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Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!






Slippery Tilde

Parallelwoody posted:

Hey so guess who replaced their power supply a couple years ago and didn't know about this. Is there a way to tell which cables are which? I have my PC open right now so and I don't actually remember if I reused any, or mixed and matched, etc. and would like to go ahead and fix it now if there's a simple way to tell or check.

You'd know by now. The bad thing usually begins with a puff of smoke the moment you turn it on afterwards

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Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004

"Hot dog, I love Pittsburgh! No more Steve Simmons, he was the wurst!"


Super boring question -- shopping for a new WiFi router, looking for recs

I don't think we need anything too fancy. House is small enough that our current router (rental from Comcast Xfinity, ugh) gives a signal everywhere, albeit with some weak spots -- it's 2-stories and about 1700 sqft. We also don't have a ton of wireless devices, I think probably <10 wireless devices total, and probably only ever 4-5 connected at a given time. Maybe this will increase in the future, but we're pretty deliberate about avoiding buying "smart" devices unless necessary. Our most bandwidth intensive activities are video streaming and video conferencing for work, fwiw

Our smartphones are WiFi 6 compatible, so I suppose a WiFi 6 router could be nice, but not sure if we really *need* it

Ideally I'd like to spend $250 or less. The Netgear Nighthawk mesh system seems like a cheap way to get both Wifi 6 and a mesh network, but some of the reviews on Amazon made me a bit apprehensive, not sure if they're to be trusted though.

Otherwise seems like the Synology RT2600AC could be a good option for a WiFi 5 router, or if I want to spring for WiFi 6 perhaps a TP Link AX3000, ASUS RT-AX3000.

Am I overthinking this? I'm guessing I'd be perfectly happy with any of these options, so I guess I'm just looking for any big red flags to steer clear...

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

aaaaaaaaaa
AAAAAAAAAAA
HHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!




Parallelwoody posted:

Hey so guess who replaced their power supply a couple years ago and didn't know about this. Is there a way to tell which cables are which? I have my PC open right now so and I don't actually remember if I reused any, or mixed and matched, etc. and would like to go ahead and fix it now if there's a simple way to tell or check.

If you used the wrong cables then things go boom and things smell funny and smoke comes out immediately when you turn on the power.

If you did it a few years ago then escaped certain death and everything should be gravy now.

Parallelwoody
Apr 9, 2008



Well good to know for the future. I went from one good power supply to another so maybe that helped.

Statutory Ape
Sep 12, 2017



Space Gopher posted:

It's out of production, and anything you get from eBay or amazon sellers is a bad knockoff.

weird, i bought 3 from ebay a few months ago that perform identically to the ones i got from MS

just did the usual of not buying from a scrub

Saukkis
May 16, 2003

Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

Parallelwoody posted:

Well good to know for the future. I went from one good power supply to another so maybe that helped.

No, you just got lucky with PSUs that had compatible connectors. Supposedly even PSUs from the same manufacturer may have different pinouts.

ufarn
May 30, 2009


Saukkis posted:

No, you just got lucky with PSUs that had compatible connectors. Supposedly even PSUs from the same manufacturer may have different pinouts.
Corsair have their own totally reassuring chart.

CyberPingu
Sep 15, 2013

Ready To Ruck!





Hoping someone can help out here

Im looking for an audio switcher device, like a KVM for audio i guess, or a mixer

Basically i cant be hosed unplugging my speakers from my laptop and plugging them into my PC and vice versa when i need to and just want a wee switching box for that.

Does anyone have any recommendations?

CyberPingu fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Jul 25, 2020

smax
Nov 9, 2009



CyberPingu posted:

Hoping someone can help out here

Im looking for an audio switcher device, like a KVM for audio i guess, or a mixer

Basically i cant be hosed unplugging my speakers from my laptop and plugging them into my PC and vice versa when i need to and just want a wee switching box for that.

Does anyone have any recommendations?

