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Oh yeah, if you really get sick of those cabinet doors, just have some real ones out of real wood made at a real cabinet shop.
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May 30, 2014 19:31
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Think so? I was pondering trying that Rustoleum Kitchen Transformations kit, it's basically deglosser, stain and a glaze. "No Sanding". New drawer pulls and hardware all around, I think those will help too.
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May 30, 2014 19:43
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Vans are cool, unfortunately mine is currently dead and having a new engine put in, Ill add some pics when I get it back.thegasman2000 posted:Anyone have any opinions on split charge relays? I can get a kit for like £20 on eBay or pay over £200 for one. I get batteries for free due to my work for a local scrap yard so kinda want something basic and cheap. Working starts soon :/ managed to beg and borrow from some electrician friends the wire I need. Ive done a few van conversions and Id recommend getting a voltage sensing relay. Years ago I converted an older transit (the model before yours) and tried using a relay from the alternator light but ended up burning out a few alternators before figuring out that it didnt like the relay on that circuit - Ive gone with voltage sensing since then. This is what Im on about : http://www.towsure.com/product/SelfSwitching_Combination_Relay - Id use that to run a bigger relay as the internal ones are a bit wimpy.
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May 30, 2014 21:52
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Jonny 290 posted:Think so? I was pondering trying that Rustoleum Kitchen Transformations kit, it's basically deglosser, stain and a glaze. "No Sanding". New drawer pulls and hardware all around, I think those will help too. I have never heard of these things, so I am not sure. Yeah, drawer pulls and poo poo are pretty cheap if they didn't gently caress up and use an RV only size on things.
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May 30, 2014 21:56
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cursedshitbox posted:
http://www.kimberleykampers.com/off-road-camper-trailer-photos Mum n Dad bought a Kimberley Kamper last year. Its awesome and I intend to steal it off them as often as possible. Although if your going bush properly where trailers are a liability, its hard to beat a roof top tent 
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May 31, 2014 00:17
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Ferremit posted:its hard to beat a roof top tent This is what I'm building up to for my Rover. RTT with a vestibule like that. I think it will serve all my needs, and I will likely sell my RV trailer once I get that. It's not for everyone....the trailer is a freaking portable hotel room, which is awesome. But that's just not what I want anymore.
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May 31, 2014 01:12
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Today I cut down half a tree to fit the RV in the driveway, got it in (first try!) and promptly started ripping apart the dash. That speaker wire was the constant 12v for an alarm. After taking this pic, we have ripped out about six stupid accessories (clocks and compasses), the stereo, the CB, and a Viper alarm that wasn't even hooked up.
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May 31, 2014 22:27
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grunthaas posted:This is what Im on about : http://www.towsure.com/product/SelfSwitching_Combination_Relay - Id use that to run a bigger relay as the internal ones are a bit wimpy. Got one similar in maplin for a tenner is anyone in the uk is interested. Also got a crimp kit. Here is to wiring fine goons
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May 31, 2014 23:38
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Jonny 290 posted:Today I cut down half a tree to fit the RV in the driveway, got it in (first try!) and promptly started ripping apart the dash. That speaker wire was the constant 12v for an alarm. You have a lot of poo poo to go through, but this is going to be awesome. DO NOT COMPROMISE on electrical or water sealing. If you're missing something and just want to get a job done STOP. Get the right stuff and do it right. You'll be happy (or not pissed) later.
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Jun 1, 2014 00:18
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Oh yeah, there is no reason to skimp or hold off. I have more than the RV's price allocated for a renovation budget, and we have a month to clean it up, and the last 3 weeks of that I will be off work and can fulltime wrench. OK, so. I can't get it up on battery power but it has two 145 Trojans in the front. There are DPDT switches for "main" and "aux" batteries in the cabin, the main battery solenoid does a click-on-click-off, same when I hit the 'off' switch. Aux battery solenoid is silent both directions. Here's our "MAIN DISTRIBUTION PANEL - DISCONNECT BATTERIES BEFORE OPENING" (heh) under the hood.  There are two battery trays in one of the basements, with +/- battery cables that appear to go to the front, and then two that go to the next basement over to the.... CONVERTER A: Down in the basement is an Energenius EG3200G. I found the manual here. No clicks or anything when I hit the power button. CONVERTER B: Under the fridge is the stock Progressive Dynamics converter. Both of the converters have AC breaker panels and DC fuse panels. I don't believe the Energenius has DC rails hanging off of it, I am only seeing battery input and 120V out. I believe the main converter is feeding the Energenius AC, because on the Progressive Dynamics box there is a hand written "energenius" sticker on the last AC breaker. We've got some weirdo wiring here. Should be an adventure. e: I believe the Trojans have some juice, because the hydraulic pump for the jacks is wired straight to them, and they extend/retract.
