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Yeah I’ve got a new machine running proxmox now (literally setup yesterday) and I’m gonna throw it on and give it a whirl on. In honesty I might just use it for remote access and backup of the feed recording as I’ve really not minded the Tapo app itself given the camera does all the hard work of detection on board that way, and seems to do a solid job of it. It was fun getting this ping at midnight last night! ![]() ![]() I have 2 more C120s coming too, for $20-25 they feel such a steal.
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# ? Apr 24, 2025 13:29 |
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Anyone familiar with ZWave and Home Asisstant: I’ve been having issues with ZWave devices dropping dead for as long as I’ve had this ZWave stick. A light will work fine for days or weeks, and then drop off the network and require a manual ping or power cycle to get back up. I had considered getting a new stick, but the hassle of manually de-linking all my devices and then re-binding them to the new stick stopped me. …Until I went to add a new device to the network, and now my current stick won’t go into bind mode, even plugged into a powered-USB hub. I think the battery is completely fuckered. What are my options here, and does anyone make a ZWave controller that isn’t a lovely little USB stick that depends on a battery?
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MrYenko posted:Anyone familiar with ZWave and Home Asisstant: I’ve been having issues with ZWave devices dropping dead for as long as I’ve had this ZWave stick. A light will work fine for days or weeks, and then drop off the network and require a manual ping or power cycle to get back up. I use the Zooz 800 stick: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BW171KP3 It just runs power through the USB port. Haven't had any issues. But I currently only run like...three Zwave devices.
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I just use the aeotec zwave stick that doesn't have a battery like that old one (wtf why does it have a battery lmao)
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Celexi posted:I just use the aeotec zwave stick that doesn't have a battery like that old one (wtf why does it have a battery lmao) They used to include batteries so you could carry them around to add devices from up close without being connected to a computer.
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Kalman posted:They used to include batteries so you could carry them around to add devices from up close without being connected to a computer. That’s the only way mine would bind. ![]() I really don’t want to have to unpair everything on the goddamned network.
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Trying to get into the Philips Hue stuff, eventually move it over to HA. Crazy that I couldn't get the Bridge/Hub to update out of the box with the official app. Had to resort to some sort of third party app all the help posts were recommending. It forces you to update to even do anything with it. Apparently it cam happen of the device's firmware is too old? Box says 2023, that's not that old! I'm at least tech savvy, how many customers are getting filtered out with this step? Also I bought one of those lighting bars, only to realize it was an "expansion" pack that does not come with the power connector, have to buy the base version for that. At least that one is kind of on me ![]()
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I hate my Phillips hue poo poo and it’s always been dodgy so I wouldn’t invest heavily but some people swear by them.
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FuzzySlippers posted:I hate my Phillips hue poo poo and it’s always been dodgy so I wouldn’t invest heavily but some people swear by them. I don't intend to go whole hog on it, just some extra lights to help in the winter. I got one of the small lights, the Go, and I'm liking that one quite a bit. What alternatives are there? There's a ton of fly by night Chinese systems that will stop working in a year. Or you can roll your own I guess?
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If you have a zigbee hub i like the sengled / innr stuff for smart bulbs / plugs. I have a few of each and they integrate immediately into Home Assistant through the hub and they’ve held up each for a few years with more or less daily use . There are a lot cheaper than the Hue equivalent.
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Every smart light thing I've tried has been somewhat unreliable so it's just a question of how much money to regret later when cursing at the half working gadget. Might as well get a cheaper one ![]()
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Markovnikov posted:Trying to get into the Philips Hue stuff, eventually move it over to HA. Crazy that I couldn't get the Bridge/Hub to update out of the box with the official app. Had to resort to some sort of third party app all the help posts were recommending. It forces you to update to even do anything with it. Apparently it cam happen of the device's firmware is too old? Box says 2023, that's not that old! I'm at least tech savvy, how many customers are getting filtered out with this step? Hue updates works only if you are relatively close to current, otherwise the official app will go bananas. When I got my latest pack of gu10 (which were several years older than current), I had to use the Bluetooth link mode to get them updated quickly. After everything got to current, they started updating flawlessly. The play bar power supply is incredibly stupid, Edit: Signify does sell the power brick now https://www.philips-hue.com/en-gb/p/hue-philips-hue-play-light-bar-power-adaptor/8720169267978 SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Apr 5, 2025 |
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FuzzySlippers posted:Every smart light thing I've tried has been somewhat unreliable so it's just a question of how much money to regret later when cursing at the half working gadget. Might as well get a cheaper one Yeah thats how I approached it too. Ive been very happy with these for the cost, longevity and ease of use so far. The build quality so far has seemed good, i cant see any obvious lack there compared to my old Hue bulbs when comparing the A12 ones. Good light strip from them too that just works and came with adhesive backing on everything for mounting.
