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Man oh man, I'm going to attempt to keep a project thread  I have a bunch of random pictures but I think I'm going to start with the going-ons of this year. A little back story: I've been living with my girlfriend for about 5 years, renting a small house from my folks in the not so good part of town. By not so good part of town I mean random packs of wild dogs roaming the streets, the neighbors having an armed stand-off with the cops, being broken into once, and having car parts stolen from the back yard on more than one occasion. After another night of random gun shots and the ghetto-bird circling nearby again, we say gently caress it. We start looking for houses and really get serious when we ask my friend's mother, who is a badass person and realtor, to help us. We spend every weekend for almost 3 months looking at houses with and without her. 2 failed offers later, one on a tiny house on 5 acres of land (our bid was beat, we offered $12k over asking), the other on the north side of town with a small workshop in the back yard, we decide to focus on either the west or northwest side of the city, and low and behold a house in our budget pops up! We were the first to see it, and put in a bid on the second day. It was accepted, and a couple of months later it was ours! Here it is with the two Volvo finally home:  After moving a bunch of stuff over:  You can really see how the car needs a respray. It is a full color change, jambs, trunk, engine bay, all single stage that is over 10 years old. I'm hoping to have my friend respray it this summer. I soon found out how two car garages are much too small to work on a car and store the idiotic amount of parts I have. The green car has developed a bit of a rod knock. I pulled the motor out of a buddy's car with a broken ODO at 300k that he had owned for a few years, and who know how long it had been broken. Needless to say, a few pulls at 35psi from an ebay T3/T04E it never idled quite right. This is after I replaced all the motor mounts with stiffer "diesel" versions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOYxauzMoy4 It's hard to tell but the shifter moves about an inch at idle with all new mounts. Car still runs and drives, I've lowered the boost to 25psi and have begun sourcing a motor for it.
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Apr 21, 2014 01:20
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For years I've had a lovely 3 wheel HF engine stand. It's been rickety as hell and has fallen over once with a Z car motor (there will be datsun content eventually, promise). So I decide to scour craigslist for a better one. I've noticed a recent trend that tools are going for more on craigslist than new, so I buy the bigger stand from HF for $20 less than the cheapest on CL.  I get my friend to drop off a couple of motors I have:  The one on the left I bought from a Volvo junkyard before they closed. It's supposedly a low mile unit from a 94 NA Volvo, which it should be since it has a round tooth timing belt. The one on the right is the original one from my turbo red wagon. Volvo used pretty much the same engine since 76(?) and in an effort to increase mileage, came up with low friction models. The one in the wagon had some serious piston slap (and was horribly maintained), so I swapped in a 260k mile unit from an 86 turbo wagon that was in great shape (despite being a low friction small rod motor). Swapped it from auto to a Volvo 4 speed +OD at the same time. I'll be using the head from the turbo motor (woot sodium filled exhaust valves) on top of the late NA bottom end. I tore the block apart, crosshatching was still visible, and had a bunch of carbon deposits (yay lovely PCV system and overly aggressive auto kickdown).    Right now I'm waiting on gaskets to put it back together. I was hoping to do that this weekend but the drat parts supplier claimed everything was in stock but it really wasn't. Oh yea, late model blocks come with piston oil squirters:  Bonus street dog we adopted pic: 
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Apr 21, 2014 01:35
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e: pulled the trigger too soon and then noticed the answer in one of the OPs sorry 
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Apr 21, 2014 01:37
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I did a goon A/C job on the red wagon last year. It lasted a few months before the compressor spit out the front seal. An ebay rebuilder had a sale on compressors, accumulators, o-rings and oil, so for $140 I had the parts to get my A/C going. Charged it with R-134 and all was good, for a week... A line coming off the condenser sprung a leak. I take apart the front of the car to take a look at it, and see this messed up horror:  Both lines are epoxied onto the condenser. Hell the outlet one doesn't even have a nut anymore! Further chipping revealed a piece aluminum, copper, and the original line all epoxied together!  Of course it's a one year only line and condenser. I sourced a new condenser, which isn't here yet (see why I'm posting? I've got nothing to do!). I do a bunch of deferred maintenance to the wagon (my DD). I bought the car with a blown turbo. I put a slightly bigger Volvo/Mitsubishi turbo from the junkyard in it, and a few months later it started smoking as well. I got another low mile junkyard unit I pulled locally. I changed the injectors to bigger units to allow for more boost, one heat range colder plugs, new FPR, and a new O2 sensor (ECU I chipped the year before). This is what the old one looked like:  No wonder the ECU kept leaning out the mixture! Car had an issue with the new injectors. I haven't quite been able to figure it out. It pings on boost onset during the day when it's hot, and hot restarts result in low idle. No vacuum/boost leaks, so my friend that burned the chip and I are lost. This weekend I prepped two high flowing mitsubishi TDO4HL hot sides to hopefully weld a vband onto this week. The studs always break. They're stainless and gall up with the housing. Oh well, I was able to remove 8/10. This one is going on the wagon with a 3in exhaust at the same time:   And this one I'm hoping it eventually makes it into the 1995 Miata:   And that's pretty much where I'm at today. I'll try and post pics of previous projects and random car poo poo throughout. New bonus! My husky in the 74 Chevy LUV: 
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Apr 21, 2014 01:57
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You're a busy guy. I'm also jealous of the nice frontage on your house. I have a small-frontage house that I thought I could make up for the tiny two-car garage with by using an alley, but people constantly rocket through the alley and pelt anything I park back there with gravel. Can you post some more about the LUV?
