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The old thread fell into the archives because progress has been eluding me. This is where I left you (if I remember correctly):  At this point the car made over 400hp, ran a sub 11 second quarter mile and started falling apart. The turbo manifold broke around the welds for the wastegate which caused me to yank the motor out and swap shells while I was waiting on the replacement. The new shell is a 1994 Civic VX hatchback, a 6 year improvement! Updated build: LS/VTEC 2 liter B18a1 block with Darton sleeves 84mm forged pistons 9:1 compression Forged rods with ARP wristpins Equal length turbo manifold 60-1 T4 .84 A/R Turbo Tial MVR wastegate/Tial BOV Edlebrock Victor X intake manifold B18C5 head GSC Double valvesprings GSC valve guides/valve seals GSC valves GSC T1 cams While the motor was out, I decided to upgrade the valvetrain as I was still using the stock Integra Type R stuff. I bought a full valvetrain from GSC Power Division which was installed about 3 weeks ago. The machine shop ran into a problem where the valve lash couldn't be adjusted to spec. Eventually we ripped the cams out to find the problem.  All new valvetrain.   The VTEC lobe is hitting the cam girdle on the exhaust cam. Probably isn't supposed to do that.  Yeah, they are definitely hitting.  This is the intake side and how the center lobe should clear  Can you tell what the problem is with the Exhaust cam? (right side)  VTEC cam lobe measured at the smallest point on the GSC exhaust cam  VTEC cam lob measured at the smallest point on a Brian Crower stage 2 NA cam. Well there is the problem. This is where I am now, GSC overnighted a new exhaust cam for me which I should get tomorrow or Monday. Once I get the cam I will be able to drop the motor in. I need to put the shell back together as well, I bought it complete but in pieces. Here is a similar build with the GSC cams: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMqnQDBl_Ls doogle fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Jul 28, 2014 |
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Jul 26, 2014 03:23
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mafoose posted:why did you choose such a big hotside? Because I got the turbo for basically free. Once it goes I'll be switching to a 6262. Phone posted:Yo doogle, we still gotta swap rides when both of our cars are working at the same time. Yeah buddy! As long as everything else goes as planned (probably not) mine should be done by the end of August. Seat Safety Switch posted:Why is the bad exhaust cam so huge? 2mm is an enormous amount to be out by. Is it designed for a different engine with a smaller cam girdle? I don't know, GSC makes them in batches of 100 (at least that is what they told me) and I was the first person with this problem.
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Jul 27, 2014 04:00
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 The new cam came in, everything seems in spec this time. I'm cleaning the head up and hopefully I will be able to adjust the valves tonight or tomorrow. Once the valves are adjusted I'll be able to put the motor in the car and then mock up the charge piping and get it welded.
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Jul 28, 2014 21:15
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I reassembled the head and adjusted the valves, I adjusted them to spec easily now that I have a cam that isn't hosed. But now I can't find where I put the shift fork for the transmission, I had to order another one. Hopefully I'll get it by Friday. Once that comes in I'll be able to put the trans on the motor and drop everything in.
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Jul 30, 2014 03:02
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 Picture of the shell. The paint is in very good condition but the previous owner put a carbon fiber roof, hood and hatch on it. I'll probably leave them on the car but paint them eventually. I should get the clutch fork tomorrow or Monday. I'm going to California for a couple weeks but once I'm back I should be able to finish the car in about 2 weeks.
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Aug 1, 2014 21:45
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 The parts came in today, hopefully I will be dropping the motor in tonight. edit: I HAD TO OVERNIGHT PARTS FROM JAPAN
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Aug 4, 2014 17:20
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 Motor and trans ready to be dropped in  Car on the lift and ready for the motor  Much easier dropping the car on the motor than putting the motor in from the top.  Motor in.  Turbo and wastegate on That is all I was able to get done today. The motor in physically in, but I still have to hook up all the ancillaries. Once I get back from vacation I should be able to finish installing the motor and get the charge piping mocked up then welded. After that I'll have to wait for the tuner to give me a date he is free. At that point all I will have to do is put the rest of the car together (rocker panels, hood, lights, bumper, traction bar) and it will be ready to drive.
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Aug 5, 2014 01:57
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 The intercooler piping is almost done being mocked up, just have to figure out how to get the hot side around the traction bar. Once everything clears it will be taped up and taken to the machine shop to get welded so there will only be 4 couplers.
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Aug 8, 2014 06:28
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 Charge piping is welded up to the throttle body because there wasn't enough lip to reliably hold the coupler on.  Turbo screen and sweet press fitting reference line installed.  Turbo blanket on, ceramic coated manifold and heat wrapped downpipe.  What I have left to do: -Install Integra throttle cable -Replace rubber hoses with ones that are long enough -Install valve cover and catch can -Install new fuel filter and fuel line -Wire the boost solenoid -Install front fender liners -Drain fuel tank I had to order some AN fittings for the fuel line, the old fuel filter is the lovely one that doesn't flow worth a drat so I have to convert it to a EK (96-00 civic) fuel filter. I had an old AN line so I figured I'll just buy the fittings for that while I'm at it. The worst part will be digging out an Integra throttle cable from the junk yard, hopefully it isn't too hot tomorrow. At this rate with all the random problems that are popping up, I'll probably start the car sometime this century.
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Sep 5, 2014 04:20
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Adonis posted:Good luck with that steel manifold. I don't need luck where I'm going, I have the skill to swap manifolds in under an hour and a lifetime warranty.
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Sep 5, 2014 13:41
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  I put the throttle cable on and swapped the fuel filter to a 96-00 civic style one. I just have to cut the hardline, flare it and attach it to the new filter at the bottom. My AN line has a straight connector on it so I either have to switch it to a 90 degree, or find a 90 degree AN fitting for the fuel filter. I ordered all the hoses which should get here tomorrow as well. Hopefully I'll have the fuel system finished tomorrow, if I do I can drain the tank, fill it up with some good gas and fire it up. -Replace rubber hoses with ones that are long enough -Install valve cover and catch can -Wire the boost solenoid -Wire the wideband -Install front fender liners -Drain fuel tank
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Sep 9, 2014 21:42
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I didn't take any pictures but I did a few things: -Install valve cover and catch can -Install front fender liners -Drain fuel tank I'm going to try to drain the tank and finish that fuel line tomorrow, if I do I should be able to start the car. Hopefully. Probably not.
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Sep 10, 2014 21:56
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revmoo posted:Hey what redline are you looking to hit with this? I'll have to see how the powerband falls, but most likely around 10k.
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Sep 13, 2014 06:54
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 I'm pretty busy at work so things are going slow. I got the fuel line completed now at least. I somehow broke the flaring tool and had to get a new one so it took a couple days. I found a couple more things I'm going to have to do before this bitch is done too: -Install valve cover and catch can -Install front fender liners -Drain fuel tank -Put the damper pulley on and replace alternator belt -Pull the turbo off and rerun the water line behind the dipstick
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Sep 16, 2014 22:12
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I cannot find the damper pulley, I need to find it before I can start the car. The stupid things are like $300, I hope I don't have to buy another one. I'm going to tear apart the shop tomorrow looking for it, if I do I will post video of the car starting for the first time. I also took care of some other poo poo that needed to be done eventually, the non-upgraded axle had a torn boot so I took it in to autozone and got another free replacement. Honda B series tip: only buy the upgraded passenger side axle, you can keep a stock axle on the driver's side and it will never break. Probably has something to do with the intermediate shaft or something, but every single axle that I have seen break on a B series Honda was the passenger side. -Install valve cover -Install front fender liners -Put the damper pulley on and replace alternator belt -Add fluids and start the bitch
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Sep 18, 2014 21:22
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mafoose posted:Hey doogle, would you mind posting or emailing me your timing map? I'll have to rip it off my ecu, if you can wait until Monday I'll shoot you a copy of the tune so you can take a look at everything. Nodoze posted:A B18 can take that alright? Probably! doogle fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Sep 20, 2014 |
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Sep 20, 2014 03:26
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mafoose posted:Awesome thanks so much! I forgot to bring my laptop today when we started the car, I'll bring it by tomorrow and get that map for you.  Basically just have to put the hood, bumper, fender liners and lights then get a tune. Here is a short idle video, it was pretty annoying to keep it running because it cams so hard it would die without a little throttle input. I need to adjust the idle about 100 rpm higher and it should be all right. http://youtu.be/XmNF3TMuc_A -Replace rubber hoses with ones that are long enough -Install valve cover and catch can -Install new fuel filter and fuel line -Wire the boost solenoid -Wire the wideband -Install front fender liners -Put the damper pulley on and replace alternator belt -Pull the turbo off and rerun the water line behind the dipstick -Replace rear T bracket with one that isn't broken -Replace axle -Install extended lugs on rear hubs -Reinstalled shifter linkage -Add fluids and start the bitch -Install bumper, hood, and lights -Get a tune (11 October)
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Sep 24, 2014 01:32
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mafoose posted:Thanks! Engine should be back together this week. Get an EG man, the money I saved initially buying an EF was quickly lost due to higher parts costs for pretty much every EF specific thing. Unless you get a CRX, then it is worth it. What is your email address? You can PM me if you want.
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Sep 25, 2014 02:37
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mafoose posted:It's my username at gmail! Well, I tried to pull the tune off of the ECU for the past couple days with no luck. Apparently my S300 decided to break while the car was sitting. It will still run the car but I cannot connect to it through SManager. I called up Hondata and they told me my best bet is to upgrade to S300 V3 which has bluetooth map changing and logging. I had to pay another $250 to upgrade, this car is a money black hole. My newly rebuilt transmission is having a hard time going into 1st gear as well, the builder told me the carbon synchros take a bit to break in, but I don't buy it. In the end it will get fixed, hopefully without costing me more money. The tune date is on 4 October at RLZ, Hondata is overnighting the new board, hopefully the stars align and everything works out this time. gently caress this car, I hope it blows up on the dyno so I can just throw it away.
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Sep 26, 2014 02:34
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Getting the tune tomorrow, I'll let you guys know how it goes when I get back. I had Hondata send my new chip with overnight shipping so I could get it and load a basemap to test it, but Fedex decided to miss my house 2 days in a row somehow and I had to drive about 40 miles each way to go pick it up from their distribution hub.
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Oct 4, 2014 04:47
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The car is tuned, unfortunately there are three problems with the car, two will need to be addressed before the car is on the road: -The transmission was put together incorrectly, it is nearly impossible to put into 1st or 2nd gear. -The ECU is damaged which is most likely what killed my Hondata. -The car makes too much power and will kill me. (519 whp@9400 rpm/325 wtq@6500) That is a low boost tune as well, the injectors were hitting about 90% duty cycle on the last pull so the tune ended there. I thought 1000cc injectors would cut it for 93 octane, but I need at least 1300cc, maybe 2000cc to max out this turbo. The previous car was going over 20 psi with the same motor/turbo, the 519hp pull was done at 15psi with the upgraded valvetrain. http://youtu.be/-is8Mz3cpQE edit: I'm heading over to the shop tomorrow to clean up some wiring (we had to wire the fuel pump with larger gauge wiring directly to the alternator because the fuel pressure was dropping), I'll download the tune and send it to you or screenshot it or whatever you want. edit 2: the tuner sent me the map, I'm emailing it to you now. doogle fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Oct 5, 2014 |
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Oct 5, 2014 03:59
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InitialDave posted:Having now built two iterations of this engine, if you were to start with a blank sheet, what would you do differently? When I first bought the EF I bought it because it was $500. I didn't plan on making it fast or anything, I just planned on driving it. I then drove my friend's 300hp Honda and wanted a car like that. At this point I should have bought an Integra or EG Civic to build. Instead I kept the EF and spent an extra ~$1500 over what it would have cost me to put the same set up in an EG just because EF specific parts cost more money. After swapping everything in the EG, I was out another ~$1000 (After selling the EF parts at a loss) from mounts, switching to a hydro trans, etc. For the actual motor, I would have gotten a GSR block sleeved at the stock bore instead of the LS motor sleeved at 84mm. 84mm is fine for boost, but if I ever need to bore it more I might run into head gasket issues with boost. If this motor blows up and I have to go to 85mm, I will probably make it a high compression NA motor so I don't have the head gasket issues. For the transmission, I should have bought one from Synchrotech already built. It would have only a couple hundred more than what I paid for this one, but it would have worked out of the box instead of me having to take it back to the trans shop for adjustment and I could have gotten it in a week instead of a few months. Other than that, the car is scary fast for fairly cheap. I have a mid 400whp BMW 135i for a daily driver and that feels about as fast as a V6 Mustang in comparison to the EG. I took the Civic down the road and with hot tires it spins until 5th but once it hooks it is terrifying, even compared to the EF. I put the lights in the car, the headlight lenses are cracked and fogged up so I ordered some sweet ebay ones to replace them, if they are too horrible I'll get some OEM replacements down the line. At least I can drive it down the road now. I'm going to install the fender liners tomorrow and reinstall the traction bars. Hopefully the ECU gets back to me by Friday.  In this picture you can see the remains of the EF in the upper left corner. quote:
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Oct 5, 2014 19:32
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mafoose posted:
What cams is he using? My switch from ITR cams to GSC cams picked me up over 60whp at the same boost level, and the turbo spools about 900 RPM more quickly (I also ceramic coated the turbo manifold, turbo hotside, have a turbo blanket and heat wrapped exhaust now so that could have helped the spool a bit). Did you get the tune file I emailed you?
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Oct 6, 2014 02:54
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You Am I posted:You'd build up some strong arms from the torque steer http://youtu.be/7ZYolCsEMBs Here is the dyno video of the old car, it made 357 whp @8400 RPM on 12 psi (The license plate said TQSTEER). It was tuned to 20 psi but it was doing a burnout on the dyno so I don't have accurate numbers but it is safe to say it made over 400 whp. http://youtu.be/yDgKt-3VLYU And here is a 2->4 gear pull with the old car with hot MT ET street drag radials. My Rhythmic Crotch posted:9400 RPM, 519 whp ... Gat dayum The worst part about it is the motor was balanced to 11k RPM, the head is capable of 12k RPM, and the turbo doesn't run out of efficiency until ~24 psi. All I need is a better fuel system (pumps, larger lines and injectors), an aftermarket ignition system and a tune and I could be hitting high 500s on pump gas, high 600s on E85 or c16. doogle fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Oct 6, 2014 |
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Oct 6, 2014 12:59
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Nodoze posted:How scary is turning in this thing.. It understeers quite a bit. It has 225/50/15s on the front and 205/50/15s on the back, no sway bars, and neutral camber front and back so it is set up to go in a straight line. I might have to raise the rear a bit to help keep the weight on the front wheels as well, which will make it handle even worse. For driving on the street it is fine as long as you aren't trying to accelerate through the corners. It is fun to power out of them though. I have the BMW for tracks with turns, this guy is only going straight.
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Oct 6, 2014 17:21
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I'll let you know when the new ECU gets back from getting socketed and the transmission issue is fixed. edit: This has 2 front seats too, so you don't have to sit in the back.
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Oct 6, 2014 19:53
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Nodoze posted:How much power reduction are we talking to make it a viable (read: wont understeer you into oblivion) turny road fun car If I put sway bars on it, ran a square tire set up, had a corner balance and alignment, I still wouldn't want more than 300hp in this car. And even at that level I would still probably short shift or run very low boost in 1st through 3rd. If I ran a high compression NA set up with ~230hp it would probably be a lot faster than it is now around a track. The torque steer really isn't that bad, it is a lot better than an SRT4 or Speed3 which are the only other high HP FWD cars I've driven. edit: This car weighs in at around 1900 lbs with a full tank of gas, the old car was in the 1600s. But this one has a dash, heat, power windows and maybe one day, carpet!
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Oct 7, 2014 00:15
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Tremek posted:Explain the RT4WD dreams comment - I have a RT4WD I want to get stupid with at some point and I'm hoping there's no terrible secret here. As long as you have a '88 or newer, the suspension is pretty much the same as an EF civic. The older ones have a torsion bar rear set up while the 88+ has independent front and rear suspension. You're better off sticking with a D series motor to keep the 4WD, otherwise you're either going to spend a lot of money converting to a CRV drivetrain or some other crazy conversion stuff I haven't looked into. Then you'll also run into the main problem I had with sticking a turbo B18 into an EF, space. That being said, a turbo D16z6 in a '88+ Wagovan would be pretty sweet and a basic piston/rods D16z6 build can make ~250 WHP without breaking. I'm just not sure how much power the awesome 5.5 speed transmission can hold.
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Oct 7, 2014 03:34
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Phone posted:OMG, thanks for revitalizing my RT4WD dreams. I thought that the late model ones had a torsion beam in the back too. I'd probably do a 2554 for the quicker spool. You can't rev out a turbo D series like you can a VTEC B series unless you spend some money, you'd be looking at around 7500 RPM for the basic rods/piston turbo build. edit: Bajaha posted:I really want to see you take this to the drag strip and see what kind of times it puts down. This thing is crazy as a regular daily driven civic, probably gets a lot of looks when you crack the throttle. I don't have easy access to E85 where I am, otherwise all my cars and probably my lawn mower would run it. There are a few stations around, but the closest one is about 40 miles away. I'll probably do either E85 or C16 down the line, but I need a lot of seat time first to get used to the power it makes now. doogle fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Oct 7, 2014 |
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Oct 7, 2014 04:17
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I got the transmission back, 1st and 2nd were shimmed backwards. I also needed to get a new linkage and bushing so I ordered those through the dealer, and I should get them tomorrow. Now I'm just waiting on the ECU to come back from getting socketed and the car will be road worthy (relatively). It is even legal! Passed the NC state inspection somehow so it has plates. I was thinking about getting TQSTEER again, or can you guys think of a better one? 2SOONJR is taken or I would have gotten that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odwnpFwuwF8Tremek posted:Sweet, that's what I was thinking. I have a D16Z6 block I'm slowly dismantling in my garage while I drive my otherwise unmolested '91 back and forth from the airport. 250whp would still be stupid amounts of fun in this go-kart. 250whp would make it a mid to low 12 second car with tires and a good launch.
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Oct 8, 2014 02:49
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Plate is: 2SOONJNR. Somehow that wasn't taken. I'm putting the hood and aero catch latches on tomorrow along with the new shift linkage and shifter bushings. Hopefully the new ECU gets in next week so I can start driving this thing.
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Oct 11, 2014 04:44
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The resin coat on the carbon fiber roof and hatch was damaged from the sun since the car sat outside for so long, my friend's dad recleared it with a bit of black in the clear coat and it came out drat near perfect. I didn't get a chance to put the hood or latches on because he threw a coat of clear on the new hood as well to match it with the roof and hatch. We're going to go to the shop in the morning to finish the rest of the poo poo, then I just have to wait for the ECU.
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Oct 11, 2014 19:51
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Some rear end in a top hat rear ended me while I was driving my BMW so I haven't really gotten a chance to do anything with the civic until today. I got the ECU in so that is finally done, I got to take it down the road and scare myself a bit as well. Carbon fiber roof, that makes this exactly the same as an M3.  The driver's side window trim kind of flew off at speed, I ordered another set to replace both sides. I'll be putting the hood on tomorrow (probably).  Almost done. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNyoSpCTFIc 1000 RPM idle, it sounds much better in person. quote:
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Oct 17, 2014 03:46
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I'm taking it to the track tonight, going to let off at the 1/8 to get used to it then a 1/4 mile pass and probably get kicked out!
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Oct 17, 2014 20:51
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It is an actual carbon fiber roof, the metal roof is gone.
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Oct 18, 2014 00:00
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leica posted:Well it doesn't have a cage does it? Aren't you a little worried about that? I live my life a quarter mile at a time. (I'm getting a full cage, seats, and harnesses before next year, but I won't have time to get everything installed before the weather starts getting too lovely)
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Oct 18, 2014 01:34
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Phone posted:It's been 85F in October. And besides, when it's cold out, you can run all of the boosts. Are you sure you still want a ride? On my first and only full quarter mile run it did a 11.1 @ 136 with a 2.2 60' on a 205/50/15 MT ET street drag radial and a soft launch at ~500FT DA. My tires aren't tall enough (23" tall), so I'd have to shift into 5th to get a higher trap. I hit rev limiter in 4th (~137 mph) at around the 1000'. For some reason I thought 4th gear was 125 mph at redline so I could do that a few times and not get booted, but I was wrong. The car is impossible to get off the line, I had to short shift 1st and 2nd to stop from spinning through all the gears. I'm going to get a corner balance done to bring some more weight up front and probably some drag coilovers in the back to keep the car from squatting. My street aero wing should get here soon and I'm going to be doing some underbody work in the rear so I don't have to cut stupid holes in the bumper. As the T shirt says, I know this car has enough horsepower because I am afraid to drive it (until I get used to it). It weighs in at 1912 with a full tank of gas by the way. Might get a lead hood or something to get some more traction. edit: They quoted me 3 weeks for the cage, I'll probably have it done late November as I will be out of town for a couple weeks anyway. To make it legal I'll need an 8 point cage, window net, battery cutoff switch, and a fuckin' parachute. I'm pretty sure I can trap over 150 once the car is set up correctly with taller tires, which will be terrifying. doogle fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Oct 18, 2014 |
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Oct 18, 2014 02:52
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Phone posted:Yes. Whenever I run a NASA event, you can hop in the passenger seat up at VIR. I'm getting a corner balance done Monday, I'm not doing anything next weekend so I can head up to Raleigh as long as nothing pops up between now and then.
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Oct 18, 2014 19:52
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Wrar posted:Oh man. I want a ride in this ridiculous thing too. Are you in NC?
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Oct 18, 2014 22:43
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Phone posted:gently caress NEAI, we're making a SEAI right here. Next weekend I think I'm polishing asmasm's Mazda3, but I'm sure that he wouldn't mind a ride in a death mobile. I should be able to make it up there Saturday around noon. I'll let you know for sure as the weekend gets closer. Put the hood on, getting a corner balance tomorrow. The trans still isn't perfect so I'm going to take it back to the trans shop to show them, then yank the trans out in a couple months to have them fix it again.  edit: mafoose posted:Sent the ignition maps to my friend, he did some more tweaks to the fuel table, the car is still very rich off boost, but other than that it screams! If he is running hondata s300 and has a wideband hooked up to the s300, he can make the car run in closed loop for the low load scenarios. There is a section in SManager called closed loop, if his wideband is calibrated properly it works great. It goes back to open loop once throttle is over x% and there is y load which is all configurable through SManager. doogle fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Oct 20, 2014 |
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Oct 20, 2014 05:04
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