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Lawson
Apr 21, 2006

You're right, I agree.

Total Clam

Alright, this is probably a better place to ask than the laptop megathread:

Lawson posted:

So let's pretend for arguments sake that there is a Dell precision 7530 laptop less than a year old. The laptop has 8 GB single-channel, 2666 MHz RAM. And let's also pretend that somebody (not me) has acquired memory upgrades for it:

1x 8GB single-channel 2666 MHz
1x 16GB dual-channel 2666 MHz

Dell tells me here: https://www.dell.com/support/manual...e28e&lang=en-us that apparently memory modules must be matched:
.
It looks like my options are:

- keep the 8 in B, add the second 8 in D, return the 16
- put the 16 in B, keep the original 8, return the new 8

Is there no way I can use the three memory modules I have now? Which one would you return?

Since that post I calmed down a bit, and now have the impression that although Dell doesn't sell their laptops with only 3 out of 4 RAM slots occupied, nothing catastrophic would happen if I were to just plug in all the modules I have, e.g. as 8+8 and 16+blank.

How sorry am I going to be after trying this?

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Geemer
Nov 4, 2010

What is it with Japan and ridiculous hair colors?



Buglord

Lawson posted:

Alright, this is probably a better place to ask than the laptop megathread:


Since that post I calmed down a bit, and now have the impression that although Dell doesn't sell their laptops with only 3 out of 4 RAM slots occupied, nothing catastrophic would happen if I were to just plug in all the modules I have, e.g. as 8+8 and 16+blank.

How sorry am I going to be after trying this?

Probably not very. At best the laptop runs the 8 + 8 gb in dual channel mode and the 16 gb in single channel. At worst you get system instability and some blue screens. Options in between include running everything in single channel mode and just refusing to boot until you go back to what it expects.
I'd give it a shot and let memtest run overnight to see if it picks up any errors.

yeah ok ok yeah
May 2, 2016



hey, anyone have a recommendation for a good USB DVD-drive? I'd like one with a burner. Blu-ray too I suppose, but i mostly still have DVD and CD ROMs

SHIT POST MALONE
Feb 4, 2005
Probation
Can't post for 19 minutes!


Argue posted:

I have a problem that's quite specific and I don't think it's something that I'll be able to find help for here or in the tech support subforum. What's the best place I can go to for a question about Nintendo Joycon interoperability with a Windows PC? Obviously Nintendo won't give support for that, and I'm using native Windows drivers (which works, save for aforementioned problem) so it's not really a question for one of the third party joycon driver authors.

Get a Mayflash NS2

Epsilon Plus
Dec 30, 2006







Probably an obvious question (and hopefully not too much for the thread) but I'd like to get an opinion before I open my PC back up.

Just upgraded to a Ryzen 9 3900x from a Core i5-7600K. I'm using a nice AIO cooler that used to keep my old i5 at like, 30-35 degrees C idle. Same cooler but this is happening:



(this is from CAM but hwinfo and Ryzen Master report the same numbers, as well as the readout on my mobo, just not with a nice graph)

The Ryzen sucks down more power than the Core i5 I know, and is going to run at least marginally hotter, but that sawtooth temperature graph has me uncomfortable. It hits 65, then drops down to 55 as the fans on my radiator pick up. Even doing a more aggressive fan curve has the same result. I put a load on it using Prime95 and it was hanging around 65-70 degrees, then it suddenly spiked to 95ish. I have a feeling that I probably put either not quite enough thermal paste on the processor or a smidge too much when I was putting it together. Worth redoing it, or should I focus on other troubleshooting?

Epsilon Plus fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Jul 31, 2020

CyberPingu
Sep 15, 2013

Ready To Ruck!





I had this issue with my 3900X and I found that dropping the voltage to 1.05 dropped the idle temp from 45 to 32ish.

Also have you got any random background stuff running. Corsairs iCue caused massive issues with heat spikes (which sucks as I kinda built the system around it)

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Taima posted:

It's just funny because I've probably installed Win10 like 50 times and never done this, and it was never an issue. 51st time the charm I guess.

Yeah, it's not common, but when it does happen, it can be annoying.