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Apr 21, 2014 03:48
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I have two Volvos and a misc. dog its an awesome combo.
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Apr 21, 2014 12:37
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You're a busy guy. I'm also jealous of the nice frontage on your house. I have a small-frontage house that I thought I could make up for the tiny two-car garage with by using an alley, but people constantly rocket through the alley and pelt anything I park back there with gravel. I will get more pics of the LUV. I lost a bunch of pictures on a HD crash, it's basically all stock minus lowered 3 inches and a weber 32/36 out of a corolla on it. I don't have a title for it (I just found all the paperwork after the move, that should be fixed soon) so I usually just use it for junk/landfill runs with a temp tag for now. If I decide to keep it, it's getting another 2.1l turbo Volvo motor and the manual out of the green car. Someday... Right now the 4 speed + 4.38 rear gear combo means it's only good for around town. Big Daddy Keynes posted:I have two Volvos and a misc. dog its an awesome combo. Agreed!
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Apr 21, 2014 17:02
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mafoose posted:This is after I replaced all the motor mounts with stiffer "diesel" versions: I recently had both motor mounts/transmission mount replaced too! Now the whole car shakes at idle on hot days instead of just the engine! 
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Apr 21, 2014 17:08
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mafoose posted:I soon found out how two car garages are much too small to work on a car and store the idiotic amount of parts I have. Get used to that feeling. Garages are never big enough, no matter how big they are.
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Apr 21, 2014 17:11
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meatpimp posted:Get used to that feeling. Garages are never big enough, no matter how big they are. Well, being as this is my first garage, I'd like to experience this first hand! I drunkenly ordered a V90 spoiler for the wagon last week, it came in today but I should have done more research. Looks like the stock cars had holes for the clips in the hatch. I may or may not use it. I'd have to tape it on and the rear washer nozzle seems to foul it. This came in, (almost) strait from Australia   Hopefully the suspension refresh will start soon. Also why the hell has Google made it such a pain in the rear end to share pictures through Picasa?
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Apr 22, 2014 05:18
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meatpimp posted:Garages are never big enough, no matter how big they are. That should probably be my thread title since I'm already planning out a three car garage and I just finished the two car tandem. Shelving, especially hung shelving really does help a lot with space though.
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Apr 22, 2014 05:55
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Yep, just make sure it's a couple inches above head height, and take your friends into account. My best friend is 5'11" and built his shelf to accommodate his 32" TV. So it's exactly 5'11" off the floor. Guess who's 6'0" and cracks his god drat noggin on it all the time? My overhead shelf is 6'2" off the floor, just because of my experience at his place.  As for maximizing garage space, I've learned a few things. First, take advantage of the driver's door situation. Build shelves only on the right side of the garage and park a car as close to them as possible. Passengers get in/out after the car is in the driveway. Ideally the car on the right is the car that passengers/wife rides in the least. Second, park the cars as close to the garage door as possible. If you need in the trunk, open the garage door. Then fill the back of the garage with workbench and tools and whatnot. Leave enough room to walk between the car and workbench, not much more. Congrats on the house!
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Apr 22, 2014 19:49
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Mafoose, shouldn't you be at work right now? Why yes, but I'm an impulsive idiot.  PS been really busy at work and other crap this week, but I really like the hung shelving idea! I think that could really help out.
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Apr 24, 2014 22:43
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 Beautiful car. I still remember back in high school... the local BMW dealer had a brand new 635CSi on the floor for months... I had dad almost interested in it, but he was driving Mercedes at that point. First world high school problems in the '80s. Ditch the sunroof queer thingie.
