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Cross posting here from the home thread in DIY because I didn't realize we had a home automation thread! So I'm looking to replace my smoke/CO detectors. House was built in 1999, so it's not up to current code. I'd like to at least add some smoke detectors in the bedrooms. Not that it NEEDS to be up to code for an inspector, but because I think its a good idea. The question is: is there a code compliant smoke/CO detector that will integrate in to any generic home security system (that also has a battery powered version available)? The only one I've found that looks like it will work easily is the First Alert ZCOMBO, which to my understanding should integrate to at least Abode seamlessly (which is what I'm looking at, but I haven't committed to anything yet), and supposedly other alarm systems. Problem is it's battery only, no hard wire option available, so it won't really work for me as a replacement for the existing hard-wired detectors. I found this guy here: https://www.firstalert.com/product/wi-fi-photoelectric-smoke-and-carbon-monoxide-alarm-with-10-year-battery-hardwired/ Supposedly a smart device, but does it integrate nicely in to an alarm system? Or will I have to end up hacking around to make it talk? Basically I'm trying to do this as seamlessly as possible. Preferably all my smoke/CO detectors will be the same (or near enough) and they'll integrate nicely to an alarm system so I don't have 5 different apps I have to work with.
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Apr 3, 2020 12:31
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sharkytm posted:I've got two of those that talk to my Ring system. They were easy to pair and just worked. One data point, but it's something. Good to know. It's a bit pricey to replace all my smoke/CO detectors, but it seems like that's the cost I'd have to pay if I want this. Separate topic, anyone have any opinions on Abode? That's what I'm leaning towards for a security system, but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. Seems to tick all the boxes.
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Apr 3, 2020 15:52
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Motronic posted:I've had it for a year and a half. It's got its quirks, but it works fine. We'll probably get 1 keypad, but most of the operation would likely be by phone app. I dunno, I can't imagine NOT having a keypad just in case. sharkytm posted:I use them in a commercial shop. I have full sprinkler coverage, but no detectors. I've got one of these in the office, and one in my lab, in case there's some small fire. They immediately call the FD, as well as alerting me. I live 4 minutes away, so it's cheap insurance. I've got an aversion to Ring due to its ownership, but not really a rational one. Not thrilled with an Amazon product that knows when I'm home or not... but at the same time I have Google Home in several rooms and ecobee thermostats with remote sensors, sooo yeah. As far as monitoring is concerned, self monitoring is always an option, so there's that. But considering that $20 is still on the low end of other options I've seen, that seems reasonable.
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Apr 3, 2020 18:59
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So question on what may be best described as the architecture of a smart home. As background, I started with a couple Ecobee thermostats, then got some Philips Hue lights. Those are integrated to Google Home, and there are a few of those speakers around the house. I have a few basic automations, but it's actually half using the Philips Hue features and half using the Google features. Now we've added an Abode home security system. Now I'm trying to figure out how best to really integrate everything with each other without having to do a million things and potentially run in to conflicting automations or something. Is there a "master" to this system that I should use? Does it matter, or will it all work out fine (or maybe better) if I automate things individually or in different ways? Like if for example I want the lights to blink yellow when I set the alarm system to "home" or something, or maybe turn on when I disarm the alarm in the evening. Would I drive that from Abode? Or would I use Google? edit: I have IFTTT, but I only used it briefly to connect something via Stringify, which is no longer available so it doesn't do anything at the moment, and I haven't explored it much. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Apr 30, 2020 |
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Apr 30, 2020 20:29
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Thermopyle posted:Home Assistant would work for that, however it's a very featureful and powerful thingamajig so it might be too complicated for what you're wanting to do... So what's the best way to set this up? I've never used a raspberry pi before, so just go snag one of those and let 'er rip? I'm not afraid of complication, I just have no idea how to navigate what seems to be the wild west that is home automation products. Seems like everyone and everything has their own thing that may or may not play well with others, and I can't really tell how to take full advantage of all the stuff I have. So if the price of making everything work is having to sit down and figure it out, then it is what it is.