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The only shortcoming of using hue with third party bulbs is that you lost HomeKit compatibility, now that matter sidesteps that nothing stops you from buying cheap innr, ikea or whatever is cheap beside bulb lifetimes and color resolution or light temperature stability. My house is 75% innr bulbs and the rest is hue (bridge included) since the sync for windows software hard requires hue items.
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The true path is dumb bulbs, smart switches. Smart switches are generally more reliable than smart bulbs are; almost always still work when you physically switch them even if their smart functionality is broken so in the worst case scenario you fall back to normal dumb switch usage; and you're paying the 'smart' price premium on the piece of infrastructure that isn't the disposable part so you save money in the long term. Of course you don't get to have blinged out rainbow bulbs that way; so it's a personal choice. (Incidentally, I've had a lot of success with WiZ smart bulbs.)
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Counterpoint: mechanical relays have a limited cycle life. I had an athom smart plug that failed after like 6 months of use.
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of our 50 or so hue bulbs all but three are working after a decade. they have better color and are brighter
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biznatchio posted:(Incidentally, I've had a lot of success with WiZ smart bulbs.) I was coming into the thread to specifically ask about these. I've been looking at buying a set of Halo RGB thin canless lights to replace the dumb non-RGB ones I have currently installed, and I was going to ask how well Wiz works off HA. My one concern is that each light will be its own Wi-Fi AP (right?) and that can crowd up the 2.4GHz channels real quick. There would be 9 total, and I'd be looking to gen up some scripts for party and Christmas lighting with them. Secondarily, the lights currently operate off two dimmer switches. Those would have to be swapped out for dumb switches right? I heard smart LEDs hate dimmer controllers.
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HolHorsejob posted:Counterpoint: mechanical relays have a limited cycle life. I had an athom smart plug that failed after like 6 months of use. I've had dozens of z-wave switches for nearly a decade and they are fine. But I spent real money on them for things that are actually UL listed from companies one has headr of (Honeywell). I really don't think worrying about the number of cycles in a light switch is a thing one needs to do unless you're buying garbage.
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biznatchio posted:The true path is dumb bulbs, smart switches. Smart switches are generally more reliable than smart bulbs are; almost always still work when you physically switch them even if their smart functionality is broken so in the worst case scenario you fall back to normal dumb switch usage; and you're paying the 'smart' price premium on the piece of infrastructure that isn't the disposable part so you save money in the long term. That's a good idea. I've thought it would be neat to have bias lights and maybe a small desk lamp that come on automatically when waking my desktop computer and turn off when it goes to sleep. It seems like I'd have to use IOT link to let HA know my computer is awake or asleep and then fire off automation to turn stuff on or off. Since smart lights have always been glitchy for me I figured that'd be annoying, but maybe a smart outlet would work better.
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If we're talking about a desktop computer and the lights are physically close to it, you could also do this with one of those "energy saving" power strips that has a control/sense outlet. You plug your computer into that outlet, which is always on, and the strip has a current sensor on that outlet. When current draw goes up enough (you turn the computer on), the strip turns on the controlled outlets. It's meant to control things like your monitor; I used one when I had a desktop in my bedroom with a monitor with a godawful blinking blue LED in sleep mode. But absolutely no reason it couldn't control bias lights.
