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SPOUT leading-edge is indeed the trigger to make the TFI fire the coil. According to this page, the TFI will also run on a limp timing map if it doesn't get SPOUT on the rising edge of the PIP signal. http://www.myo-p.com/Ford-EEC/EEC%20Help%20files/Files/TFI_grey_or_black.html It sounds like the "push start" (grey module) one actually has a pin called "START SIGNAL," which would appear consistent with the fuel pump priming. Only the "black" module has the pins you described. Are you sure you got the right one? The page describes the black module as "early 90s," but you have a 1990... e: Never mind, it sounds like that throws a poo poo ton of CELs if you run the wrong module. That's probably not the concern. Shoring up the grounds seems like a solid idea to me, and #40 and #60 sure look like a "true ground" on the ECU wiring diagram to me. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Jul 28, 2014 |
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Jul 28, 2014 20:28
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Blaise posted:Well I spent a solid 8 hours trying to get the truck fixed. Don't think I'm any closer. I hate the drat tfi modules. Two questions: Where did you get it, and what color is it. I've gotten 3 bad ones in a row from parts shops. If it's not Motorcraft, I wouldn't trust it. If you have a black module in a manual truck (grey is the push start module), it would cause some weird stuff. Supposedly you get CELs if you have the wrong one, but not always. Also, double check your SPOUT test. http://www.myo-p.com/Ford-EEC/EEC%20Help%20files/Files/TFI_grey_or_black.html Edit: drat, didn't see the next page. Seat covered all that.
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Jul 29, 2014 02:10
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Between this thread and Seat Safety Switch's gentle prodding in IRC, I was convinced to pick up my own cheap beater bricknose truck. 88 Ford Bronco 4x4, 351W/C6 transmission, 116k miles. Structurally excellent, body has some rot but nothing some sheet metal and a welder can't fix. After I sell the brand new mud tires and RIMZ and other misc. junk that came with it, I will have been basically paid to take it.    
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Jul 29, 2014 13:27
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So front wheel hubs, 50 rock auto special or 100 timkins?
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Jul 29, 2014 15:05
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Elephanthead posted:So front wheel hubs, 50 rock auto special or 100 timkins? Timken. Do it right once.
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Jul 29, 2014 17:02
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Nice find. Old full sized Broncos are the poo poo.
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Jul 29, 2014 21:15
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The rear end is going out on my trusty $700 94 Mazda B3000. Junkyard axles look to be plentiful and WAY cheaper than what I've been quoted for a rebuild, so I'm thinking about going that route. How difficult is this going to be for someone who's comfortable turning a wrench but hasn't done this before? Anything I should be aware of when pulling the part besides making sure gear ratios match up with what I have now? Anything else I should look to replace as a "while I'm in there" sort of thing that isn't going to cost me an arm and leg?
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Aug 2, 2014 00:32
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http://details.maauctions.com/AutolistingYEG_Detail.aspx?Link=7/8/2014^2FTEF15N9TCA44946 It's an automatic, but god drat, 48500kms(30,000 miles) on a 96 5.0. The thing's a loving time capsule   [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/5RfvFCw.jpg[/IMG
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Aug 8, 2014 04:34
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Viper_3000 posted:The rear end is going out on my trusty $700 94 Mazda B3000. Junkyard axles look to be plentiful and WAY cheaper than what I've been quoted for a rebuild, so I'm thinking about going that route. How difficult is this going to be for someone who's comfortable turning a wrench but hasn't done this before? Anything I should be aware of when pulling the part besides making sure gear ratios match up with what I have now? Anything else I should look to replace as a "while I'm in there" sort of thing that isn't going to cost me an arm and leg? I am assuming that is the same as a ranger - just grab the right ratio out of the same body style. Make sure there isn't a perch width difference, there shouldn't be. Stuff to replace at the same time: Axle Ubolts Maybe the swaybar links if they look bad Shocks if they look bad Leaf bushings, but only if actually worn out. Crummy aftermarket replacements typically wear out many times faster than even a 20 year old OEM bushing and leaf bushings can be a bastard to do. Take a peek at the rear shackle hangars, common failure on ford pickups and you will be removing most of the load from them so it would be easier Brake hardlines, soft line, and cylinders if they are worn out or badly corroded since you will have two sets to choose from and will be bleeding the brakes anyways. If both sets are junk, new lines are cheap at the dealer and cylinders are almost cheaper than rebuilding them. kastein fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Aug 8, 2014 |
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Aug 8, 2014 13:04
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My Scion xB has run the last of its 103 horsepower, so I've been looking for a beater truck to replace it. I figured I'd ask this here, as this seems to be the truck thread. I found this in my online searches tonight, ran the carfax on it. 171k miles, but 60k on the current engine, cat converter was replaced, and it had an accident around 42,000 miles that the ad doesn't mention. Also the engine replacement was done at a "local ford dealer", but doesn't appear in the service history. Figured I'd check it out and offer $4500, see what happens. Any thoughts?