Take your pick, there's really nothing fancy going on in these boxes.
https://www.amazon.com/3-5-mm-switch/s?k=3.5+mm+switch

Edit: copied the wrong link...

CyberPingu
Sep 15, 2013

Ready To Ruck!





smax posted:

Take your pick, there's really nothing fancy going on in these boxes.
https://www.amazon.com/3-5-mm-switch/s?k=3.5+mm+switch

Edit: copied the wrong link...

Cheers

Fame Douglas
Nov 20, 2013

RELY NOT ON MY HONOR!!! FOR WHEN I OFFER MY WORD OF BOND, I TAKE NOT THAT VOW TO HEART!! CASUALLY, I BRING SHAME TO MY HOUSEHOLD AND RUIN TO THOSE WHO RELY ON MY COMMITMENT, BY SHIRKING MY AVOWED DUTY

Saukkis posted:

No, you just got lucky with PSUs that had compatible connectors. Supposedly even PSUs from the same manufacturer may have different pinouts.

That's because OEMs are the ones actually manufacturing and designing these power supplies, and Corsair (and others) sells power supplies made by multiple OEMs.

SHIT POST MALONE
Feb 4, 2005

I was born down. You know this.


I bought this SSD enclosure but it didn't come with a power adapter for situations when it needs to be actively powered.

From one of the reviews on the device, it looks like I need:

Output: 5VDC, 2.0A | Connector: 3.5mm/1.3mm | Center Positive.

This one is the one I bought but when I plug it into the enclosure, the activity light blinks non-stop which makes me think it's not working correctly?

I mean, it hasn't gone up in smoke but it also hasn't solved my problem of needing an actively powered external enclosure. Did I buy the wrong power adapter?

Hipster_Doofus
Dec 20, 2003

Lovin' every minute of it.

So wait have you put a drive in it yet?

SHIT POST MALONE
Feb 4, 2005

I was born down. You know this.


Yes. It works just fine on my PC.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007



Grimey Drawer

Why do you need an actively powered enclosure?

CyberPingu
Sep 15, 2013

Ready To Ruck!





poo poo POST MALONE posted:

I bought this SSD enclosure but it didn't come with a power adapter for situations when it needs to be actively powered.

From one of the reviews on the device, it looks like I need:

Output: 5VDC, 2.0A | Connector: 3.5mm/1.3mm | Center Positive.

This one is the one I bought but when I plug it into the enclosure, the activity light blinks non-stop which makes me think it's not working correctly?

I mean, it hasn't gone up in smoke but it also hasn't solved my problem of needing an actively powered external enclosure. Did I buy the wrong power adapter?


Find the makers actual site and see if they have a support section.

Lots of companies will be happy to mail you out the correct power adaptor (a lot of times for free).

Ghost Leviathan
Mar 2, 2017

Exploration is ill-advised

So apparently Logitech's quality control has absolutely poo poo the bed in the last couple years or so, and I'm probably going to be returning the second set of speakers in a row. Where should I be looking for some modestly priced, reliable computer speakers?

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007



Grimey Drawer

Ghost Leviathan posted:

So apparently Logitech's quality control has absolutely poo poo the bed in the last couple years or so, and I'm probably going to be returning the second set of speakers in a row. Where should I be looking for some modestly priced, reliable computer speakers?

What's your price range? You could always get an external amp and a decent set of bookshelf speakers.

Fame Douglas
Nov 20, 2013

RELY NOT ON MY HONOR!!! FOR WHEN I OFFER MY WORD OF BOND, I TAKE NOT THAT VOW TO HEART!! CASUALLY, I BRING SHAME TO MY HOUSEHOLD AND RUIN TO THOSE WHO RELY ON MY COMMITMENT, BY SHIRKING MY AVOWED DUTY

Ghost Leviathan posted:

So apparently Logitech's quality control has absolutely poo poo the bed in the last couple years or so, and I'm probably going to be returning the second set of speakers in a row. Where should I be looking for some modestly priced, reliable computer speakers?

I've been very happy with the Creative GigaWorks T20 for many years now.

