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Without knowing your situation it sounds not like you went over budget and more that your budget was unrealistically low. You won't regret the extra to get exactly what you want, you will remember you hate it every time you get in it or hitch it up.
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Jul 28, 2017 13:44
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cakesmith handyman posted:Without knowing your situation it sounds not like you went over budget and more that your budget was unrealistically low. You won't regret the extra to get exactly what you want, you will remember you hate it every time you get in it or hitch it up. It was a rough budget to begin with. We originally were thinking of a refurbished motorhome. We saw them and they were around 30k. That got me thinking that we'd end up towing my wrangler behind so that we could leave the camper at the destination and tool about in the jeep. THAT got me thinking why not just get a full size truck and a travel trailer and use that 30k as a budget? Long story short the F150 was priced a bit below NADA and was in such good shape and low miles that it was a smart buy for longevity. But yeah what I wrote about above concerning threshold of decent vehicles/trailers shows the budget was a little low for the truck/trailer combo. I agree that I will hate settling for something that we will regret owning if we do not pay more up front. On another subject: What are the thoughts on a weight distribution hitch? One I saw being recommended starts over $500.
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Jul 28, 2017 15:43
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Fog Tripper posted:On another subject: What are the thoughts on a weight distribution hitch? One I saw being recommended starts over $500. As opposed to pulling a big rear end travel trailer with just the ball hitch? Don't skimp on that. I don't know anyone who pulls a TT without one of those. With an F150 I probably wouldn't consider it until you get down to something small enough to be single axle, like those micro/pod trailers.
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Jul 28, 2017 16:55
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Fryhtaning posted:As opposed to pulling a big rear end travel trailer with just the ball hitch? Don't skimp on that. I don't know anyone who pulls a TT without one of those. With an F150 I probably wouldn't consider it until you get down to something small enough to be single axle, like those micro/pod trailers. OK, I found this one on Amazon that has decent reviews. NADA shows the "hitch weight" as 585lbs. I am thinking that once loaded (we do not forsee adding more than 1000lb more on when loading the trailer) we should be good with the 750lb rated WDH. Does that sound like a sound plan? The other one I saw with good reviews has a 600, 800 and 1000lb rated for pretty much the same cost. My brain is starting to turn to moosh with all the numbers and formulae.
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Jul 28, 2017 18:28
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Fog Tripper posted:OK, I found this one on Amazon that has decent reviews. NADA shows the "hitch weight" as 585lbs. I am thinking that once loaded (we do not forsee adding more than 1000lb more on when loading the trailer) we should be good with the 750lb rated WDH. Does that sound like a sound plan? The other one I saw with good reviews has a 600, 800 and 1000lb rated for pretty much the same cost. Looks almost exactly like my Eaz-Lift, so probably should do the job as long as you have the right size hitch receiver. That plate for the sway bar is a real bitch to install (had to do that part myself), so make sure you have an AC-powered drill and bits made for metal. You'll also need an impact socket wrench to fasten the shank to the hitch.. or at least that's what the guy that put mine together used. If you pick up the camper from a place that has a service shop they'd probably measure your hitch drop and attach the hitch to the shank for free.
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Jul 28, 2017 20:44
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Don't buy a hitch till you get a trailer. Sellers often throw in the hit h for free. I use a Reese 15000lb hitch and it's great. They seem to go for 200 or less on Craigslist. I tow 15,000lbs often with mine. Makes a big difference in ride quality and over bumps.
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Jul 28, 2017 23:17
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Also, the Reese hitch brackets just loop over the trailer frame with a thread "set screw" to keep them secure. All you need is a 10mm open end wrench. No drilling required. Took me 2 minutes to set up a rental flat deck with the hitch.
jonathan fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Jul 29, 2017 |
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Jul 29, 2017 00:56
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jonathan posted:Also, the Reese hitch brackets just loop over the trailer frame with a thread "set screw" to keep them secure. All you need is a 10mm open end wrench. No drilling required. Took me 2 minutes to set up a rental flat deck with the hitch. Do you not use the sway bar? That plate that you're supposed to bolt onto the trailer tongue is for the sway bar, which usually comes in the kit. The brackets for mine also have the set screw like you said. The sway bar is good if you're pulling something big and light since it's basically a giant parachute whenever a semi truck passes you. I don't bother with the sway bar when I get the camper in and out of storage since it's just down a 40mph road, but I never go without it on the interstate.