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May 1, 2020 13:18
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Deceptive Thinker posted:They have a pretty good guide to getting started: Yeah I basically already said gently caress it and ordered the 4gb Pi 4 kit from SparkFun, so there's that. It seems like a no-brainer the more I look at it. Is there an Android app or other slick way to interface with it via phone/tablet? Or would I need to run it from a local webpage interface or something? edit: that is to say, is there a way to create a quick-access panel with buttons/displays? I understand the majority of the setup and writing automations would be done on a PC. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 15:12 on May 1, 2020 |
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May 1, 2020 15:02
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Deceptive Thinker posted:Yes there's an android and iphone app Awesome, thanks. Kind of on the subject, but is geofencing any good these days? When I tried it years ago for basic phone automation stuff (like using Tasker to turn my phone to silent when I was at work) it was wildly unreliable. I've read that Abode's geofencing is similarly unreliable, so I'm still not sold on it. Is there a trick to it, or is it just inherently unreliable?
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May 1, 2020 15:25
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So I installed HA a bit ago. Trying to figure out if I set things up right/wrong. I went through and set everything up in what seemed like the easiest way, which was NOT using Homekit (for reasons I don't remember, made sense at the time). In particular, Ecobee, Abode, and Philips Hue. What I understand, though, is that these use the cloud control like a phone would. So if my internet goes down, so does my HA control. In reading further, it sounds like this may not be the worst, because getting good HA control for these particular systems actually relies on the cloud APIs to expose features... without that, control is severely limited. Is that correct? Should I leave things as-is, or should I go through and try to get control as local as possible?
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Jul 2, 2020 13:05
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https://www.home-assistant.io/ It's free, and has a companion android app (iphone too maybe?), but it's local control only. There's a cloud option for like $5/mo if you want remote control. I've been running it for like 2 months now and I love it. Great centralized control for everything, and it integrates well with most major smart home devices. There is a Harmony integration, but I haven't used it because I haven't used my harmony since I got a new smart TV a few years back. Downside is it has to run on a server or something. A raspberry pi works as well and is what I'm running it on. They literally have an image that you burn to an SD card and just pop it in and go. There's other ways to set it up but that's by far the easiest that I've seen. Helps to have a programming background, though. There's a GUI to design automations, but I found it to be kinda hokey and limiting. But I have a programming background, so I just do everything that way because it feels WAY more natural to me. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jul 23, 2020 |
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Jul 23, 2020 22:33
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Is Node RED just a GUI that writes YAML? Or is it its own thing? I honestly like the text interface because I'm used to that sort of thing, but it certainly has a learning curve and it's not obvious how to do certain things unless you google. I'd hate to lose it though. Also lol, I need to start checking updates before I push them. Turns out there was a change in the latest HA update that broke my Philips Hue integration. No wonder my lights didn't turn off last night (or on this morning!).
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Jul 24, 2020 12:13
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Anyone know if IFTTT would work as a bridge between Alexa and HA? I don't know, I'm asking. It'd be kinda hokey since it's an extra layer, but if it's possible then you'd have alexa control without paying $5/mo.
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Jul 24, 2020 19:12
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Hey so on the HA chat: I've been wanting to make slick/fancy GUIs so that I can load it to a tablet that guests can use to not gently caress up all my lights by using the wall switches. My understanding is that I want to have HACS installed if I want any hope of it looking pretty. Which I do. So it says that I have to transfer the files to HA via SSH. I haven't used putty in ages and I'm utterly lost in setting up the connection. Anyone have a step-by-step guide somewhere? or is there a better way to transfer files that I'm missing? edit: also it seems like I CAN upload files via the file editor add-on, but it only does 1 file at a time DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Jul 24, 2020 |
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Jul 24, 2020 21:42
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Subjunctive posted:Install the Samba add-on, IMO. I was just looking at that. Is that all it takes? Seems too easy.
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Jul 24, 2020 22:29
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I'll be honest, my experience with Harmony is that it's sketchy at best. Used to use it before we got a smart TV and sling. The main issue is that it's core function is based on assumptions. It has zero feedback; it just blasts IR commands out and has to assume it works. If the timing is off, or if the command isn't received, then everything is out of sync and you have to manually futz with things to get them back in line with what Harmony thinks is going on. I guess what I'm saying is that if you're using HA, then view Harmony as a temporary solution. HA can do a lot, but I think ultimately Harmony is going to be the limiting factor here. edit: lol same time post HA is going to be awesome long term, especially if you have other smart home stuff. Keep at it and keep learning, the more you learn the more you'll want to use it.