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Jun 1, 2014 00:46
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off road campers? Don't mind if I do.  Volvo C304, someone above mentioned looking into one but top speed and noise killed it for them - I've managed to get the noise down significantly with an electric fan and sound insulation, still an ongoing project. Top speed isn't bad on the flats (60+) but going up hills, not so much. Engine is a stock B30A with about 100 HP, I may take that into a volvo workshop to have a higher compression head from a later B30 put on, which should help considerably. That or just replace the entire engine with a diesel. Rear I don't have great photos of right now, because it's still work in progress, but a nice split-fold seat out of an expedition, with a rear-facing jumpseat, and then a full queen size bed behind that, and room enough for some tall cabinets next to the bed. Slow-going process, but I've already taken it camping once and it was amazing (up a hairy rocky 4x4 path after dark, then the skies opened up and rain and hail came in hard and heavy). Recently added a folding table to the back, working on a radio/12v cabinet, etc etc. I also looked at Pinzgauers, but even the 712 was just a bit too small for what I wanted. We don't really have land rover 101's out here.
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Jun 1, 2014 02:59
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Good Lord, that thing has like a 60 degree angle of approach. I love it!
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Jun 1, 2014 03:15
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I've got a basic idea of the motorhome wiring. I believe they added a second power converter (the Energenius) to run the microwave off inverter, as it's got a big old MSW inverter built in and the microwave oven 120V circuit is the only thing hanging off of it. The rest of the house AC and DC circuits are running off of the Progressive Dynamics box upstairs, which has a 30A breaker that used to be labeled "Microwave" and is now labeled "Energenius", which lines up with my theory. Paint time!  I really dislike how the two battery banks (the rear is currently empty) have 20 feet of cable between them, regardless of the gauge. I'd like to move all four to the rear. The plan is to replace this mess with a Progressive Dynamics PD4060 distribution panel that has a built in 12v 60a power supply. In front of this I'll run an automatic transfer switch. In addition to that, I need to figure out how to work in a ~1000W pure sine wave inverter, which I want to have available for laptops. What I was thinking about doing was something like this, its contingent on the wall outlets being on separate runs from the microwave/washer and air conditioning, but I expect that to be the case.  This way it would be impossible to overload the inverter with appliances, and we could just remote on/off the inverter to switch all of the coach outlets to inverted power for laptops or whatever. But if we had shore or generator power, we could pass that through.
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Jun 2, 2014 04:50
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Jonny 290 posted:
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Jun 3, 2014 00:13
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My converter/panel has shipped! I havent gotten batteries yet but we've settled on 4x Energizer 6v ~220AH golf cart batteries from Sam's Club (we don't have Costco here) for $102 each after tax, picking them up tomorrow. Next best bid in town is $140 after tax each for Trojan 105's, so I'll save enough to pay for a good chunk of the solar subsystem. Started tearing up the carpet today, just basically going hog wild with a crowbar, box cutter and set of pliers for staples. HOW MANY STAPLES DO YOU NEED IN THIS CARPET? ALL OF THEM. We're going to keep the booth/table/bed thing, we talked about removing it, but without slides it'd be a minimal square footage gain, and the storage and extra sleep capacity won't hurt if we have a couple of drunk friends that refuse to spoon. Gotta pull the toilet tomorrow and get the carpet out of the bathroom (UGH WHO DOES THAT?)
