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Picked up a '67 XKE. Luckily, it was a single owner, with only 19K on the clock.. but it's sat for 30+ years. So far, I've done the following: Cleaned... a lot. Picture is pre-cleaning.  Pulled Master and slave clutch cylinders..  I don't think the master clutch cylinder is supposed to look that way. Replacements goes in once the lines are cleared of all debris. Replaced the thermostat housing, thermostat & gasket.  That was supposed to be metal... Blew out with a pressure washer/steam cleaner the block. Water actually came out the other end once all the crap came out. Pulled the radiator, expansion tank, and heater box and those have gone off to a radiator shop. Pulled the battery too. Fuel tank is rotted, and needs replacement. Much more to come, along with busted knuckles. Way2slow fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Jul 26, 2013 |
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Jul 26, 2013 05:21
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Rust on the body is minimal from everything I can tell. Bits of surface rust around the emblems on the trunk, but otherwise clean. Forgot to mention: The engine is seized! Yeay! Already got the 6 spark plugs off, and have been letting some deep creep hopefully break the rust rings. I already understand why Jaguar people are generally determined to be crazy. Way2slow fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Jul 26, 2013 |
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Jul 26, 2013 05:34
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cursedshitbox posted:oh my god this things amazing. I've dealt with a few of em. truly amazing cars. Mid Cal would be the best way to put it, but more south than north.] It was acquired via trade of services, cost of said services was $2500. Note, that's not what would normally be charged, that's just out of pocket cost. Metal under the battery was suprisingly in shape. A tad bit of rust, but no more so than the '05 GTO I had for awhile. I've been using XKs unlimited for my parts thus far. The catalog is HUGE, and I bet you could almost build an entire car from it, if you had the time. Yes, it was stored in-doors. Budget-wise, I just sold my second house. I'd imagine 30K should do it, but I have at least 50 slotted for it just in case. Of course, I won't complain if I come in under budget.
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Jul 26, 2013 22:25
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Finally got the line blockage just prior to the clutch slave cylinder cleared out, the new slave in place. That took far longer than it should have, close to 4 hours. Had to remove the line entirely, clear it out, then put the line back in place. Old bolts that are covered in grime just take a little longer to remove than one would expect. Hoping by the end of the day to have the new master in place, and bleed the system, but spending so much time on my back causes me to feel nauseous.
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Jul 28, 2013 01:07
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Das Volk posted:Hey man, long time since I saw you last... you picked up one hell of a good project. Still got that Syclone? You should jump on the SoCal AI group on Facebook, it'd be fun to get together again. Still have the Typhoon. Still runs too. Needs a tuneup though, but other than that it's great. Still have the solstice too. Sadly, the paint will need to be redone. There's no way around it. From a distance, you can't tell, but up close, there are lines running through it. It's cracking. However, I am trying to preserve as much OE as possible- for example, the stock radiator was re-cored, along with expansion tank and heater box, as opposed to buying new aluminum parts. Even though it would be better for the car to buy a new aluminum one, trying to keep it as original as possible.
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Jul 28, 2013 08:34
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To free the engine I've tried: 1) Let Seafoam deep creep sit in the cylinders for a couple days, then breaker bar. That failed. 2) Let Free-all sit in the cylinders for a couple days, then breaker bar. Another failure.. 3) Let diesel fuel sit in the cylinders for a couple days, then breaker bar. Was hoping the third time would be the charm, but that failed as well. Any other suggestions? At this point though, I think that if the pistons are this stuck, even if I do break it free, it'll probably need a rebuild anyway.
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Jul 30, 2013 03:42
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Citycop posted:I always used ATF to free a stuck engine, last one I had I let it sit for about a week with the cylinders full of it. It did work out and I got it running. Just be sure if you do get it to turn you turn it with the plugs out to clear out all the fluid before trying to start it. It may be a lost cause, I mean your going to have to rebuild it anyway so perhaps the best next step is to pull the engine and tranny together? I wouldn't be surprised if you have a hard time separating the two though. I'm not even at the point of trying to start it yet, because I know if I can't break it free, then I have to pull the engine. Why work on an engine in a tight space now, if I have to pull it later anyway, and can work with all the space in the world? That's my thought process. I'm gonna give the diesel one more chance (I've talked to people who do this professionally, they all seem to agree that diesel seems to do the best job of freeing a seized engine).
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Jul 30, 2013 04:10
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DJ Commie posted:Long time no see man! What a sweet project car! I'll have to come down there sometime and check it out. How's the Cadillac? Cadillac is waiting to get the exhaust hooked up. So far, the shops we've dealt with all want it running before they'll work on it, but it's a flathead, so it really needs an exhaust on it before we run it. Catch 22 of sorts.
