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JnnyThndrs
May 29, 2001

HERE ARE THE FUCKING TOWELS

To run that processor(which is an Ivy Bridge E) you need an X79 motherboard, and those are either *very* expensive used, or made new by no-name Chinese companies with dubious engineering and sold on eBay.

Id probably pass on it myself, its only four cores so you could build a new Ryzen or i3 system that would be much faster, use less power and be compatible with the latest technology for the same cost as a used decent-quality motherboard.

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Statutory Ape
Sep 12, 2017



Take the free processor and flip it

Eletriarnation
Apr 6, 2005

People don't appreciate the substance of things...
objects in space.


Pillbug

You're not going to get much flipping a 4-core Ivy Bridge E (e: looks like $20-25 on eBay, which is more than I expected), the whole point of that chip was to be the bare minimum to light up the platform and I know of no reason to take it over a regular 4-core Ivy Bridge except the platform benefits of PCIe lanes and memory capacity.

Any guaranteed-working LGA2011 motherboard would probably cost at least $100, on the other hand.

The memory is cheap (I paid $19/8GB RDIMM a couple months back for 1333MHz DDR3) but that's probably not enough to justify paying for a board too unless you really need a lot of memory (and not a lot of CPU) for something.

Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at Sep 20, 2018 around 16:01

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

Thanks all, that's what I figured.

Dongattack
Dec 20, 2006

I wish I could be a simpleton.


I'm making a projector/home cinema/couch gaming room atm, to access games/movies/etc in the room i'm using a Steam Link. I'm stuck on finding a sound system that's affordable and makes sense tho, it's been 15+ years since I've bought one and 5.1 systems with a subwoofer and the like seem to have gone out of style and in it's place there are these planks (?) single speakers that are popular now, but the sound sucks pretty hard.

I found some 5.1 systems of course, but the prices are utterly ludicrous and they come with BlueRay players and lots of pointless poo poo. I just want a affordable 5.1 system (or something like that) with a USB connection option for the Steam Link and no extra pointless stuff, but all my experience is at least 15 years old and i was a idiot back then too. Anyone got any suggestions?
I'm in Norway so the products might have different names than American ones, but just post them and i'll figure it out via googling.

Winks
Feb 16, 2009

Alright, who let Rube Goldberg in here?


Partial Octopus posted:

I think you're right. I'll just try setting a minimum speed above where it happens or maybe just try some different fans.

You can try putting some nylon washers on the screws.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!


Dongattack posted:

I'm making a projector/home cinema/couch gaming room atm, to access games/movies/etc in the room i'm using a Steam Link. I'm stuck on finding a sound system that's affordable and makes sense tho, it's been 15+ years since I've bought one and 5.1 systems with a subwoofer and the like seem to have gone out of style and in it's place there are these planks (?) single speakers that are popular now, but the sound sucks pretty hard.

I found some 5.1 systems of course, but the prices are utterly ludicrous and they come with BlueRay players and lots of pointless poo poo. I just want a affordable 5.1 system (or something like that) with a USB connection option for the Steam Link and no extra pointless stuff, but all my experience is at least 15 years old and i was a idiot back then too. Anyone got any suggestions?
I'm in Norway so the products might have different names than American ones, but just post them and i'll figure it out via googling.

I'm not at all familiar with home theater audio stuff but there's a couple of threads in IYG that might be useful:
Getting your first home audio system? Read this.
For your listening pleasure: The quick audio questions megathread!

iddqd
Jul 26, 2007


Grimey Drawer

I've been pretty bored with how well my GTX 780 performs but I can't afford a new card at the moment, even with the falling prices of the generations between the 780 and the 2080. I've started doing some mild overclocks with Precision XOC and I'm noticing I get pretty crappy thermals. My case is the Nanoxia DS4 and there's only 1 intake and 1 exhaust fan, and not a lot of room for air to circulate.

I did notice that on the top of the case is a mesh grate covered with soundproofing material where I could add an extra fan. My question is how can I improve my thermals? With a +97 mhz on the GPU and +200 on the memory (and no voltage increases) it puts me right where I don't get any artifacts but the GPU is nudging on 90 C and my case sounds like its about to lift off.

When I remove the side panel and blast the ceiling fan I get temps that are around 10 C cooler, but I also bought the DS4 to be quiet and blend into the workspace.

Statutory Ape
Sep 12, 2017



Your case supports a 140mm top fan. Have that blowing air out.

You might be able to do something with the fans on the GPU itself too. Also maybe if you dont need all the drive cages you could remove them to increase airflow.

Also changing the other 2 case fans from stock might be good too

If youre dropping 10c from taking panel off youre not breathing enough

iddqd
Jul 26, 2007


Grimey Drawer

Statutory Ape posted:

Your case supports a 140mm top fan. Have that blowing air out.