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Jun 3, 2014 02:57
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Jonny 290 posted:My converter/panel has shipped! I havent gotten batteries yet but we've settled on 4x Energizer 6v ~220AH golf cart batteries from Sam's Club (we don't have Costco here) for $102 each after tax, picking them up tomorrow. Next best bid in town is $140 after tax each for Trojan 105's, so I'll save enough to pay for a good chunk of the solar subsystem. My elementary school decided to carpet the lunchroom one year. The lunchroom floor of a school for kids ages 5 to 10 covered in carpet  . The smell when they pulled it up during the summer 3 years later was incomprehensibly terrible. I've worked at landfills, poultry rendering plants, water treatment facilities, and all manner of industrial sites and that carpet is still the most horrifying thing I have ever smelled. It will haunt me till the day I die.
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Jun 3, 2014 03:06
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Jonny 290 posted:Gotta pull the toilet tomorrow and get the carpet out of the bathroom (UGH WHO DOES THAT?) When we were looking at houses there was one fairly new one with WHITE carpet in the bathroom. It was noticeably stained around the toilet.
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Jun 3, 2014 03:53
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So I am stumped. I read the instructions for the relay and its dead simple. Inputs in one side and outputs to both batteries on the other right. Well not really as I cannot for the life of me firgure out where the alternator output is as it disappears off into the loom. The starter motor is obvious as its triple the gauge cable, presumably i want this off the + and - terminals of the starter battery and not + and chassis earth. The main issue here is I cant read wiring diagrams for poo poo!
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Jun 3, 2014 14:30
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Advent Horizon posted:When we were looking at houses there was one fairly new one with WHITE carpet in the bathroom. Man, when my family moved into the house I grew up in there was carpet in the bathroom and the kitchen. The kitchen carpet was this dark brown indoor/outdoor kinda carpet, but the stuff in the bathroom was the same as the carpet throughout the rest of the house - thick blue shag with gold highlights. It didn't last long.
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Jun 3, 2014 14:48
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thegasman2000 posted:So I am stumped. I read the instructions for the relay and its dead simple. Inputs in one side and outputs to both batteries on the other right. Well not really as I cannot for the life of me firgure out where the alternator output is as it disappears off into the loom. The starter motor is obvious as its triple the gauge cable, presumably i want this off the + and - terminals of the starter battery and not + and chassis earth. Is it a relatively modern alt? Its wire may hit a terminal block somewhere to tie into the hot side, that's why you're not finding the other end maybe.
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Jun 3, 2014 15:54
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Jonny 290 posted:Is it a relatively modern alt? Its wire may hit a terminal block somewhere to tie into the hot side, that's why you're not finding the other end maybe. Its got a 4 pin plastic connector, which I presume I need to hack into. Don't really like doing things that are not reversible in the future.
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Jun 3, 2014 20:16
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If its a voltage sensing relay then it doesnt need a connection to the alternator - just go straight from the battery. Whats the maplin part number?
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Jun 3, 2014 20:53
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grunthaas posted:If its a voltage sensing relay then it doesnt need a connection to the alternator - just go straight from the battery. Whats the maplin part number? It was cheap so... http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/kemo-lead-acid-battery-split-charge-module-n73au Kemo Lead Acid Battery Split Charge Module Code: N73AU
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Jun 3, 2014 22:00
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I actually have two whole days this weekend to tear into our Scotty and get it disassembled down to the bare frame. I am beside myself with excitement that I should get to really work on it for the first time since we got it. Photo dumps of the festivities to follow!
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Jun 6, 2014 16:38
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News and such: I got the new power panel (Progressive Dynamics PD4060) wired in. Circuits to spare! Also a modern 55 amp switching supply instead of "transformer and some diodes" awful poo poo. Installed a transfer switch, too, nice and burly. I may salvage a second transfer switch to toggle the outlet circuits (thank god they're all on one line) between shore/generator and inverter. Purchased batteries, we're going with 4x Energizer golf cart batteries from Sam's club. I'm saving enough that I can buy Water Miser caps as well as some new jumpers between batteries, so I am perfectly happy with this decision. On the interior, carpet is out and I am moving along ripping out staples. Soooooo many staples. We have a couple of possible paints picked out (green family) and are waiting for a dry day or two to Kilz. May not happen for a whole week - gently caress you, weather.
