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You Am I posted:Close to being the worst Toyota ever, probably battling the Toyota Lexcen for that title I wouldn't expect you got any Cavaliers in Aussie would you? We got the Toyota versions here in NZ as used Japanese imports by the thousand. I've driven a Cavalier, I've only driven a Toyota-engined T130 Corona rustbucket, but I have experience the woeful Starfire motor in both a Sunbird and a VC Commy. While I haven't specifically driven a Lexcen, I have driven VN's, VP's and VS's. The Cavalier is easily about 10 times more miserable than *any* of them. What a horrible trick to play on poor Japanese Toyota buyers, only beaten by this cruel joke:  Which at least has the redeeming factor of still being a capable off-road machine, when it wasn't broken or falling apart, unlike the Cav which is useful for approximately nothing. I don't know anyone who had one that sold it, they all ended up getting scrapped. The pick-a-part yards wont even give you any cash for them. Thankfully I never owned any of them, they all belonged to mates.
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May 13, 2016 10:24
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You Am I posted:Well there was a Toyota (Australian built) with a GM (Holden) all cast iron heart: And there really was a Toyota Cavalier:  Holy poo poo. I thought the Isuzu-built Passport was bad...
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May 13, 2016 14:07
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And the Toyota Cavalier lead to this existing: A genuine GM Toyota badge.
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May 13, 2016 14:55
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kris_b posted:What a horrible trick to play on poor Japanese Toyota buyers, only beaten by this cruel joke: The worst variant is probably the Discovery MPi. In an effort to engineer what was in effect a tax dodge for company car buyers in certain markets, they put in the 2.0 petrol Rover T-series 4-pot (itself being traceable back to the old B-series lump). And while the 130-ish bhp may not sound atrocious, it also only had about 130 lbs.ft of torque, compared to more like 200 as the baseline for other variants. Frustratingly, had they used the turbo version (they supposedly built one but never took it further than a test car), it would probably have been the fastest variant, not the slowest.
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May 13, 2016 18:46
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doogle posted:Edit: Keeping the AC so I may have to stay NA. Yeah, it seems like there are few (if any) options to supercharge the LSx that let you run the A/C compressor in any position other than where GM put it from the factory, and some don't even let you keep the compressor there. Just throw a lumpy cam in it.
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May 13, 2016 18:58
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Wrar posted:The 240SX isn't a great drag racing platform. I was more asking because of build options. An LS1 car with an auto isn't far away from 10s. HCI, and a 4000-4200 stall.
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May 13, 2016 21:41
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I got the motor and trans pulled out of the Camaro and sold the shell for $800, so $200 LS1. Unfortunately, the T56 seems to be broken. The case is cracked and it looks like the driveshaft bottomed out in the trans at some point (the car was rear ended pretty bad). I have the full swap pulled including all the wiring, ECU (or PCM or whatever GM calls their poo poo), and accessories/AC stuff. I think I'll search for a deal on an F body T56 on the cheap before I continue the 240 build. We have the motor and trans back together for the turbo civic, hopefully we will put it in the car this weekend.
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May 18, 2016 04:44
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Tear the T56 down and find out what you really need to fix it. Rebuilder parts are available on the net for reasonable prices for most desirable transmissions. I've not worked on a T56 but if I had to guess, maybe the mainshaft, some shift forks, the case, and a couple bearings and gears perhaps. I bet the rest is salvageable.
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May 18, 2016 17:02
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SHE LIVES. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPwtRt_yTbY To do: Finish S2000 cluster (2 resistors plus programming the ECT module so it doesnt show 10000 degrees all the time) Install passenger Del Sol seat Reclear roof/paint and install side skirts Do a massive loving burnout New front tires In other news: I think I am going to sell my 135i and EF Civic to buy a Chevy SS or CTS-V. I test drove the Chevy SS last week and loved it, it might be hard to find a 6MT SS locally though.