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Aug 28, 2014 10:04
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Someone else will be along to give you more specific advice but around here that color blue in a ranger means it's a fleet vehicle, which is a good sign for the condition of the truck. If you'd be the first private owner it should have had regular maintenance up to this point. They say they've changed the engine but does that transmission have 170k on it? As far the accident two of my friends have former fleet ford trucks and they both got hit in the rear and their beds replaced - it didn't impact the truck at all. For my two cents used fleet trucks are an great deal and more people should look into them for a cheap vehicle.
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Aug 29, 2014 16:44
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FAT SLAMPIG posted:My Scion xB has run the last of its 103 horsepower, so I've been looking for a beater truck to replace it. I figured I'd ask this here, as this seems to be the truck thread. $4500 would be a decent deal, $7500 is definitely way loving high. Keep in mind while you're looking that the only substantial changes to the Ranger from 1998-on are in terms of engines - the 2.5L Pinto was replaced by the 2.3L Duratec, the 3.0 eventually went away, and the 4.0 I think switched from the pushrod version to the SOHC version by the end. They changed out gauges and lights and a couple of body panels here and there but those really don't change that much about a beater truck.
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Aug 29, 2014 21:46
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42,000 mileage a year and they want $7500 for it?
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Aug 29, 2014 23:38
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My latest purchase for 1700. I could have probably brought them down on price but I feel good about it.
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Aug 29, 2014 23:54
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FAT SLAMPIG posted:I found this in my online searches tonight, ran the carfax on it. 171k miles, but 60k on the current engine, cat converter was replaced, and it had an accident around 42,000 miles that the ad doesn't mention. Also the engine replacement was done at a "local ford dealer", but doesn't appear in the service history. Dealers don't use yellow marker when they replace engines. Junkyards do, though, for inventory reasons. fake edit: googled the VIN, found the original advertisement. It's a used engine, and as Jack B Nimble pointed out, it's a former fleet truck. Company logos are still on it in that link.
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Aug 30, 2014 18:53
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Senior Funkenstien posted:My latest purchase for 1700 Give those headlights a quick polish and that will look rad as hell, nice pick up. Nothing like seeing a small truck from the 90s bone stock and maintained relatively properly.
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Aug 30, 2014 20:06
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Extra posted:Give those headlights a quick polish and that will look rad as hell, nice pick up. Nothing like seeing a small truck from the 90s bone stock and maintained relatively properly. Whats even better is its got one owner from when it was bought new and its 270k miles on it. It was mechanic owned so they took very good care of it, the guy even took it to get an oil change and buy some floormats and wiper blades for it before he gave it to me. I love this little truck.
