|
Google Butt posted:1095 needs to be soaked at temp for 10 mins, not noob friendly. AKS has flatter stock than Jantz. Ah, that would do it, ok. Jantz site doesn't mention that in its instructions so screw them I guess.
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2019 17:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 16:18 |
|
|
Ordered a bunch of 1084, some pins and some ironwood scales today.  IT'S HAPPENING
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2019 23:36
|
|
|
I have materials! edit: one of them is slightly bowed. I'm guessing I just cut out my blank and then try to flatten it when I heat treat? Ghostnuke fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Sep 13, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2019 22:33
|
|
|
Ghostnuke posted:man, y'all weren't kidding about local places not giving a poo poo about my babby order. I've called/emailed at least 3 places and none have responded. You don't put in an order for like $50 of steel at an industrial supply yard by email or really by phone either. What you do is find out their working hours, go show up, and look around for a cutoffs bin. If they don't have one you can ask. If you want you can also buy like 11' of whatever dimension you want and then cut it up out in the parking lot to small enough sizes to fit in your vehicle (if you have a battery-operated sawzall or something that's ideal, because gently caress using a hacksaw to cut up floppy long-rear end pieces of carbon steel you propped up against your trunk lid or whatever). You can of course try calling, but I suggest trying during the middle of a workday and if they don't answer, the guy at the desk is helping someone and don't bother leaving a message on their 1996 answering machine because they don't check it. Just call again in a while. When you do call, don't lead in with "i'm an amateur knife maker can I buy a few tiny pieces of metal plz" just ask if they carry 3" x 1/8" 1095 or whatever you're looking for. If they ask "how much" then you may have to admit you only need one short piece and they'll know at that point you're not a "real customer" but you might get lucky and get a helpful answer anyway. You may waste your time once or twice if some place or another doesn't have a scrap bin or doesn't carry tool steels (which a surprising number don't, it's quite common to find places that only do alloys used in construction, meaning, mostly mild steel bar stock, 8x4 sheets, and like 50 different species of rebar). Also this may go without saying but: they are gonna prefer you bring cash, don't wander around their lot getting in the way of forklifts or whatever, and whatever you bring up to the counter be ready to tell them exactly what it is/where you got it, they will weigh it, probably hand-write an invoice, and then you pay. Disclaimer: this is how it's done at the supply places I've been to, which are all in the SF bay area and mostly all in Oakland specifically, YMMV. Ghostnuke posted:I have materials! I would flatten the bar before doing anything else, it'll be easier while it's unheated and in it's largest possible dimensions. Trying to grind your knife from a bent piece of steel is gonna suck. I don't know how much spring that steel will have in it but go slow and use a vise or something to squeeze it and see if you can get it flat.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 02:00
|
|
|
Getting stock flat and dealing with warping is the worst part of knife making for me. You really need to start flat or your poo poo will never be symmetrical too. One day I'll get one of the surface grinder attachments and be done with it
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 02:10
|
|
|
It's not too bad, maybe I can push it against a tree or something...
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 03:56
|
|
|
Invest in a vice, for sure. You'll want it at the very least for shaping/finishing the handle
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 06:41
|
|
|
Oh I have one. Just spit balling ways to flatten it
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 14:11
|
|
|
Got them pretty well flat, wasn't too tough. Started doing a bit of work. Is it normal for the edges to have some lovely bits, like this? I'm just smoothing them out with the sander and a file. edit: my pic isn't showing up for some reason, try this edit 2: even the large faces have some kind of tiny holes/imperfections. I guess they'll all get ground out eventually. Ghostnuke fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Sep 14, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2019 19:21
|
|
|
Ghostnuke posted:Got them pretty well flat, wasn't too tough. Started doing a bit of work. Is it normal for the edges to have some lovely bits, like this? The only thing I can think of is that they cut the steel up with a really dull and/or chipped shear. Not sure how else you could get that kind of rollover.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2019 01:59
|
|
|
Here's where I'm at so far: It's fun! edit to add a question: Do you guys etch a mark into your stuff? Where do you get the stencils made? I could probably build an etching thingy out of an old power supply or something. Ghostnuke fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Sep 16, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2019 05:32
|
|
|
Got the rough bevel in:    This part was fairly tough, though some of that may be due to my cheapass harbor freight grinder (the left side of the belt doesn't seem to grind the same as the right). I think I might still have too much meat in the middle there, might go back and take some of that out. A bit too convex? It's coming together though! I'm glad the chef's knife I have planned for my wife is a bit simpler, just a flat bevel.
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2019 14:02
|
|
|
That looks about right for your first stock removal knife. Grinding takes practice, and yeah, it's gonna be a bit more challenging with a cheap grinder and cheap belts, but you can still do it. Nice job so far!
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2019 17:09
|
|
|
I bought the Diablo belts for it, but for some reason it just kinda jumps to the right when I press on the left side of the platten. It's probably got hosed up wheels or something. I'd care more if this was my paycheck, but I can probably compensate.
