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Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009
Getting into this smart home stuff. I’ve got a bunch of wifi plugs (reflashed to Tasmota) and 2 wemos H&T sensors, next on the list is to change my blynk meat smoker temp monitor to esphome - all going into home assistant.
I’d like to do the light switches but there’s no solution that is just a drop in replacement that leaves them looking the same but with remote control.
The selling point for me is it all works without a cloud service of any kind, I won’t have Alexa or the like - it’s a shame the only offline voice assistant system got bought up recently by sonoff.

What are my options for HA compatible sensors for doors, windows etc? The Wyze stuff posted a while back are well priced but look like they need cloud access, is there a well supported 433mhz option? There’s also a traditional hardwire alarm system, is it worth trying to integrate that into HA? Arming on a timer with additional conditions through HA would be pretty good. E.g. If no presence detected for x time then arm

I’m also playing with ble for presence detection with moderate sucess using esp32 as receivers and keybob sized beacons on carkeys.

Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Dec 30, 2019

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Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009
UK switches and ones that aren’t double have more than one switch per room.

There was nearly a row when I put Tuya plugs on the lamps in the lounge, so replacing the rocker switches with glowing blue touch pads isn’t going to do.

I’ve impulse purchased some Shelly 2.5s to see if they fit, I’m not optimistic though

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

Slash posted:

I've put Shellys behind all of the light switches in my house (UK also). I did have to install some spacers on the more crowded backboxes to make enough space though. This is the closest i found to a "drop-in" replacement which still leaves the physical switches.

Once you've got the Shelly installed change the Switch Mode to "Edge", that way the physical switch will always work no matter what state the lights are in. Also set them to MQTT control, this disables the Cloud stuff and lets you hook them up to Home Assistant. You can re-flash them with tasmota but i didn't bother as the stock firmware works fine for me.

Another tip is to set them to Static IP address, this resolved an issue i had where two of them would drop off the wifi network after a few weeks.

e: You can install the Shellys at the other end of the connection (i.e. by the light) if that works better for your wiring. Also don't forget that you need a neutral wire for the Shelly 2.5

Is that particular to 2.5s, I can’t remember if there’s a neutral in the switch, I’ve a horrible feeling they’re all live lines?
The main ones I want to change are the switches for the hall and outside lights so I have them come on when it gets dark. But as you’d expect the switch boxes are in solid walls.

I think I’ll also pick up one of these to see if it can work with HA https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-900-series-13a-2-gang-sp-smart-socket-white/827gv#product_additional_details_container . Some reviews mention they worth with smart life so maybe the wireless Tuya flasher will work. Cheap enough if it doesn’t.

Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Dec 31, 2019

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

quote:


Alexa Tokens for 24,000 users who have connected Alexa devices to their Wyze camera

😱 Tokens are how you access someone’s account bypassing their password, pin, 2 factor authentication etc. It’s why you should never use Your Facebook or google account to log in to any 3rd party site or service.

It’s funny, the trope is it’s governments who tell people ‘if you have nothing to hide or have nothing to fear’. But really it’s Apple and google and amazon - they put it in their terms and conditions for everyone to see and consumers are like ‘gently caress it, free stuff’

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009
If the app/device is looking for mysmartserver.tplinkaccount.com it’ll work from anywhere but always go through the tplinkaccount.com server, even when you’re at home. So you are reliant on that server being available and responsive. But since the developers _assume_ you’ll be permanently online it tries that first and maybe falls back to local scanning when it times out.

This is probably what you’re seeing.

Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 09:55 on Jan 6, 2020

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

Thermopyle posted:

Compared to what you could do 5 years ago? Amazing.


I couldn’t find any options for standalone voice control, if you can give me a steer that’d be great.

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

Thermopyle posted:

Is Hikvision still the IP camera to get?

I've seen Uniview being used by an installer as an hik alternative - they certainly look to be pitching themselves at the same level with similar specs but slightly cheaper.