Pablo Bluth
Sep 7, 2007

I've made a huge mistake.


Ghost Leviathan posted:

So apparently Logitech's quality control has absolutely poo poo the bed in the last couple years or so, and I'm probably going to be returning the second set of speakers in a row. Where should I be looking for some modestly priced, reliable computer speakers?
There's a PC Speaker thread over in Gadgets. I'm more than happy with my Edifier R1280T.

Ghost Leviathan
Mar 2, 2017

Exploration is ill-advised

MarcusSA posted:

What's your price range? You could always get an external amp and a decent set of bookshelf speakers.

Anything around the $50-$150 AUD range. I've got very little experience outside plug-and-play as audio equipment goes. Would prefer something with an external amp, though.

genericnick
Dec 26, 2012



Should I replace my PSU? I built a new system, early in the year, but the Geforce 2070 died after three months. The merchant did some unspecific repairs over a month, but after three days it went back to being a paper weight. Now it's getting replaced, but the old replacement I used for more than a month now didn't need the additional connection from the PSU. Since everything was perfectly stable that is the only part I can't really vouch for. How likely is it that a new fractal PSU would have faulty cables or whatever?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009



genericnick posted:

Should I replace my PSU? I built a new system, early in the year, but the Geforce 2070 died after three months. The merchant did some unspecific repairs over a month, but after three days it went back to being a paper weight. Now it's getting replaced, but the old replacement I used for more than a month now didn't need the additional connection from the PSU. Since everything was perfectly stable that is the only part I can't really vouch for. How likely is it that a new fractal PSU would have faulty cables or whatever?

Is the PSU under warranty? If so I wouldn't replace it without any reason.

If you're asking if the GPU was killed by the PSU it is unlikely but I guess you'll find out. OCCT can show you voltages by rail and you can do a GPU stress test and see what you find.

CJacobs
Apr 17, 2011

Keep on keeping on.


Got a quick sanity check question regarding the limits of my GPU. It's a 2080 Ti, and these things were billed as eating them there vidya games for lunch, but mine still crashes even with no overclock while playing games such as Borderlands 3 or the new Call of Duty at a high res and framerate. I can do high res, or high framerate, but not both. Going to 1440p and around 90 frames on any remotely modern game causes a device lost error. It can easily push more, but it can't sustain it for more than a little bit without getting temperamental. Overclocking does not help with this specific problem from my experience.

The sanity check is: Is this normal behavior? Am I expecting too much out of it? I have no idea where the limits are given that it has like 11 GB of VRAM and barely uses half of it on anything I've played.

CJacobs fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Jul 29, 2020

ufarn
May 30, 2009


Sounds like an issue with thermals/excessive voltage. Sometimes it can be game-specific issues, but it sounds like it happens in a couple of games for you.

By overclocking, do you mean you tried underclocking the GPU to test?

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker

CJacobs posted:

Got a quick sanity check question regarding the limits of my GPU. It's a 2080 Ti, and these things were billed as eating them there vidya games for lunch, but mine still crashes even with no overclock while playing games such as Borderlands 3 or the new Call of Duty at a high res and framerate. I can do high res, or high framerate, but not both. Going to 1440p and around 90 frames on any remotely modern game causes a device lost error. It can easily push more, but it can't sustain it for more than a little bit without getting temperamental. Overclocking does not help with this specific problem from my experience.

The sanity check is: Is this normal behavior? Am I expecting too much out of it? I have no idea where the limits are given that it has like 11 GB of VRAM and barely uses half of it on anything I've played.

Not normal behavior at all, it should run games at its full speed all the time. Fire up a monitoring program and check its temperature/fan speeds/etc. If it is overheating, check and make sure the fans are spinning freely and the heat sink isn't clogged. Otherwise you should RMA it for a replacement.

CJacobs
Apr 17, 2011

Keep on keeping on.