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biznatchio posted:The true path is dumb bulbs, smart switches. Smart switches are generally more reliable than smart bulbs are; almost always still work when you physically switch them even if their smart functionality is broken so in the worst case scenario you fall back to normal dumb switch usage; and you're paying the 'smart' price premium on the piece of infrastructure that isn't the disposable part so you save money in the long term. 100% this. I'm incredibly happy with our Caseta switches. I'm also going to add the Bond Bridge and the Lutron Aurora dimmer. We live in an older house, no neutral with three of our rooms having ceiling fan/light combos. Just no way around it. ![]() Appears to be a completely normal dimmer nob but it locks the light switch on and controls the Hue bulbs in the fan like any normal dimmer. Basically any fan with an RF remote will connect to the Bond Bridge for fan speed settings and you can have the remote handy for turning it on/off and fan speed settings without using your smart home system. Every light switch and fan in our house operates as completely as expected, it's just that when we settling in for a movie in our den we can dim every light in our house from our phone.
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I like the tuneable white for sunrise/sunset automations, cause then i can have bright white during the daytime, and warm white in the evenings and mornings. ![]()
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taiyoko posted:I like the tuneable white for sunrise/sunset automations, cause then i can have bright white during the daytime, and warm white in the evenings and mornings. About to move to a windowless office and kind of freaking out. Ordered 4 tunable white Wyze bulbs because they claim to have built in sun cycle settings.
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AlternateNu posted:IMy one concern is that each light will be its own Wi-Fi AP (right?) No, WiZ bulbs are Wi-Fi clients, not access points. You join them onto your existing network.
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Seconding WiZ bulbs. I've had no trouble with any of them, they've worked in Alexa, and they work now in Home Assistant. Speaking of, I have some voice hardware on the way. I set up the Assist pipeline on my Home Server (a little NUC I have running proxmox) and it's doing just fine locally for the stuff I need, which is local control of stuff and keeping a grocery list. If you want to test it for yourself, the Home Assistant app in ios or android will let you input voice via your phone. That way you can verify your setup works before paying for the speaker/mic boxes. I'm sure if I tried to do anything like 'alexa, what is the tallest pile of poo poo in the US' it would fail, but I don't need that.
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Looking for recs for home cameras. Doorbelll / external only, with a couple constraints: 1. Battery powered / wireless only. 2. Plays nice with Home Assistant. The house we bought had Blink cameras set up and they would probably be well enough other than I wish they had a better home assistant integration for it but after messing around for a bit it seems pretty poo poo. I don’t need much beyond pretty basic motion detection and some short term video capturing ability. I’d prefer something that’s not a ton of janitoring but willing to consider it.
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battery powered wifi cameras seem like they'd be pretty dodgy unless it was some kinda elaborate solar setup but I've never messed with such things. I need to keep tweaking my frigate settings because one of my cameras will not shut up about this stump moving lol ![]()
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FuzzySlippers posted:battery powered wifi cameras seem like they'd be pretty dodgy unless it was some kinda elaborate solar setup but I've never messed with such things. Frigate is just a new advertising platform for Blammo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-9scNP5KWk
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FuzzySlippers posted:I need to keep tweaking my frigate settings because one of my cameras will not shut up about this stump moving lol just motion mask it out - easy peasy my setup is misidentifying my sons white blanket in his empty crib (daytime) because it’s been asked to identify him asleep in nanit night vision using frigate plus and just pointing out the false positives so hopefully it eventually figures it out
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Three Olives posted:
this is brilliant
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FuzzySlippers posted:battery powered wifi cameras seem like they'd be pretty dodgy unless it was some kinda elaborate solar setup but I've never messed with such things. Home Automation & Security systems: One of my cameras will not shut up about this stump moving
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Subjunctive posted:this is brilliant They are wonderful, I have a half dozen of them around my house basically anywhere I have smart bulbs on the switched circuit and they almost always do exactly what they promise. My oldest one was bought when they were a new product years ago and only in the last year has the low battery light been coming on. I've been ignoring it for months now, it still works fine. I have a replacement battery available I just want to see how long it'll go.
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wolrah posted:They are wonderful, I have a half dozen of them around my house basically anywhere I have smart bulbs on the switched circuit and they almost always do exactly what they promise. Yeah same, I have a few of them hanging around and they’ve always been solid and reliable. They’re a great choice if adding a switch for smart bulbs without a lot of expense is what you need.