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Aug 30, 2014 21:52
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Whats even better is its got one owner from when it was bought new and its 270k miles on it. It was mechanic owned so they took very good care of it, the guy even took it to get an oil change and buy some floormats and wiper blades for it before he gave it to me. I love this little truck. $1700 was a steal with that kind of care/history, even with the high mileage. That was my favorite style of Ranger too (color matched bumpers+grill w/step side bed)
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Sep 1, 2014 09:06
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My pops dropped this cheap truck off at my place this morning: A 91 Nissan pickup. Not even sure what model it is, as far as I can tell it's just called a Nissan pickup? My parents were snowbirding between Phoenix and Kansas City, but decided to sell the place in the midwest. Now they have no need for this, which my dad was using to put around town when he was here. He has his ~5 year old 1500 and has no need for, or place to put this. Figured I might want it. If not, we are probably going it dump it on craigslist. The only reason I even bring it up in a thread full of cheap trucks, is that it's really goddamned amazing how well cars survive in the AZ state. Here's this 23 year old Nissan, and honestly I can't find a bit of concerning rust on the thing. The exhaust has a bit, of course, but otherwise it's in decent shape. Had this been in KC for 23 years, it'd look like hell.      I mean it's dirty as all get-out, but it just seems like it's in such good shape. Blame Pyrrhus fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Sep 1, 2014 |
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Sep 1, 2014 22:16
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With all of these I have seen I just had assumed the frame came rusted from the factory. Color me impressed. These trucks are fun but they are rust magnets where I live.
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Sep 1, 2014 22:20
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I still see plenty of these on the road every day. They're pretty drat solid, though if you hear a rattle on startup you'll need to replace the timing chain guides eventually. Someone I used to work with years ago used an 89 version for delivery. In 2000, she had over 300k on it, and the only major work it'd ever needed was a steering rack, rear end, and clutch.
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Sep 1, 2014 23:42
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Linux Nazi posted:
Nissan hardbody is the general name for those, they have half a dozen actual model names for the different variants in different countries, but they're all called a hardbody
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Sep 3, 2014 10:44
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some texas redneck posted:I still see plenty of these on the road every day. They're pretty drat solid, though if you hear a rattle on startup you'll need to replace the timing chain guides eventually. The only problem those cars have is the frame rots out. Ive seen many Nissan hardbodys around Chicago that weren't safe to lift on a regular rack. Those trucks instantly got the alignment rack when they came in. I have seen some where I could fist the frame rust holes. Also seen some of the repairs people in and around Chicago have done, and lets say that I wish Nissan did a buy back of those trucks like Toyota did. It just sucks they rust like that because they are indestructable
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Sep 3, 2014 13:34
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In Canada I think they're called a "Frontier". I knew a Nissan tech who had the Nissan Supercharged v6 installed, dual transfer cases, triangulated link suspension front and rear, exo cage, big tires. It was a great wheeler.
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Sep 3, 2014 21:36
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jonathan posted:In Canada I think they're called a "Frontier". I knew a Nissan tech who had the Nissan Supercharged v6 installed, dual transfer cases, triangulated link suspension front and rear, exo cage, big tires. It was a great wheeler. The hardbody was the precursor to the Frontier.
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Sep 3, 2014 21:40
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Alright after this poor truck sitting for 2 months I've finally pulled the ECU and ordered a replacement on ebay. Hopefully in a week or so it will be all fixed. Why? It's gonna be cold soon and I need to haul a few thousand lbs of wood back to the house. Also, dirtbikes. 
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Sep 16, 2014 04:44
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Ha. After replacing the distributor twice, the ICM three times, checking all wiring, changing coil, etc etc etc. It was just a bad ECU. $48 shipped on ebay. She's all fixed. Time to haul some stuff 
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Sep 24, 2014 17:23
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Well, I guess it does happen - but how many times have we all seen people blame the ECU when it's almost never the real problem?
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Sep 24, 2014 17:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:Well, I guess it does happen - but how many times have we all seen people blame the ECU when it's almost never the real problem? ALL THE TIME. Which is why I was sure it wasn't it. Whoops. Also replaced the lockset, ignition switch, relays, ugh, what else. All cheap stuff tho.