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Jul 31, 2020 22:57
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LastInLine posted:LOL the old way was great. Did the power go off for a minute at 3 in the morning? Here's twenty lightbulbs at 100% brightness, hope you like turning all of these off one by one! I guess they couldn't find a way to punch you in the dick at the same time. Yeah, I'm glad they finally added a way to change that. We have occasional overnight power blips here, and nothing is worse than waking up after one to full-bright lights everywhere. Oh wait, there IS something worse: the old alarm system would start beeping when it was running on battery power. So if the lights didn't wake you up, the beeping would. But that's neither here nor there... I think the idea is that they default out of the box as a "light bulb." Turn power on, it goes to a default color/brightness. Turn power off, it turns off. Switch on and off as required. Also helps with guests who don't know the smart system, so they aren't locked out because they don't have a phone/tablet. But the instant you start adding automatons/etc., this is way more annoying than anything. Anyhow, here is the solution that I have yet to implement: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Aurora-Dimmer-Philips-Z3-1BRL-WH-L0/dp/B07RJ14FBS/ Clips over the switch, so it prevents guests from loving around with things. Right now I just have a couple of the stick-on wall plates, but I'd really like to get these things.
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Aug 26, 2020 12:50
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FCKGW posted:I just set up my hallway light to turn on whenever I walk by my thermostat and I feel like a GOD now Speaking of... Is there any way around the time delay built in to the Ecobee sensors? I tried to do something like this, but there's such a heavy filter on all the Ecobee occupancy sensors that it doesn't work well at all. I'm using HomeAssistant. I can access all the sensors, but they don't turn on for a bit, and when they do they stay on for like 30 minutes minimum. I understand why since they're meant to control the HVAC, but it's annoying that the filter is on the sensor itself and isn't processed elsewhere on the thermostat. edit: I should clarify, I'm accessing the sensors via the HomeAssistant Ecobee integration. So I'm not talking to the sensors directly... not sure if that makes a difference.
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Sep 23, 2020 12:47
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Anyone have a recommendation for a doorbell camera? We have an Abode setup and their camera has been "coming soon" for what seems like forever. I'd like to avoid the Ring or Nest or any others that are happy to give away the video to anyone who asks, if such a thing can even be avoided these days. Integration with Abode would be preferred, but I'm also running Home Assistant so I can work through that too.
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Oct 15, 2020 16:15
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Ubiquiti stuff Ah gently caress me, THAT'S the name of it! When I was asking about doorbell cameras earlier, I was wondering if this company made them, but I couldn't for the life of me remember the name. https://store.ui.com/collections/unifi-protect/products/uvc-g4-doorbell Anyone have experience with this? My understanding is that their cameras are generally good and, more importantly, secure. The doorbell would be step 1 for video for our house, with other cameras coming later on.
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Oct 20, 2020 13:21
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SpaceCadetBob posted:Linus tech just did a review of this and it seemed pretty awesome to me. Gotta be willing to fork over the bucks though to capture your own video. Its worth watching the youtube on it jf you might be interested. Yeah, I noticed the up-front price. Long term I'm looking for a whole-house exterior camera system with local storage, so this is a good start, but I'm definitely balking at the cost. edit: but it does tick all the boxes of secure, quality, and presumably doesn't sell my video to anyone who asks.
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Oct 21, 2020 00:07
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Bioshuffle posted:I'm looking for a door bell video camera system that doesn't require a subscription, and the Eufy doorbell seems to fit the bill. Oddly though, the camera has local storage of 4GB, and it can't be expanded. I think the two main market demands are: 1) Remote viewing/two-way comms so you can tell people to piss off when you're not home 2) Video storage without investing in a local server At least, this is what the current options lead me to believe. Both of these require cloud services, so it's hard to do without charging people for it. Incidentally, I JUST got an e-mail today from Abode saying their outdoor camera is finally available for pre-order: https://goabode.com/security-devices/security-cameras/outdoor-smart-cam Tempting, since I already use Abode. Cheaper than the Ubiquiti, for sure. Only real hang-up for me is that there's no button. It uses motion sensing alone to sound the chime.
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Oct 21, 2020 19:13
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Bioshuffle posted:Oh dear. Unless they've perfected zone detection, that sounds like a terrible terrible time. Yeah, from their FAQ: https://help.goabode.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038544951-Outdoor-Smart-Camera-FAQ posted:How does this trigger my doorbell chime without a button? Still tempted, but only because I already use Abode. Their other motion sensors have ways to dial down the sensitivity, so maybe. I mean, video recognition has come a long way in the last few years so there's a chance, but if this thing chimed every time someone walked by I'd throw it in the trash pretty quick.
