Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
BrianM87
Oct 30, 2006
I keep missing. Are you sure the bullets work?

Beardless posted:

Potentially dumb questions here: Is there any difference between the frames for a .45 and 9mm 1911? And the frame is the serialized part, correct? Would it be possible to get a 1911 in .45 and then get a 9mm slide and barrel (and magazines)?

Outwardly there won't be much of a difference. On the inside, the feedramp is going to be your biggest hurdle but not the only one. It will require machining to be the proper spec. I looked into this myself last year and found it would probably be cheaper to just buy a 9mm 1911 if I really wanted one. (I didn't)

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

tonedef131
Sep 3, 2003



Ejector and maybe feed ramp will be different. Ejectors can theoretically be swapped but it can be a pain in the rear end and the blend likely wonít match if you care about that.

Then thereís also the slide, which may work depending on how tight you are hoping to keep that fit. Most 9s are barreled with supported feed ramps, which generally work pretty lovely with .45 as they donít go deep enough. You could run both on a standard ramp because 9 doesnít need the extra case support of the other common off-calibers, but make sure you order the right frame/barrels to set it up for that.

Youíll likely end up swapping hammer springs every time you change calibers too. So yeah it can be done, but is usually more than just a field strip at the range.

checkstock
Dec 18, 2011


I recently got ahold of this along with a cigar box full of parts, an old booklet, and tons and tons of semi-wadcutter .45.

checkstock fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Jul 24, 2020

flightless greeb
Jan 28, 2016



That rules! Does it have an Ithaca frame as well? How does it feed the SWCs?

checkstock
Dec 18, 2011


It looks like a Union Switch frame that's been through multiple arsenal rebuilds. Then in civilian life it's become even more of a mixmaster with some commercial parts and had some polishing done to the barrel. It's probably not much of a collector's piece anymore but that box has USGI parts on it to replace the commercial ones.

I haven't fired it, but it locks up tight and the SWCs seem to feed just fine.

checkstock fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Jul 25, 2020

flightless greeb
Jan 28, 2016



Sounds like a great gun!

Target Practice
Aug 20, 2004

Shit.

gently caress me I want a 1911 but they are all so goddamn expensive.

DeesGrandpa
Oct 21, 2009



Target Practice posted:

gently caress me I want a 1911 but they are all so goddamn expensive.

Just depends what you want. Even in Covid times you can find a shooter in the $500 range, if you want really cool poo poo or USGI guns then yeah they get pricey.

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

Am I a... bad person?
AM I??





Fun Shoe

Yeah, if you don't mind cheaper imports, this Turkey will gobble gobble your .45's all day long.

Action-Bastard
Jan 1, 2008



Target Practice posted:

gently caress me I want a 1911 but they are all so goddamn expensive.

Does it have to be in .45? I got my .22 1911 for just over $300.

Thelonious
Jul 15, 2005





Currently challenging my duded up hi power for my favorite auto pistol. Especially since decent .38 super is now on par or sometimes cheaper than 9mm.

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Captain Log posted:

"I AINT DYING! Choo choo motherfucker!"




Thelonious posted:



Currently challenging my duded up hi power for my favorite auto pistol. Especially since decent .38 super is now on par or sometimes cheaper than 9mm.

I'm not a 1911 guy, but that's loving great. Good grip choice.

I may be biased -

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


Target Practice posted:

gently caress me I want a 1911 but they are all so goddamn expensive.
Used to be Rock Island made some good, basic 1911s with a few nice things like upgraded sights for a reasonable amount. I used to have an Officer's sized one and it ran good, just got bored with it in the long run.

Granted things might be different right now but last I knew if you could swing $500-$600 you should have no problem getting a solid 1911, just without all the bells and whistles of the fancy brands.

edit: if you do go for a basic one I would suggest finding one with better than GI sights. GIs are serviceable for target shooting but kinda balls overall.

Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 11:07 on Aug 12, 2020

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Parts Kit posted:

Used to be Rock Island made some good, basic 1911s with a few nice things like upgraded sights for a reasonable amount. I used to have an Officer's sized one and it ran good, just got bored with it in the long run.

Granted things might be different right now but last I knew if you could swing $500-$600 you should have no problem getting a solid 1911, just without all the bells and whistles of the fancy brands.

edit: if you do go for a basic one I would suggest finding one with better than GI sights. GIs are serviceable for target shooting but kinda balls overall.

Note that specifically "right now" is a gently caress awful time to be buying any gun.

Quickshanks
Oct 3, 2011

So damned good.

https://imgur.com/a/kPqLOaN

https://youtu.be/yURRmWtbTbo

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.





I have a kimber custom II .45 that I absolutely love shooting.
I've had the itch to get another 9mm at some point. I have a beretta 92fs and I just don't care for it all that much (sloppy rear end trigger, big fat rear end).
I was considering going for either something like a sig p226 or a 9mm 1911. As this is the 1911 thread, I'm assuming the thread will fall more towards a 1911, but I'm wondering if anyone has specific comments to point me in the right direction.

I don't care for the feel of polymer pistols and I love the 1911 grip angle, that's why I'm not going into some of the more common 9mm options. This is by no means a "going to buy tomorrow" but more along the lines of keeping an eye out.

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

Am I a... bad person?
AM I??





Fun Shoe

For polymer framed pistols, I feel like the M&P line is more in line with the 1911 grip angle than the Glock, but I don't know if that's true.

I hear 9 mm 1911s are fun. My wife wants one of those, and one in 22.

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.





tarlibone posted:

For polymer framed pistols, I feel like the M&P line is more in line with the 1911 grip angle than the Glock, but I don't know if that's true.

I hear 9 mm 1911s are fun. My wife wants one of those, and one in 22.

Yes, you're correct in that the M&P is very similar in grip angle. When they came out I was absolutely picking one up until I shot my friends and absolutely hated the way it felt in my hands. It's a perfectly fine pistol, I just didn't like the way it felt.

Edit: Shot my friend's pistol, I didn't use one to shoot my friends.

flightless greeb
Jan 28, 2016



SA makes some not bad 9mm 1911s and recoil out of them is pretty much joke level which is definitely nice. Having 2x 1911s and no other pistols sounds pretty boring to me tho so I'm going to suggest a CZ, maybe something like a Shadow 2 or just a regular SP-01 if you want something cheaper. They're steel frame, not alloy like the Beretta or a non-stainless Sig 226, so recoil out of them is also pretty tame - just fun easy to shoot guns.

Alternatively if you want to spend even more you could look into a 2011 - available in 9mm as well as a billion other categories. There are some cheaper used offerings you could find from STI under normal circumstances, I assume everything is sold out of double priced right now.

DeesGrandpa
Oct 21, 2009



Buy whatever 9mm chambered dan wesson is the most aesthetically pleasing to you

ZebraBlade
Mar 26, 2010

Something is rotten in the state of Denmark

The RIA doublestack 9mm 1911/2011s are decent guns. Obviously not STI/SVI level but they are far from bad guns.

Remulak
Jun 8, 2001

The four most over-rated things in life are champagne, lobster, anal sex and picnics. Oh, and that stupid children's book 'The Little Prince,' ugh.


Yams Fan

flightless greeb posted:

I'm going to suggest a CZ, maybe something like a Shadow 2 or just a regular SP-01 if you want something cheaper. They're steel frame, not alloy like the Beretta or a non-stainless Sig 226, so recoil out of them is also pretty tame - just fun easy to shoot guns.

I literally have no time or place to shoot but goddamn do I want another CZ75 variant even more than a 1911. And I really want a 1911.

Cyrano4747 posted:

Note that specifically "right now" is a gently caress awful time to be buying any gun.
IMO now is probably the *best* time for the next year or maybe two. Which is why I should probably buy a 1911 and a CZ.

Instead I'll buy an recoiling co2 airsoft version of both and shoot at a bb trap from my desk.