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Jul 29, 2017 01:13
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Fryhtaning posted:Looks almost exactly like my Eaz-Lift, so probably should do the job as long as you have the right size hitch receiver. That plate for the sway bar is a real bitch to install (had to do that part myself), so make sure you have an AC-powered drill and bits made for metal. You'll also need an impact socket wrench to fasten the shank to the hitch.. or at least that's what the guy that put mine together used. If you pick up the camper from a place that has a service shop they'd probably measure your hitch drop and attach the hitch to the shank for free. The second link is the eaz-lift one. Gonna definitely wait till I actually purchase the tt, as it appears the tounge weight voodoo numbers will have to be known so I can get the best match for it.
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Jul 29, 2017 04:37
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Fryhtaning posted:Do you not use the sway bar? That plate that you're supposed to bolt onto the trailer tongue is for the sway bar, which usually comes in the kit. The brackets for mine also have the set screw like you said. The sway bar is good if you're pulling something big and light since it's basically a giant parachute whenever a semi truck passes you. I don't bother with the sway bar when I get the camper in and out of storage since it's just down a 40mph road, but I never go without it on the interstate. Heh, my hitch came free with the travel trailer. I didn't know there was a anti-sway mechanism. However the pivot point for the weight distribution bars is different that the ball hitch which will introduce some anti-sway as it is. As for issues with sway, never had an issue, but my truck is easily 8500lbs with passenger, fuel and equipment in the box. Also it's a crew long box so it has a decent wheelbase. Perhaps a shorter wheelbase or lighter truck might have an issue. Then again my daily driver work truck weighs 140,000lbs hauling fluid which never stops moving so maybe I just don't notice.
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Jul 29, 2017 16:53
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So the wife stubbornly put her foot down and is sticking to her budget. Despite the fact that we both absolutely loved the TT, had everything we wanted and nothing we didn't. It was $4500 over budget.  I am done doing research for these things as this experience wiped out any enthusiasm I might have had. Besides, it was her idea to do this for our 50th birthdays year. Sound bitter? 
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Aug 1, 2017 13:53
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Just save a bit more and do it for your 51st. And in the meantime rent a trailer a couple weekends this year.
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Aug 2, 2017 00:59
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jonathan posted:Then again my daily driver work truck weighs 140,000lbs hauling fluid which never stops moving so maybe I just don't notice. Driving a regular pickup truck down the interstate must feel like throwing a hotdog down a hallway by now.
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Aug 2, 2017 02:51
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I'm actually more comfortable in the big truck. Even when maxed out on weight it's just more stable and predictable. Rolling dips and crests, uneven pavement and potholes and stuff just has less effect on the 28 tire vehicle. Trailer ABS is nice also. I towed 15k pounds through a snow storm with black ice conditions for about 500 miles in January with temps around -30. That's a normal day in the work truck that I wouldn't even think about. In the pickup, I had to really concentrait and avoid braking .
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Aug 2, 2017 04:50
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Yeah, in a truck, on ice, leave the diffs unlocked and breaking traction just spins 2 of 8 tires(or 12 in jonathan's case) and nothing happens. Let off the throttle, let it get back to road speed, and gently get back on the throttle. In a pickup, you break traction, the limited slip grabs and spins both tires up and the back end slides. This is why new pickups usually only come with an open diff or an e-locker. Pick-ups can snap out of line. trucks kind of gently creep out of line. they only snap if you over-react. Everything happens far far slower.
Powershift fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Aug 2, 2017 |
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Aug 2, 2017 14:10
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Fog Tripper posted:So the wife stubbornly put her foot down and is sticking to her budget. Despite the fact that we both absolutely loved the TT, had everything we wanted and nothing we didn't. It was $4500 over budget. Just pay for it and tell her you bargained a few grand off.
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Aug 2, 2017 15:26
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Maybe silly question: Have propane fridges gotten more efficient in the past 30 years like electric fridges?
