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Nope. not retarded. that'll be so much better than the rats nest they came with. props to you for throwing the coin down for that module. E: lotta guys throw these at old bikes.... so there might be a second opportunity for your bike too.
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Feb 18, 2015 06:55
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I've been thinking about it for the Enfield, but as a whole I think $400 for a part for the Enfield would be better spent towards a new motorcycle. Right now the Enfield is in a "ride it until the axles fall off, then use coat hangers as new axles, then ride it until those fall off, too" state. I'm not keen on spending too much money on a 15-17 hp oil-burner as I was three years ago. But I won't sell it, because I'm sure the moment I do I'll get super-strong nostalgia and regret. Maybe I should change its name from "Paint-shaker" to "Catch-22".
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Feb 18, 2015 06:59
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Its also kind of fitting to have dodgy rear end electrics on it. 
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Feb 18, 2015 07:02
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Geirskogul posted:Update to keep out of archives: For new page. I'm actually really excited. Wiring is kind of a zen moment for me. I can count the day I did the Enfield (while listening to NPR, outside, in midsummer Idaho) as one of the top-10 calming days of my life. Doesn't change the fact that they're still dodgy, because back then I was still convinced that soldering was the way to do vehicle electrics  I mean, soldering is just fine if done properly, but back in 2009 I was (as I still am) an idiot. Strain relief what now?I'll keep the Enfield around as the strangely-reliable vintage backup ride, as it has never really left me stranded, aside from that one time I didn't secure the battery down and it made a bid for freedom while on the highway.
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Feb 18, 2015 07:15
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So what is it? I'm always open to new ideas for fixing 50 year old wiring. I have a full replacement harness for mine and 8 fuse block from a later, but if there's a better way I'm all ears.
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Feb 18, 2015 17:15
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I'm on mobile, but Google Motogadget m-unit.
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Feb 18, 2015 18:23
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Yeah all I could tell from that picture was that it was a solid-state motorcycle fuse/relay box because I just replaced one. I would expect that someone's made a cheaper version of this, probably one of the powersports standalone ECU manufacturers ( Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Feb 18, 2015 |
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Feb 18, 2015 19:16
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PDM60: Six circuits, 60 amps max, mainly an accessory and light distribution box, $200 PowerHub2: Six circuits,15 amps each (90A total) power distribution box only, $120 Motogadget M-unit: 8 circuits, 60 amps total (but 10 amps each), $300 The thing I like about the m-unit is it's designed more as a total replacement, and has fancy-rear end features like flashing brake lights, an alarm, and automatic LED sensing light circuits so I can get rid of load resistors. I don't like that I've never seen one installed in a car, but I think it fits the bill for the simplified wiring of the Beetle. And it'll be nicer than that damned fuse panel that I keep kicking. Also, the first pieces of my 15-plate mesa-style oil cooler have just arrived 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Feb 18, 2015 |
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Feb 18, 2015 19:58
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Oh god how did this get here I am not good with car Now I just have to figure out where to put it  Edit: looks like most people put it on the driver's side, next to the starter on the front of the rear firewall, above the cv axle. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Feb 18, 2015 |
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Feb 18, 2015 23:05
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Man that's a huge oil cooler. ACVWs get all the fun toys  How much is that supposed to knock off, say, idling in stop and go traffic engine temperatures?
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Feb 19, 2015 00:22
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Idling and stop-and-go traffic, I don't usually (according to my VDO gauge, and we all know how VDO can be) go higher than 200-210, but I installed the gauge towards the end of last summer so I don't know if it was actually higher during peak oven. On the freeway it usually stays under 220 if I don't go above 65, but the moment I hit 66+ it becomes a never-ending losing battle with the heat, where even if I drop it down to 55 the gauge never actually comes back down. Repeated trips to 70-75 make the oil temps shoot up very quickly into the 240-260 range, where I have to pull over and let it cool. I'm hoping the oil cooler, even without fan, will let me sustain 70-75. That horrible book ("Compleat Idiot's Guide") states that in a well-tuned bug it may be possible to cruise at 70-75, but I take everything I read in that with a grain of salt. For reference, the fan is a 7 incher. At least the additional oil capacity will delay the time it takes to reach those higher temps.
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Feb 19, 2015 00:28
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I always meant to do that to my Super. Having an oil filter and doing oil changes at a not-ridiculous interval would be wonderful. They're not really critical, but I loved having a cylinder head temp gauge in my car. Oil temps would change with RPM, but cylinder head temps change dramatically and quickly with load. It was always cool to see, and it's good information when it's 100 degrees out and you hit a hill even when you're only going 60 mph. It was completely unnecessary in a weekend car in Ohio, but it might be nice to have in AZ  e: and yeah, you should absolutely be able to sustain 75 with that gigantic cooler. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Feb 19, 2015 |
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Feb 19, 2015 02:00
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Put it inside. you know. for heat in the winter. E:  This was my 58'. It had a diverter to run inside, inside + roof, or roof only.
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Feb 19, 2015 02:01
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Chopped up ovals always make me a sad panda What size engine do you have in the car that oil temps are an issue at 65+ ? My mom's 1641 will cruise all day long at 75 with no heat issues back in Texas.