It's not even close to full utilization when this happens. I'm also running on water cooling so it doesn't go above ~40c even under stress testing.

ufarn posted:

Sounds like an issue with thermals/excessive voltage. Sometimes it can be game-specific issues, but it sounds like it happens in a couple of games for you.

By overclocking, do you mean you tried underclocking the GPU to test?

I haven't tried underclocking, no. What I meant was it performs pretty much the same while overclocked as not, as in overclocking doesn't give me any noticeable performance boost and raising the power limit and voltage doesn't solve the problem.

I should note that this is my second 2080 Ti, I had to RMA the first one for other reasons unrelated to performance, and it had this same problem. The likelihood of getting two 2080 Ti's in a row with the same issue seems a little unlikely so could it stem from something else? Power supply/voltage problem maybe? My PSU is 1000w so it's got more than enough wiggle room at the very least.

edit: Of course it also could be that nothing is wrong and the games I'm choosing to push the limits with suck poo poo at optimization. Could just be DX12 being DX12. Running BL3 in DX11 mode for example massively reduces performance but also gets rid of the GPU crashing.

CJacobs fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Jul 29, 2020

CJacobs
Apr 17, 2011

Keep on keeping on.


Alright well, I figured it out it seems. The problem was for some reason completely unrelated to the GPU. My Windows install had the page file size set to the default of 2 GB, and increasing it to like 20 GB fixed the problem completely. No more crashing or really anything of the sort. I tested out COD specifically and it now runs at like 200 fps. I have no idea how these two things are connected.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


CJacobs posted:

Alright well, I figured it out it seems. The problem was for some reason completely unrelated to the GPU. My Windows install had the page file size set to the default of 2 GB, and increasing it to like 20 GB fixed the problem completely. No more crashing or really anything of the sort. I tested out COD specifically and it now runs at like 200 fps. I have no idea how these two things are connected.

That's bizarre, the default in windows is that it manages itself, did you run some ~optimisation~ tool?

vv Well, that's just irritating. Glad you found it and fixed it

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Jul 29, 2020

CJacobs
Apr 17, 2011

Keep on keeping on.


It did say it was being managed by windows, and the size it'd decided was correct was 2 GB. Apparently it's always been this way, I've just somehow never done anything until recently that would cause problems related to it. I hate computers

Taima
Dec 31, 2006




Oh man I have a real head scratcher.

I'm in the process of building a new computer. Like an idiot, I figured "let's just transfer my current components into the new case because it has way better airflow".

So I moved all of my poo poo into the new case, all seemed well, booted.

On boot, it now says "Reboot and Select Proper Boot Device".

Now I'm very familiar with computers and troubleshooting, so I immediately figured the boot priority wasn't configured. Well, the M2 boot SSD shows up directly as the first boot. Even if I boot override directly into the SSD it still presents the same boot device error message.

Literally the ONLY thing that changed in this series of events, is that I have 2x data drives (SATA hard drives) that I disconnected temporarily. They're still disconnected. The ONLY hard drive currently connected to the PC is the M2 SSD boot drive.

Does anyone know what the gently caress is going on here? I even re-seated the M2 drive, which made no sense because it's very securely in there (and showing in BIOS) but I really just can't think of what to do. Help would be greatly appreciated.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009



Taima posted:

Oh man I have a real head scratcher.

I'm in the process of building a new computer. Like an idiot, I figured "let's just transfer my current components into the new case because it has way better airflow".

So I moved all of my poo poo into the new case, all seemed well, booted.

On boot, it now says "Reboot and Select Proper Boot Device".

Now I'm very familiar with computers and troubleshooting, so I immediately figured the boot priority wasn't configured. Well, the M2 boot SSD shows up directly as the first boot. Even if I boot override directly into the SSD it still presents the same boot device error message.

Literally the ONLY thing that changed in this series of events, is that I have 2x data drives (SATA hard drives) that I disconnected temporarily. They're still disconnected. The ONLY hard drive currently connected to the PC is the M2 SSD boot drive.

Does anyone know what the gently caress is going on here? I even re-seated the M2 drive, which made no sense because it's very securely in there (and showing in BIOS) but I really just can't think of what to do. Help would be greatly appreciated.