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Jun 9, 2014 01:40
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We have 12V in the back! I got all the batteries in, only one bank is hooked up right now but I am seeing like no voltage sag even with 300w of lights on. Oh, this thing is full of 1141 bulbs which eat ~18 watts, the 2 watt LED panels I ordered should be in soon, that should be a pretty dramatic reduction in power consumption and heat - those incandescent pieces of crap run hot and a couple of the diffusers are heat-warped. I do have 250 mA draw when I throw the house on, so I want to trace that just to know where it's going - suspecting the LP gas detector. I ID'd the two mystery cables going to the house batteries too - one is for the genny starter (duh) and the other is for the isolation relay to allow you to start the thing off the house batteries if your main dies (double duh). I had to get a battery terminal with a couple bolt holes to split off all the cables, as there are like five cables on the house positive (rear battery bank, main relay, jacks, generator, isolator) and the new battery bolt studs weren't quite long enough. Haven't plugged in 120V yet even though I have it (I believe) wired up just fine. I'm concerned because I didn't trace out the fridge 120v power so I kind of want to go back in the morning and do that first before I throw breakers. BTW this thing has like a fuckin 40 foot power cord hardwired and a 30 foot extension, both 8/3. Tons o' copper, I like it.
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Jun 12, 2014 03:11
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Jonny 290 posted:I ID'd the two mystery cables going to the house batteries too - one is for the genny starter (duh) and the other is for the isolation relay to allow you to start the thing off the house batteries if your main dies (double duh). This is all a very, very good sign. That thing was set up right.
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Jun 12, 2014 04:45
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Ah hah! Fridge on that circuit that up until now I only ID'd a single outlet on, in the kitchen. Assumed it was just for blenders and such. That works out perfectly though, lets me isolate the _rest_ of the outlets via a transfer switch and an inverter. Max switching flexibility! Yeah, i'm overdesigning the wiring from the get-go, might as well. e: Kind of funny how out of context, so far my posts in here are more DIY than AI
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Jun 12, 2014 20:03
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I'm loving this thread but we need some pictures. I would love to rebuild an RV, only if I had space for it.
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Jun 13, 2014 00:55
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As requested! All puking storage compartment crap all over the driveway.  Most convenient way to store the couch while we do the floors  Power center - need to make a little trim panel to go around this  Gen/line transfer switch  Bedroom - taking the bed things apart. I'm going to Voltron them together into a centered queen frame - should be pretty easy, actually.  One of my favorite weird bits - this rear heater in the bed frame runs off engine coolant hardlines run alllllll the way back. Helps keep it from getting chilly on winter trips.  Bathroom lights 100%! Matter of fact, all interior lights are up. need to figure out why the basement storage lights aren't coming on, that's about it. 
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Jun 13, 2014 03:18
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Check the pressure switches, those fuckers like to get gummed up like you wouldn't believe. But if it's all of them, pray there isn't a switch somewhere turned off.
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Jun 13, 2014 04:41
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IV8 wins - the little pigtails to all the door switches are cut. Guessing they started failing closed and they got direct with a solution. -- A little old man stopped by yesterday. He said that his name was Elwood and he lived down the street. He was a long-time RV'er but had to sell his stuff off. Well, almost all. You see, he kept his entire tow hardware setup - tow bar, brake controller, etc - and was wondering if I had one yet. He paid, gosh, he thinks seven or eight hundred dollars for it all, and he'd give it to me cheap.... Holy poo poo, a brake buddy alone is almost a grand. I may be about to make out like a fuckin' bandit. Update: Slapped some paint up (darker = cabinets, lighter = wall). The seatbelt is standing in for a brown that we're going to match to new fabric for the window cornices, and then do the cabinet doors in that brown. Earth tones all up in here. (I'm going to paint the trim, just an experiment) Test next to our flooring sample: 
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Jun 14, 2014 02:33
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We're goin yellow instead of that green, it's too pea-soup-ey. Anyways, god drat it, the PO has an Everstart 24MS battery in the chassis battery position. It's a "Marine" battery that only has 500 CCA. No wonder that 454 was so slow to turn over. Needs replaced with a conventional truck starting battery.