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Apr 24, 2014 23:32
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meatpimp posted:
That thing is coming right off! Holdbrooks let me use his TIG as I need to wire the garage up for 220v (can't use my big compressor or TIG at the moment). It's been almost 1.5 years since I've TIG'd and man oh man I am out of practice! I warped the poo poo out of the flange. I ended up hand lapping it flat. Well, it's got a .5" section with about .010" dip. I'll fix it with a coarser stone when I'm bored.  I also hand lapped the flange on the oil return and replaced the gasket at the turbo and that seal on the oil return to the block on the daily. Oil leaks are fixed minus dizzy shaft seal (which I bought a low mile distributor to fix) and possibly a slow seep from the oil pan, which is good because it was destroying my driveway. I think I had ruined the drain pipe seal when I installed the new(er) turbo, and of course the local Volvo dealer didn't stock it, and only offered an aftermarket one. I ordered a Volvo one but it took almost 2 weeks to get here...  Any good ideas to get oil off concrete? I heard a soda blaster works good but I think I lent mine to someone and it seems to have grown legs...
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Apr 25, 2014 05:39
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mafoose posted:
Try using a pressure washer and some cleaning chemicals either directly applied or applied via the pressure washer. While it may not get rid of the entire stain, it will help get rid of it in my experience. Just be careful using a strong pressure washer on a chipping or cracked driveway.
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Apr 25, 2014 06:50
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mafoose posted:Any good ideas to get oil off concrete? I heard a soda blaster works good but I think I lent mine to someone and it seems to have grown legs...
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Apr 26, 2014 23:36
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I've had good luck with valspar oil stain remover. Find it in the exterior paint section.
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Apr 26, 2014 23:53
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I've had great results with Oil Eater. Cool cars.
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Apr 27, 2014 01:26
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I use a product called Oil Lift which may or may not be available in the US. http://www.oillift.net/ It's fun to pour the concentrated form of it directly on oil stains. It starts kicking up bubbles.
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Apr 27, 2014 06:30
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Thanks for the info on the chemicals! I managed to track down my soda blaster, if it doesn't work, I'll give them a shot. So just about the time I picked up the BMW, my heat pump quit working at my house. After checking out how long of a wait and how much money a tech call would be, I turned to the internet to show me what to check! At first I thought it was this:  A burnt compressor wire from the contactor. Apparently that's fairly common. Cut it off and recrimped a connector, but no dice. Back to the internet. I find out how to do a running amp check of the start cap since I don't have a fancy multimeter that can check caps. Luckily this happened on a cloudy day, which made it quiet bearable to be up on the roof.  The test pretty much confirmed that the start cap was bad. The local electronic's store had one for $17! The internet controllable thermostat really paid off just in the troubleshooting, as I was able to start and stop the unit from the roof. So back to cars! The BMW needed a valve adjustment, as it had a bench one done before the head was installed, and the head was pretty noisey. Supposedly it is about a 1-2hr job, but it took me a little over 3 as I was being very cautious and systematic having never done one on these cars. Also, all the  turbo stuff gets in the way. This is the heart of the beast. Refreshed m106 bottom end, rebuilt turbo head, ceramic coated piping, exhaust manifold, turbo exhaust housing, and external wastegate. Here is everything taken apart to do the valve adjustment:  Still looks new!  At the end of the rockers is a little eccentric bushing. You undo the lock screw, stick something in the little hole and spin the bushing to adjust the clearance. Book spec recommends the rocker to valve clearance, but after looking on the different BMW forums, people recommend setting the clearance from rocker to cam. Used a whiteboard to keep track of all the valves done:  I was being overly cautious, I could have done 2 valves at a time, but decided to do all the intake, then exhaust valves. It took much longer this way but I was able to double check the clearances as I spun the motor around. By the way, that really sucks to do on these cars. There is almost no clearance between the rad and the accessories. I ended up removing the spark plugs and using a hand tensioned alternator to spin the motor over. Once I got that taken care of, the motor was so much quieter and the idle is much improved. Just waiting on my wideband harness to get here so I can mess with the AFM a little. Speaking off, I sold my old SR20DET's turbo clutch setup, and used that money to buy a Zeitronix ZT-2. I found an almost new 750il brake setup in the junk yard for the 6er. The rotors are like 11.8in front and 11.5in rear.   The pads were almost new! I later found out that the rear rotors won't work without swapping out to the 750il's rear spindle. So I ended up returning the rear rotors. I'll just have to buy e34 540i rear rotors that will work with these calipers. All the rotors don't even have any ridges or lips on them! Oh, I have a picture of the wideband routed to the center console. It came with a kavlico 50psia sensor, so it doubles as my boost gauge as well.  Once that was installed, it turns out my boost control valve is bad:  Yes, these cars had ECU controlled boost pressure in the early 80s! I'm getting only wastegate pressure, which is a paltry 2-3psi. I added a boost controller temporarily and turned it up to the stock 6psi. It is a completely different car. It was down about 40hp from stock. Can't wait to install MS and mod the stock external gate to make it much more boost friendly. Hoping to run about 15psi or so from the stock turbo, which should be at least 300hp and 350ft-lbs. After the lime green car is back together and MS is installed, I'm adapting my 60-1 ball bearing garrett with a stage 5 exhaust wheel and tial wastegate. Hoping for 400hp or so.
