Block fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Oct 27, 2013 |
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Oct 27, 2013 21:30
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people seem unaware that for modern arduinos they solder on ISP (in-system programming/programmer) headers, so if you've got an arduino you've got an AVR dev board. you can do your project with an arduino and use the arduino IDE and whatnot to get it working, and then if you want you can rewrite your code in C and flash it on there with a cheapo AVR ISP. that way you've got a little AVR dev board that has a lot of sample code written for it, and if you need stepper motor controllers or wifi or whatever, but dont feel like designing your own, there are a fuckton of arduino-compatible boards to do all that poo poo that just plug into the arduino and have sample code available (which you'll have to tweak or probably rewrite if you want to use C, of course, but still). and the arduino IDE even has a menu item to reflash the arduino with the arduino bootloader (via an ISP), so if you flash it with something outside of the arduino IDE and want to turn it back into a vanilla arduino that's easy too.
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Nov 14, 2013 01:30
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make it flash like a police siren, then sell it to venice beach cops for $$$$
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Dec 3, 2013 07:45
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That's badass, Sagebrush.
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Dec 9, 2013 18:14
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can't you just use a low drop out (LDO) voltage regulator? paired with some filtering calacitors, an LDO regulator will take input voltages of, like, down to 5.5V and output a steady 5V.
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Dec 15, 2013 23:03
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if you can live with the weirdness that can come from an uneven power supply then OK. in the case of only being able to use 4 rechargeable AAs i'd probably just go with 3.3V parts and use a 3.3V LDO regulator instead, though. guess it depends on your project.
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Dec 16, 2013 04:51
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you can get wifi "shields" to add onto your arduino, so your ipad can potentially communicate with the arduino over wifi.
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Jan 3, 2014 04:37
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Nice!
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Jan 3, 2014 19:59
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 Building a little temperature logging thing. The actual thing won't use an Arduino, the one in the pic is just for testing. It's also gonna use this clock IC that I've got and a 16x2 LCD. Can't decide what I should save the data to. The ATmega328 MCU has 1K internal EEPROM, and I've got a couple of 32K serial EEPROMs laying around. Both of those would make saving the data easy, and the 32K serial EEPROM doesn't need much beyond just hooking it up to the MCU's I2C bus, but I'm not sure how I'd get the data back out. I could save the data to an SD card instead of an EEPROM, but then I'd need a decent amount of extra logic since SD cards run at 3.3V and the rest of my project is using 5V. Plus I'd have a lot more code to write (the actual code is gonna be C, so using the Arduino SD card/FAT library is out). Temperature readings seem ballpark accurate (haven't verified with an actual thermometer yet) and stable, at least. 
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Jan 3, 2014 20:44
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Bloody posted:whatever you do don't use an sd card they're a loving pain in the dick to use if i do i'll probably just buy an SD reader breakout board from adafruit, since they have the 3.3V regulator and 3.3V-5V logic level converter right on the board and use SMD components so they're smaller than if I made one myself. Doc Block fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Jan 3, 2014 |
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Jan 3, 2014 21:04
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Sagebrush posted:infrared led, bit-banging the data out serially at ~2400-4800bps shouldn't be a problem, hook up a phototransistor to an arduino when you need to read it. a cool idea, but prob not for this project. probably just gonna go with an SD card. if it can be done on an ATmega168 with room to spare then it can be done on an ATmega328.
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Jan 4, 2014 03:18
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Ugh. Looks like I'm gonna have to use two MCUs for my stupid beer temperature logger thing. The 16x2 LCD I want to use needs 11 pins, plus I need 4 for reading/writing an SD card, another pin for SD card detection, 2 more for talking to the real-time clock (via I2C), an analog pin for reading the temp sensor, a pin for controlling LCD power (via transistor, probably), a pin for reading the LCD power on/off switch, and pins to check other buttons (for setting the time, date, view highest/lowest temp, etc.). All the input buttons can be connected through a shift register, but that's still way more pins than one ATmega328 has. I've got an old ATmega168 that I can use to drive the LCD, so it isn't quite as wasteful as two ATmega328s, but still...
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Jan 6, 2014 21:01
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Except that I've already got the LCD, and this little project is already way over budget... and these ATmega168s I bought years ago are just sitting there gathering dust.