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Oct 22, 2020 15:11
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I'm looking for a smart I have other roundabout means to detect a general power failure, but one issue is that the circuit the ONT is on is my garage/outdoor GFCI circuit, so it's definitely possible for something to take out just that circuit, and I wouldn't know until the UPS ran out. Also second question: what kind of bridge would I need to talk to said smart DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Nov 30, 2020 |
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Nov 30, 2020 14:30
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The Electronaut posted:I’m guessing their ONT is away from the rest of their networking kit. Yup, there's the problem. It'd be WAY easier if I could just plug in to the UPS feedback, but that's a no-go here. The ONT is in the garage, and the modem/router/etc. are in the laundry room upstairs. And I guess I should clarify that I'm looking for a smart outlet, not a switch. Not sure why I wrote that!
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Nov 30, 2020 16:42
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Motronic posted:I dunno about what you want to read this with, as I'm using home assistant, but these Neos that I bring up regularly work fine for that: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DD7KL3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. You get volts plus amp/wattage draw. Several people on the HA forums have set them up for all kinds of things like "when the washer is done" (wattage back down to almost 0), etc. That'd be perfect, voltage is all I'd need to check to determine if power is on or not. Motronic posted:I'm not clear just how much 3rd party support Abode has these days - I have an Abode system but it's only being used for burg and fire. I should specify that I'm using HA running on a Pi. My understanding is that Abode can talk to z-wave and zigbee devices, but I don't use Abode to automate anything else. It's the only bridge I have, so I guess what I'd do is connect the plug to Abode, which should theoretically expose it to HA, where I can control it. But that sounds horribly inefficient, so I'm wondering if that's even workable or if I should buy a bridge (and if so, which bridge to buy). On the subject of smart outlets, anyone have recommendations for an outdoor-rated version? It'd be nice to move away from a mechanical timer for Christmas lights, or some cruddy digital one that takes a million button presses to punch in a schedule.
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Nov 30, 2020 17:54
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Motronic posted:Oh yeah, don't do that. Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X0AWA6E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1  does NOT work with the Pi 4 according to reviews.Although there seems to be a Gen5+ that DOES work, as of like 2 months ago, but it's listed as "currently unavailable" on Amazon. But re-reading your link, it claims Pi 4 compatibility, so now I'm confused... Motronic posted:I use the very same ones, in an in use cover. They've been fine for 2 seasons. I don't see how that's possible! I just swapped both my exterior outlets for proper in-use boxes last weekend, and they barely fit my extension cord plugs. Adding an inch will definitely keep the cover from closing.
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Nov 30, 2020 21:06
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Motronic posted:Different in use covers I suppose, maybe hinged differently. I can't close them all the way, but the outlet remain covered from above. Probably, I just grabbed the first ones I saw at Lowe's, the big ugly bubble looking ones. Doesn't help that all mine are horizontal, so it's a tough bend to get out the bottom hole. But even if I cheated and went out the side hole I still wouldn't even get anywhere close to closing the cover with anything other than the cord. Kalman posted:Iirc it works fine on a Pi4 if you run it off a USB 2.0 hub - the USB implementation does some weird non-compliant things that make USB3 controllers refuse to accept it. Interesting, I'll have to look in to that, thanks! I'm pretty sure I have a USB 2.0 hub laying around somewhere that isn't being used...
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Nov 30, 2020 21:52
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wolrah posted:Plug the ONT's UPS in to a Pi with WiFi and install NUT on it then. Unfortunately the ONT is in the garage and the Pi/everything else is in a closet inside. That'd be way too easy. wolrah posted:I wouldn't expect a smart outlet to be able to report power loss, it'll just disappear from whatever network it's on. Yeah, that's certainly a problem. I guess I was thinking that it might have enough capacitor power to report the 0V status, or maybe that the default "not connected" value would be 0 or something. A quick search though shows that HA SHOULD be able to report "unavailable" status from a device. So ultimately I'm not triggering automations from this, just a notification, so assuming that "unavailable = no power" is good enough for me. That said, I'll start poking around to see if I can trigger a relay or something to a sensor that would be powered by the UPS.