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May 7, 2014 20:26
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Wow, very cool, I honestly had no idea the old 6 was turbo'd from the factory! That thing must be a riot. I used to have an old '78 733i, but the electrical gremlins proved far too numerous (honking the horn opened the sunroof, windshield wipers activated the brake lights, power seats honked the horn etc) so it went to the junkyard  . Hit about 120 on the way there with 4 year old gas, smooth as hell.
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May 8, 2014 16:07
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Nope, not stock, it actually came in a grey model e23 745i (same style car you had). Can't wait to rewire it, the stock ECU leaves a lot to be desired, and the chips for it are insanely expensive. That's why I'm doing megasquirt. The odd thing is someone keeps taking the motronic 1.3 crank trigger setups at the yard before I can get to them... I might try and MS it with the stock twin trigger flywheels, but I hate VR sensors with MS. So it looks like I'll finally have A/C for more than a couple months in the daily! I tore the front end apart to pull the bad condenser:  The condenser and hardlines are 1 year only parts from Volvo... Luckily the smaller non-turbo condenser is still produced, so I bought that new, but there was no way I was paying >$100 for less than 20in of hard line. This is the line and you can see that piece of brass that was shoved in the end and epoxied to the condenser:  I forgot to take a picture of it, but I had a soft line maid for $40 locally with a high pressure port so I can actually hook up both the gauges!  I went through a Volvo parts place because they carried the Nissens condenser, and Nissens is a OE manufacturer for these old Volvos. Well, I can tell you it wasn't worth it... What's that I spy behind the tag?  Oh great...  The build quality is meh compared to the original, and the tube diameter is a lot less... Oh well, it was cheap and as far as I know, the only place that still makes them, unless I want to go through Volvo and pay $460. Got the car all back together, and to hook up my gauges I had to remove the coil from the strut tower.  I went to crank the car over after I had vacuumed out the system for a couple of hours and it turned over real slow, and didn't start. I go take a peak in the engine compartment and am greeted with the blue smoke that reside in the electrical system! When the car cranked over, the coil fell into the void between the strut tower and firewall and managed to ground itself out. This is what's left of the coil +12v wire:  I'm glad the car didn't catch fire... That wire is on a 15amp fuse (which didn't blow), and it's only about 20ga wire. It is burnt from the passenger side of the engine compartment all along the firewall to the driver's side, melted part of the 8 pin connector, past the connector, and into the interior where it goes to the ignition switch then the fuse box.  For now, I shoved a wire on the keyed hot injector resistor pack and connected it to the coil. The car started right up, I charged it by weight, and have working A/C again! I've been looking for a junkyard car to snag the crispy wire out of, it looks like in the LH2.4 cars, it only goes to the coil, ignition switch, and fusebox, so it shouldn't be too bad to replace. I'll add it to the list 
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May 8, 2014 18:59
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Been there with a shorted wire burning up like that, poo poo gets scary fast.
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May 8, 2014 19:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:Been there with a shorted wire burning up like that, poo poo gets scary fast. Could be worse, i remember in one of 13 INCH DICK's earlier threads the ABS module on a customer's car shorted itself by grounding through the rear brake line, which was glowing red hot when they pulled it in.
