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I love how you are swapping the interior panels but don't give a single gently caress that the outside of the door is, you know, entirely the wrong color  Beaters are awesome. PS: check row52.com before going to picknpull yards. They list all their poo poo on there, too. All 3 of the ones near me are like 40 miles away so it's real nice to be able to check if they have anything I'm interested in before I drive out.
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May 30, 2014 00:47
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Honda-Tech seems to have some very smart people on it, you just have to wade through a veritable galaxy of poo poo to get to them. For example anything CaliforniaDad posts seems pretty solid.
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Jun 3, 2014 23:46
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Rhyno posted:So Advance and Autozone are useless and my Google searches have been fruitless. I need these hahahaha, you are looking at that manifold and live in Indiana (rust belt!) and think those studs are gonna unscrew  I wish I was that much of an optimist. Sorry dude, you're gonna end up drilling those fuckers out and it probably isn't going to be pretty. Start by heating the motherfuck out of the flange, NOT the stud, then jam candle wax into the spot where the threads meet the flange. Repeat several times. Then heat the flange as hot as you possibly can and try twisting the stud out. It's not going to go well (I'd almost bet on it, and I'm not a betting man), but it's worth a try.
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Jun 5, 2014 00:01
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Rhyno posted:I already got one out? There's only one still stuck in and its not bent. Worst case I reuse it. Holy poo poo, what? Can I bring all my cars to you for exhaust work?
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Jun 5, 2014 00:51
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My vehicles accept the same currency (as do yours, it seems), so you'd only be borrowing it for a while.
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Jun 5, 2014 02:10
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Sounds like time to go roll around your old neighborhood dropping from 1/4 to no throttle abruptly and setting all those fuckheads car alarms off with the popping and crackling. You know you want to.
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Jun 7, 2014 01:10
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So they already started rusting the hood for you. Finish the job. If you're going to ruin it, really, really RUIN it.
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Jun 9, 2014 17:58
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Hate to break it to you but that looks like "honda rot" based on location, it comes from badly designed drainage and rots through from the inside. If you don't give a poo poo that it will rot worse and fall out again in a year or two, ignore this and continue with your plan.
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Jun 10, 2014 09:10
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Similar to the H O N D A on the windshield you definitely need a 3 foot tall H logo in the back window. And a huge pink/orange anodized recovery point.
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Jun 14, 2014 16:29
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If you can buy a parts kit to do the ECU mods (or find a walkthrough that includes a parts list), feel free to mail it plus an ECU to me and I will solder it up after work some evening. Through hole work is cake, I can do it basically in my sleep. I can do SMT work down to a 0.5mm pin pitch too, it just requires being awake.
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Jun 15, 2014 18:14
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Oh yeah, that poo poo is cake. That is like five or ten minutes of soldering at most, even easier than I expected.
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Jun 16, 2014 00:52
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You probably should already be there if you want there to be anything left when you get to it. poo poo like that is stripped within hours or days, at least around here. It's like watching someone toss a dead animal into a school of piranhas.
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Jun 18, 2014 21:32
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I plan to make one should that time ever come. Metalwork is fun, if not easy. Not a fan of the rose cartel either, had plans to make something awesome instead and then the power steering pump poo poo out on the jeep right when I was going to work on it 
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Jun 28, 2014 14:39
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As of last night your ECU is done, I was hoping to get it out in the mail at lunch today but simply ran out of time. Will be going out tomorrow.
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Jul 8, 2014 22:47
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Paging a5h Get the ECU back yet? I left the tracking slip at work by accident but iirc it should be there by Tuesday or so at the latest. If usps isn't slacking, it should already be there.
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Jul 13, 2014 21:14
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WTF, I addressed it directly to you to prevent that. Oh well, check the pins aren't bent in the connectors, that is about all they could do to it without a screwdriver. I'll send you my info on facebook. My usual policy on doing stuff for friends is I don't even bother telling someone how to pay me until it is back in their hands.