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Jul 30, 2013 11:03
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The engine spun to (half)life with a satisfying twang. Changed the oil to rid all the diesel out of the sump, put a bit of oil inside the cylinders to aid in further spinning. Spun it around again and again with a breaker bar, getting noticeably easier to turn, while watching those pistons move up and down in their bores.
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Aug 1, 2013 00:40
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madattheinternet posted:Awesome! If you get the motor cranking, catching and eventually starting will you take a victory lap around the neighborhood or will you park and pull it? Once the brakes are done, I'll take a victory lap for sure. Edit: Image added After cleaning a bit, and the engine turns via breaker bar. Still haven't put in the radiator/expansion tank. 
Way2slow fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Aug 1, 2013 |
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Aug 1, 2013 03:33
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:Have fun with those carbs Rebuilding the carbs before I try and run it. That's this weekend.
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Aug 2, 2013 04:26
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Citycop posted:Hell yeah, if it's got compression then it will run! It would be nice to drive it for some inspiration before you rebuild it. Also you could always tell a story about how you got an XKE for next to nothing and got it running running and driving with some diesel and sweat. Far from diesel and sweat. Replaced all the clutch hydraulics (it was frozen), replaced/repaired all cooling devices (radiator, expansion tank, heater box, thermostat & housing), will have to replace the fuel tank, all the brakes need work and I'm sure I'll run into more before it's driveable without a rebuild. Edit: Radiator, all hoses, and expansion tank are now in place. Way2slow fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Aug 2, 2013 |
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Aug 2, 2013 07:14
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Carbs are out. I think the British employ small gnomes to put those things in. Some bolts have almost no turn per movement of the wrench, and arms have to turn in some of the most uncomfortable positions. By contrast every GM vehicle I've worked on (Syclone, Typhoon, LS1 Camaro, LS2 GTO, Grand Prix GTP, Solstice) is a cakewalk. They may take awhile, but it's easy...  
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Aug 3, 2013 03:05
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Guffikins posted:On my TR7 you actually can't even get the box end over the nuts on the carbs, and you've only got enough room on the bottom nuts for 1/12th turns. Getting the carbs off of British cars is a terrible experience. YES! You know! The bottom middle was a complete pain in the rear end. You know the kind of bolt- the one that walks into the store, asks for a bunch of stuff, doesn't buy any of it, and makes you restock it all, while complaining the entire time. Yes, that type of bolt.
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Aug 3, 2013 07:07
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Popped the pickup off the tank. It needs work, I'll probably just replace it. 30+ year gas right there.. Entire tank is rusted horribly.  Tank is stuck at the moment. The bolts that hold it in have a welded nut to the bottom of the mount. The nut broke off the weld, and it is unreachable by hand. It will have to be cut/drilled out. Tomorrow is carb cleaning day!
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Aug 4, 2013 05:26
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Cleaned up one carb, found out that the few o-rings/gaskets that I couldn't buy outside of the rebuild kit were toast. Had to buy rebuild kits, which will probably take a couple days to arrive. Decided to go to Grose style jets (balls?), as supposedly they reduce the amount of leaking the SU carbs are notorious for. Not only that, but the rubber diaphragm was behaving like plastic, so it needed to be replaced as well. Put rags in the intake holes left by the carbs not being on, as they will obviously now be off for several days. The one I did open up and clean did clean up nicely though! 
Way2slow fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Aug 5, 2013 |
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Aug 5, 2013 03:15
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Tank is out, sliced the hell out of my finger. Needs new tank, sump, fuel pickup etc.. Basically all tank equipment needs to be new. 8/7/2013: Connected up heater bypass. Cooling system is now 100% capable of running, minus of course, the coolant in the system. Fuel pump disconnected, lines were all blown clear. No major obstructions. Waiting on replacement fuel pump. Since my onsite work got pushed back to Monday, will be cleaning and rebuilding the carbs Thursday, hoping fuel pump shows up Friday...if it does, I'm gonna try to fire it up once the carbs are on, coolant is in the system, and the fuel pump is on. Should try to grab a battery tomorrow. 8/9/2013: Carbs rebuilt and on the intake manifold. Grabbed a battery. All lights work on the car, starter works, turn indicators work. Power goes to the coil, but nothing comes out. Soooo.. needs a new coil. Fuel pump didn't show up, probably won't be here until Monday/Tuesday, Tuesday is date for new coil. Will try to start again there. Way2slow fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Aug 12, 2013 |
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Aug 7, 2013 03:28
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Trying to press the nylon/plastic bushing into a the bracket at the firewall for throttle linkage, but it just doesn't want to go in. Would heating the bushing to make it more malleable be a good idea, or a bad one? Edit: Picture of rebuilt carbs on manifold! 