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Jan 6, 2014 21:18
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dunno if I have any shift-out registers jonny. It's been a long time since I looked at the data sheet for the LCD, so I'll see what can be done re: cutting down pin count. I've got an ATmega32U4 coming in the mail along with some other misc parts. IIRC it has more I/O pins than an ATmega328. Would really like to just run this on a '328 and save the 32u4 for another project, though. Decisions decisions...
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Jan 7, 2014 01:33
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Nice!
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Jan 7, 2014 02:46
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re: my beer fermentation temp logger, I've had a much better idea. Gonna use the ATmega32U4 that's in the mail to run the whole thing, and since the 32u4 does USB I can have it act as a serial device when plugged into a computer, and accept commands over a virtual serial port. That'll let me eliminate the need for buttons to set the date & time on the device. It also means I can ditch the SD card and instead save the temperature data to a 32Kbyte I2C EEPROM that I've got, and then just barf that back out over the USB virtual serial port when commanded to. Should let me get back down to one MCU. 
Doc Block fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Jan 7, 2014 |
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Jan 7, 2014 03:01
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Actually I'm gonna try using a shift register for controlling the LCD, and use a serial EEPROM for saving the data so I don't need the 4-5 pins for writing to an SD card (the EEPROM does I2C, which I'm already using for talking to the RTC, so it doesn't cost any extra pins). The MCU is an ATmega32U4, which can do USB, so it'll just barf out the data and set the date/time on the RTC when plugged into a PC. I just need to design a circuit that will cut off external power when drawing power from USB. A plain ol' PNP transistor on the positive rail should do the trick, right?
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Jan 11, 2014 22:46
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For non-computer/electronics/technology idiot spare time projects, I'm making my first batch of home brewed beer. Bottled it earlier today, and now it's carbonating. Hope it doesn't taste like poo poo.
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Jan 11, 2014 22:54
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Sagebrush posted:yep. here is an example of a guy reading four buttons on a single pin, if you need something concrete (i would) That's p cool, but the only input button I have now is the "power" button for the LCD, which in reality just wakes up the MCU and tells it to turn on the LCD and start PWM'ing the LCD backlight (and display the current temperature, as well as high/low temps).
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Jan 12, 2014 03:57
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 edit, context: finally got some more time to work on my beer fermentation temperature logger. was having a bitch of a time getting this loving LCD to work with my ATmega32U4. took the same LCD code, flashed it onto an arduino with my little USB programmer, and it works flawlessly. either the m32u4 board's power supply doesn't supply enough juice to run the LCD (backlight lights up fine, though), or the m32u4 is fried (it's a surface-mount part, and I might've applied too much heat when I soldered some header pins to the little PCB it's on to make it breadboard-able). Doc Block fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Jan 18, 2014 |
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Jan 18, 2014 23:34
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  Finally got some more time to work on my dumb fermentation temperature logger thing. The microcontroller controls the LCD via a 74HC595 shift register, reads the temperature, and can save it to the SD card. Only thing left to do is hook up the real-time clock, make the LCD backlight controllable via PWM, and then get it wired up 4 realz. The 4 realz version won't be using an Arduino, I only used one to prototype for easy plugging/unplugging things. All the code is written in vanilla C and uploaded via a USB programmer, and should Just Work on the actual board.
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Jan 27, 2014 06:48
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Sagebrush posted:idg the "i'm only using an arduino for temporary, really guys" attitude lotsa people have. if someone actually gets offended about what sort of things you do in your own hobbies you can guarantee they're basically a big walking ballsack. use an arduino. don't use an arduino. just have fun!! The issue is that a lot of people using an Arduino are the "post tutorials plz" idiots who copy/paste code without understanding it, etc.. They make all Arduino users look bad in the eyes of EE graybeards who complain any time someone uses a microcontroller instead of a 555 and a bunch of discrete TTL logic chips. So then you have the non-idiot Arduino users trying to distance themselves from the fact that they use Arduinos for nerd-cred or whatever. In my case, an Arduino just isn't right for the final version. I'd need to add a protoshield in order to make the connections permanent, at which point I might as well just wire it all up on a protoboard and not have to lose my Arduino to the project. Doc Block fucked around with this message at 11:34 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 11:26
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802.11weed posted:
I didn't quite mean people like you, but at least you're admitting that there's a lot you've yet to learn. My suggestion would be to take a break and learn as much as you can about the basics of DC electrical circuits, like Jony said. And maybe start with something simpler than a pinball machine for your first project.