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Jul 14, 2014 02:19
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If it's in some goofy recess in the manifold, use a dremel to cut the head off, or to put a notch in one of the flats and then spin it out with a chisel. It'll probably spin right out once it doesn't have a ton of preload on it. PS: I think this was clear, but just making sure - I just installed the mods in that ECU, I didn't change the firmware. Mostly because I don't have any of the tools or knowledge to do so, but also because I have no idea what exactly you would want to change. Changing the firmware out is entirely something you'd need to ask honda whisperer to post about or something, I haven't the first clue how to do so unless someone gives me a hex file or other type of ROM image and tells me what size EPROM to use; iirc it was a 27C256 32kbyte standard TTL compatible EPROM. Which is too bad, because I literally have an entire case of brand new 27C512 64kbyte EPROMs sitting on the shelf at home. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 01:23
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I have a number of burners for em, yeah. Sadly all my computers at home are broken right now and I'm too busy to fix em. If I had realized that that was A Thing I would have offered to either build or install one of those adapters as well, the pinout of the two chips is like 99% compatible so just a few jumpers or SPDT/DPDT switches, two 256 size sockets or one 512 size socket, one 256 size pin header, and one fairly simple small PCB design should make it work. I haven't screwed around with that stuff in a while but I recall it being pretty simple.
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Jul 23, 2014 16:38
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You are going to end up with a gifted-to-you PT Cruiser. I wouldn't ask for a specific vehicle, but make sure you have veto power. Make it clear that your veto is NOT based on price, but rather on quality and maintainability of the chosen vehicle, too.
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Jul 24, 2014 23:15
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A trick Slow is Fast taught me a few weeks ago when we built my motor - use a C clamp or vise grips and a rag to clamp the belt onto the teeth in the right spot. Count teeth to the next spot you need to index, snake the belt through the pulleys to it, clamp it onto that pulley too. Repeat until done.
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Aug 11, 2014 21:51
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Either re-anneal the old ones with a blowtorch or buy new ones. They are like a dollar and prevent car-be-que/supercar behavior, so I would get new ones.
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Aug 12, 2014 13:01
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Go to the dealer. They won't be much, and you really don't want to pull ghetto poo poo on a fuel system. If it leaks and hits the wrong thing, you get a BBQed car...
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Aug 13, 2014 13:32
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I have never ever seen a coolant leak cause a high idle, ever.
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Aug 14, 2014 13:21
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Dumb question, why can't you disconnect the source of coolant that's going to the TB, then block that off instead or eliminate it by using a hose without the tee in it or something? Either the TB had coolant going through it originally and you need to hook up the other half of the plumbing, or it didn't and somehow you have half the plumbing from the new setup supplying coolant but not taking it away. Or it's coming through a coolant passage in the intake manifold from the head to the TB I guess but that's unlikely.
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Aug 14, 2014 16:21
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mafoose posted:I would leave the brass one in there. It is more corrosion proof and won't have a galvanic reaction with the aluminum like a steel fitting would. :eyebrow: That seems odd... yeah, actually steel and iron are closer to aluminum than brasses are. Brasses are far more noble. You'd want zinc or magnesium sacrificial anodes to protect aluminum parts. The reason brass fittings go well with aluminum is that brass doesn't really corrode much once it gets a protective oxide film going, so it's not going to swell up with oxide layers and seize in place. Iron loves to do that, and so does aluminum.
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Oct 15, 2014 15:27
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They only made 112821 MJs total (less than I thought), and only 952 were actually produced in 1992. Of course, most 92 models were produced in 91, but AFAIK they are still the rarest year. Aside from 1993s, that is... there is a single 1993 prototype that was produced in Venezuela (yes, it has an official VIN and everything) and sent to Africa to gauge interest right before the whole MJ line was killed. It's (AFAIK) in a british car collection. Actual production numbers (production years, not model years)1985: 29,245 1986: 33,386 1987: 43,070 1988: 43,718 1989: 25,311 1990: 9,576 1991: 5,188 1992: 952 Note: if you add those up, it adds up to 190k, so somewhere, these numbers are definitely fucky. It's likely because the first time anyone got ahold of production numbers, it was actually only the numbers for 4x4 models, and a LOT of 4x2 models were sold, and no enthusiast website seems to distinguish between the two. And there aren't many other sorts of websites dedicated to the MJ these days. Regardless, it's unlikely that there were ever more than about 10-12k 1992 models in existence.
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Nov 10, 2014 21:25
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hahaha, yeah, ask me about construction budgets and schedules. I thought I'd be done with my house by christmas 2010.   
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Dec 22, 2014 16:43
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Consider a propane heater, just get one with a ducted exhaust so you aren't pumping the shop full of water vapor. CO2, and CO while trying to paint.
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Jan 13, 2015 17:14
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Loctite power grab is good double face tape. So good it will likely rip paint off if you try and remove the trim afterwards, so make sure it goes in the right spot.
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Mar 28, 2015 21:30
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