Way2slow fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Aug 12, 2013 |
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Aug 12, 2013 01:47
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Took the bracket and bushing down to a friend's house who works on old cars. Consensus was it was too big/wrong part, despite double checking the part number corresponded to what I got. He fabbed up a nylon bushing, and we popped that in. Reassembled the throttle linkage, and now we're rolling properly there. Still waiting on fuel pump and coil.
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Aug 13, 2013 00:42
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Cat Terrist posted:Tank and anything in it 100% hosed buuuuuut that floor really is clean and rust free, you really did score with that car. That was the beautiful thing. Underneath that tank, I expected a bit of rust. There was none. It was perfect.
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Aug 13, 2013 03:44
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Well, the water pump is shot, that's causing the belt to scream.. but.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zsET6ZbfUA
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Aug 15, 2013 04:51
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That poor belt. It sounds possessed. Water pump is used in all Jaguar 4.2L engines. Plenty available, none cheap as a regular water pump for an SBC, most sit around $180.
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Aug 15, 2013 07:38
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I'm really happy to hear that this is moving along instead of becoming achingly beautiful yard art.
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New waterpump hasn't shown, but decided to pressure test the system with a test kit. Cap is designed for only 7psi, so that's all I ran it up to. It holds the pressure. No leaks. Which means coolant is staying coolant, and theoretically the head gasket should be ok, provided it didn't fail in a way to create a reed valve that only allows pressure inside the cylinders out into the coolant jacket. There's no way to test for that without running it, obviously. Sadly, work has me slated from Tuesday to the 30th in a different town, so no work will happen until I get back, and I'll be stuck in San Diego until the job is done.
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Aug 18, 2013 04:53
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:Look, bro, we're all friends here. And as a bro to bro, I gotta say, you need to man the gently caress up and do the right thing. Replace that water pump with this. As much as I'd love to, I'm going for as original as possible. Valuation and all. If I'm gonna put money from a house into it, it's gotta be somewhat of an investment. Now, if I were to go out and buy a NOM C2 vette, that's a whole different ballgame.
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Aug 18, 2013 08:37
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Interestingly enough, I may be coming across a similar deal, only on a full series 1 with covered headlights. Apparently this area that the work is being performed there must have been a one-upmanship contest with these cars or something. More on that when I return at the start of next month.
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Aug 19, 2013 04:02
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Cat Terrist posted:Putting my accountant hat on (Oh Gawd)..... actually this is one of the few times anyone can legitimatly say it. Unlike other cars it'll never go down in value and keeping it as unrestored as possible (Given it's actually in good condition) puts it's value up. As it stands a running unrestored XKE is worth 20K at least and one in good condition? Add another 30K. So there's easily 50K worth of car waiting to be unlocked. Maybe even more. Before we even got it off the trailer, some random guy in an Aston offered us 40K for it. Literally had done nothing to it, other than put it on the trailer.. Anyway, back to progress. Waterpump is off, but was supposed to ship with a fitting that it did not ship with. Had to order the fitting, making placement of new pump today impossible. That waterpump was shot, no question. No progress on the other XK, as I've been gone and working 20-22 hour days (a whole 2 hours sleep/day) for an entire week really drains you. That nightmare is done now, and back to working on the car at my leisure.
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Sep 1, 2013 23:49
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:There's a point where it just turns into cutting though Funny you should say that. The water pump gasket is absolutely baked on there. Scrapers alone aren't working. Leaving shortly for parts to get creative.
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Sep 3, 2013 17:03
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1st Edition ADandD posted:Someone coming up and offering you your budget plus what you are already in... it is King Raven, offering you one last chance to avoid going down the path of madness and death, or it is Coyote the Trickster, trying to turn you away from the way of glory. I am a weak man, and would slink away with my $40K having thrown in the trailer, and none would ever read my build thread. You are a man of whom even heroes will sing, in garages that smell of brake cleaner and warm beer, but will they sing of your victories, or of your foolishness...? It's not about money or glory. I always wanted to do this kind of resto, and now I have the time and the funds. I'm doing it while I still can. The longer you put something off, the easier it is to put off more.
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Sep 3, 2013 17:06
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the spyder posted:I learned the hard way that it does. I still use a red wheel, but after I stone the surface. This shows the low spots and I can generally work it carefully down. *This is for aluminum parts- scotchbrite IMO has a much harder time on steel- I do recommend their white bristle gasket remover wheels for any gasket surfaces. http://www.amazon.com/3M-07528-Roloc-Bristle-Grade-White/dp/B000FW4LDU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1378271287&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+white+roloc Yup. Used a right angle die grinder with a bristle tip hard foam thing, along with permatex gasket remover. All the gasket material is gone. Now awaiting the hose nipple that screws into the back of the pump that was supposed to have shipped with it, but by mistake was not. Once that is here, I'm putting the pump in, and gonna give it a whirl, and see how she sounds without that banshee howl.