Dr. Gojo Shioji
Apr 22, 2004



Remulak posted:

IMO now is probably the *best* time for the next year or maybe two. Which is why I should probably buy a 1911 and a CZ.

Why not two birds with one stone?

Time Crisis Actor
Apr 28, 2002


I sexually identify as a fat tinder girl,

Yeah lemme just clean my pannus first.

These candles smell amazing btw



When is this drat thing coming out?? It's been teased for like two years now

Remulak
Jun 8, 2001

The four most over-rated things in life are champagne, lobster, anal sex and picnics. Oh, and that stupid children's book 'The Little Prince,' ugh.


Yams Fan

UNF

Can't find in stock, thank god.

Reynold
Feb 14, 2012

Suffer not the unclean to live.

I recently acquired an Essex frame that I was told the previous owner botched a build with, and while I haven't encountered much difficulty in disassembly, I got down to the ejector and plunger tube being the only things left on the frame aaaaand....




The (unfinished) slide that came with it won't event go on with the smashed roll pin sticking out the left side of the channel, and it has clearly been forced once or twice. I tried to tap it out with a 1/16" punch, but it did not want to cooperate. This is my first 1911 takedown, and I'm not sure how to proceed without damaging the frame. I could live with the currently installed ejector I suppose, but the pin sticking out is bad news.

Additionally, While nothing seems wrong with the plunger tube or ejector, I was wondering if it is acceptable to see daylight between these two parts and the frame? Because I definitely can, and would hate to start in on this thing and discover afterwards that they're sticking out a hair too far and cause problems down the road.

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

Am I a... bad person?
AM I??





Fun Shoe

I've seen roll pin punches for sale. Maybe roll pins need a special punch?

Reynold
Feb 14, 2012

Suffer not the unclean to live.

tarlibone posted:

I've seen roll pin punches for sale. Maybe roll pins need a special punch?

Should've clarified, I used a roll pin punch on it, didn't budge.

Wa11y
Jul 23, 2002

Did I say "cookies?" I meant, "Fire in your face!"

You might try using a center punch to start that roll pin, you just need to be sure you stop when the pin starts moving, so you're not mashing the edge of the hole with the punch. A 1/16" punch might be too thin to get the pin moving before the punch bends, but a slightly thicker and pointed punch might get it moving. But I would only do that if the end of the roll pin is flush on the side you're pounding on, you don't want to risk flaring the pin, making it more impossible to get out.

Also, possibly heat or cold and pentrating oil could help, too.

Worst case, if you have access to a drill press, you could try to drill it out, but I'd save that as an absolute last resort, and go very slowly, and might even buy a # drill bit that's under 1/16".

As for the spring channel having space, it SHOULD be tight against the frame, you're supposed to flare the posts on the opposite side to keep it in place, so it should be tight. You could try to push it against the frame as tight as you can get, and load the spring and detents into it, and see if it will do its job where it is. But it really should be tight before you stake it, so there's no chance of movement or loosening. Flaring the posts MIGHT suck the channel the rest of the way against the frame, you just need to be sure you don't crush the channel while flaring. Support the channel with a punch inside it

Reynold
Feb 14, 2012

Suffer not the unclean to live.

Wa11y posted:

You might try using a center punch to start that roll pin, you just need to be sure you stop when the pin starts moving, so you're not mashing the edge of the hole with the punch. A 1/16" punch might be too thin to get the pin moving before the punch bends, but a slightly thicker and pointed punch might get it moving. But I would only do that if the end of the roll pin is flush on the side you're pounding on, you don't want to risk flaring the pin, making it more impossible to get out.

Also, possibly heat or cold and pentrating oil could help, too.

Worst case, if you have access to a drill press, you could try to drill it out, but I'd save that as an absolute last resort, and go very slowly, and might even buy a # drill bit that's under 1/16".