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Sep 24, 2014 17:31
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Got a random guy asking me if I'd sell him my old mazda today.  And in the front of the house there is: A set of upper and lower ball joints, A new muffler and tailpipe, A full set of all of the coolant hoses Just waiting for me to get some time to start bolting poo poo together. Oh yeah, I got a thank you email from rockauto with a coupon code for 5% off. But I'm set for a good while and it does expire. Anyone want it? If so PM me (and mention it here please).
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Sep 24, 2014 18:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:Well, I guess it does happen - but how many times have we all seen people blame the ECU when it's almost never the real problem? Like DrPain said, there are definitely exceptions. This is one of them apparently... Alls I can say is that it's practically unheard of for a JTEC engine controller to go bad UNLESS you leave damaged/badly worn sparkplugs in and drive around with your foot on the floor. That'll nuke the ignition coil drivers in a hurry, as my parents found out, but that's about it. I didn't know that Ford made lovely ECUs, kinda surprised honestly.
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Sep 24, 2014 20:40
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Another thread to post my recent cheap truck purchase in! Largely copied and pasted fron the "recommend me a cheap truck thread."  It's a 2000 Mazda B2500 (aka Ford Ranger) with the 2.5L engine, same as the 2.3L (and most of the same parts) but bored a little larger. 5 speed manual, regular cab. It's a stripper model, so no A/C, no cruise control, no power windows or locks. It has a decent-enough aftermarket CD player. There is some rust, but not a lot. Timing belt is decent, fresh oil, fresh-ish battery. Clutch feels great and the engine runs great. 138k miles on it. I paid eight hundred dollars. This is in northern Indiana. I've been using it, and it gives me such a stupid grin every time I use it.  
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Sep 24, 2014 20:51
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kastein posted:I didn't know that Ford made lovely ECUs, kinda surprised honestly. Caps maybe? I've seen other ECUs die from bad caps, but they were always Asian manufacturers.
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Sep 24, 2014 20:54
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Late 80s and early 90s Voyagers/Caravans had an awful ECU design that put the top halves of aluminum electrolytic caps directly in the line of fire from any FOD sucked up by the intake... pre-filter... so I wouldn't be too surprised. Ours died a horrible death at the hands of rock salt sandblasting. Those and ignition coil drivers tend to take the worst beating. And voltage regulators occasionally especially if some dipshit tries to jump the battery with the polarity reversed.
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Sep 24, 2014 21:00
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Parts Kit posted:
Those codes aren't restricted use, and there's usually a bunch of them on Retailmenot anyway. Just FYI. 
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Sep 24, 2014 21:11
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Blaise posted:Ha. After replacing the distributor twice, the ICM three times, checking all wiring, changing coil, etc etc etc. Am I the one who blamed it on the ECU ? If so sweet I like being right.
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Sep 24, 2014 23:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:Those codes aren't restricted use, and there's usually a bunch of them on Retailmenot anyway. Just FYI.
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Sep 24, 2014 23:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:Well, I guess it does happen - but how many times have we all seen people blame the ECU when it's almost never the real problem? This is what makes it the worst when it actually is the ECU. I blew so many coil packs and tried so much troubleshooting on a maxima once not believing it could be the ECU
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Sep 25, 2014 03:27
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Blaise posted:Whoops. Also replaced the lockset, ignition switch, relays, ugh, what else. All cheap stuff tho. The upside is you know the rest of the electrical is up to snuff to drive across the country, right? Be glad an ECU is affordable, and doesn't need to be flashed to match the vehicle. I'd be on the verge of bankruptcy if I had to replace my ECU.. since it'd have to either involve a dealer or someone damned skilled with a Tech2 tool. Goes for pretty much every recent vehicle, actually. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:05 on Sep 25, 2014 |
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Sep 25, 2014 10:01
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I'm shocked its the ECU. Usually that era of Ford had little issues if any with it. As STR said be glad its so cheap and a plug and play unit!
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Sep 25, 2014 14:49
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