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Aug 25, 2017 07:20
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Ohrmazd posted:Maybe silly question: Have propane fridges gotten more efficient in the past 30 years like electric fridges? This article is biased but mostly accurate. http://www.sunfrost.com/blog/off-grid-refrigeration-solar-electric-vs-propane/ They claim a propane fridge uses 9000 watt hours (of propane energy) a day, by my math closer to 5000-7000, but still. A 12v or 24v RV compressor based fridge would be an order of magnitude more efficient, one or two of those cheap 100w solar panels and a decent MPPT + battery would probably run it forever. Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 08:40
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Zero VGS posted:This article is biased but mostly accurate. It's for a cabin in the woods, so can't use those, just thought I'd ask here as the little fridge we use is obviously also made for an RV.
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Aug 26, 2017 04:25
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Inspection question: can I take my TT to any old Virginia inspection station to get the yearly done, or do I have to haul it all the way to an RV dealer?
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Sep 13, 2017 19:18
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I used to get my boat trailer inspected at the same small shop (in RVA) that did my car and truck. Just call ahead.
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Sep 13, 2017 20:03
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Update on my teardrop: Welded the whole frame from 1" and .5" square stock, got it bolted down to the harbor freight trailer, mounted some tiedown anchors so I can fit my street-legal jetski inside, and I'm ready to skin it with whatever I can get my hands on for free. I'm gonna skin it for reals later, but it's for Wasteland Weekend in a few weeks, so I'm doing it post apocalyptic style out of whatever scrap I can find, so it'll be the homeliest little shack ever for now--I'm anticipating maybe just skinning it with cardboard on site for maximum thrown-together hobo shack style. Already got a slightly cut-down futon mattress that fits perfectly inside, and so far it's still light enough to deadlift, which should suit my Prius towing vehicle just fine. 
Chopsy fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Sep 14, 2017 |
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Sep 14, 2017 19:47
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I found this vid sort of interesting, some Americans RV people went to a European RV show and talk about the differences they've found vs North American units. https://youtu.be/hwdGPGk2Ziw
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Sep 17, 2017 16:38
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Any Aussies in here? I'm considering buying a 38 foot Bedford bus or Hino Rainbow to live in while i go nearly Grey Nomad for a bit.
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Oct 8, 2017 07:46
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Aussie here. Check my posts in this thread I did a little write up a bunch of pages back. I don't know anything about heavy vehicles but those Hino ones seem really popular in Tassie.
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Oct 9, 2017 09:38
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Updating my 1994 Northland Polar 200 slide-in a bit. Replaced my 6-gallon water heater with a Suburban IW60. Don't know if anyone is considering going tankless but it was pretty easy, almost identical dimensions but gas/ water connections in different spots. Old original crusty. Most of the rust is hidden under the cover and styrofoam. I've been afraid to even put water in it.  Lots of room to access the super neat polybutylene tubing! That was sarcasm!  Since none of the grey poly was leaking (don't trust it for permanent housing tho) I just tied into it and voila.  Camper needs a bath then goes on its (or rather our, it's P.O. took it to Alaska and back several times) First Trip this weekend.  So far in driveway tests it is pretty great, hot water to all taps in under 8 secs. Scalding at 15 secs.
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Oct 31, 2017 01:36
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I can borrow my brother's 13 foot scamp for camping trips and my 3 and 5 year old like it a lot. (no bathroom or water but the stove and electric works) What I dislike is only going 55 on the freeway since I'm pulling a trailer. (In Southern California) This got me looking into pop up slide in truck campers. Am I being unrealistic thinking a family of 4 can camp in one of these? I understand it will be tight but the camper is mostly just used for sleeping, changing, breakfast for the kids in the morning so they can be warm in pj's and not out at a cold picnic table. I like the idea of pulling up to campsite and sliding it off the truck so we'd still have a vehicle to drive around but camp is all setup. Sort of using it like my brother's scamp, but carrying it on vehicle so it's easier to maneuver while traveling. We're pretty much always at campsites so bathroom/shower isn't a necessity. Would a F150 or Tacoma be enough? I'm reading people saying you really need to upgrade to the 3/4 ton trucks to make full use out of truck campers. I also found stuff like the habitat truck topper that seem like they'd work well for the smaller trucks. http://adventuretrailers.com/campers/toyota-habitat/
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Oct 31, 2017 19:19
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jonathan posted:Attn powershift and others. Are e450 based motorhomes from the mid 2000's a normal 6.0L powerstroke ? Super late catching up on this thread BUT DO NOT DO THIS FRIENDO. If its an E class Ford motorhome it is almost assuredly Gas.