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Sep 4, 2013 09:03
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWwzBwKolBk Sooo.. It runs, no squeals with the new waterpump. The idle is a bit high, but there's a vacuum leak (broken hose) that I forgot about. However, there was good news. The transmission works, and the clutch works, and is not fused to the flywheel. Clutch in, wheels stop spinning.. Clutch out, wheels spin. That is a very very good thing. Way2slow fucked around with this message at 09:41 on Sep 6, 2013 |
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Sep 6, 2013 09:36
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Ferremit posted:Video is set to private mate! Cant see it! Yeah, I screwed up. That's been fixed.
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Sep 6, 2013 23:41
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Sudo Echo posted:Did you have to do anything with the electrics besides replace the battery? The electronics so far have been untouched. It's absolutely amazing that lucas electronics are functional. Fixed the vacuum leak. Much better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tDypI90bwU
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Sep 7, 2013 01:26
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:One thing I didn't notice is have you popped open the distributor to look? My Volvo ran when bought and ithad been stored relatively decently but drivability and idle increased dramatically when I took the distributor apart and cleaned out the years of gunk in there and put fresh grease on the lobes. Yes. Originally the points weren't breaking. A little sandpaper fixed that right up. Speedometer hasn't been working, but gauge functions per drill test. Found out the right angle adapter has a rubber seal that had completely disintegrated, and that holds the gears to properly mesh. This $1 seal was causing the speedo to not work. Part has been ordered. A big part of how it's running is carb tuning. Haven't completely dialed it in, so far just getting it in decent running order, fine tuning can come later. Way2slow fucked around with this message at 08:17 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 08:13
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Kotaru posted:I agree, you don't need to go all 100% out on a restro since that would simply be madness. Clean it up and make it derivable so you can turn it into a weekend toy. At the very least, the top must be re-done/replaced, and the paint must be re-done. I will not allow what little rust there is to spread. Crush out cancer when you can. Also, there is a slight dent on the passenger side on the bonnet (not hood, it's British!). I'll probably replace the radio as well, as they make radios that drop in, look classic, and have modern functionality. Of course, the brakes must have stainless cylinders placed in, just for the safety of myself and the vehicle. I think I'll hold off on rebuilding the engine, simply because it isn't necessary at this point- worst case is replace the head gaskets, but so far, after idling for 10 minutes, it didn't overheat, so I think that's a good sign. So far, including all I need to get it running (brakes etc) my total into it is just under $5K, not including price of the car. I think I'm making out like a bandit thus far.
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Sep 13, 2013 08:15
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LloydDobler posted:Has the car been painted already? That'd be the deciding factor for me. If it was original paint I'd try really hard to restore it rather than repaint it. If it's been done once already then there's nothing to lose. When I was shopping I actually wanted a repainted vintage car so I didn't have to worry about keeping it original. According to the PO/OO (Original owner, I'm the 2nd owner of this vehicle), it was 100% original. Of course, I found a few errors in that statement- their mechanic they took it to had replaced a few coolant hoses that likely had failed with newer pieces that removed coupler tubes from the system. However, that's likely little things they didn't know about because the mechanic did it to fix something. The paint wouldn't be replaced in that manner.
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Sep 13, 2013 21:16
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Local Resident posted:This and the Citroen DS are the coolest cars ever made. I have no idea how they are to drive. I've heard they're fun, but I have no idea, as it doesn't drive yet.
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Sep 13, 2013 21:51
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The paint is cracking pretty much all over. I don't know if some kind of magic can fix that or not.
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Sep 15, 2013 17:46
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Certain things had to be replaced, but the old parts were kept so I can put them back in once they are re-worked/rebuilt. Perfect example- the finicky fuel pump. That thing was frozen solid. Until I can source a rebuild kit, or another identical replacement, I put in something else that works better, and was recommended for this particular application. Bolted right in, increased reliability significantly.
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Sep 17, 2013 19:20
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All corners are essentially done on the brakes now. Stainless steel wheel cylinders (the cylinder & piston for the brakes) have been installed. Just waiting on the new brake booster, and it'll be ready to drive. Oh yeah, also got the new fuel tank in. That was a BITCH. Way2slow fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Sep 20, 2013 |
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Sep 20, 2013 05:20
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Project may be on hiatus until at least October 14th. Just got word back from the supplier that the next run of brake boosters is expected in then. They'll try and source a few others here or there, but my magic eight ball says "Not likely". Also, speedo has been fixed. All gauges appear to work. Way2slow fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Sep 20, 2013 |
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Sep 20, 2013 18:27
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