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2019 17:49
|
|
|
I love making blades, but man do I just lose steam when it comes time to putting scales/handles on the knives. We were doing some I'm not much of a pocket knife person, so everything I make is centered around kitchen use. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2019 17:52
|
|
|
I actually liked making handles and pins, back when I dabbled in this hobby. I treated it like sanding in woodworking: it means you're almost done! On the topic of handles, this guy's videos popped up in my YouTube recommendations and whoa: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dG9ZBrjjx8s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdI0xXqafMA (he just makes the handles but they're pretty freaking neat)
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2019 04:14
|
|
|
I'm just about to the handle stage on my first two knives. I finished heat treating and tempering, just haven't gotten around to sanding off all the black poo poo. The shorter hunting knife came out of the heat treat ok, but the longer chef's knife picked up a very slight curve so I've been trying to get that straightened out. On that note, these first two have taught me an important lesson I think. They will never be perfect, don't gently caress up Good Enough chasing Perfect. On the hunting knife I had to go back and do a bunch of rework on my bevel because I was chasing Perfect and ended up making a mistake.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2019 13:38
|
|
|
Welp, these ironwood scales I got only fit on the chef's knife, the hunting knife is too big. Guess I'll make the handle for that out of some oak I have laying around.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2019 03:39
|
|
|
Need to do some fuckin' heat treat and handles. Tried doing a bolster/heel on the petty knife and it's pretty ugly. The big tongue depressor/popsicle stick behind the cleaver is showing how far back I'd like the wood to come, maybe try and balance out that big chunk of steel. Also, I may have made a mistake. I sharpened these fully before heat treating. Hoping that heating these bad boys up won't gently caress em up too bad. It's mystery steel, but I'm hoping that these old saw blades harden.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2019 17:21
|
|
|
Rotten Cookies posted:Also, I may have made a mistake. I sharpened these fully before heat treating. Hoping that heating these bad boys up won't gently caress em up too bad. It's mystery steel, but I'm hoping that these old saw blades harden. a good edge win, must forge thick and grind thin" You really should not even come close to a sharp edge before heat treating. The danger is that those edges will get burned/brittle and you're going to have to grind new edges entirely, losing a mm or more. I honestly wouldn't even grind bevels before heat treating. Hammered bevels sure, but the only grinding I think you should be doing pre heat-treat is rough shaping and flattening/planing Kenshin fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Oct 4, 2019 |
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2019 17:24
|
|
|
The very thin edge will dump heat between pulling from the oven/forge and getting into the quench. It also will probably overheat in the oven while the rest of the steel is still coming up to temp, although you can avoid this if your forge/oven temp is no higher than the steel temp you're aiming for (but then, it will take much longer to reach temp...). Basically, super high surface to volume ratio makes for terribly difficult heat treating. If you got a decent heat treat otherwise, you may be able to get away with just grinding back the edge a little, to get into the steel that didn't overheat/underheat/etc., but look closely for fine cracks or fractures forming along the edge.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2019 17:29
|
|
|
Ah, oh well. So I wasted some time. Would any of you advise to heat treat as they are, or should I take a belt sander to the edge to take the edge out? As long as I'm gonna be removing material afterward anyway?
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2019 17:30
|
|
|
I forget, how are you heating up to quenching temp? Forge?
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2019 17:31
|
|
|
Usually it's best to leave your edge about .020 - .050 before HT in order to avoid warping/cracking etc for future reference
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2019 17:36
|
|
|
Gifted this cheese/spreading knife this evening to some good friends of mine (and we used it!) and I have my artistic logo (that I use for my photography as well) electro-etched into it   hand-forged 1080 steel with padauk scales and brass pins carbon steel is a ridiculous choice for a cheese knife but I forged the blade itself back in February and I am not equipped for heat treating stainless steel
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2019 06:26
|
|
|
Oh boy here I am again, posting about knives. Image dump inc       
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2019 18:37
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:You don't put in an order for like $50 of steel at an industrial supply yard by email or really by phone either. What you do is find out their working hours, go show up, and look around for a cutoffs bin. If they don't have one you can ask. If you want you can also buy like 11' of whatever dimension you want and then cut it up out in the parking lot to small enough sizes to fit in your vehicle (if you have a battery-operated sawzall or something that's ideal, because gently caress using a hacksaw to cut up floppy long-rear end pieces of carbon steel you propped up against your trunk lid or whatever). Failing all of that, and assuming you own some sort of portable grinder or reciprocating saw, leaf springs can generally be had for cheap at your local junk yard. You'll have to cut them off the car/truck yourself, though, otherwise you'll be paying way too much for their labor. That said, bring extra batteries for your power tool of choice, because one is not going to cut it. Jack up your victim, cut off the mounts, and get out of there. We don't have big industrial steel supply yards in my area, so it's junkyard, small machine shop, or internet for me.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2019 04:49