Maybe the motherboard needs a BIOS update to see the drive? You can usually update most mobos from BIOS.

Taima
Dec 31, 2006




Literally nothing has changed about the computer, I just put it in a new case, is the thing :/ well besides the aforementioned removal of the SATA data drives, which should have no effect that I'm aware of.

Flipperwaldt
Nov 11, 2011

Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?



Sometimes the Windows installer is lovely enough to put some sort of boot partition on the wrong drive, if you have more than one drive connected during the install. So try booting with all drives connected. If that works, there's a fix for it, I think.

Taima
Dec 31, 2006




Flipperwaldt posted:

Sometimes the Windows installer is lovely enough to put some sort of boot partition on the wrong drive, if you have more than one drive connected during the install. So try booting with all drives connected. If that works, there's a fix for it, I think.

Dude you seem to have fixed it. I actually just threw on a lovely old 500gb SSD I had laying around, thinking i could at least gently caress with the partitioning through a different boot drive (it has an older win10 install on it) and poof, boots directly into the m2 ssd like nothing happened. Well thatís fun. Partition fuckery is definitely afoot.

Thanks for the speedy and awesome diagnosis guys!

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



Taima posted:

Dude you seem to have fixed it. I actually just threw on a lovely old 500gb SSD I had laying around, thinking i could at least gently caress with the partitioning through a different boot drive (it has an older win10 install on it) and poof, boots directly into the m2 ssd like nothing happened. Well thatís fun. Partition fuckery is definitely afoot.

Thanks for the speedy and awesome diagnosis guys!

Yeah it's a silly problem with a silly workaround. When you install windows 10 just unplug or disable every disk you don't want to be the system disk because MS just puts the boot partition wherever it wants.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Taima posted:

Dude you seem to have fixed it. I actually just threw on a lovely old 500gb SSD I had laying around, thinking i could at least gently caress with the partitioning through a different boot drive (it has an older win10 install on it) and poof, boots directly into the m2 ssd like nothing happened. Well thatís fun. Partition fuckery is definitely afoot.

Thanks for the speedy and awesome diagnosis guys!

This is also what I would have guessed. The recommendation has always been to unplug other drives when installing windows

Fame Douglas
Nov 20, 2013

RELY NOT ON MY HONOR!!! FOR WHEN I OFFER MY WORD OF BOND, I TAKE NOT THAT VOW TO HEART!! CASUALLY, I BRING SHAME TO MY HOUSEHOLD AND RUIN TO THOSE WHO RELY ON MY COMMITMENT, BY SHIRKING MY AVOWED DUTY

The real recommendation is to disable CSM/Legacy boot and install in UEFI mode. Then this won't happen.

Taima
Dec 31, 2006




Fame Douglas posted:

The real recommendation is to disable CSM/Legacy boot and install in UEFI mode. Then this won't happen.

That actually brings up another weird point. In my BIOS, for my motherboard to see my M2 SSD, it actually needs to be in Legacy+UEFI. If I put it on just UEFI mode, can't see it at all.



It might be because this motherboard is getting pretty long in the tooth. Don't worry, Zen 3/ Ampere is getting installed the minute I can get my grubby little hands on it. This whole case transfer was basically stage one of a complete replacement.


HalloKitty posted:

This is also what I would have guessed. The recommendation has always been to unplug other drives when installing windows

It's just funny because I've probably installed Win10 like 50 times and never done this, and it was never an issue. 51st time the charm I guess.

Taima fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Jul 30, 2020

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Argue
Sep 29, 2005

I represent the Philippines

I have a problem that's quite specific and I don't think it's something that I'll be able to find help for here or in the tech support subforum. What's the best place I can go to for a question about Nintendo Joycon interoperability with a Windows PC? Obviously Nintendo won't give support for that, and I'm using native Windows drivers (which works, save for aforementioned problem) so it's not really a question for one of the third party joycon driver authors.

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