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Dec 1, 2020 01:21
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Motronic posted:While this sounds great on paper, HA actually reporting a zwave device as offline takes quite a while in my experience. Like minutes, or hours? With the UPS, minutes would be OK, but hours probably not. Well, the ONT is the only thing on that UPS, so hours might actually be OK....
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Dec 1, 2020 03:24
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wolrah posted:Does your WiFi not reach the garage? Pis are cheap and almost all of them have WiFi now. Just get another one and use that. It doesn't need a high quality signal. It almost certainly would, but I just didn't consider that solution. I guess I didn't think a Pi would be cheap enough to justify such a simple task... seems way overkill, but looking at prices it might make the most sense. Would it hold up in a garage? I'm in NC, so it'll see probably 20-30F in winter up to 90-100F in the summer.
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Dec 2, 2020 02:35
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ffffff back up your configurations, folks. Not sure what happened, but my SD card went corrupt on my Home Assistant Pi. Can't write a new image to it, can't even format it. Oh well, I had all my stuff written in YAML, now this will force me to give Node Red a try or something. Then I will back it up somewhere safe...
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Dec 26, 2020 21:45
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azurite posted:SD cards are not very durable flash. They'll poo poo the bed eventually, even sooner if you don't limit your recorder settings. For a restorable config, you should periodically make a tarball of everything under /config and copy it somewhere safe. I guess makes sense, what with the whole finite write cycles for solid state. Is there a way around this? I don't relish the thought of feeding this a SD card every 6 months. Or is a higher quality SD card going to last longer? I was using the SD card that came with the SparkFun Pi 4 kit, just ordered one of these as a replacement: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G3GMRYF/ Is SSD a viable option here? If so, follow-up: can this be used as NAS, or is that inefficient?
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Dec 27, 2020 01:44
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Finally got my network "closet" UPS added to HomeAssistant: Took me forever to do once I decided I wanted it. Turns out at some point when shuffling things around I tossed the proprietary cable for the UPS (USB to RJ50), and for some reason I couldn't find a cheap/available replacement. Eventually dug up the cable pinout and ordered a RJ50 cable plus a solder USB-A plug from Digikey. Amazingly, despite my awful soldering skills, it all worked the first time. Next project is to get my fiber ONT UPS set up. That's a bit trickier, since it's in the garage and on its own. Based on previous advice from this thread, the plan is to get a RPI and use NUT. I figured while I'm at it I can put a temp/humidity sensor on it and get some climate data from the garage as well. Mainly need the UPS data, though. That circuit is a GFI that tends to occasionally trip for no reason (I think I found and fixed the issue, but not 100% sure). There's also a fridge on that circuit, so it'd be awful nice to know that it's tripped BEFORE the ONT dies.
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Jan 29, 2021 04:21
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fletcher posted:My home network is all Unifi so I've been looking at the Unifi Protect stuff. Plan would be to replace my Cloud Key Gen 2 & USG with a UDM Pro and use that as the DVR. Anybody else using the Unifi cameras? Is Ubiquiti still actively developing that stuff? Any major cons to be aware of? I too would like to know the answer to this. Been eyeing this as a security camera solution, with long term plans to upgrade the network. But it's a big up front price tag so I've been holding off.
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Mar 5, 2021 01:43
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hey guys stay the gently caress away from live wires tia
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Mar 23, 2021 11:54
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Any recommendations for garage door sensors/remote control? Without changing the whole thing, that is. We have abode for our security system, and I know there's a device they claim integrates well to that, and I've seen how you can also half-rear end position detection with a hinge and a standard sensor. But we also have Home Assistant so we can use just about anything with the caveat being the only bridges we have are abode and Philips Hue. That said, I'm open to adding a 3rd party bridge if necessary. Don't NEED it for security, just for monitoring and being able to fix it in case we forget to close it at some point.