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Jun 14, 2014 18:07
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Jonny 290 posted:IV8 wins - the little pigtails to all the door switches are cut. Guessing they started failing closed and they got direct with a solution. WHOOT! What did I win?? Really though, those little bulbs can get hot as gently caress and melt the light cover, if you are Oprah Rich® you might see about LED replacement bulbs. Also do you have standard sized bulbs in just a couple of lights inside? Not sure if you do, but those are your 120v lights if you have a split system. If you have them, and the new EPA "green" bulbs in them, they will blow like clockwork every couple of months. You'll have to carry a fuckload of replacements. Those little 12v bulbs will last forever (in most cases longer than the plastic light coverings). You should go with the green and yellow and get some fake brushed brass and go full on 1970's pimp daddy party pad. Also, you are going to want to score a Camco Fridge Airator or something like that, or wire in a squirrel cage fan to the fridge, because surprise surprise, there isn't anything in the fridge to move air, and if you are really sick of the way the fridge looks, I'm pretty sure Domestic makes replacement fridge door covers so out with the wood and in with black or brushed stainless. Oh yeah, don't forget when you first start driving that thing, to do the ice trick in the blackwater tank.
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Jun 14, 2014 23:38
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InterceptorV8 posted:WHOOT! What did I win?? Turns out that the LED option is way cheaper than I thought. _Every_ interior bulb in this thing is a standard 18W 1141 bulb, and I found a stateside source for these little LED panels that just have a pigtail that plugs in, and double stick tape on the back. So far I've bought ten and am totally happy, and will buy some more. 10 for $17.99 shipped and here in three days. When you start talking about 2.5W draw (my measurement) versus 18 watts per bulb, in a limited-capacity battery system, it's a no-brainer. Read the ice trick, it's clever and I will not forget. Speaking of shitters, I still have to pull the bathroom carpet,which I'm shy about because I have to pull the toilet, and I want to make sure I can get a replacement wax ring so I don't do the plumbing equivalent of loosening the diff drain plug before the fill plug. we're not doing the hardwood in there though, I'm just going to lay down linoleum and bend it up at the walls and affix it to them for a little bit of water-away-from-walls protection. Here's our latest paint test. We really like the pale (pale pale) green on the wall, and are now looking at the orangey peach and the blue (which wasnt 100% dry here). Both are pulled out of a fabric we got to recover the cornices (forgot to take a pic of that). Getting them one step off of flat, we don't want gloss. We want to do a much darker floor with this, some sort of mahogany range. Not black, but not red oak spectrum either. E: and brushed nickel hardware - though I'm not buying hinges, jesus they're $6 each and i'd need like 24. going to just clean, prime and paint them. 
Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jun 15, 2014 |
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Jun 15, 2014 00:13
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More sunshine! And a crazy dark floor! whatcha think? daylights gone sorry for the lovely iphone flash pic
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Jun 15, 2014 02:42
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Jonny 290 posted:More sunshine! And a crazy dark floor! whatcha think? That's really yellow isn't it?
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Jun 15, 2014 03:14
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Yellow as HELL. I gotta put some up next to the wall paint, see how that combo looks.
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Jun 15, 2014 03:54
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Jonny 290 posted:Yellow as HELL. I gotta put some up next to the wall paint, see how that combo looks. Not sure if it works with your fabric or even in a space like an RV, but we did a yellow similar to that on the walls with slate grey on the cabinets with nickel hardware and it turned out fantastic. Digging the progress though. Keep it up man.
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Jun 15, 2014 06:21
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Jonny 290 posted:Turns out that the LED option is way cheaper than I thought. _Every_ interior bulb in this thing is a standard 18W 1141 bulb, and I found a stateside source for these little LED panels that just have a pigtail that plugs in, and double stick tape on the back. So far I've bought ten and am totally happy, and will buy some more. 10 for $17.99 shipped and here in three days. The cheaper panels (read: 99% of them) get really damned hot, and since LEDs don't like heat a whole lot, they tend to burn out kinda easy. That said, if it's a light you can dim, or don't use for an hour at a time (or it at least isn't a sealed fixture), go for the cheap panels. They usually don't burn out all at once; the one I have in my car (to replace the stock dome light bulb) has five LEDs (out of maybe 40) out after a year of abuse.
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Jun 15, 2014 11:14
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