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Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Mayostard posted:

I am looking to build a new PC and my budget is around $600 Canadian. My current system uses a Core 2 Duo E6750@2.66 GHz and Radeon HD 4850, so when I saw that I couldn't play a lot of upcoming games I decided to upgrade. My monitor runs at 1920x1080, so I'm not looking for anything too powerful, I'd just like to get a good frame rate on medium-high settings.

I think I can use my current case and PSU to keep costs down since they are both in great condition. The case is a NZXT Hush and I have a 550w PSU.

Please be wary of reusing old PSUs as they can ruin your whole system when they die.



In saying that even decent ones can go boom as my 4 year old Corsair VX550 (non builder model) died on me last week, got a RM650 to replace it.

I can only hope the remaining components are viable otherwise it's byebye i5-760 and hello i5-4570 time! :eng101:

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Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Saki posted:

Hi. I'm looking to build a gaming pc that should last a couple years or so, capable of playing The Witcher 3 etc. Would this build work okay?

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/3wmCR

Lose the Corsair CX psu, the CX ones have bad rep for going boom but their other lines are pretty good, please read the OP for decent options on all components :)

If you are not overclocking go for a non K version of you cpu and motherboard.

Not sure if your ram has a low enough profile as nice big chunky heat spreaders can interfere with your cpu cooling.

edit *beaten like an unloved stepchild* :(

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Has anyone had experience with the Silverstone Fortress FT03 case?

I really like its shape and small footprint but the internal layout is a bit unusual.

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

burnsep posted:

Hey guys, About 6 years ago I bought the Logitech S510 mouse/keyboard bundle as part of a new build, and I've been very happy with it. The keyboard in particular is great. However, the mouse left button is crapping out and I haven't been able to sovle the issue by cleaning it or yelling at it. It may be time to buy a new one.

That said, do all Logitech wireless mice work with the base I have? I'd really prefer to keep the keyboard if possible, it's very comfortable.

Check out the thread called : Should i buy a $100 dollar mouse? it's sort of the everything mouse related thread these days. :)

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Circumstances have led to me getting a pre-built computer from Curry's (UK); Asus Essentio Series M11AA-UK009s.

Anyways i opened it up and inside is an Asus P8H61-M motherboard with a Delta PSU (300w), all wrapped up with a dvd layer, 500gb HD and wireless network card.

Workable and cheap but sadly deficient in graphics which is what i would like to rectify: would i be able to get away with fitting either of these; MSI AMD R7 250 1GD5 OC, Gigabyte AMD R7 250 OC 2GB DDR3 ? No 6 pin connectors available for anything beefier.

Can disconnect the wireless card & dvd if it will help.

Words of wisdom would be appreciated. :allears:




edited for spelling

Just Another Lurker fucked around with this message at 16:40 on May 6, 2014

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

The Lord Bude posted:

The most powerful graphics card you can use without 6 pin connectors is the Nvidia gtx750ti (Be careful I think there are some more heavily overclocked variants that do need a 6 pin, most should be fine though). 300w is fine as long as the PSU is good quality. Double check dimensions and whatnot to make sure it fits.

Appreciate the quick reply. :)

I actually prefer Nvidia but the over £50 price difference between Nvidia/AMD at Amazon(free shipping) etc is making AMD worthwhile.

PSU quiality is probably debatable as it's one item that budget pre-builts usually skimp on but if i can get a year out of it i shall be content.

My old i5-760 was running an Asus gtx 460 while playing STO, Rift and :xcom: anything matching that level will do me.

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

The Lord Bude posted:

Just to be clear, the R7 250 isn't even in the same ballpark as the gtx750ti; it's approximately half the performance. As far as gaming goes it's practically at 'why would you even bother' levels. It pretty much exists so that OEMs have something cheap to shove in a PC and proudly proclaim '1gb graphics!!!!' to ignorant consumers. I'm not convinced it would even be able to outperform a gtx460.

I think you would be wasting your money if you bought one. Even a gtx750 would be much better if you can't quite afford the 750ti.

And of course that doesn't even account for the ridiculously good power efficiency of the gtx750 and 750ti that make it use like half the power.

Thanks for enlightening me, since i'm back to square one i will see if i can get a MSI NVIDIA GTX 750Ti Gaming card. :)

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Thanks again to The Lord Bude for directing me away from cheap/crap graphics cards.