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May 27, 2016 20:41
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doogle posted:SHE LIVES. Don't sell the EF 
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May 27, 2016 21:30
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What's the light that flashed on the dash when you got the exhaust afterfire?
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May 27, 2016 21:37
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Nodoze posted:Don't sell the EF I have a 2 car garage and 4 cars. I am only one man. At least the 240 stays at my friend's shop for now, but I am developing a case of automotive ADD and need to focus on just a DD and a project car. The light is the SRS light, I don't know why it is flashing as everything should be hooked up so there may be a loose connection that causes it to trip under vibration.
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May 27, 2016 22:02
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God drat no dont sell the 135i (unless its being an rear end with repairs). Get a remap on that mother and ENJOY THE HYPERSPEED. Personally I wouldnt sell either of your cars. (thought tbh I wouldnt sell any car of mine) [Though honestly If I was anywhere close to you I would snap it up in a loving instant]
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May 27, 2016 22:23
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I'll trade you 3 E30s for your 135i.
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May 27, 2016 23:01
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Rigged Death Trap posted:God drat no dont sell the 135i (unless its being an rear end with repairs). Get a remap on that mother and ENJOY THE HYPERSPEED. The 135i is already fast (450whp on 93, I used to make over 500 with meth injection but it was a pain in the rear end), but a 4 door would be really convenient. Lightbulb Out posted:I'll trade you 3 E30s for your 135i. I need to have less cars, not more. Stop tempting me.
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May 27, 2016 23:34
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PM'd.
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May 28, 2016 01:12
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That... that ... that sound. 4 cylinders aren't supposed to sound like that.   
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May 28, 2016 08:21
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HFf5AMSJLg Here is a video of my gearbox action. It has a Speed Factory modified shift change assembly which forces the shifter back into the center with authority. If I only pull back from 1st to try to go to 2nd it will go 1->4. I have to hold it to the left to get 2nd. I only have to push forward to do 2->3. It completely eliminates the chance of a 2->1 money shift. I love the gearbox feel, even more than I love the 135's which was already great.  I got gauge pods molded into the cluster surround. Right is wideband, left will be oil pressure/oil temp.  Oil pressure/temp gauge. I need to run this eventually but it isn't the highest priority right now.  Both Del Sol seats are in. The passenger seat was from a '96 or '97 so I had to swap the rails from the EG seat. The '95 and older Del Sol seats bolt right in.  My lovely ebay 1 piece headlights have rocks in them because the MT ET Street tires are too sticky and fling poo poo into them. I have a set of stock lights and amber corners I am going to install to replace them. The car is running a bit hot (~210 not going crazy with boost) so I am going to rerun the turbo water lines into the radiator hoses instead of the head and get a better Spal fan. I have a ~1000CFM Spal now, I ordered a ~1500 CFM Spal to replace it. Finish S2000 cluster (2 resistors plus programming the ECT module so it doesnt show 10000 degrees all the time) Reclear roof/paint and install side skirts Install oil pressure/temp gauge Install stock headlights Do a massive loving burnout New front tires Re-run turbo water lines to top/bottom radiator hose instead of head Install higher CFM Spal fan doogle fucked around with this message at 22:02 on May 29, 2016 |
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May 29, 2016 22:00
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That lumpy idle 
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May 30, 2016 01:44
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I want to like the Del Sol seats but I just can't get over how shouty the red stripe is. I guess it's DC seats for me or nothing That shift change assembly sounds sweet.
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May 30, 2016 05:44
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I want to like the Del Sol seats but I just can't get over how shouty the red stripe is. I guess it's DC seats for me or nothing You can get Del Sol seats in different colors, I just happened to get the blue/red ones as the shell came with the driver's side in good condition. And it isn't like a Civic hatch with a carbon fiber hood, roof, and hatch along with a turbo dump tube and a license plate that says "2SOONJNR" is subtle.
