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Sub Par
Jul 18, 2001


Dinosaur Gum
Just went to Vic Falls last week as part of a road trip around Southern Africa. It was incredible. Couldn't do the Devil's pool because of the season (high water) so can't report on that except to say that if it is your main goal, go during low season which iirc is Sept-Mar. Not sure so check that. That said, here's what we did:

We entered Zimbabwe over land from Botswana. This is expensive: something like $60 per person for the visa (USA here, check visa reqs and cost before travel) - cash only. Then we paid $55 for mandatory car insurance and then $55 more to "guarantee" it because the car was a rental. So $200+ for the two of us. We stayed at a campground in Victoria Falls and walked to the falls in the morning, maybe a 15 minute walk at a leisurely pace.

We didn't enter the park straight away, rather walked another 15 mins across the bridge to Zambia. Watched the falls from the bridge, ate at the café there, watched people do the bungee and swing. Was fun, I recommend it. From there you can walk to a few viewing points on the Zam side. We didn't because the high flow of water kicked up too much spray and given the wind conditions we wouldn't have been able to see the falls from Zam.

Entered the park ($30/person), stayed 3.5 hours. We walked the length of the thing (~2.5k) and then left. We also saw a group of elephants on the walkway to the falls from town, about 20feet away. Was amazing. During the walk you constantly feel the need to take a picture or render an oil painting, it is simply stunning. Not sure about low water season but we rented rain jackets for $3 from one of the guys outside the park (due to the spray) and it was money well-spent. Also met 3 people who had their cameras and/or phones crippled from trying to take picks and getting soaked from the spray, so be careful. At times you would swear you were in the middle of a freak thunderstorm.

Next day we did a sunset river cruise on the Zambezi river. There are like 50 boats doing this, they are 2-3 hours each and generally involve an open bar and passed hours d'oeuvres or light food and cost $45-90 per person depending on the niceness of the boat. There are also proper dinner cruises but we didn't do one. The cruise was awesome, only 9 of us on this huge boat, awesome staff, tons of booze, saw crocs, elephants, hippos, and several huge raptors of some species. We did the most expensive one in town, Zambezi Explorer, because we were celebrating something. It was $65 per person. If you use them, post here first so I can facilitate an intro with one of their staff who we met, named Bheki. Great guy.

We then left and drove to Johannesburg. Notes:

1) We did it on our own but There are a million tour operators who will pick you up in Cape Town, Joburg, or Windhoek (or Vic Falls and either just do stuff there or start a tour in VF and drop you in one of those cities) and take you to the falls and do everything for you. Met many people at our campsite on such tours, consensus was that Intrepid does it best. Not all of them are round trip so you could fly to Joburg, get on the tour, then they leave you in Vic Falls and you continue on your own or with another operator to the Great Migration.

2) Just stay in Vic falls, Zimbabwe. Better infrastructure, walk to the falls, etc. Visiting Zam is easy enough, just walk across the bridge. No passport needed if you stay on the bridge (eg to bungee jump or sightsee). Need your passport if you want to enter Zambia proper and view the falls. NOTE: If you enter Zambia and have your passport stamped you MUST get a yellow fever vaccine or you bay be denied entry to other countries. Get it at home or in South Africa. Must have it for 10 days before it becomes effective. Plan ahead.

3) Most places only took cash and the currency is USD or Euro, with the overwhelming preference being USD. ATMs dispense USD but come with plenty of 5s and 1s if possible because change is sometimes an issue. South African Rand and Namibian Dollars are also accepted but you will get unfavorable pricing. Credit card machines usually are mysteriously not working, so take signs saying "we take Visa!" with a brick of salt.

4) If you do a boat tour, book in town in person. They don't sell out and the prices are negotiable in person.

5) If congruent with your plans, I simply cannot recommend Namibia enough. It was absolutely amazing and one of my favorite places in the world.

6) If you enter Zimbabwe over land and plan to exit over land, you will need to specify which border crossing you will use to exit. If you are leaning this direction, let me know so I can give you some additional suggestions.

Finally, I know a fantastic AirBNB host in Joburg who has done the falls and the migration, was born in Zim and is all around amazing if you are interested.

Sub Par fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Jul 7, 2014

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Sub Par
Jul 18, 2001


Dinosaur Gum
The boat I was on had 9 people including my wife and me. By the end of it ẃe were all wasted and inviting each other to our hotels or various bars for food, more drinks, and world cup watching. I imagine most of the cruises are like that. The staff member I met, Bheki, invited us to his village to spend the next day and night with his family, which we took him up on, and had an awesome experience there.

Namibia is the poo poo, the scenery changes every 150k (drastically). Everyone is super nice and helpful, and it is the second least densely populated country in the world. Not sure what solo travel would be like, I was with my wife and we drove around in a pop-up camper and slept at campgrounds. There is a lot of adventurey-type stuff to do (ride ATV through the desert, hike a massive canyon, skydive, kite surf, that sort of thing) and lots of wildlife. May be kinda hot in Dec though. Anyway, our favorite places were Swakopmund, Fish River Canyon, and Sousousvlei.

Didn't price stuff on the Zambia side. Once we learned we couldn't do Devil's pool, we just liked the convenience of the Zim side. Our campground was in the area of $40 per night. Would be cheaper for you because they charge by the person and charged for our car/camper. They have tents with proper beds inside you can rent, and also little one bedroom cottages. Called Victoria Falls Rest Camp.

We are doing an RTW thing right now as well and Airbnb often so we can get access to a kitchen and save on food costs. Obviously in places where hostels are not an option or are expensive. May not be as worthwhile for a solo traveler but I will PM you the details.

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