Now rocking a MSI 750ti Twin Frozr (no 6pin connector required!) and it's a bit of a shock playing my crappy MMOs on max settings. :)

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Don't forget the bit where you get so nervous about the first power up that you just leave it for a day..



........ that was just me then was it? :ohdear:

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Are the non "Gaming" motherboards from MSI ok?

UK supply of Asus is a bit low atm.... no way am i buying Gigabyte, this one caught my eye: MSI H97I AC Intel LGA1150 H97 Mini ITX.

Thoughts? :)

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Cheers for that. :)

Finally got money to burn due to overtime so i'm just starting to plan the build.

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Cardboard Box A posted:

So just asking again, in terms of cases, Fractal Design Mini, tj08e, or that weird bitfenix prodigy-like aquilla?

http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3623433&pagenumber=64&perpage=40#post430642241

As i'm focusing on small size i ruled out the Prodigy (lovely looking though it is) & Aerocool DS.

The TJ08-E was on my shortlist, a nice review from YT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buPdEMRZx10 , removable motherboard tray, removable HD cage (for unblocked air flow to cooler), takes ATX size PSU and can take a large CPU cooler.

Currently i'm aiming for the CM Elite 110, time will tell if i bugger it up or not. :eng99:

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

pumpie2 posted:

Okay so two quick questions about my build.
The board I will be getting is the MSI H97M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard and reading through the last couple of pages of this thread something that keeps coming up is killer-NICs. Is that something I need to worry about with this board? what exactly is a killer NIC?
Also I have been looking at power supplies and I really don't know where to start, do I need modular or non-modular? I am a first time builder so would one be easier for me? I have picked the SeaSonic 550W ATX12V / EPS12V beacuase that was what was suggested to me but I don't know if I should have picked a modular unit. Again I have literally no idea here so I need this explained to me in the simplest terms possible.

Just to clarify for anyone as loving confused as i was that "Killer" refers to the manufacturer; "Killer Gaming" and not just a derogotary term for the NIC (network interface controller).

Look for a NIC made by Intel where possible.

edit: christ i'm a bloody slow poster. :sotw:

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

SolitarySolidarity posted:

I already have a Corsair vx550w, but I thought that was a little weak by todays standard?

That's the three year old psu that fried my computer... kill it with fire!

Slight over reaction on my part probably but i'm just going to stear clear of Corsair this time round, surprising that they look to dominate the UK psu market.

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

deimos posted:

Uhh, they are not bad PSUs, it frying your computer was a freak occurrence or a surge. The VX is a decent CWT build with Japanese caps.

Yeah sorry about that, didn't mean to muddy the waters too much, just at the time of my build i felt so smug at not getting a CX. :kiddo:

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

kholli posted:

Switched up a couple things, got the price down more towards my price range.

Holding off on the monitor for now

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/LymK23

Noctua cpu coolers come with their own thermal paste if you want to shave off a few bucks.



On a Noctua related note would a Noctua NH-L9i CPU Cooler be ok for an i5-4690 non K cpu?

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Stan Taylor posted:

This is more general upkeep than building really, but I got my air blasty thing from amazon. Should I unplug my PC before opening the case or do anything special? I know when I opened up my laptop I held down on the power button before opening it. Any similar precautions I should take?

Speaking for myself i would disconnect the power and touch a radiator or something else that was grounded before using it and when blowing air round the fans hold your finger to the blades to stop them moving, not good for them (please don't try this with an actively powered fan btw).

Saner minds may have better advice. :)

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

I'm not going to be buying the parts till next friday, looking to see if i have made any errors in my build.

It's for gaming; Civ 5, STO, Rift, Defiance & the new XCOM.

PartPicker list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/JAL86/saved/YkYLrH

CPU Intel i5 4690
COOLER Noctua NH-L12
MOTHERBOARD Asus H97M-PLUS
MEMORY Corsair CMX8GX3M2B
STORAGE Samsung MZ-7TE250BW
VIDEO CARD MSI 750Ti TF 2GD5/OC
CASE Silverstone SG10B
POWER SUPPLY Antec HCG-620M

Went with a micro atx case to save space.

The psu was cheaper than the 520w version & still fits in the case, i have an unused 1tb WD blue on hand for storage and already have Win 8 for it.

