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jarofpiss posted:i need some really good (ie heavy) tabletop trees for dnd. i will craft if i have to but i would prefer just to buy them and paint them. i'm tempted by the dwarven forge stuff, they look like what i want, but i don't want to have to buy the base tiles to populate a forest and i don't want to spend $2000 to do it. any suggestions? Danny the 3d printing dm had some neat ones where the canopy is a separate piece, with enough room to hide a mini on the trunk underneath
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Jan 26, 2021 18:18
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Sort of cross posting this from the Goonhammer Necromunda discord: I got a big job lot of plastic GW terrain recently, and it included a few of these Sector Mechanicus doohickies:  So I like the look of them when painted, but they don't add much LoS blocking to the board and something about their footprint being smaller than the terrain itself just bothers me. I figured they would be better horizontal, but that still doesn't add much except a thing to block LoS and walk around.  So I made some little platforms by fastening a pipe terminal piece to the top and then gluing a walkway piece to the bottom of the pipe. The thing is supported by some old flying buttress bits, cut down to fit. Surprisingly sturdy although I worry the buttresses might snap when being stored. Hopefully this is a more practical bit of gaming terrain, models can climb on them, hide behind them or even under them. I could use blu-tac or similar to connect the two pieces with a length of pipe, or connect them to other walkways - I managed to make them the same height as a single storey of Zone Mortalis terrain. 
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Feb 1, 2021 11:23
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Genghis Cohen posted:Sort of cross posting this from the Goonhammer Necromunda discord: These look great, and you're totally right - they seem way more useful horizontally, and being able to be climbed on and interacted with is much more interesting than just a silo tower
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Feb 1, 2021 18:02
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Crossposting from the painting thread, because I actually MET THIS GOON IN THIS THREAD: I've never really spoken here about this, but I had a fellow goon, A Mean Cow, aka 3T Studios, aka [REDACTED] from Arizona, make me a sweet loving stage for my GWAR Miniature Game minis, which I had professionally painted. I paid him in full, and even got completion photos from him     but I never got my stage. Apparently he had a breakdown or something? And a bunch of other excuses? I'm ok with him needing time to address his mental health, and he even reached back out after he had lost access to his work email, and like, all his poo poo had fallen apart, but he never shipped me anything. I even bought a bunch of other scenery off him at the time to help his old lady get over the flu or something, some kinda help out. I'm not even mad at this point, because it's been a few years now. (I started in 2018 trying to get it, he was done by mid that year, by Jan 2019, I heard from him one last time, saying he'd get it crated and shipped, and that was it.) I'm out 600 to him for custom work I never saw. But it would have been sick as gently caress to have as a companion piece to the minis, which are rare and expensive. Somebody fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Feb 5, 2021 |
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Feb 1, 2021 22:43
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I have a big 3d printed dice tower skull that misprinted and I want to make a really killer piece of terrain out of it. Thinking out turning it into a watchtower? Any good info on fleshing out a tower materially? Haven't done too much terrain building. I have some sheets of foam core, some cardboard, and access to a filament/resin printer. Happy to go buy materials or whatever, but I'd love if I can do it via a Michaels trip rather than necessarily a speciality train place  Left is a quick sand and a really quick paintjob (still need to finish basing). I plan on sanding the new one, but is there anything that can be done to give the bulk a a nice texture on the cheap?
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Feb 5, 2021 03:41
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w00tmonger posted:I have a big 3d printed dice tower skull that misprinted and I want to make a really killer piece of terrain out of it. Thinking out turning it into a watchtower? these look great, that is an awesome print. is this just an FDM 3d printer of some kind?
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Feb 5, 2021 03:49
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punishedkissinger posted:these look great, that is an awesome print. is this just an FDM 3d printer of some kind? Just a cheap as gently caress ender 3. Model on the right ran out of filament and ijust pulled it instead of trying to continue. I have a resin. Printer too a d it's good for smaller stuff but for terrain scale the FDM is really appropriate If anyone's ever looked at dipping into 3d printing for hobbies, we're kind of in a golden age right now Edit: progress shots. How should I finish the foam core? Especially the edges?  
w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Feb 5, 2021 |
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Feb 5, 2021 04:15
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w00tmonger posted:I have a big 3d printed dice tower skull that misprinted and I want to make a really killer piece of terrain out of it. Thinking out turning it into a watchtower? What texture are you looking for? Gesso is good for line filling, and can be stuccoed a little bit/ Sand/polyfilla/pva is also a nice strong mix. Also, thats a lot of infill! is that 10%? 20? I find 5% is plenty for most things!
