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Leaky heater core and P.O. didn't want to deal with it? That's the usual reason for bypassing it.
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Jul 19, 2014 16:21
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Yeah, if you can live without a heater and it leaks, you bypass/block it rather than having to dig into a full dashboard-out nightmare.
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Jul 19, 2014 16:27
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Thanks guys. It's gonna stay bypassed. I rarely use it and it can get fixed before next winter.
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Jul 19, 2014 16:50
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Question for you guys. In my work taking all the hoses attached to the engine off to get it ready to come out I noticed the heater core was not hooked up to anything. It looks like it was bypassed. Is there any particular reason to do that? Yeah, it's probably leaking and the PO was too lazy to change it, looks like you're ordering a core. E:f,b.
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Jul 19, 2014 17:19
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On my Accord the AC evaporator had to be removed before the box that contains the heater core. Is the Civic like that? That might be something to plan around.
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Jul 20, 2014 07:01
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Gee, EJ civic? Bad heatercore? Enjoy: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2053155 My poor civic is still sitting off my driveway, slowly sinking into the gravel. I bought a house and basically didn't have time or inclination to work on it. It's been sitting since '08, and I've been half-heartedly trying to part it out. I hope your fix-it-up project goes well.
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Jul 20, 2014 07:35
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sharkytm posted:Gee, EJ civic? Bad heatercore? Well if you have any usefull parts still to sell let me know and I'll probably take em off your hands.
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Jul 20, 2014 21:19
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Alright guys, I'm stuck. I'm looking at the end of the shifter cable where its attached to the transmission. I think maybe I'm searching for the answer wrong or something. Here's a pic of what I'm looking at. How do I get that off?
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Jul 20, 2014 23:34
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I've found the answer but none of my wrenches or sockets fit the bolt. Guess I'll have to try the adjustable wrench.
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Jul 20, 2014 23:57
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Looks like somethings actually getting done now!
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Jul 22, 2014 01:06
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Looks like somethings actually getting done now! Good job dude. I got the head off mine tonight. Civic Progress all around!
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Jul 22, 2014 04:44
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Looks like somethings actually getting done now! Remove those heater core hoses while you have room. They somehow bond in place and are a nightmare to get off.
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Jul 22, 2014 05:33
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Got the Transmission out finally. Time to tackle that flywheel... 
Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Jul 23, 2014 |
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Jul 23, 2014 23:22
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The flywheel has me beat for the night. Rounded one bolt trying to get it out and tried a few others with no luck. Is there some trick to this?
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Jul 24, 2014 01:44
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buy the HF 1/2" electric impact and corresponding size socket. Then use a screwdriver to provide restance. step 2 ????? step 3 PROFIT!!!!
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Jul 24, 2014 01:48
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Yeah you're gonna want an impact for that.
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Jul 24, 2014 02:39
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It figures I'd get this far with hand tools and then need the big guns right near the end. At least the HF one isnt too expensive.
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Jul 24, 2014 02:47
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Remove spark plug, place cylinder at bottom dead center right before the compression stroke, feed in rope (as much as the cylinder will hold), turn crank til it bottoms out on rope, push motor on it's side so you can step on it. This will lock the crank so it won't spin. Using the correct socket, with a breaker bar, slip a jack handle over it and go to town. This is how I do it with one person and no impact.
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Jul 24, 2014 02:54
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mafoose posted:Remove spark plug, place cylinder at bottom dead center right before the compression stroke, feed in rope (as much as the cylinder will hold), turn crank til it bottoms out on rope, push motor on it's side so you can step on it. This will lock the crank so it won't spin. Yeah.....just get an impact.
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Jul 24, 2014 02:57
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I had to remove the crank pulley & flywheel bolts on the Protege's new motor with hand tools while hanging from an engine hoist (so bracing was difficult.) Yeah, I'm getting an impact before I ever do that again.
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Jul 24, 2014 04:26
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I take it you've never had to do an engine/flywheel/whatever swap that needed to be done, and it was after hours when you realized you needed that one tool to finish? Yea, you make it work.
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Jul 24, 2014 05:48
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Well, obviously, you do what you need to do in that case. But I wouldn't do it that way by choice.
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Jul 24, 2014 05:50
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I love this. It's my exact first car, d15b7 and all. I swapped in a D15B from hmotorsonline.com (which I just saw the site is exactly the same as it was 12 years ago) and that baby screamed in a 130hp Honda kind of way.
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Jul 24, 2014 06:34
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mafoose posted:Remove spark plug, place cylinder at bottom dead center right before the compression stroke, feed in rope (as much as the cylinder will hold), turn crank til it bottoms out on rope, push motor on it's side so you can step on it. This will lock the crank so it won't spin. I'm fairly certain this only works with engines currently in possession of their heads. Which OP took off already. E: gently caress. I guess that's what I get for reading both clapped out civic threads at the same time.
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Jul 24, 2014 17:57
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You do go counterclockwise on these flywheel bolts right? Cause they ain't budging with an impact driver.
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Jul 24, 2014 23:01
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If they have threadlock on them, heat will help break it down. Shouldn't stop you getting them off, though. They shouldn't be that tight.
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Jul 24, 2014 23:26
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InitialDave posted:If they have threadlock on them, heat will help break it down. The impact gun struggled to get em loose. One is rounded off now though. Gonna have to do some dremel work or something on it. 
Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jul 24, 2014 |
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Jul 24, 2014 23:40
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12 point bolts? On a high-torque application? Is that remotely normal?
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Jul 25, 2014 00:35
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Yes. Both OEM and aftermarket (look at ARP stuff). Weld a nut on the end. Do you need that flywheel? If not, grind the head off with a grinder, not a dremel, it should spin right off with no torque on it.
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Jul 25, 2014 01:31
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mafoose posted:Yes. I have the flywheel on the broken engine I can use and I have access to an angle grinder......
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Jul 25, 2014 01:37
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Make sure you use loctite and torque them to spec. Seems someone probably impacted the on before. Also try removing the old one first before you ruin this one.
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Jul 25, 2014 02:10
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mafoose posted:Make sure you use loctite and torque them to spec. Seems someone probably impacted the on before. Of course. I'll take the old one(newer) off first before I go nuts with the angle grinder.
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Jul 25, 2014 02:17
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Thanks to all you guys! I wouldn't have gotten this far without your help.
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Jul 25, 2014 02:35
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 Took the angle grinder to it. of course the flywheel on the engine thats getting replaced all came off without breaking a sweat.
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Jul 26, 2014 01:04
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Fucknag posted:12 point bolts? On a high-torque application? Is that remotely normal?
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Jul 26, 2014 11:30
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Where's the shot of you standing in it?
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Jul 26, 2014 15:13
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Fucknag posted:12 point bolts? On a high-torque application? Is that remotely normal? It's a Honda, nothing about it is high torque.  Head bolts are usually 12-point too in my experience.
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Jul 26, 2014 19:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It's a Honda, nothing about it is high torque. My protege has hex for the flywheel and Allen bolts for the head. v  v
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Jul 26, 2014 21:07
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Here's where it sits tonight. New rear main seals, new valve cover gaskets, new oil pan gaskets, new transmission shaft seal and new spark plugs. Anyone got advice for getting the trans to mate up to the engine right? I get it to about an inch away and it doesnt want to slide in the rest of the way.
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Jul 27, 2014 02:16
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With Subaru's at least it's usually a good idea to use a breaker bar to rotate the crank as you throw on the trans to help line up the splines, might help if that's what you're running in to
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Jul 27, 2014 02:32
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