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Feb 19, 2015 16:39
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veedubfreak posted:Chopped up ovals always make me a sad panda it was hit pretty hard, nothing of real value was lost. A friend of mine bought it for like $200 in the 80s wrecked and converted it. I just ended up with it around 25 years later :v
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Feb 19, 2015 17:05
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veedubfreak posted:
Posts on thesamba make me believe that ACVW guys think 240 degrees for oil is okay. I prefer 180-200 max. It's a stock 1600dp (I think, it had an aftermarket non-doghouse), and has the valves adjusted 3k, but I'm getting hot on the freeway. I have a doghouse on it now, btw.
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Feb 19, 2015 17:36
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Motogadget arrives tomorrow. Something will be installed tomorrow! It's either that, or the oil cooler
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Mar 2, 2015 05:46
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Where did you get that cooler / what did it set you back? I need to put a transmission cooler on my WJ and I'm somewhat tempted to go with a fan-equipped unit.
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Mar 2, 2015 05:55
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I bought the cooler and the fan separately, but from similar sellers on ebay. I looked for a unit that was available on both ebay and amazon, and bought from a US seller in case I had any issues (I'm not anti-China - most of my poo poo is the cheapest from overseas, especially with board-level electronics - , but I wanted local support in case it arrived broken or something). Cooler, and and fan.. The fan says 80W but I measure about 65W with my power meter.
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Mar 2, 2015 05:59
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OF ALL DAYS TO RAIN IN PHOENIX
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Mar 2, 2015 22:37
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So, as long as this deployment paperwork goes through, it looks like I won't be able to do either the oil cooler or the M-Unit install before I leave (Monday, short fuse notice). So, today I spent time replacing the alternator base gaskets and fuel pump gasket. I've been having oil coat the top of the engine, primarily on the passenger side but also on the driver's side a little bit, and it looked like it was coming from where the alternator stand meets the engine case, but I'm not 100%. Oh well, gaskets are cheap, and I was curious if the previous owner had installed the oil deflector the correct way. Here's how it should be: No pictures because I was covered in oil and gunk, but he had installed it both backwards and upside-down. So, I installed a new one (they are crush gaskets) along with a very THIN coating of black RTV on the paper gaskets that go above and below it. I stress THIN, because the PO apparently thought that copper high-temp RTV was god's gift to man, and used it judiciously on everything in massive quantities. Also, little-by-little, I've been having problems with the car not idling after it warms up. A few times when driving home from work the car would die, or try-to-die, at stop lights and I'd have to heel-toe it to keep it alive. I installed this new carburetor towards the end of last summer when it was getting cooler, so this is the first warm weather it's really encountered. One solution posited on The Samba stated that the idle air jet, on the right-side of the carburetor underneath and forward of the choke coil, is oftentimes reefed down too tightly by the carburetor factory, and this combined with cheap metallurgy ruins the tip of the jet. There are a lot of success stories of people unscrewing the jet 1/8 to 1/4 turn and using some loctite or RTV to keep it from changing position. I can't remember the exact thread (it was one of those "fifth page of Google" results), but whoever suggested that should be given a loving medal. After doing that, there have been absolutely no problems with idling, and I can actually tune the idle speed and flat spot out using the fuel and air bleeder screws on the left side, whereas before it was kind of a crapshoot as to whether or not they actually did anything. Not all victories are without pain, however. When tightening down the fan shroud bolts (one left and one right, hold the fan shroud to the base), the cheese-grade bolt I used on the left side sheared its head off, and removal requires I take the entire fan shroud and alternator assembly back off. I kind of said "gently caress it," and used some of our PO's favorite, copper RTV, to create a quick gasket to keep it from rattling. I may say "double-gently caress-it," and just drill a hole next to the slot in the base and stick another bolt in there. I really, really don't have the time to take care of it right now, and the RTV combined with the secure alternator and bolt on the other side seems really stable.
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Mar 7, 2015 02:57
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Geirskogul posted:So, as long as this deployment paperwork goes through, it looks like I won't be able to do either the oil cooler or the M-Unit install before I leave (Monday, short fuse notice). So, today I spent time replacing the alternator base gaskets and fuel pump gasket. I've been having oil coat the top of the engine, primarily on the passenger side but also on the driver's side a little bit, and it looked like it was coming from where the alternator stand meets the engine case, but I'm not 100%. Oh well, gaskets are cheap, and I was curious if the previous owner had installed the oil deflector the correct way. Here's how it should be: nm. me reed guud. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Mar 7, 2015 |
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Mar 7, 2015 03:21
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I don't know if I want to actually close this thread, but there is a big break coming up. I won't be back until at least July, maybe October. Hopefully, when I get back, though, I will have enough scratch to start another project. It may involve a fly/drive depending on how the market in my area (phoenix/AZ in general) is when I get back, so keep your feelers out if you see anything notable. 
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Apr 8, 2015 00:23
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I need paint options I have nothing else to do down here.
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Apr 20, 2015 14:29
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Geirskogul posted:I need paint options  or 
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Apr 25, 2015 21:21
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Apr 26, 2015 18:09
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