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May 30, 2016 15:31
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 MT ET Street R tires in 225/50/15  Old Spal slim fan vs new Spal "gently caress you, heat" fan  The old fan was ~1000CFM, the new one is ~1800CFM.  See that hole where a plug should be? That either vibrated out or it wasn't torqued correctly. I lost about a quart of fluid and the plug itself. I have to pick up another one at the Acura dealership tomorrow morning along with some more trans fluid to top it off. Finish S2000 cluster (2 resistors plus programming the ECT module so it doesnt show 10000 degrees all the time) Reclear roof/paint and install side skirts Install oil pressure/temp gauge Install stock headlights Do a massive loving burnout Re-run turbo water lines to top/bottom radiator hose instead of head
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Jun 4, 2016 04:30
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 The fan has like .25" clearance from the clutch release fork. It also takes 40 amps to run, which is pretty neat since I had to run a separate relay for it.  The 225/50/15 ET Street R is slightly bigger than the normal ET Streets so these stick out from the fender a bit. I'll have to raise the car up or pull the fenders out a bit.  At least they look cool The car still slightly overheats on long pulls. It is in the mid 90s here, but it still shouldn't overheat. Once I get the adapters in I'll move the turbo coolant lines from the head to the radiator hoses and hopefully that solves it. Reclear roof/paint and install side skirts Install oil pressure/temp gauge Do a massive loving burnout Re-run turbo water lines to top/bottom radiator hose instead of head doogle fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 4, 2016 20:15
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Updates: EF: still leaks trans fluid. I'll have to reseal the trans one day. EG: I'm making some radiator ducting to keep the cruising temps down. I'm also doing a coolant flush, running the turbo water lines to the radiator hoses, and running 100% distilled water + DEI radiator relief. I'm hopefully going to a Honda meet in Charlotte Saturday as long as I can keep the cruising temps down. Mystery LS1 car (probably 240sx): I got the trans fixed. All it cost me was $100 for parts, the shop owed me from one of their now fired employees not building the EG trans properly.
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Jun 9, 2016 19:39
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Turbo car runs nice and cool now. ~189 on the highway and ~195 at idle. A nice long 1-4 gear pull gets it up to about 198 but it cools down to ~189 after a mile or so of 65 mph. There is a small oil leak from an oil pan bolt, I'll probably just yank that bolt out and fill the hole with The RIght Stuff and put the bolt back. Final issue is that I am hitting boost cut at full throttle in 3rd (1 and 2 are just 12psi for traction purposes so no issue there) I'll have to email the tuner some data logs so he can adjust it (I had it tuned in the winter and it is ~95 degrees now so I can probably use a retune). Finally not mad at this car! I'll grab my gopro and post some sweet videos tomorrow. I'm going to Charlotte for HONDA DAY so that should be fun seeing cars that are faster than mine and don't break (or are fixed more quickly) as much as mine.
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Jun 10, 2016 21:31
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 FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU Something happened with my BOV (it is a Tial Q, possibly a spring issue or vacuum line problem) and it stopped working, causing the turbo to start compressor surging and it failed over a ~350 mile trip. The turbo seals and possibly bearings are trash. 
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Jun 16, 2016 20:46
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doogle do a s14 with a rip off boss kit/ls1 baby muscle
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Jun 17, 2016 01:30
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So how long before you finally just torch it? Jesus
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Jun 17, 2016 01:52
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iwentdoodie posted:So how long before you finally just torch it? Jesus Every time it breaks I am super pissed and want to sell it, then I fix it. Once I drive it again I want to keep it forever. It is the scariest/funniest car I've ever driven.
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Jun 17, 2016 01:59
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doogle posted:Every time it breaks I am super pissed and want to sell it, then I fix it. Once I drive it again I want to keep it forever. I know I can't be the only person here that also has this feeling about a car they own. I love this car and this thread!
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Jun 23, 2016 14:48
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doogle posted:Something happened with my BOV (it is a Tial Q, possibly a spring issue or vacuum line problem) and it stopped working, causing the turbo to start compressor surging and it failed over a ~350 mile trip. The turbo seals and possibly bearings are trash. Someone explain this to a non-turbo person please.