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Nov 1, 2017 02:07
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Crunchy Black posted:Super late catching up on this thread BUT DO NOT DO THIS FRIENDO. If its an E class Ford motorhome it is almost assuredly Gas. Thanks. These ones I was looking at were diesels. Father ended up getting a restored 74 Minnie Winnie.
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Nov 5, 2017 06:34
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Hdip posted:I can borrow my brother's 13 foot scamp for camping trips and my 3 and 5 year old like it a lot. (no bathroom or water but the stove and electric works) What I dislike is only going 55 on the freeway since I'm pulling a trailer. (In Southern California) This got me looking into pop up slide in truck campers. My pop-top campervan sleeps 4 technically, however when we needed a bit more space as the family grew we bought a 4-person inflatable tent. Old school tents that take 30 minutes to put up wouldn't really be suitable especially in colder weather, but we've got the inflatable down to 5 minutes to put up using screw in tent pegs and a electric screwdriver which is pretty good. It connects to the camper with tarp and velcro strips and makes for a pretty decent extended living space that could technically sleep 8 (but is luxurious for 4). It was a cheaper option than getting a trailer or custom awning, and the ease of use is about the same, and we can still drive the van off with 5 minutes prep. 
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Nov 5, 2017 17:29
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If/when building a completely bespoke overland expedition camper frame out of square-stock steel tubing, what is the preferred method for attaching plywood sheathing to said frame? My initial thought is pilot hole the wood/metal at the same time and use self tapping screws and countersink the heads into the wood. Ultimately the outer wood sheathing would be covered with aluminum siding, camper fashion.
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Nov 16, 2017 17:46
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Maybe some tabs welded on to the inside or outside of the frame so that the body can be bolted down? That way you wouldn't have to drill into the frame and risk extra rusting and such over time.
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Nov 16, 2017 18:24
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Astonishing Wang posted:Maybe some tabs welded on to the inside or outside of the frame so that the body can be bolted down? That way you wouldn't have to drill into the frame and risk extra rusting and such over time. That's not a bad idea at all. A few dozen tabs would be inconsequential weight-wise, and you're right about the water ingress issues with drilling holes. I also worried about what kind of structural ramifications multiple holes per structural member would have.
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Nov 16, 2017 18:27
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:That's not a bad idea at all. A few dozen tabs would be inconsequential weight-wise, and you're right about the water ingress issues with drilling holes. I also worried about what kind of structural ramifications multiple holes per structural member would have. Easiest way is extra strips of angle iron. They're structurally sound enough to self tap plywood to, as the plywood is the actual structure. The angle iron ends up just being alignment.
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Nov 17, 2017 19:26
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cynic posted:My pop-top campervan sleeps 4 technically, however when we needed a bit more space as the family grew we bought a 4-person inflatable tent. Old school tents that take 30 minutes to put up wouldn't really be suitable especially in colder weather, but we've got the inflatable down to 5 minutes to put up using screw in tent pegs and a electric screwdriver which is pretty good. It connects to the camper with tarp and velcro strips and makes for a pretty decent extended living space that could technically sleep 8 (but is luxurious for 4). It was a cheaper option than getting a trailer or custom awning, and the ease of use is about the same, and we can still drive the van off with 5 minutes prep. That's a cool solution. I recently got an "instant up" tent after looking at a few options. It's working pretty well but takes up HEAPS of space in my car. Admittedly when the seats are folded flat it just takes up the floor with very little vertical space. I carry a compressor in the car anyway in case of flats so It's be interesting to see what the packaging is like comparing the two.
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Nov 18, 2017 15:46
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