|
|
|
Just about done with the chef's knife for my wife. I did finish the hunting knife I made to practice first. I used one of those Lansky kits to sharpen it, but it didn't turn out as sharp as I would've liked... I think I used a 25 degree angle when I did it? Maybe I just need to go back and do it on a 15.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2019 16:49
|
|
|
Not specifically knife related but close enough - I'm restoring an old axe that my grandfather owned and the old handle is fairly useless as it's shrunk, and is a bit smaller than I'd like. Typically, I'm loving useless at taking before photos, as such is the case here.  This is the head after electrolysis, it had a reasonable amount of surface rust. I'm doing it with a 316 stainless steel core, similar to a full tang knife, with some nice mosaic pins. The handle will be a composite of timbers, I haven't quite yet figured out if it'll be 3 or 4 but I have pieces of silky oak, African Wenge, western red cedar, and jarrah. And some g10 and mosaic pins on the way  Now I've marked out the new handle on the stainless steel, but will have some scrap left over. I understand that stainless isn't able to be heat hardened, but that I could work harden it by peening the poo poo out of it (essentially). Has anyone done this? If so, what did it take? Or am I wasting my time? I was considering either a couple small occasional use knives that I can throw in my camping kit, for emergency use (and keep sharp enough for basic functions like cutting food or ropes), or a single small knife and a longer knife, like a brisket knife
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2019 12:35
|
|
|
Does anyone use one of these Lansky things to put on their final edge? I can't get this hunting knife sharp at all... I started out on a 25 degree angle, as that's what the instructions suggested. Wasn't sharp, so I went back and did a 15. Still not sharp. Help!
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 00:10
|
|
|
Forged out the first two of the five chef knives I'm planning on making for my family for Christmas. 80crv2. The bigger one is about 8.5", the smaller one around 7.25", at least currently. I will probably re-profile the tip shapes on the belt grinder a fair bit and may lose some length on both blades, but that's ok since I'd intended to forge them at 7.5" and 6.5".  I like the bigger one slightly more, I forged it out first today and I think my hand/arm was getting a bit tired midway through the second blade (and blisters started forming, but I need to get those callouses back!)
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 02:10
|
|
|
Pin acquired
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 06:19
|
|
|
McSpergin posted:Axe stuff Wait, so you're going to make an axe handle with a slab of metal sandwiched between wood? I supposed you could do that if it's just going to be a display piece, but I don't think it would hold up to any actual use. An axe handle serves a completely different function than a knife handle, and has to withstand a lot of vibration and flexing.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 06:59
|
|
|
Dog Case posted:Wait, so you're going to make an axe handle with a slab of metal sandwiched between wood? I supposed you could do that if it's just going to be a display piece, but I don't think it would hold up to any actual use. An axe handle serves a completely different function than a knife handle, and has to withstand a lot of vibration and flexing. Agreed, I don't think that will work very well unless this is a display piece only.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 07:06
|
|
|
Nah I've had a hatchet with a metal handle, you can do it. I'd much rather have an all-wood one, though, because of the weight.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2019 08:17
|
|
|
Still struggling with this Lansky jig, I don't know wtf I'm doing wrong... I even watched some videos on it, I'm doing it just like they did but it never forms a burr or gets sharp. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2019 05:46
|
|
|
Dog Case posted:Wait, so you're going to make an axe handle with a slab of metal sandwiched between wood? I supposed you could do that if it's just going to be a display piece, but I don't think it would hold up to any actual use. An axe handle serves a completely different function than a knife handle, and has to withstand a lot of vibration and flexing. Yeah it's more just a display piece as it's a family heirloom. It's mainly for the fun of it I have a cheap axe for camping that does what I need it to (chop wood)
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2019 13:26
|
|
|
I am nearly done with the knives for Christmas, down to the final finishing work and epoxying and forming the handle scales. It's been a hell of a learning experience and I probably bit off more than I should have but they are starting to come out really well. The longest chef knife is 8.25", the shortest is 7", and the steak knife is 4.5" All the chef knives are 80crv2, the steak knife is 1080
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2019 18:21
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Nah I've had a hatchet with a metal handle, you can do it. I'd much rather have an all-wood one, though, because of the weight. Weight, and wood also flexes and absorbs the impact shock when chopping
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2019 20:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 16:18 |
|
|
Kenshin posted:I am nearly done with the knives for Christmas, down to the final finishing work and epoxying and forming the handle scales. It's been a hell of a learning experience and I probably bit off more than I should have but they are starting to come out really well. Nice! What's the material on the handles? Has anyone dealt with Jantz Supply? Their shipping rates to Australia are pretty good and their steel pricing is actually not too bad at all, worth looking at compared to local suppliers for stuff like Damascus and cutlery stainless (the range of scale materials is way better too!)
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2019 23:40
|
|