You might be able to do something with the fans on the GPU itself too. Also maybe if you dont need all the drive cages you could remove them to increase airflow.

Also changing the other 2 case fans from stock might be good too

If youre dropping 10c from taking panel off youre not breathing enough

Thank you. I figured this was the solution but I just needed to hear it from someone smarter than I!

Azuth0667
Sep 20, 2011

By the word of Zoroaster, no business decision is poor when it involves Ahura Mazda.

I've got an 8gb microSD 3.0 card that I think is made by SanDisk that I've had running on a raspberry pi for a little over a year. The raspberry pi froze and when I try to look at the card on a PC with a card reader it locks the PC up. Doesn't matter which OS or the specs of the PC, this card will lock it up.

What happened to this card and can I fix it?

EssOEss
Oct 23, 2006
128-bit approved

Sounds like death happened to the card. Get a new one.

Mister Kingdom
Dec 14, 2005

And the tears that fall
On the city wall
Will fade away
With the rays of morning light

How many portable hard drives (w/o their own power supply) can you attach to a PC at one time?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!


Mister Kingdom posted:

How many portable hard drives (w/o their own power supply) can you attach to a PC at one time?

The ones with no power supply are laptop drives and are getting power from the USB port. You can probably populate every USB port with one and the PC should be able to give them all the 500mA or 900mA @ 5V they want since that's only 2.5 to 4.5 Watts. There may of course be spin-up power draw that's a little higher. If it's a mini PC like a raspberry pi you'll have power limitations due to the RPi needing its own power to power the USB ports.

You could probably daisy chain powered USB hubs and connect hundreds of disks but I wouldn't suggest it without a little bit of research.

JnnyThndrs
May 29, 2001

HERE ARE THE FUCKING TOWELS

Ive found that theoretically you should be able to attach a 2.5 pocket-size external HD to every USB port without issue, but under RL conditions it can get really dicey after two of them unless you use a powered hub. This varies, of course, dependent on motherboard, laptop/desktop, etc.

Also, USB3 has a higher rated wattage output and seems much more reliable than USB2 in term of providing enough power without weird glitches.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009


What CPU would you folks recommend for a non-gaming build? My sis wants me to build her an inexpensive PC. She only uses it for the basic stuff, writing, web surfing, youtube, spotify etc. No gaming or anything graphically intensive. I was thinking of a Ryzen 3 2200G especially since I won't need a GPU if I use that CPU as it has integrated graphics. It's only $100 too. But is this CPU overkill for a system like this? Can anyone recommend a cheaper one that won't show any signs of slowness in normal everyday PC tasks?

Actuarial Fables
Jul 29, 2014



Taco Defender

Charliegrs posted:

What CPU would you folks recommend for a non-gaming build? My sis wants me to build her an inexpensive PC. She only uses it for the basic stuff, writing, web surfing, youtube, spotify etc. No gaming or anything graphically intensive. I was thinking of a Ryzen 3 2200G especially since I won't need a GPU if I use that CPU as it has integrated graphics. It's only $100 too. But is this CPU overkill for a system like this? Can anyone recommend a cheaper one that won't show any signs of slowness in normal everyday PC tasks?

May want to ask in the pc building/part picking thread:
https://forums.somethingawful.com/s...hreadid=3774409

LRADIKAL
Jun 10, 2001

A Very Useful Person

Fun Shoe

I recommend an Intel 1080p Chromebook for this type of setup. You can add a monitor and keyboard if you want, and it is really easy to support.

http://a.co/d/7AScT2l
http://a.co/d/1Tg2zG3

Is there anything a windows PC is needed for in the first place?

As far as cheap desktop processors, here's the new gold standard. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...N82E16819113544

If you want to go that route, take it to the parts picking thread, but it's likely the chromebook will make everyone happier

teagone
Jun 10, 2003

Valyrian, motherfucker! Do you speak it?!

Charliegrs posted:

What CPU would you folks recommend for a non-gaming build? My sis wants me to build her an inexpensive PC. She only uses it for the basic stuff, writing, web surfing, youtube, spotify etc. No gaming or anything graphically intensive. I was thinking of a Ryzen 3 2200G especially since I won't need a GPU if I use that CPU as it has integrated graphics. It's only $100 too. But is this CPU overkill for a system like this? Can anyone recommend a cheaper one that won't show any signs of slowness in normal everyday PC tasks?

https://www.google.com/chromebook/d...-chromebase-24/

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

aaaaaaaaaa
AAAAAAAAAAA
HHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!



Yeah a chromebook or an off-lease used/refurbished desktop pc for $150 would be just fine.

