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You're making good time on the swap. When I lived in Europe, I had a buddy doing the same swap. It sat in a shop waiting for wiring for over a year, and then came out looking like rear end. Your wiring looks way better already.
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Jul 17, 2014 04:20
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 18:59 |
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I'm glad I went for a newer car rather than the older ODB1 setups. I work on instrumentation for a living so it wasn't to difficult to figure out what needed to be there and what didn't. Today I worked on the intake flip. I removed the hardlines and installed hoses to clear the coolant header.  Started hooking the engine harness back up to see what will need to be extended to work.  Last hurdle is going to be the alternator. The fuel pressure regulator and the oil dipstick are in the way. I am going to swap the fuel rails side to side and that should give me enough clearance. 
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Jul 20, 2014 02:36
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More progress on the intake flip and radiator mounts. Started the day off with some CAD aka Carboard aided design.    Borrowed a fun little toy from a friend of mine.  Patially finished product. I will need to add some stiffeners.  As for the intake flip I swapped the fuel rails side to side and now the alternator fits. 
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Jul 20, 2014 23:19
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Are you putting a vent in the side of the bus behind that radiator? Because it'd be kind of hilarious to have actual functional scoops on the side.
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Jul 21, 2014 00:56
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You can see them near the roof in the back corner. That is how the factory engine gets cooling air.
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Jul 21, 2014 01:12
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I have the week off so progress should go more quickly. Spent Monday extending wires for the intake flip. Everything is soldered then sealed with liquid electrical tape and heatshrink then covered in split loom and taped. I'm really hoping that the ECU to motor connections dont need to be extended as it is very time consuming.  More fiddling with the radiator mounts.  Rad installed. 
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Jul 30, 2014 03:20
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Only thing left on the engine is the Alternator tensioner which will consist of a bolt that presses on the side of the alternator. Fuel pump and filters are mounted. ECU wires are installed.   Here is a shot with both rads installed.  I have started on the interior wiring. There will be a small fuse block with four fuses for the engine. All power connections will be made at the starter so I can disconnect the batteries with a switch and disconnect.  
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Aug 2, 2014 23:58
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How will you be drawing air through those rads? Ate there fans, if so, where?
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Aug 3, 2014 15:58
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Fans are going to be mounted directly on the rads. I am just waiting to hang the engine before I put them in. Got the alternator tensioner built with a bit more cardboard aided design.   
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Aug 3, 2014 23:15
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helno posted:Borrowed a fun little toy from a friend of mine. Cobra/HENROB torches are the loving poo poo.
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Aug 3, 2014 23:48
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It worked pretty good for cutting the thin sheets. I still ended up doing alot of work with the angle grinder. Minor update for today.    Motor is in and mounted. Alternator and Intake are installed as well but I forgot to take a picture. Remaining items. -Battery cables -Radiator fans -remaining fuel hoses -coolant lines
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Aug 4, 2014 23:12
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Well I dropped the engine to install the rad fans yesterday. They fit well and draw a lot of air. When the are on the can hold a piece of paper on a very small part of the air intake ports. Big fan on the left side  Two small fans on the right  So all that is left is the breather hoses and the throttle linkage. I figured I should fill the rads up and run the engine.  When I filled the coolant I was mixing the next jug and I started to hear dripping. The coolant was coming from on top of the engine. Part of the intake swap had be reroute the throttle body coolant lines and it looks like one of the welds on the heater return line failed right were that small line connects. So the engine in back out and I will plug the small line and replace the hardline with flexible hose and will be back in action.
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Sep 1, 2014 03:23
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helno posted:When I filled the coolant I was mixing the next jug and I started to hear dripping. Congrats on meeting your goal! 
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Sep 1, 2014 10:11
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If you want to keep the vw aircooled sound just loosen up one side on the exhaust or use an old leaky gasket on it. No one outside will notice the difference!
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Sep 1, 2014 18:10
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Slim Pickens posted:If you want to keep the vw aircooled sound just loosen up one side on the exhaust or use an old leaky gasket on it. No one outside will notice the difference! Sure they will; it'll be running! 
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Sep 1, 2014 18:38
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The exhaust is going to be interesting. Plan is to run the stock exhaust headers forward and just strap on a big cheap muffler and dump out the side for now. Maybe ill get something fancy made up but that will be later. It is Labour day today so the stores are all closed. So I cant get the heater hose to fix the leak and I cant get new fuel filters for my plane so all my stuff is on hold today.
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Sep 1, 2014 18:47
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUl-VLgUotk Now with less coolant leaks.
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Sep 3, 2014 02:14
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Urabus indeed. Excellent work!
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Sep 3, 2014 04:17
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I was a little concerned during the first run that the thermostat wasnt opening. I drained the coolant and tested it and it worked perfectly. Turns out just idling the engine it takes about 10 minutes to get up above 80 C where it starts to open. With the bus sitting there you can feel hot air coming up the cooling air ducts and the fans take only a few seconds to drop the coolant temperature once they activate at 95 C. My wife is insisting I install the exhaust before I take a test drive and in the interests of not pissing off my neighbors I think I will.