Price is £713.05 but i already have the video card so it comes to £598.19

Critique appreciated. :)

edit: all parts from Amazon except the case (Scan.co.uk), some parts not showing their source for some reason.

Just Another Lurker fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Jun 22, 2014

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Peanut3141 posted:

Your pcpartpicker link is to a private part list.

Oops!!! :blush:

Hopefully that sorted it

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Zero VGS posted:

Not really, the single fan models keep the card well under 70c even with the hardest overclocks. The dual fan version is silly overkill, probably just for psychological effect. I have both types for sale from a link a few posts back.

edit: The dual fan models however, often require a power cable to be plugged in, and all the single fan models that I've seen get power entirely from the PCI slot.

The MSI 750ti Twin Frozr Gaming (silly long name) does not require a power cable at least, it'll keep me happy till they apply Maxwell to the bigger cards :)

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

BurritoJustice posted:

Dual fan coolers and 6 pin power connectors on 750 TI's are unnecessary and don't add anything to the card. Hell, they hinder the two biggest boons of the 750ti, size and easy of installation/choice of PSU. I'd recommend two options, a super cheap reference like option from one of the budget brands (Galaxy, Gainward and Palit all make practically identical cards), or an EVGA one for the sole reason that they replace the VGA connector with Displayport which is nice to have.

If you are already looking at outfitting a system with a fullsized power supply that can handle a large card, consider stepping up to a AMD R9 270x if you want a substantial boost. This will come at a cost of power consumption however. At the same price point the R7 265 is also an option, but I don't believe the marginal additional performance (15% at stock, 0% to losing when the 750ti is overclocked) is worth the more than doubled power consumption and hence greater noise/heat output.

Sorry to harp on about the 750ti but if you get the MSI Twin Frozr Gaming version you have a card running nicely with no 6 pin power connector in sight and its quiet.

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Viking_Helmet posted:

Anything big I'm missing here? Use is general gaming and data visualization work.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($223.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($86.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Western Digital Red 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB DirectCU II Video Card ($229.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Nanoxia NXDS4B MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($114.86 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 450W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($52.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1128.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

Overclocking motherboard with a non overclock chip, swap to a 4690K version if you want to overclock. :)

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Viking_Helmet posted:

Ah, that's what the Z stands for... no real interest in overclocking, so would this be the motherboard to go with? http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asrock-motherboard-h97mpro4

Think that should be good (see what the smarter than me people say before you commit though), one caveat is you would lose the benefit of your 1866 ram, H97 goes up to 1600 and throttles down anything faster.

EDIT: see what Lord Bude said below, spend $4 to get the K version and add the Hyper212 EVO to your original choices leaving you in the position to overclock at a later date if you like.

Apologies if this is making the choices more complicated.

Just Another Lurker fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Jul 1, 2014

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Was fitting my cooler to the cpu when it separated (i need three hands for this job! :( ), do i need to remove the thermal compound and reapply? :suicide:

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

DinosaurHouseParty posted:

Starting over is just the step between figuring out how much compound you have left and getting the cooler on there perfectly. I don't know if its worth it in pure performance terms but a well seated heatsink has always made me feel better about my rig.

Sound advice, current temp at idle is 32c but will reseat the cooler before i install it in the case.

Currently pulling my hair out over how Win 8.1 doesn't play nice with the internet (already posted in Haus Of Tech Support). :ohdear:

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Reggie Died posted:

What is a comfortable CPU temp at idle?

I just transfered my components from a tower (Antec One) to a horizontal HTPC case (Silverstone GD09). I'm now idling at 38-45ish, with the GPU at 46c. Doing the Intel Burn Test, the cpu temp never went over 80c.

I never bothered checking temps before, so have no basis. But the computer froze on me shortly after the build, and since it's now enclosed in a cabinet, heat was my first thought.

It's a i5-3570 for reference, and GTX660 GPU. I'll probably just get a 212 to be safe...possibly an extra 120m fan.


I think my idle temp was ok but under load is what counts in the end.

My fan is a teeny weeny Noctua NH9i but i was all fingers & thumbs during installation, removed it about an hour ago as i could just see thermal paste poking over the edge of the cpu.

DinasourHouseParty had the right idea.