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Feb 5, 2021 06:12
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Grey Hunter posted:What texture are you looking for? Gesso is good for line filling, and can be stuccoed a little bit/ Sand/polyfilla/pva is also a nice strong mix. 15 and yeah it was too much. It ws a commission for someone that failed so I'm making due. Just want to give it a bit of an aged look and guide any really obvious lines. The Sand and primer helps a ton anyways but I wanted to up my game
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Feb 5, 2021 06:40
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w00tmonger posted:Left is a quick sand and a really quick paintjob (still need to finish basing). I plan on sanding the new one, but is there anything that can be done to give the bulk a a nice texture on the cheap? There are spray primers at most auto stores that have a scratch filler, or "high-build", formula, which are specifically designed for filling in small imperfections in the surface. That would be a good place to start, it should even out the surface to lower, maybe even eliminate, the need for much sanding. Dupli-color has a few varieties. If you go that route, I would do some test pieces on waste prints first. Sometimes filler/primers can be odd formulations, and I don't necessarily know how they'd react on 3D print material. https://www.duplicolor.com/product/2-in-1-hi-build-primer/ https://www.duplicolor.com/product/filler-primer/ https://www.duplicolor.com/product/professional-filler-primer/
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Feb 5, 2021 08:15
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Progress pics on what I think is going to be a wizard tower 
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Feb 7, 2021 18:57
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already looks incredible! can't wait to see the end result
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Feb 8, 2021 08:09
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I'm thinking about building a terrain set for 40k based kind of on a Tyranids-version of Aliens LV-426 colony. I'm looking in particular at using GW's Vertigus set (minus the cardboard sheets) and some of the Manufactorum pieces. Are there any companies that make similar aesthetics like this, a ruined industrial area? 3D printed are also fine. I'm not really sure where to start, as I've never built terrain before.
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Feb 8, 2021 15:35
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SERPUS posted:I'm thinking about building a terrain set for 40k based kind of on a Tyranids-version of Aliens LV-426 colony. I'm looking in particular at using GW's Vertigus set (minus the cardboard sheets) and some of the Manufactorum pieces. Are there any companies that make similar aesthetics like this, a ruined industrial area? 3D printed are also fine. I'm not really sure where to start, as I've never built terrain before. Behold: https://lv427-designs.com/
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Feb 8, 2021 17:39
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Hi thread! I'm crossposting this from the Scale Modeling thread in HCH. I've recently become interested in landscape modeling of strange alien planets, basically I want to move on from drawing 2d landscapes to creating actual physical dioramas along the same lines, but I'm having a hard time finding things like ground cover in alien/unnatural colors. There are some rad pieces of scenery I want to use linked in the OP (particularly on Armorcast), but does anyone have suggestions for where to buy or how to make something like Woodland Scenics Ground Cover or Static Grass in unnatural colors like blue or purple or red? Someone in the HCH thread recommended Gamers Grass for alien bushes and tufts and they are basically perfect as bushes and tufts. My current thought is that I could probably just use scissors to cut the bottom off of them to create loose grass but that seems like it would be cost prohibitive with how much ground cover I need. I can also most likely get some good mileage out of Woodland Scenics Fall colors or floral coverings but those are all limited to oranges/yellows/reds and I would love some, you know, hot pink and purple grass, or teal/blue bushes or whatever. I figure I'm going to be doing lots of painting or airbrushing one way or another, and someone in HCH recommended airbrushing regular green ground cover which sounds completely workable, but in a perfect world I would have the ground cover colored before applying it to the model so that I could layer the colors, and I'm not sure how I could do that without the pieces all sticking together. Is there any manufacturer of mini-landscaping supplies that's easy to work with for custom orders or offers customizable products? deep dish peat moss fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Feb 22, 2021 |
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Feb 22, 2021 17:01
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Seems like this is pretty close to what I think you are asking for. http://pabloelmarques.com/tienda/en/27-alien-grass Depending on what the scale goons suggest, there is also really short flock or crushed sponge like the flock you used to get in the 80s-90s that car modelers use to make scale velvet or plush car interiors that might work for more mossy or fungi-type growth.