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Literally a Dog posted:Any opinions on Eufy vs Reolink? OK I kind of give up on battery operated, mostly because UniFi doesn't make one :P I did try out Reolink and the camera itself is pretty nice and good quality but the Android app isn't so great or easy to use, which is really important for the primary user. I've tried Eufy with a Homebase but Homebase broadcasts its own Wifi which is never gonna work, need to connect via the mesh. The app is OK but a bit buggy for continuous recording. Finally, I grabbed a Unifi Instant G4 (I already have a CloudKey 2 whatever at home to test with) and it's pretty good! Their app is the best of any I've used and the camera quality seems fine. Issues are price and configuring a new unit will take some time, it's obviously for people who buy the whole ecosystem etc. I will need to learn how to do notifications and stuff as at home I don't have them enabled, and the software has changed so much over the years (I used to run the Unifi video server on a windows box...) I'd try BlueIris so I can run anything that puts out RTSP or whatever the modern protocol is but the Android app has fairly low ratings unfortunately. I'm trying to keep this as user friendly as possible and keep myself from doing tech support all the time
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I just bought my second robot vacuum ever, the Samsung Bespoke Jet Bot Combo AI. (Lol what a mouthful) So far this is loving INCREDIBLE. My previous one, the trusty Roomba 880 that i bought ~10 years ago had all right vacuuming capabilities, but god drat was it dumb. I had previously not bothered with the new robot vacuums because they honestly did not offer anything substantially better than the Roomba 880. I mean what's the point of wifi and schedules if they will just get tangled in cords anyway? Or the dreaded poop disaster. As a dual-adhd household, our home is pretty cluttered. So the fact that this little pupper has really good collision avoidance is a big plus. And, it's also flagging a lot of stuff erroneously as dogshit and steering clear so i'll probably be safe even if my other pupper takes a sneaky poo poo somewhere hidden. (Extremely rare but diarrhea sometimes just happens) Like i can literally have all kinds of stuff on the floor and it will just zap around vacuuming what it can. It's really nice to be able to confidently just put it on without having to think long and hard if it will destroy something or immediately get stuck. Edit: it does seem to bug out sometimes and forget that it was cleaning sometimes and just go back to the dock. I'll have to observe what's going on Edit2: Wait i think it might be the full height mirror that makes my vacuum bug out. Is this something that happens or am i barking up the wrong tree? Like it thinks that the mirror is a bathroom and bugged out and thought that the dock was 1 meter to the right of it and just went crazy trying to find it. The dock is on the other side of the house lol Keisari fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Apr 10, 2025 |
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Finally spent more than five minutes playing with Frigate and even on just raw CPU detection I'm already happier with how it performs than BlueIris. Going to go ahead and start moving everything over (and ordered a Coral TPU). The only annoying thing about this is that now that I can stuff everything on Ubuntu, I really don't need the second box I bought/built just for BlueIris. edit again: The only other annoying thing is the attitude the Frigate devs take towards lovely cameras. I've got a PTZ camera that inexplicably has pan reversed. BlueIris gives you a toggle to flip that, Frigate's devs take the "why should we change, he's the one who sucks" approach. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Apr 11, 2025 |
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I keep planning to do this exact thing with frigate… any good resources you’ve found that you could share to get up to speed or was the documentation good enough? I plan to start with a single reolink e1 pro that I have set up for rtsp already and integrated into ha via the “advanced camera card”
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The docs are somewhat dense and definitely written with the same "we already know how this works, why should we explain it" attitude. The installation page, for example, partially covers a whole bunch of edge cases before they bother to give you a complete docker compose example. The full reference config is vastly more helpful than the built-in config file. The camera configuration page doesn't even make any mention of go2rtc or why you'd want to use it. The reason why, by the way, is that without using go2rtc, you get some rear end-quality mjpeg video on the web UI instead of what the camera can actually do. Here's an anonymized version of my config for reference. I'm running it in a Docker container on a HPP SFF PC running Ubuntu, currently without the Coral TPU. And yes, that whole subnet is blocked completely from the internet, thanks to cameras like that lovely PTZ with a hardcoded and well published admin password. I also have yet to integrate this with HomeAssistant. code:
IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Apr 11, 2025 |
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# ? Apr 24, 2025 13:29 |
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Keisari posted:I just bought my second robot vacuum ever, the Samsung Bespoke Jet Bot Combo AI. (Lol what a mouthful) Never owned one but from what I've read, depending on what technology they use to map the environment, yeah mirrors can make them bug out. There's many a post about mirrors creating "shadow realms" in the vacuum"s map.
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