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May 8, 2014 19:31
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Keeping this out of the archives. I've got some pictures and updates to post, but I haven't had time due to family and work. Sneak peak: 
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Jun 19, 2014 00:55
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drat, I didn't even realize you had a thread going! This is awesome stuff.  As far as the tube diameter on the aftermarket unit: Doesn't stress from pressure increase considerably as diameter of the pipe increases? My speculation is that they specifically engineered it smaller to reduce the chance of stress affecting the materials they're using. But I can't math so
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Jun 19, 2014 02:52
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Thanks! I'm sure that's partially true, but a condenser needs to provide good flow AND be able to cool the hot high pressure refrigerant. I'm pretty sure it is undersized because even with the new compressor and good running pressures, the performance is meh around town if it's over 100°F. I need to stop wishy washing about the wagon. There's a couple of v90s that popped up around $2k that I've been thinking about picking up, or saying f it and slamming the wagon, adding tint, buffing the paint, and putting my staggered Rials on it. In the end it's still a skinny rod m46 smokey POS daily wagon haha. I've heard v90s are super posh inside with great AC, but I'm afraid of white blocks and can't leave anything stock... (People are making white block T-5 adapters)
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Jun 19, 2014 06:50
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Whiteblocks are actually pretty nice motors, I have an 850 and a 740 and the 850 is so much nicer its not even funny.
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Jun 26, 2014 06:59
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So I passed on an S90, because I really want a wagon, but man are those interiors nice and the I6 is smooth. I did this on my e24 this weekend:  AEM 320lph e85/meth compatible intank pump since my low pressure intank was dead and causing vapor lock issues. Deleted the external pump and changed the fuel filter too. I wish someone would have warned me that the pickup and return tubes in the pump assembly are soldered, not braised. So that was fun resoldering them into place after soldering the barbed fittings (hence the quick steel on top in case my solder wasn't perfect, which it wasn't). Luckily my friend with his e28 was in town so I was able to see which way they pointed. Car runs great and pump is incredibly silent. It's rated at 1000hp on gas and almost 600hp on e85. Probably not going to run e85 but replaced the hoses with multifuel injection hose in case I change my mind. Next step is megasquirt and my electronic boost controller! Too bad I sold a megasquirt with my old Maxima wagon, oh well it went to a friend so I hope he does something with it since I never did. I might just run a single coil now so I can swap boxes between the BMW and lime green Volvo.
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Aug 5, 2014 01:39
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If you think the S90 was nice, (which it was) try driving a P2 V70 or S60. They cost a lot more to maintain but daaaaaaamn if Volvo didn't outdo themselves on the comfort and ergonomics. I'd still have my 960 (S90) if it was a wagon.
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Aug 5, 2014 06:56
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Comfort-wise I agree with you Lloyd, but I've got to say IMHO the P2 interiors are a lot shittier than the S/V90 or the S/V70. Lots of creaking from cheap plastics that feels like it's paper thin.
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Aug 5, 2014 10:37
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On the other hand in the 90 series you had a dash designed in the 80's and door panels that delaminated on the dealer lot...
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Aug 5, 2014 17:55
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e: misunderstood, carry on, nice thread!
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Aug 6, 2014 08:17
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Ok, either this is going to be a huge post, or I'm going to give up halfway through. It's a lot of time to cover! So, I have a lot of projects. I blame my lack of self control and having a place to put them. Some of them are at my parent's rental (which I used to rent, and now my youngest sister does). One such project is my 73? 74? Chevy LUV.  I bought it for stupid cheap ($220 including a tow to my house). I traded work for a weber 32/36. and modified a carb adapter plate. It runs and drives, almost comically bad. I would say it gives a few of the Roadkill projects a run for it's money. BUT, it's the only truck I own, so it gets used as such.   The brakes are terrifying, the suspension is pretty much non-existant, the lights work whenever they want, and the engine is anemic at best, but it moves under it's own power! My dad is pressuring me to get rid of it, and put that money towards another one of the many projects. For the most part, my wagon can take over truck duties. Speaking of trucks, my friend's 300 L6 bricknose F-150 decided it didn't want a compressor anymore, and spewed black death. I wish I had a picture of the orifice tube, it was comically bad. I showed him R152a conversions (thanks Motronic!), and he said why the hell not. So we did!  We flushed the whole system, replaced all the o-rings, compressor, drier, orifice tube, etc. Charged it by weight, and bam! 40deg vent temps in 105deg weather! He says in Phoenix, he had to turn the A/C down on the freeway! Hell yea! Makes me sad that I put R134a in the wagon. Saw this downtown, but I was much to inebriated so this is the only pic I got. I'm thinking some sort of Cadillac?  