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Feb 22, 2021 17:44
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deep dish peat moss posted:Hi thread! I'm crossposting this from the Scale Modeling thread in HCH. Flock ground cover is just sawdust (or ground up upholstery foam/sponge, get some of that and put it through a blender and use instead of sawdust if you prefer) mixed with paint, allowed to dry and sieved. Most people buy premade for convenience (because most of the time people are looking for shades of green) but there are plenty tutorials out there for making your own. Heres a tutorial from Geek Gaming Scenics (formerly Lukes APS) as its one I have to hand, but there are plenty of others out there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mKGxEuXHLM&t=324s It should be queued up to when he actually starts making it. Just replace the green paint with whatever colour you fancy. And in my recommendations when I looked at that there was a video where some guy makes his own static grass, sort of, out of cutting up hemp string (you know the kind of cheap hairy twine you get?) Looks more labour intensive, but might be worth a go. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8GylIKlGTs The scale modelling guys will probably have better ideas tbh, a lot of wargaming scenery techniques are basically "Model train techniques simplified to be good enough for wargaming".
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Feb 22, 2021 17:55
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I had an pre-conceived notion what a guy doing a terrain tutorial video would look like. Boy was I wrong.
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Feb 23, 2021 09:19
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Terrain Tutor is one of my favorites. The dude is chill and super easy to listen to. https://www.youtube.com/user/TheTerrainTutor
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Feb 23, 2021 09:31
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Floppychop posted:Terrain Tutor is one of my favorites. The dude is chill and super easy to listen to. https://www.youtube.com/user/TheTerrainTutor Mel is always worth a recommendation! I backed his book on kickstarter, and its a good read too.
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Feb 23, 2021 09:56
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Floppychop posted:Terrain Tutor is one of my favorites. The dude is chill and super easy to listen to. https://www.youtube.com/user/TheTerrainTutor Does he still slurp constantly when he talks? His stuff slurp is good but slurp is rather slurp offputting.
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Feb 23, 2021 10:28
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I just came across Studson Studio, who builds 28mm scale models of different buildings from games, or his childhood home as the Visitor Center from Jurassic Park with bonus footage of his and his siblings' and cousins' childhood reshoot of the movie. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S941y34-AYA Only watch the Pokecenter one if you can handle Pokemon puns.
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Feb 23, 2021 13:05
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Z the IVth posted:Does he still slurp constantly when he talks? His stuff slurp is good but slurp is rather slurp offputting. I don't think I've ever noticed it before, but here's a recent video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQ_UvVHn6JA You can hear him inhaling occasionally, but no slurp
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Feb 24, 2021 04:37
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I just got a resin printer and I'm stoked to see how it can help me with terrain. Post your favorites here!
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Feb 24, 2021 04:52
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Z the IVth posted:Does he still slurp constantly when he talks? His stuff slurp is good but slurp is rather slurp offputting. Ah, I'm not alone. I had to stop watching his stuff because of this.
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Feb 24, 2021 22:02
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Been meaning to postbthis bad boy   Bonus quickly painted tomb 
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Mar 19, 2021 17:56
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Looking really good! You inspired me to do something similar with some plastic skulls I bought and a bird light tower I have sitting around!
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Mar 19, 2021 18:40
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Has anyone used Sanded Grout to make roads? I've been testing it out after watching a couple videos and I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or what. My process is adding watered down PVA glue to my MDF road sections then sprinkling the sanded grout over top. I then wet that with wet water and move watered down PVA glue and sprinkled a little more on top. Once that was dry I then sealed the entire road sections with a coat of watered down mod podge to seal it, but I'm finding the sanded grout is still coming off a bit when I touch it. It doesn't come off at all when I bang it against the table, but it comes off easily when I touch it with my finger. Any ideas? Is this normal? Here are some photos of my process.      Update: I got it to stick. Ended up adding a heavy layer of watered down mod podge. Here's where I ended up after adding some basing. 
Zuul the Cat fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Mar 22, 2021 |
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Mar 21, 2021 18:10
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SiKboy posted:Flock ground cover is just sawdust (or ground up upholstery foam/sponge, get some of that and put it through a blender and use instead of sawdust if you prefer) mixed with paint, allowed to dry and sieved. Most people buy premade for convenience (because most of the time people are looking for shades of green) but there are plenty tutorials out there for making your own. Heres a tutorial from Geek Gaming Scenics (formerly Lukes APS) as its one I have to hand, but there are plenty of others out there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mKGxEuXHLM&t=324s It should be queued up to when he actually starts making it. Just replace the green paint with whatever colour you fancy. I know they recommend paint because craft paint is cheap and easy and people have it on hand, but I am wondering if using acrylic ink (maybe thinned with a isoproply/little distilled water + flow improver?) would work way better without the issue of the flock turning into "glue clumps"?