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

SweetJahasus posted:

So I've always owned poo poo computers (Dells) and decided to finally build my own and am looking for some people who are smarter than me to affirm my decisions. I've done a bunch of research and think this should all be good. I'm mainly going to be using this for pretty modest video editing (side job) and some light gaming (FFXIV, which can run really well on my shitbox Dell already so I'm not worried). Any critiques would be appreciated.

Also, for the CPU, I've heard that the i5-4690K is pretty much just a better i5-4670K (and is only like 10-15 bucks more) so should I just get that while I'm building something new?

Here's partpicker link: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/RxKCFT

Gigabyte motherboard and Corsair CX line of power supplies are both of dubious quality, MSI, Asus, Asrock are good motherboard alternatives & Seasonic, Antec, XFX for power supplies.

Post what movie software you are using as someone with more knowledge of that aspect could help you out there.

Have a good read of the first page of this thread, lots of good info on nearly everything. :)

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

SierraNovember posted:

I'm pretty close to ordering a new GPU, I think I'm really sold on the 750ti, price wise and performance from what be researched and been told from here. I read it doesn't require external power though? Anything to be worries about?

The MSI 750i Twin Frozr does not need external power so that one at least is an option if you want something quiet with lower power usage.

EDIT: that Asus is a tenner cheaper though. :)

Just Another Lurker fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Jul 6, 2014

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Midnight City posted:


Edit: I think more google searches are showing the Evo doesn't fit so just to be safe I should order a new one, what is the goon recommended lower profile cooler? Ideally in the <$50 range if there is one.

Don't know the US price but a Noctua NH-L12 might do, it's only 93mm/3.66" high, bound to be others as well if that works out expensive.

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

Panic! at Nabisco posted:

Okay, here's something weird. I already have everything on this list except the CPU and mobo, and am including the others to ask about the wisdom of purchasing those two in relation to my other parts. (My current CPU is an AMD Phenom II X6 1040T and my mobo is a Gigabyte GA-970A-D3 (Socket AM3+), so this is a definite upgrade and I regret being young and stupid and buying AMD for gaming because it had big numbers for cheap.)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($198.98 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($92.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair XMS3 8GB (4 x 2GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($83.19 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($134.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 660W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $835.10
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

Is the CPU a little too beefy for the rest of the system? Mostly I'm looking for a way to scrape pennies off of it, because I'm cheap and spending $200 on it hurts me.

Non overclocking cpu and an overclock capable motherboard, could save some cash by switching to a different MB from ASrock/MSI/Asus that doesn't support overclocking (anything with a Z means overclockable).

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

The Lord Bude posted:

Silverstone cases tend to be:

1. expensive
2. really hard to build in for relatively inexperienced builders - Silverstone does some really neat things with cramming ridiculous amounts of computer into small and unusual form factors, but actually assembling a pc in those things can be a real puzzle.

In addition, that review isn't providing the full picture - noise. Those 180mm silverstone fans aren't called air penetrators for nothing. At higher speeds they sound like jet engines. The Phanteks fans are designed to cool quietly.

I know you ain't a fan of Silverstone but i wonder how the SG10 would work with Noctuas instead of penetrators.

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009


Appreciate the clarification. :tipshat:

I nearly went with the SG10 but went for a CM Elite 130 (i currently have it standing on its face & raised up on two bits of wood to help airflow until i replace the "front" fan for a static pressure one), it's insane but it works (looks like a poor mans Silverstone FT03). :downs:

Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

The Lord Bude posted:

That's actually a pretty good tiny case choice, for anyone happy to stick to a low profile air cooler. I'd ditch the silly 80mm fan side fan though.

First thing i did; what i read and saw about it said the 80mm was just extra noise for no benefit, i'm very happy with it.

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Just Another Lurker
May 1, 2009

The Lord Bude posted:

If you really want to go crazy you could fit the thing out with demciflex filters for those side panels - is the PSU intake and front intake filtered?

I got four of those to be exact, for front intake, psu vent & 2 for the gpu intake(two squares were cheaper than a long rectangle). :homebrew:

They are damned good filters btw.

EDIT to clarify: The 130 came with mesh filters for front & psu that looked far too big in diameter to be useful and absolutely nothing for the sides.

Just Another Lurker fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Oct 11, 2014

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