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Jan 27, 2014 19:10
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802.11weed posted:poo poo i didn't mention what my idiot project even is Forget neopixels or any poo poo like that. Hook up 3 74HC595 shift registers in serial (so that the QH' pin on one connects to the serial input pin on the next, etc), connect their outputs to transistors, and then connect the transistors to LEDs. That way you aren't trying to drive the LEDs directly from the microcontroller, allowing you to use some bright, high-current LEDs, you can still individually turn them on and off, and it will be a lot cheaper than using neopixels. For accurate time, you'll need a real-time clock IC. Look into a Chronodot, which is basically a breakout board for the DS3231 clock IC, and is super accurate even over several years. Cheaper chips, like the DS1307, can be off by several seconds per day. You can then easily control all this with an Arduino.
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Jan 27, 2014 19:59
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802.11weed, I went ahead and made a schematic for you, for how to control up to 24 LEDs using just 3 pins on a microcontroller. The 3 "To MCU" lines can go to any 3 pins on your Arduino, just configure them as output. For the transistors, any small signal NPN that will switch on 5V should work. Something like a 2N3904. Hook each one up to an LED in common-collector configuration. What resistors to use will depend on the LED, so check the LED's data sheet and then plug the forward voltage and forward current into one of the many LED resistor calculators on the web to find out.
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Jan 27, 2014 21:12
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shift registers are really easy, too. edit: except for yesterday, when i spent, like, an hour trying to get that damned LCD to work over a shift register. only to realize that the reason it didn't work was because the code was putting the 4 data bits in the low nibble, but the hardware was wired to output them on the high nibble. also, i felt like a super EE nerd/graybeard when i realized i could just hook the LCD's enable pin to the shift register's latch pin instead of having to give it its own pin on the MCU. Doc Block fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 21:36
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802.11weed posted:Thanks for that, doc block. now i just need to figure out what everything on it means that schematic is pin-accurate for a 74HC595, so if you just put the chips in and wire it up like shown it'll work. 802.11weed posted:Thanks for that, doc block. now i just need to figure out what everything on it means that schematic is pin-accurate for a 74HC595, so if you just put the chips in and wire it up like shown it'll work. ol qwerty bastard posted:gonna move in here so i can stop clogging up the pics thread with my stop-motion video stuff that's cool as hell. Doc Block fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Jan 28, 2014 |
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Jan 28, 2014 01:50
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Bloody posted:this but unironically  enlighten me, please
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Jan 29, 2014 00:09
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You realize you're gonna have to connect ground to the arduino's ground pin, right? you might as well also hook up the regulated 5V from the arduino too. soldering something as big as those metal pads is gonna be a super bitch. just get a normal sized breadboard with power rails for a whole $10 and hook them up to the arduino like a normal person.
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Jan 30, 2014 22:01
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ol qwerty bastard posted:it's going to be a buddy cop movie Nice!
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Feb 4, 2014 13:05
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seriously, i will give you  or maybe 
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Feb 4, 2014 13:11
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Trig Discipline posted:i'm trying to do at least a couple of days a week for a few hours No bass drop, thereby unusable for YOSPOS theme music. Needs definitely NOT suited. 1/5 stars. edit: j/k Nice! etc.
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Feb 5, 2014 02:59
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coffeetable posted:if you're ever at a loss as to a project to pursue, if/when i get a house i'm gonna do this. i should probably just go ahead and buy the books.
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Feb 6, 2014 22:11
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Building a little doodad to suck solder fumes away. Finished the frame, final version will have a carbon filter and an 80x80mm PC fan. Dunno how much air it'll move, but v v Look upon my woodworking, ye mighty, and despair.
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Feb 11, 2014 01:38
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coffeetable posted:iirc, an 80mm pc fan is about ~1.5 cubic meters/minute (~50 cubic feet/minute) i just looked it up and it's about 29 cubic feet per minute. that doesn't sound like very much. maybe i'll look into 120x120mm fans instead. we'll see...
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Feb 11, 2014 02:02
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Home beer brewing status update: got some swing top glass bottles (no more CO2-losing plastic ones) and some poo poo to make Weissbier. Can't wait to brew it up this weekend Haven't had the time to solder the fermentation temp logger together yet, though. Hopefully I'll get time to finish it this weekend. Doc Block fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Feb 12, 2014 |
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Feb 12, 2014 22:26
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