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Mar 24, 2021 17:35
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I've had bad experiences with ink lately, I don't know why. It ups my drying time tremendously and in one batch it yellowed when mixed with water effects. Possibly a bad batch, but I'm staying clear
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Mar 24, 2021 23:19
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BULBASAUR posted:I've had bad experiences with ink lately, I don't know why. It ups my drying time tremendously and in one batch it yellowed when mixed with water effects. Possibly a bad batch, but I'm staying clear I was having a similar issue. I shook them for minutes and no go. Eventually taped to a hand saw to shake the crap out of them, let it settle, and was good. I've also found the are garbage with a wet pallet and can get gummy really quick without - thing that works for me is putting in a pippet and squirting a small amount at a time just to fill my brush with. Less annoying then it sounds and inks are still really useful.
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Mar 25, 2021 00:51
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I'll give it a try. I use inks to make washes, and all of mine except this one are another brand I've never had issues with. I got the white to play with and welp 
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Mar 26, 2021 19:03
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I just completed this last weekend for a table topper. I found inks weren't getting the color saturation I wanted without using a ton of it. So instead I just went to Home Depot and got sample pots indoor house paints of three or four shades, each was less than $2 for 7.25 oz of high pigment paint.  The sawdust was free from the woodcutting section and it yielded everything I needed for this whole table and the hills and a huge bag in the closet. The clumps are an issue you can skip if you do smaller batches with less paint. If you do end up with clumps, either grind them in a blender or mortar & pestle. Or do what I did and use them as clump foliage.
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Mar 26, 2021 19:56
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So I'm just buying a load of MDF terrain. I want to take some plastic canvas (aka granny grating) and glue it to this terrain as detailing. Can anyone recommend a good glue to bond MDF to this type of plastic? I know the plastic canvas can be notoriously difficult to stick to things. I use gorilla wood glue on my MDF kits, works a treat. But I don't think it will help with this!
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Apr 12, 2021 18:12
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Genghis Cohen posted:So I'm just buying a load of MDF terrain. I want to take some plastic canvas (aka granny grating) and glue it to this terrain as detailing. Can anyone recommend a good glue to bond MDF to this type of plastic? I know the plastic canvas can be notoriously difficult to stick to things. I've always used hot glue with the granny grating and it's worked well.
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Apr 12, 2021 18:19
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Genghis Cohen posted:So I'm just buying a load of MDF terrain. I want to take some plastic canvas (aka granny grating) and glue it to this terrain as detailing. Can anyone recommend a good glue to bond MDF to this type of plastic? I know the plastic canvas can be notoriously difficult to stick to things. I watched a video recently where someone was using drywall tape instead of plastic canvas because of the exact "getting the bastard stuff to stick to something" problem, if that would be any use? Dont know if its suitable for your particular application, but worth mentioning.
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Apr 12, 2021 18:34
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Genghis Cohen posted:So I'm just buying a load of MDF terrain. I want to take some plastic canvas (aka granny grating) and glue it to this terrain as detailing. Can anyone recommend a good glue to bond MDF to this type of plastic? I know the plastic canvas can be notoriously difficult to stick to things. Scuff both pieces with sandpaper and use 2 part epoxy to bond it
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Apr 12, 2021 20:25
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Lumbermouth posted:I've always used hot glue with the granny grating and it's worked well. Silhouette posted:Scuff both pieces with sandpaper and use 2 part epoxy to bond it SiKboy posted:I watched a video recently where someone was using drywall tape instead of plastic canvas because of the exact "getting the bastard stuff to stick to something" problem, if that would be any use? Dont know if its suitable for your particular application, but worth mentioning. Thank you all for the help! I have a hot glue gun, so I can try that and will look into the 2-part epoxy if it doesn't work (or more likely leaves unsightly gobs of glue everywhere). Thanks for the drywall tape suggestion, but I think for this the exact proportions of plastic canvas will be better. For context, this is getting glued atop simple MDF buildings to look like grating. So I want it to look fairly neat.
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Apr 12, 2021 22:37
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Harvey Mantaco posted:I was having a similar issue. I shook them for minutes and no go. Eventually taped to a hand saw to shake the crap out of them, let it settle, and was good. I've also found the are garbage with a wet pallet and can get gummy really quick without - thing that works for me is putting in a pippet and squirting a small amount at a time just to fill my brush with. Less annoying then it sounds and inks are still really useful. Btw, I got one of these and it works wonders: https://youtu.be/5WyCCvqEkYg
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Apr 18, 2021 15:48
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Does anyone know which glue works best for sticking Plasticard/Plastruct to metal?
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Apr 19, 2021 07:33
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