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Jun 23, 2016 17:50
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Ziploc posted:Someone explain this to a non-turbo person please. When you lift off the gas pedal, closing the throttle plate, the turbo is still pushing compressed air at the throttle plate. The intent of a BOV ("blowoff valve") or "bypass valve" is to harmlessly redirect that awesome compressed air somewhere else because it's not like you can use it right now. They are generally signalled by a vacuum line and control the sensitivity and ferocity of their response via an internal spring. If the BOV doesn't work, as in doogle's case, the compressed air bounces off the closed throttle plate, goes back into the turbo and stalls it, sort of like taking a can of computer duster and pointing it at a running fan. This is not good for the turbocharger and is known as compressor surge. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 18:12
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Good tech article from GFB here too http://www.gfb.com.au/tech/tech-articles/11-the-truth-about-compressor-surge
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Jun 24, 2016 06:26
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 Traded my BRMS ramhorn (ceramic coated) for a friend's Full Race old as gently caress top mount. The turbo wouldn't fit with the ramhorn because it is loving gigantic. The hood won't close as it is now, I'll have to cut it for clearance.  Everything complete.  New dyno sheet. It makes power about ~1000 RPM later than the previous set up, and made ~10whp less. It was also 100 degrees for this tune vs ~30 degrees with the old tune. I'm hitting the power limit for my fuel system right now. If I wanted more power I'd need an a1000 fuel pump and some ~1600+ cc injectors plus bigger fuel lines.  Old dyno sheet for reference. It doesn't seem to spin as bad with the new turbo, probably because it makes power at a higher road speed so the tires have a hope to hook.
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Jul 2, 2016 01:37
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Why is the header flange cut between each of the primary tubes?
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Jul 2, 2016 14:21
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Congrats on a making a turbocharged motor look like an S2k on the dyno. Time for some more VTEC stickers. This car is insane and awesome, this has been a fun read. Please don't die as I want to see your next project.
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Jul 2, 2016 14:57
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TWSS posted:Why is the header flange cut between each of the primary tubes?
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Jul 2, 2016 15:01
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I took it to the track last night, unfortunately it kept hitting boost cut on full boost. I turned it down to wastegate pressure (11 psi, ~410 whp) and then my VSS failed so I had no VTEC and my car thought I wanted to 2 step down the track. I managed a 6.87 1/8 mile run @ 101 mph with a 1.9 60' before I shut down due to boost cut. I pulled the VSS plug off and it is super corroded so I ordered another pigtail to solder on there. I disabled the VTEC MPH requirement and disabled 2 step so I can drive the car normally now, I just don't have a speedo.
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Jul 2, 2016 20:50
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I thought that the VTEC switch over was a fairly boolean "give 12V to a solenoid @ X RPM"? I know that the AP2 guys can just grab a Hondata and change their VTEC engagement with the press of a few buttons, are the older VTEC motors different? e: forgot that you had the LS swap for a sec Phone fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Jul 2, 2016 |
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Jul 2, 2016 21:37
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Phone posted:I thought that the VTEC switch over was a fairly boolean "give 12V to a solenoid @ X RPM"? I know that the AP2 guys can just grab a Hondata and change their VTEC engagement with the press of a few buttons, are the older VTEC motors different? My motor is a B18A1 block/B18C5 head, ostensibly the same as a B18C1 now as far as the electronics go. The ECU looks for temperature, oil pressure, vehicle speed and throttle position before engaging VTEC. Because my VSS wasn't working, the ECU would not engage the VTEC solenoid. Also due to the VSS going out, the ECU engaged the 2 step rev limiter which looks for TPS > 80% and vehicle speed to be <5 mph. My VTEC engagement point is ~5500 RPM, which is what the tuner set it at.
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Jul 2, 2016 23:06
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