As for the spring channel having space, it SHOULD be tight against the frame, you're supposed to flare the posts on the opposite side to keep it in place, so it should be tight. You could try to push it against the frame as tight as you can get, and load the spring and detents into it, and see if it will do its job where it is. But it really should be tight before you stake it, so there's no chance of movement or loosening. Flaring the posts MIGHT suck the channel the rest of the way against the frame, you just need to be sure you don't crush the channel while flaring. Support the channel with a punch inside it

Unfortunately the roll pin is in there a good bit, what with there being a bunch of smashed roll pin on the opposite side, so I didn't think a center punch would work. I'll give it a good soak and then heat it up, that sounds like a plan.

Dr. Gojo Shioji
Apr 22, 2004



Would using an arbor/12 ton press be too risky with regards to warping/cracking the frame? I doubt it's be worth it to buy one of those for this single situation, but if you have access to one you might want to give it a shot.

ZebraBlade
Mar 26, 2010

Something is rotten in the state of Denmark

There might be some sort of retaining compound on the ejector roll pin? I know some people put a drop on the bottom legs of the ejector when building to give it a little extra hold, but can still be removed with a little heat if need be, maybe they did and some leaked into the roll pin hole?

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005

border patrol qt


Plaster Town Cop

Maaan, just when I was hoping SIG 1911s in .357 would be getting cheap, they're as expensive as ever. I blame the ammo panic.

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

Am I a... bad person?
AM I??





Fun Shoe

infrared35 posted:

Maaan, just when I was hoping SIG 1911s in .357 would be getting cheap, they're as expensive as ever. I blame the ammo panic.

My brain first read this as:

infrared35 posted:

Maaan, just when I was hoping SIG 1911s in .357 Magnum would be getting cheap, they're as expensive as ever. I blame the ammo panic.

... and I was all like, wait, Sig makes a 1911 in 357 mag? Because I know one company did that, but they're uncommon and expensive; why would these be getting cheap?

And then I thought, get the some caffeine, son.

tonedef131
Sep 3, 2003



Ejector pins are a pain because they are long, small and as stated before sometimes have loctite applied. Your best bet is to use a bench block with the pins exit point placed over one of the holes so all of the punches force goes directly into the pin. It also helps to have the block on the most reinforced part of your bench, ideally right over a leg or on a vice anvil. Then get a nice quality 1/16Ē punch like a Starret, a steel hammer, and hit it like you fuckin mean it.

Get another ejector pin too, you will not want to reuse that unless itís a solid EGW style one and even then youíd prob have to reshape the end. If loctite is present it can be cooked out with a torch but you risk heat distortion and honestly Iíve never had to. Iíve removed thousands with the above method and while Iíve gone through a lot of 1/16 punches, Iíve never failed to remove one.

Wa11y
Jul 23, 2002

Did I say "cookies?" I meant, "Fire in your face!"

Didn't realize putting any adhesive on a roll pin was normal. They usually need to be lubed.

If there is any adhesive, using a soldering iron or wood burning iron to put heat directly into the pin would be better than a torch or oven for heating up the whole frame. Just keep the heated iron on it, and you should see a puff of smoke when the adhesive gives up, then literally strike while the iron is hot.

Also, as mentioned, a bench block to support the frame so most of the impact is going into the pin would be an excellent idea.

tonedef131
Sep 3, 2003



I donít think people intentionally use it on the pin, but rather add it to the pocket in the frame for the front ejector leg. Then the pin goes through there and carries some gun glue with it.

Iíve personally had zero luck with the soldering iron technique due to the pin being surrounded by a giant heat sink. Itís worth a shot but typically it ends up being applied through the whole width of the frame, which is why brute force is usually the most effective route.

Ornamented Death
Jan 25, 2006

Pew pew!



Got this last weekend, cleaned it last night and plan to take it to the range tomorrow.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

Am I a... bad person?
AM I??





Fun Shoe

My wife saw that and almost cried. That's what she told me to post.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

flightless greeb
Jan 28, 2016



Neat! Is that an original series 70 or one of the new ones?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply