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The Gunslinger posted:I was also running torrents and etc off this server which is inadvisable with an SSD but whatever. I'm not saying you're wrong but why would this be the case? It seems like torrents aren't that much more in terms of write operations than a normal download and read operations don't cause wear on SSDs, correct?
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Jan 15, 2016 16:55
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Touchfuzzy posted:If I were wanting to use an SSD as a scratch disk for huge lossless video files before encoding them and storing them elsewhere, would I have to jump up to a Pro instead of an Evo, or or are there alternate solutions? You don't have to, it's just going to wear out sooner. That said it still takes hundreds of terabytes of writes to kill an SSD typically, even taking the TLC 840 EVO as an example.
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Jan 27, 2016 03:13
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Much of the improvement to be had from an SSD is in getting rid of seek time so that your access latency drops from milliseconds to nanoseconds, and any SSD will give you that. Also, most SATA 3 models are already up against the 600MBps interface limit for read speeds so the only place you'll see a serious difference in stats is in random access and write speed. Even drives that are considered to be really slow like Crucial's BX100 can usually do at least 80-100MBps sequential write speed, so the only time you're likely to notice that is if you're copying a lot of information straight off another SSD or a fast HDD. This leaves random access and reliability as the main differentiators between models, and to be honest I can't quantify how much difference random access speeds make to consumer workloads but I'll make a guess of "typically not much, once you already have SSD-level access latency" and move on to reliability. Reliability is hard to get a bead on in a statistics sense but as long as you pick a model that's made by an established player and has been on the market long enough for common/catastrophic problems to be found, you should be fine. All brands have some rate of early failure so make backups regardless. In conclusion, if you're getting a drive just to dump some games on and reduce your load times you don't need to lose sleep over not paying the Samsung or Intel premium. If you want to stress about random access and write speeds you should pay the premium or go read reviews so you can try to find a less expensive model that still performs. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Apr 13, 2016 |
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Apr 13, 2016 22:58
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MaxxBot posted:Yeah but the "Samsung premium" in the context of the 850 EVO is like 10% at most relative to the cheapest SSDs available and often zero when it goes on sale, it's already one of the cheaper SSDs out there. Samsung 850 EVO: $88/150 for 250/500GB, on Amazon and Newegg right now, neither on sale Crucial BX200: $65/118 for 240/480GB, same It's 20-25% difference with depending on which you use as a baseline if you compare to the specific model I mentioned before. There are cheaper ones out there but I mentioned Crucial specifically because they're an established manufacturer that's using their own NAND, just like Samsung. I'm not saying that there's no advantage to the Samsung or even that it isn't worth it, because relative to the cost of a full system it's not a big deal. I just think that a lot of use cases wouldn't see a difference, so you shouldn't necessarily feel like it's a no-brainer to get the "best" drive. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Apr 14, 2016 |
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Apr 14, 2016 04:51
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*scratches head* I have a Samsung SSD in my main computer, I'm again not saying they're not worth it or anything like that. If you plan to buy an SSD for a use case where you mostly care about sequential read performance or just having SSD latency though, like just to put games on (or for an HTPC, just thought of this too), then I think some people might care more about the $30 or whatever since they might literally never notice. I don't know about the warranty issues, I guess I'm really lucky or something because out of the 7 or 8 SSDs I've bought I've never had a failure. I've bought Samsung, Intel, Kingston, Crucial, and Silicon Power(ed.: and Sandisk, forgot that one) and while I'm not really paying close attention I can't tell a big difference in real world performance (defined as: how long do I spend waiting on my computer) either. Again, if you want to be sure you won't lose your data you need to keep backups with any brand. If you notice a difference or are worried about failures though, please do buy only the best and don't let what I said lead you astray. AVeryLargeRadish posted:The BX200 is one of the worst SSDs on the market performance-wise and Crucial has a history of awful warranty related shenanigans when it comes to their SSDs. I would never recommend their BX200 line, hell, in some tests the 480GB BX200 shits out worse performance than a HDD. Yeah, I already said the sequential write performance on the one I got recently (might be a MX or a -100, I can't recall exactly) is like 80MBps and I will happily agree that is garbage, it's worse than a 7200RPM HD. It just doesn't matter for where I'm using it. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Apr 14, 2016 |
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Apr 14, 2016 18:08
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Wilford Cutlery posted:My boss, who normally buys 850 EVOs to refurb old machines, recently bought five PNY CS1311 drives. Are these at least any good? Any major problems, enough to talk him into returning them? Anandtech reviewed those a couple weeks back and they look like acceptable budget SSDs. Performance will not be as good as the 850 EVOs but it doesn't look exceptionally bad.
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Apr 26, 2016 21:17
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Ragingsheep posted:There are programs that can extract the key in Windows. I've used Magic Jelly Bean in the past. Not sure if that's still a thing. Yes, and ProduKey is an alternative that will do the same job.
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May 19, 2016 14:56
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Yes. Make sure your 10 image is from November or newer and you can just put in your 7 key to activate 10.
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Jun 3, 2016 22:17
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Pilchenstein posted:So I got that 850EVO, used Samsung's migration tool to clone my existing SSD and I'm curious: are the 10 gig of extra partitions windows made when I first installed important? Because they didn't get cloned onto the new drive. A typical Windows 10 fresh install is around 10G in total and commonly has a 100MB EFI partition before, as well as a small (450MB on my system) recovery partition after. What 10G of extra partitions are you talking about?
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Jul 16, 2016 18:30
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Pilchenstein posted:I probably just added a digit. The point is the migration tool didn't bother with those partitions - am I ok as long as I don't try to system restore? Uh... well, if your system boots you have an EFI partition (or a BIOS boot sector) somewhere. The recovery partition can be ignored if you don't plan to use recovery features, yeah.
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Jul 17, 2016 16:42
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Wilford Cutlery posted:Any thoughts? I thought that TRIM support was a software thing so you should be fine as long as you're running Windows 7 or newer and have AHCI enabled. Is that wrong? ed.: Actually, Wikipedia indicates that IDE drives can support it too. I think as long as you have 7 or newer you should be good. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Jul 21, 2016 |
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Jul 20, 2016 23:44
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Avocados posted:P6X58D-E The Bloomfield/Nehalem i7s are stepping stones between the old world of Core 2 and the new world of Core i* so their performance in general reflects that fact, but they're topnotch chips (basically rebadged Xeons) for their era so depending on what you're doing it might be just fine. You'd definitely notice a difference on many games if you have a high-end graphics card but for office/media/web browsing stuff it's still pretty quick. Triple channel memory helps a bit to keep them feeling fresh, I'm sure. They also overclock really well, 3.6GHz is within reach for many chips from that generation.
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Aug 24, 2016 21:21
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Macrium Reflect Free Edition does this well. I recently used it to upgrade my main desktop's SSD and then pass that drive down to my laptop, which passed its drive to my HTPC. All three transfers worked without a hitch.
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Aug 31, 2016 20:43
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