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Sep 5, 2014 04:01
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"The exhaust" better consist of cherry bombs bolted directly to the headers. 
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Sep 5, 2014 05:35
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I moved the bus out of the garage today. Right now the exhaust consists of the headers and cats from the Subaru and it is surprisingly quiet. First run started out well and then it started behaving badly and didn't want to rev above idle. Turns out that 10 litres don't fill the tank very well. Added another 20 L and it drives quite well. I drove it with the rear hatch open and it certainly heats the cabin in a hurry when the fans come on. Once everything was closed up it seems to cool as expected. Once you get around 40 km/hr the coolant temperature drops with the fans off. There are two shops that can do custom exhaust in the area so I will put the insurance back on and get some estimates next week.
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Sep 13, 2014 23:37
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Brilliant news, any chance of a video?
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Sep 14, 2014 20:38
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I'll have the insurance on it tomorrow. I can probably get some video with the hilariously low ground clearance. With just the headers and cats it sounds just like the vw until the fans kick on. Only two ODB codes. One for a missing solenoid and one for my knock sensor so I will have to figure out why it is not working.
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Sep 14, 2014 23:42
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Well I have put a few miles on the new engine. It is still very loud. I drove it to the next town over and am going to get a custom exhaust made up next week. So far there are no coolant leaks other than the odd drip while it warms up. My alternator belt was slipping a bit so I added a bit more travel to my mount and got it tighter. Added this mount to keep the filler from resting on the throttle body.  Cleaned out the garage. So many cardboard boxes. 
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Sep 21, 2014 18:45
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Got the car back from the shop. They did a pretty nice job on the exhaust. Nice and quiet.     Still have to address a couple trouble codes. The knock sensor is dead.
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Sep 26, 2014 22:38
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helno posted:Got the car back from the shop. Probably not a huge concern, but wouldn't you want the entire circumference of the exhaust ports going into individual pipes and then mating up? Currently looks like you've got a Venn-diagram like overlap happening with the single pipe flange mating up to dual exits on the block side. As long as it seals now I guess it won't be too bad, and the new engine is already a nice bump in power from what originally came in there so any loss in power isn't a huge issue I guess. Figured since the exhaust was being fabbed up anyway, it shouldn't be too much more work to have it done with a short 4-2-1 header design.
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Sep 27, 2014 00:10
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It is a single port engine. Only one big hole in each side. Here is what the old y pipe looked like. http://gallery.legacycentral.org/d/17545-2/DSCF4157.JPG
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Sep 27, 2014 05:07
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helno posted:Got the car back from the shop. 
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Sep 28, 2014 02:26
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Parts Kit posted:Is the oil pan supposed to be only a couple inches off the ground? "a couple" seems generous.
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Sep 28, 2014 02:28
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That picture makes it look worse than in it actually is. With the stock Subaru oil pan you lose about 3" over the type 4 engine. Next add on is a shortened oil pan. I can only afford so many expensive parts all at once so this will have to wait till next spring. http://www.rockymountainwesty.com/Subaru_Vanagon_Steel_Oil_Pan_p/rmw-o4.htm
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Sep 28, 2014 05:01
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There are a million shortened pan options from non-vw-specific places that don't cost what a used car does.
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Sep 28, 2014 11:34
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Geirskogul posted:There are a million shortened pan options from non-vw-specific places that don't cost what a used car does. For example, these guys sell a laser-cut, strengthened pan bottom for $50 if you're willing to cut & weld the old pan yourself: http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/oil_pan.htm
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Sep 28, 2014 18:34
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I haven't looked around much yet. I actually measured the pan today and it is far better Than my 03 jetta. 
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Sep 28, 2014 20:13
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All I can think of when I see that oil pan is 
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Sep 28, 2014 22:24
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Someone earlier asked for a video of it driving so I got one tonight. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ungX9xRxJEQ
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Oct 1, 2014 00:40
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Man that engine note is distinctly Subaru isn't it? Looks and sounds great. You need to fix your reverse lights 
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Oct 1, 2014 04:50
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Yeah the power supply to them is unplugged. From the factory they piggyback off of the fuel pump. I have a few other wires to run yet so I'll get to them at some point.
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Oct 1, 2014 13:07
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I have to give my compact* (*by today's standards) car a lot more throttle to back into a flat parking spot - we won't even mention what I have to do to it to get it backed up on anything resembling a driveway. How much does it weigh? 
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Oct 1, 2014 13:55
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some texas redneck posted:How much does it weigh? Book value is 3300 lbs with a gvwr of 5000 lbs. Roughly the same as a Ford Ranger.
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Oct 2, 2014 02:43
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 18:59 |
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Just wanted to say that I am really impressed with this project. Please keep updating
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Oct 3, 2014 10:01
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