Atomizer
Jun 24, 2007

Bote McBoteface. so what


Anyone have experience with eSATA? I've never used it before, and have a couple of older desktops with eSATA ports, plus I bought a eSATA-USB3 cable for virtual universal compatibility. My main goal is to connect a PATA-to-USB2/eSATA combo enclosure via eSATA to remove the USB2 bottleneck from some old PATA drives, but I also have a 2.5" enclosure that I was going to experiment with to see if the eSATA connection was faster than USB3 for an SSD, and on top of that I've got a dual 2.5" RAID enclosure whose USB2 connection makes RAID0 pointless (of course it bottlenecks a single SATA drive) but would actually be usable over eSATA. The problem is that I can't get any eSATA device to work with any combination of external enclosure, cable, PC, or internal drive.

I've tried with:
- 2 different PCs
- eSATA-eSATA and the aformentioned eSATA-USB3 cables
- 3 different eSATA enclosures
- multiple HDDs

All of those enclosures work with their USB connections, so I know none of the other components are the issue. I tried a direct eSATA connection on one of the PCs with that port onboard, and I made sure it was enabled in the BIOS. None of the systems recognize the eSATA devices, although in a couple of configurations of the components above it appears the host PCs sometimes recognize a device attached, just not that it's a storage medium (there are no new devices in Device Manager.) At worst, the OS hangs until the eSATA device is detached. I've also tried different combinations of the host PC and device power on/off status, as well as varying the point at which the cable is physically connected, to determine if the external device must be powered on and recognized at boot, or must be powered up before the physical connection, etc., and nothing makes a difference.

Like I said, I've never experimented with eSATA before so I can't tell if I'm doing something wrong, if I've got a configuration issue, or if I've inexplicably got multiple hardware issues simultaneously (unlikely.) If anything, the eSATA-USB3 cable should just work and obviate any configuration on the host PC, but it doesn't. Any advice?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!


Atomizer posted:

Anyone have experience with eSATA? I've never used it before, and have a couple of older desktops with eSATA ports, plus I bought a eSATA-USB3 cable for virtual universal compatibility. My main goal is to connect a PATA-to-USB2/eSATA combo enclosure via eSATA to remove the USB2 bottleneck from some old PATA drives, but I also have a 2.5" enclosure that I was going to experiment with to see if the eSATA connection was faster than USB3 for an SSD, and on top of that I've got a dual 2.5" RAID enclosure whose USB2 connection makes RAID0 pointless (of course it bottlenecks a single SATA drive) but would actually be usable over eSATA. The problem is that I can't get any eSATA device to work with any combination of external enclosure, cable, PC, or internal drive.

I've tried with:
- 2 different PCs
- eSATA-eSATA and the aformentioned eSATA-USB3 cables
- 3 different eSATA enclosures
- multiple HDDs

All of those enclosures work with their USB connections, so I know none of the other components are the issue. I tried a direct eSATA connection on one of the PCs with that port onboard, and I made sure it was enabled in the BIOS. None of the systems recognize the eSATA devices, although in a couple of configurations of the components above it appears the host PCs sometimes recognize a device attached, just not that it's a storage medium (there are no new devices in Device Manager.) At worst, the OS hangs until the eSATA device is detached. I've also tried different combinations of the host PC and device power on/off status, as well as varying the point at which the cable is physically connected, to determine if the external device must be powered on and recognized at boot, or must be powered up before the physical connection, etc., and nothing makes a difference.

Like I said, I've never experimented with eSATA before so I can't tell if I'm doing something wrong, if I've got a configuration issue, or if I've inexplicably got multiple hardware issues simultaneously (unlikely.) If anything, the eSATA-USB3 cable should just work and obviate any configuration on the host PC, but it doesn't. Any advice?

I'm not sure about your eSATA to USB3 cable or most of the enclosures, but I've used a 2.5" enclosure that had either eSATA or USB 2 interfaces. If you used eSATA you were supposed to still plug in one of the two USB plugs to give the disk power because eSATA doesn't provide power. There may be other considerations but I'd make sure that you're getting power to the disks as well as the eSATA data connection.

fishmech
Jul 16, 2006

~death to capitalism~
Chrome OS is shit
Every DSA is a cop


Salad Prong

There are also eSATAp or eSATA+ ports and enclosures, they are ports that function as either plain eSATA, plain USB, or both at once to provide power to an enclosure that would otherwise be powered with a plain USB port. You need a slightly different plug from plain eSATA to be sure power is transferred.

It's quite likely that the "eSATA to USB3" cable you have only provides eSATA data and doesn't do power, and your eSATA-eSATA cable also probably isn't one that supports eSATAp. So you'll need to make sure the devices are receiving proper power.

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Atomizer
Jun 24, 2007

Bote McBoteface. so what


Good points, I should've clarified this:
- All of the enclosures have their own power supplies.
- All of the hardware (host PCs, cables, enclosures) is original eSATA, not the powered version.

I could provide links to the peripherals if that helps; everything aside from the PCs is from Amazon (and both PCs are Ivy Bridge, one being a Shuttle XPC.)

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