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Someone on craigslist is selling this build for $600, whereas the components come out to ~$700. He built it a few months ago. http://pcpartpicker.com/user/jpanside/saved/3TwI It's almost the same as what I spec'ed out for myself a few days ago with a i5 4570. The only sketchy thing I see is that the PSU is a Corsair CX series which the OP says to avoid. The main difference is that the GPU is a GTX 750Ti, whereas I would have bought a GTX 760. My use case will be playing fairly intensive FPS games (Battlefield, Arma, etc.) on a 1080p monitor. I don't care so much about 100% max settings, but I would like the games to look nice. More importantly I want to still be able to play games that come out within the next 3 years. Is the 750 Ti going to be a significant downgrade over the 760 for my case?
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Apr 8, 2014 21:29
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Hace posted:I would heavily recommend against buying whole computers off of Craigslist, especially if you're only saving $100 (and also because you shouldn't use Crucial SSDs or CX PSUs). Okay, thanks for the advice everyone.
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Apr 8, 2014 22:06
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I'm getting ready to order the parts for my first custom PC, thanks to the great help in this thread. I have a few questions, mainly about the case. I'll post the parts list first then describe my use case. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B85M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($67.49 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($138.57 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card (Purchased For $239.20) Case: Corsair 350D MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ OutletPC) Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 62205ANHMWDTX1 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($35.99 @ Amazon) Total: $896.19 I'm trying to stay under $900, but could go up to $1000. I'll mainly be gaming with it on a single 1080p monitor. Eventually I might want to add another monitor, but not for anything graphics intensive on the side. The SeaSonic 520W PSU seems like overkill on wattage, but it was the cheapest modular PSU and is reportedly much quieter than the Rosewill. I'm also not sure about the case. Since this is my first time assembling a PC, I'd like the case to be fairly hassle-free and accommodating of neat wiring. And since my apartment is pretty dusty, good dust protection is important to me too. I'm willing to spend more on the case if it will improve in those areas. Does the Corsair 350D seem like the best case for me, or would there be a better one for neat-wiring and dust protection?
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Apr 10, 2014 07:14
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The Lord Bude posted:corsair is best in class for ease of use. If dust is a concern, buy a second 140mm intake fan to maintain positive pressure, and demciflex filters for at least the top panel. Those look like great filters, I'll pick some up to be safe. I'll hold off on the extra fan for now and see how it goes. Thanks for the great advice everyone!
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Apr 11, 2014 03:10
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Hace posted:They come out pretty easily for me, are you sure you're squeezing the tabs enough? Cool, that will save me some money. Thanks.
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Apr 11, 2014 03:44
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Are Seagate HDDs to be avoided? Their 7200RPM drives are significantly cheaper than WD and Hitachi, especially 2 to 3 GB and up. And yet they are noticeable absent from the OP's recommended HDD brands. http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/internal-hard-drive/#t=7200&S=3000000,6000000&sort=a10 I will have an SDD, but want to run a linux partition off a separate, cheaper disk, so I'm guessing I want 7200RPM. Is Seagate fine or are they not worth the $30 - $40 savings over WD/Hitachi?
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Apr 12, 2014 21:01
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When putting together a new PC is it worth it to reflash the motherboard BIOS to a new version, even if the updates are minor and everything is working fine?
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Apr 16, 2014 22:14
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Hace posted:Memory is memory, doesn't really matter. I'd agree on the SSD if he's trying to save every penny he can but still get a powerful system. Neglecting the load-time benefits of an SSD, 1TB of space and an i5 processor would be a lot more fun than 120GB of space and an i3 processor, for around the same price. He could always buy the 1TB HDD, and then add a 512GB or 1TB SSD when prices have dropped more. Swapping your entire HDD to an SSD would be a fun upgrade.
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Apr 17, 2014 16:31
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Caddrel posted:I'm getting ready to order the parts for my first custom PC, thanks to the great help in this thread. I have a few questions, mainly about the case. I'll post the parts list first then describe my use case. All of the above parts came in, and I built the computer yesterday. I want to thank everyone who answered my questions and contributed to the posts in this thread. I'm really happy with the quality of the parts. In particular, the case has lots of features that made everything easy to install and tidy-up for a first time PC builder. That was an awesome recommendation. The only problem I ran into was getting low level buzzing in my speakers whenever I was in a game or other graphics intensive thing. It happens whenever the audio out cable is plugged in to any of the motherboard jacks. I was pretty freaked out until I realized the HDMI from my graphics card also sent the audio to my monitor, so I just plugged the speakers into the monitor's audio out. Now the audio is perfect  I also mistakenly installed a lot of the motherboard's stupid looking audio and fastboot control stuff that I think is just ugly rebranding of OS features, but whatever.
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Apr 19, 2014 18:05
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So I'm very happy with my build from earlier in the thread, and now my friend has asked me to help him build a new PC too. His use case may be slightly different, so I want to run this by the thread and see if there are any suggestions. He has two 1080p monitors, and is most often gaming on one of them while web browsing or something non-intensive on the other. He often does art in Photoshop and Illustrator, usually on one monitor with a reference photo on the other. He's a bit more demanding than me in graphical performance, so I went with a GTX 770 instead of 760 because I think he'll want the performance gains on things like Arma 3 and Witcher 3 when that comes out. This is roughly what he's upgrading from: Processor: Intel Core i7 CPU 920@2.67GHZ HDD: Hitachi HDS721075KLA330 750GB Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 280 Monitors: Two 1080p monitors This is what I have, mostly based on the parts I am happy with: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($192.99 @ NCIX US) Motherboard: MSI B85M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($74.49 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($139.00 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($319.99 @ Amazon) Case: Corsair 350D MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($73.98 @ SuperBiiz) Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 62205ANHMWDTX1 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($33.99 @ Amazon) Other: DEMCiflex Corsair Obsidion 350D - top filter - $10 + $10 shipping (Purchased For $20.00) Total: $1044.41 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-06 18:45 EDT-0400) The main question I have is whether the MSI B85M-G43 motherboard or the ASRock B85M Pro4 would be better. With my MSI I get a lot of buzzing in the audio out while the graphics card is working, and I'm wondering if that has to do with quality of the motherboard audio. If anyone has experience with the AsRock I'd be interested in hearing about it.
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May 6, 2014 23:51
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The Lord Bude posted:Are you using relatively expensive speakers or headphones? A DAC would likely solve your problems (and improve audio quality), but it's a bit of a waste if you're using $20 headphones or something. Thanks, that's exactly what I was trying to figure out about the motherboards. My speakers aren't great quality yeah. For now I've solved the problem by routing the audio through HDMI to my monitor, which gives me no buzzing on its audio-out. That could mean that it has more to do with the cabling to the speakers than the motherboard itself.
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May 7, 2014 07:31
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Hace posted:Just a wait a day or two after release and see what the benchmarks say. You -should- be fine, but still. In this case would it be better to go with a 280X instead of a GTX 770 for maxing out 1080p gaming? I think even the 280X with 6 GB of VRAM is cheaper than the cheapest 770 with 2 GB
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May 27, 2014 21:40
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How does a Radeon 280X compare to a Geforce 770 for 1080p gaming, and possibly 1440 in a few years? The 770 seems more expensive across the board, but I haven't heard whether is preforms better.
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May 28, 2014 22:15
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Ignoarints posted:Directly comparable cards. The 280x seems to fall a tiny bit behind overall on paper. It's commonly said the 280x is better at 1440p, but that depends at what benchmarks you look at. Between the two I'd pick one based on whether or not you like AMD or nvidia if they were the same price honestly, or if there is a specific game or group of games one does better than the other. Some benchmarks show that it is almost always a little behind a 770, some show that its on par with or a tiny bit ahead in some games (1080p and 1440p) but then some are using reference, some are using aftermarket, then both of those are comparing numbers to cards that are or are not reference 770's... HalloKitty posted:280X has more VRAM for the same price, which turns out is something that is mattering sooner than we thought (see Watch_Dogs). Cool, thanks to both of you for the advice.
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May 29, 2014 04:00
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My friend was going to buy an Intel i5-4590 and MSI B85M-G43, but now the new motherboards are out and the choices are a little confusing. Is the CSM-H87M-G43 just as good, or does he have to go with the H97M? Both of those are more expensive than the old B85M, so if the B85M will work the same he'd like to go with that.
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Jun 19, 2014 22:23
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