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

sharkytm posted:

AKA "Chinese security or technology company"

There are ethical corporations?

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

Thermopyle posted:

I am an LLC with a total number of employees equaling 1.

I like to think of myself as ethical!

But that’s just for carpooling so you’re ok.

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009
Many (most) IP cameras have a built in web server for configuration so you bypass the need for software. Most can output an rtsp video stream and/or are ONVIF compliant. There’s no need for the cameras to touch the internet. The cloud account is really only if you want remote access. For that convenience you’re using a third party server to route connection to your cameras. You have no idea what data they collect and what they do with it. Of course you _can_ see what traffic leaves your home network. If someone in [shadowy cabal] was routinely streaming feeds from your front yard that’d be pretty clear in your traffic data.
Assuming the router isn’t compromised too ofc.
Personally I believe my information is more likely to be abused by private entities like google, Facebook and amazon than be of use to Chairman Mao’s big rock candy mountain.


So I’m at the point in my smart home journey where I’m eyeing up my old fashioned wired intruder alarm - a ready installed network of door and motion sensors. It looks like integration into home assistant was going along nicely till the main guy decided to commercialise it and make konnected.io

Has anyone used esphome binary sensors reading from the standard pir and door sensors wired alarms use? I’m not sure it’s as easy as one wire and a ‘Schottky diode’ to convert the 12v signal to 5v.

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009
https://www.hackster.io/BuddyC/ir-controller-for-air-conditioner-5bd0a2

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009
Apart from using it to switch lights on and off I’m using mine to spy on my chickens using an esp32 camera board.

It’ll also be monitoring my smoker once the weather’s a bit better.

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

quote:

Ring products currently use Z-Wave, Echos use Zigbee, and Eero supports Thread.
That’s interesting.

I played with dog tracking using ble and HA. If you google ‘ble trilateration’ you’ll find plenty of info.

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

redeyes posted:

I don't expect any answers but I have this problem with my Hikvision setup. I have 4 cameras wired with CAT 6 into a UBNT network switch and then into a WIndows 10 pro server with iVMS4200. I have everything working, recording video 24/7. Not even using motion detection. My issue is at some random time the iVMS will just stop recording footage. No settings have changed and I can't tell anything has happened. Also, if I reboot this Win 10 server, it will stop recording. Again, all the settings are correct, pointing to the iVMS storage server. To get it back working, i have to go into iVMS and re-pick the storage server as the location to save footage and magically it starts working again.

Im at my witts end. I can't monitor this poo poo all the time and I need it to work.

HALP GOONS!

What about configuring a shared folder as a network HDD Location in the storage management of each camera?
Are you using SD cards in the cameras as well to see if it’s the cameras or the server having the issue? I’d guess the server, but better to be sure.

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009
If you do a fresh install onto your new card and copy over /config that should be all you need. That’s how I’ve upgraded the last few times.

Edit: when I say install i mean using an image.

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

sharkytm posted:

Some of the better Dahua cameras can do it. Don't stick them on the internet, but Blue Iris can receive their triggers (I think).

Hikvision can be firewalled and have pretty good smart event detection and notification options. They’re pricey tho.

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

Burden posted:

What's the best smart plug to turn off and on a window air conditioner remotely? I already can VPN into my home network if that helps.

In the future I'd like to hook it up so that if it gets above a certain outside temperature it would turn on and once it gets below a certain outside temperature turn off. I figure I could achieve this with Home Assistant and a spare raspberry pi 3B+ I have laying around. Thanks!

There’s a Shelly that has the option of a plug in temperature sensor - it’s integration with HA and Onboard UI is better than Tasmota In my opinion.

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Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

Motronic posted:

Oh interesting. I hadn't seen that one. Smart - plenty of people would be happy to get rid of their legacy interface/systems add a few sensors and keep the old ones.

There’s also this thing https://konnected.io/ which can use your old alarm sensors for home automation and notifications.

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