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The 2016 A/C Thread: Have you tried replacing your blend door?
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Jul 21, 2016 23:05
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 14:34 |
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:The 2016 A/C Thread: Have you tried replacing your blend door? If you have a GM vehicle produced in the past 10 years or so, it should be the first troubleshooting step.
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Jul 23, 2016 04:17
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meatpimp posted:2005 Cadillac Escalade with main and rear AC units. Motronic posted:Newp. Rear A/C has HUGE barrier hoses so more space to leak out of faster. You done good. Okay, so I may be overthinking things, but I wanted to double-check and found this: Similar ambient. 90psi static, both gauges. ~60psi low side ~200psi high side. I bled some off to get it down to 55psi low side, high side stayed the same. The only difference is that the humidity is now much higher than when I checked before. Cooling is still fine, 55* out of the center vent. I'm just worried that the low side is too high. Should I be concerned, or am I overthinking? Also, the compressor never cycles, it just keeps the pressures almost dead-on. Is that normal?
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Aug 1, 2016 17:11
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EVERYWHERE 
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Some cars use variable displacement compressors instead of cycling. They tend to be more expensive, so I could believe a Cadillac having one.
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Aug 1, 2016 17:19
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Enourmo posted:Some cars use variable displacement compressors instead of cycling. They tend to be more expensive, so I could believe a Cadillac having one. Its becoming a more common feature on lots of cars, mainly that the technology has come further and it makes more sense to just run the compressor all the time than create load shock of turning the compressor on and off.
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Aug 1, 2016 17:27
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I bought a car where the A/C didn't work. I gambled that it was low on coolant... and it was! Haggled the price down quite a lot because of it. But drat if I wasn't nervous while the machine was doing vacuum tests 'n poo poo. Not doing that again.
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Aug 2, 2016 15:34
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Enourmo posted:Some cars use variable displacement compressors instead of cycling. They tend to be more expensive, so I could believe a Cadillac having one. Even my Saturn uses a variable displacement compressor, e: guess not. Just looked up the part numbers on Rockauto, 05 Escalades use fixed displacement compressors. Model differs depending on if it has rear a/c, but all the model #s look like fixed displacement. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Aug 2, 2016 |
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Aug 2, 2016 21:39
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My compressor grenaded and shot tiny metal bits throughout my A/C system. Obviously I can't just replace the compressor & drier since there are still itty bitty metal torpedoes waiting to eat my new components, but I also want to replace as few things as possible cuz I'm poor  . I'm not gonna take a chance on the evaporator since there seems to be a high chance of not being able to flush that completely, but I'm curious about the rest of the system: what's flushable/clean-out-able enough to be trusted in a "new" A/C system?
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Aug 2, 2016 21:44
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scuz posted:what's flushable/clean-out-able enough to be trusted in a "new" A/C system? Lines, condenser if it's a single run of tube and not a parallel-flow type. Compressor and drier you mentioned, probably do the orifice tube/expansion valve too.
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Aug 2, 2016 21:51
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Enourmo posted:Lines, condenser if it's a single run of tube and not a parallel-flow type. Compressor and drier you mentioned, probably do the orifice tube/expansion valve too.
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Aug 2, 2016 22:01
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'99 Ford Ranger, A/C blows warm and the compressor cycles every 4-5 seconds on any of these heater settings: Don't have the money to fix the A/C right now but I don't want to damage the compressor by having it constantly cycling on/off. Could I pull a fuse or connector so I can keep using the floor vent settings?
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Aug 10, 2016 06:38
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The compressor is supposed to run on any variant of defrost, though it sounds like yours is low on refrigerant (hence the cycling and warm air). It shouldn't be running on the other two heat settings, only on the defrost settings, so that part is kinda odd. I think pulling that relay will keep the compressor from trying to engage. Should be in an underhood fuse/relay box, google suggests it's on the drivers side inner fender near the firewall. e: if that pic doesn't line up, I may have grabbed a picture from the wrong year model.  If you have the owner's manual, it'll be in there.
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Aug 10, 2016 07:20
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*Edit I'm an idiot. Turns out the compressor was just cycling, causing my gauge to spike. Combine with the condensor heat soak, it gave me some low readings. IEverything is good (enough) for now, I swear it took 2-3 key cycles to get the compressor functioning normal, so I'll have to look into that. I get 45-50F temps out the vents and it was incrediby nice to have AC for my trip.
the spyder fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Aug 21, 2016 |
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Aug 21, 2016 01:23
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 14:34 |
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Remember the compressor draws refrigerant out of the low side; if you had a blockage, it would be approaching 0 psi, not getting higher. And the evaporator would ice, not the condenser. What was the high side doing when this happened? 125 psi is roughly the static pressure at 100F, which seems about right for underhood temps in summer.
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Aug 21, 2016 02:34
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