A few weeks later, this POS needed some work. My friend was driving it up to Western Meet in norcal, and the car had terribly dim headlights, non-working window regulators, and dead tail light circuits. It also needed to be retuned for 91 octane since it usually runs on E85.  Another friend likes to pocket Volvo relays in the junkyard, and that's when I learned that they have a diode, and will smoke and almost light on fire if you wire the coil wrong:  This is how we do work in AZ summers if we don't have an air conditioned shop:  Wiring almost done:  Oooh me likey!   BAM!  All new relays driven off the battery, headlights are super bright, and we wired the driving lights to a switch that only works with low beams. Another side project! A friend needed to store a vinyl cutter since he closed his shop, it's an older Chinese unit, that LITERALLY has fallen off the back of a truck (has road rash and the stand had to be rewelded). I had to install WinXP 32-bit to run it. Never thought I would see this again:  All done and working!  I made an ikea desk out of a countertop section and some of the long caster legs. Supposedly they stopped selling the countertop in sections at the store, and that makes me really sad... I finally found a chippable EZK at the junkyard (the ignition computer for the Volvo wagon), so I picked it up and installed a chip I've had for a while:  This mostly cured my boost onset ping. I need to talk to my friend that makes these, I think his accel enrichments are too soft, due to the fact that he runs an automatic. Since I have the instant torque delivery of a manual, I think the engine loads up to fast and ends up with some knocks. If I roll into the throttle, no knocking. During all this, my dad moved into town! He was in New Mexico for a couple years, and now got a job at a college about 1hr from Tucson, which means I get to play with these two Zs much more often now!   The blue one has a nice turbo setup which I did years ago. The car needs a lot of small bits done, but my dad doesn't want to put money into it because it is rusty. The red one is a 72 and also quite rusty, but being a 240z, it's worth much more. So we're going to be tearing it apart, fixing the rust, and getting it painted. We can't decide whether to do a 2.8l swap with triples (which I have sitting around), or a turbo L28ET swap like the 280z (which I also have collecting dust). Soon there after, the Miata ate a cam seal. I don't have any pics because it was a mad scramble to get it going ASAP.  Did all new belts, timing belt, all the seals, water pump, thermostat, etc etc. First time on a Miata, and honestly completely doable. I did all new rotors, pads, hardware, struts, and some other odds and ends at the same time. I ended up selling my first wagon, and what made me fall in love with them. A 1984 Maxima. The interior is roached, the paint is gone, but it has working A/C and I megasquirted it a few years back. It went to a semi-local Japanese and Volvo car guy, so I'm sure it's in good hands. Last minute checks for a 2hr drive away:  Ready to go!  Got the beater wagon tinted! How did I live in AZ so long without it?!  And I saw this moving dumpster at harbor freight:  Not even 2 weeks after I get the wagon tinted, some shithead kids shoot out the rear window with a pellet gun.  They did eventually catch the idiots who did it, but I doubt I'll be getting anything from it. Safelite was the cheapest quote, at $190, I bought this car for $700, I'm not putting that kind of money into it! A tailgate at the junkyard was $80. Much better!  This is how you remove a tailgate by yourself! The mop hand is inside the lower handle of my jack.  And done!  The wagon was then officially put into beater status (more so than before), so I made a sticker to commemorate:  My sis also got married some time around then, and forgot to pick up a keg! So I bought about $200 worth of beer, plus a bunch of water, and drove it down almost 3hrs to Hereford. Did I mention I love wagons?  And I'm tired, so I'll continue this another day.
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Oct 16, 2014 09:57
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 That's just over 1500lbs of decommissioned Sun hardware. Never, ever, doubt the load carrying capacity of a Volvo wagon... That 245 moved me across the country twice, and if it had A/C, I'd probably still be driving it today. 
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Oct 16, 2014 11:50
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First gen Maxima wagons are sweet, nobody has any clue what the drivetrain layout is!
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Oct 16, 2014 19:14
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DJ Commie posted:First gen Maxima wagons are sweet, nobody has any clue what the drivetrain layout is! There's first gen Maxima wagons?!  Just wanted to say I would drive the poo poo out of most of the cars you own. That LUV is particularly excellent.
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Oct 17, 2014 00:18
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Well they aren't super common in the states. They didn't hold their value or were as popular as the Zs, so interior and exterior parts are hard to come by, and in true Japanese fashion, it all crumbles after this much sun exposure. I'm sad I never got to do a turbo swap on it, but it ran like a top and was incredibly smooth for 150k miles. I'd sell the LUV to a goon cheap!
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Oct 17, 2014 02:34
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mafoose posted:I'd sell the LUV to a goon cheap! .. go on.
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Oct 17, 2014 02:53
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