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Apr 9, 2021 15:40
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So garage door chat: Here's what abode lists on their site as "compatible" with their system: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M75TEIU Looks like that's the old version. Here's the manufacturer's website: https://www.gocontrol.com/detail.php?productId=4 And an amazon link for the current generation: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-GD00Z-8-GC-Z-Wave-Security-Black/dp/B085LKPHK6/ In the box is a controller and remote tilt sensor. Looks like the open/close just wires to the opener's button terminals (I imagine it's a dry contact, so wiring in parallel with the existing hard-wired button is fine in most cases). Anyone use this before? DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Apr 9, 2021 |
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Apr 9, 2021 18:45
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I'm running it on a Pi 4 and it's good enough for my purposes. I can see how putting it on a real computer would be way better, but that's for another day. I don't have a frame of reference so I couldn't really say how bad it is. If you use a Pi just don't do what I did and assume the SD card will last forever. It won't... at all. Make periodic images or snapshots and store them remotely so you can restore quickly and not have to reconfigure every goddamn thing from scratch (there's ways to automate that, but I haven't done it yet). Booting from a USB SSD is possible, but last I read it's still kinda sketchy to configure.
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Apr 23, 2021 01:37
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We just got that about 2 months ago (they had a mother's day sale so we bought it in a combo with the s9+, not regretting it yet). Been mopping maybe 1x/week on the hardwoods and it does a good job... better than we do, at least. We've used about 5oz of fluid so far to mop on the order of 1,100 sq ft (still has half a tank left, so that'd probably get us another 200 sq ft). This is using the default spray setting, you can use more or less cleaner optionally. You don't have to use cleaner, you can use water only, but they're very specific in that you must use THEIR cleaner... apparently other cleaners, even stuff like Bona, will eat at the seals, which causes a leak and will in fact damage the internals. This is per reddit, so take it with a grain of salt, but it sounds like their warranty techs know how to figure out if you used an unauthorized cleaner. Mopping pads are theoretically use-and-toss, but they sell cloth reusable pads that are machine washable (air dry). Only major gripe so far is that it has to make itself a different map. Ours mapped things slightly askew for some reason, so it runs at a slight angle to the walls. It doesn't share data with the existing robots, so you need to send it out on its own mapping runs. That's kind of a function of its abilities... rugs and thresholds cause it grief that the vacuum can normally navigate without issue, so it needs its own map to avoid those. It can get over some thresholds, especially if you tell it where they are on the map, but honestly it's a good thing that it can't get on to low rugs so you don't need to program it to avoid mopping them.
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Jun 21, 2021 16:38
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Maybe this helps: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/easiest-way-to-trigger-an-automation-with-one-tap-from-lovelace/108564 Alternatively, using the device's "ON" state as your trigger might work? Lovelace should already have a toggle switch for the plug, so I think you could just make an automation using "outlet = on" as the trigger and then for the actions you'd set a 60 minute delay and then turn the pump off. Here's something to that effect: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/turn-on-rf-outlet-for-one-hour-help-please/29126/3 code:That said, IMO use a sump pump float switch as a backup. I've had issues with delay timers in automations not following through and turning things off properly. A sump pump float switch should cut off power to the pump once it gets low, so at minimum you won't trash the pump because HA poo poo the bed. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Jun 23, 2021 |
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Jun 23, 2021 12:49
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An emergency shut off sensor is definitely your best interest. If you don't have 60 minutes worth of water in the barrel, you're going to run the pump dry. One day in the future the barrel inlet will get clogged, or you'll forget to disable the automation during a drought or something. Sump pump float switches are cheap and easily available and specifically designed to switch motor loads. As long as your rain barrel has a big enough diameter, it should be ideal. Here's a random option from googling: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Piggy-Back-Float-Switch-for-Sump-and-Sewage-Pumps-EBFSWPB/205618058 And the manual: https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/c4/c49f88c4-159b-4636-b13d-a9ba0ff8a875.pdf Just about anything from your local LowesDepot should work. Only issue is you won't get feedback from it so you won't really know the true status, but IMO it's most useful as a hardwired failsafe. Maybe if your smart plug has current sensing you can check if the pump actually turned on? Otherwise you'd need to buy a level sensor (I think SparkFun has cheap capacitive liquid level sensors) and then somehow tie it back to HA. edit: you could probably also wire the float switch separately as a physical input to something, rather than being inline with the pump. So you'd use it now as a hardwired shutoff, and once you find a way to wire a switch back to HA you can just use it in that capacity. edit again: one caveat I just thought of... the style of float switch I linked above is assuming that the pump starts when it floats. So it's not necessarily designed to stay in the up position for extended periods of time. Worse, if you tether it such that it shuts the pump off when the water is low, it might end up staying submerged for most of its life. Not sure it's going to be happy about that... DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Jun 23, 2021 |
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Jun 23, 2021 14:26
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