Fame Douglas
Nov 20, 2013

RELY NOT ON MY HONOR!!! FOR WHEN I OFFER MY WORD OF BOND, I TAKE NOT THAT VOW TO HEART!! CASUALLY, I BRING SHAME TO MY HOUSEHOLD AND RUIN TO THOSE WHO RELY ON MY COMMITMENT, BY SHIRKING MY AVOWED DUTY

Epsilon Plus posted:

Probably an obvious question (and hopefully not too much for the thread) but I'd like to get an opinion before I open my PC back up.

Just upgraded to a Ryzen 9 3900x from a Core i5-7600K. I'm using a nice AIO cooler that used to keep my old i5 at like, 30-35 degrees C idle. Same cooler but this is happening:



(this is from CAM but hwinfo and Ryzen Master report the same numbers, as well as the readout on my mobo, just not with a nice graph)

The Ryzen sucks down more power than the Core i5 I know, and is going to run at least marginally hotter, but that sawtooth temperature graph has me uncomfortable. It hits 65, then drops down to 55 as the fans on my radiator pick up. Even doing a more aggressive fan curve has the same result. I put a load on it using Prime95 and it was hanging around 65-70 degrees, then it suddenly spiked to 95ish. I have a feeling that I probably put either not quite enough thermal paste on the processor or a smidge too much when I was putting it together. Worth redoing it, or should I focus on other troubleshooting?

Everything is 100% fine, there's nothing to troubleshoot. Enjoy your system.

LRADIKAL
Jun 10, 2001

A Very Useful Person



Fun Shoe

Epsilon Plus posted:

Probably an obvious question (and hopefully not too much for the thread) but I'd like to get an opinion before I open my PC back up.

Just upgraded to a Ryzen 9 3900x from a Core i5-7600K. I'm using a nice AIO cooler that used to keep my old i5 at like, 30-35 degrees C idle. Same cooler but this is happening:



(this is from CAM but hwinfo and Ryzen Master report the same numbers, as well as the readout on my mobo, just not with a nice graph)

The Ryzen sucks down more power than the Core i5 I know, and is going to run at least marginally hotter, but that sawtooth temperature graph has me uncomfortable. It hits 65, then drops down to 55 as the fans on my radiator pick up. Even doing a more aggressive fan curve has the same result. I put a load on it using Prime95 and it was hanging around 65-70 degrees, then it suddenly spiked to 95ish. I have a feeling that I probably put either not quite enough thermal paste on the processor or a smidge too much when I was putting it together. Worth redoing it, or should I focus on other troubleshooting?

Use Argus Monitor to control the fan on a 10 second average. This will flatten out the response to the normal Ryzen fluctuations.

Fame Douglas
Nov 20, 2013

RELY NOT ON MY HONOR!!! FOR WHEN I OFFER MY WORD OF BOND, I TAKE NOT THAT VOW TO HEART!! CASUALLY, I BRING SHAME TO MY HOUSEHOLD AND RUIN TO THOSE WHO RELY ON MY COMMITMENT, BY SHIRKING MY AVOWED DUTY

I increased the fan step down time in the BIOS and set it to spin at a fixed speed up to 70į

Epsilon Plus
Dec 30, 2006







Fame Douglas posted:

Everything is 100% fine, there's nothing to troubleshoot. Enjoy your system.

After doing some research I guess this is just what Zen chips do, huh? I didn't even think to look for info because I've never had a processor do this - the last time I had an AMD chip was back in like, 2005. It feels bizarre, but everyone else lives with it. I guess I'll fiddle with my fans or buy some quieter ones for my radiator. Thanks for the info.

LRADIKAL
Jun 10, 2001

A Very Useful Person



Fun Shoe

Epsilon Plus posted:

After doing some research I guess this is just what Zen chips do, huh? I didn't even think to look for info because I've never had a processor do this - the last time I had an AMD chip was back in like, 2005. It feels bizarre, but everyone else lives with it. I guess I'll fiddle with my fans or buy some quieter ones for my radiator. Thanks for the info.

No, install fan control software that doesn't suck. The end. Even lazier, do what Fame Douglas said. There's no reason to buy more fans.

Rollie Fingers
Jul 28, 2002


Epsilon Plus posted:

Probably an obvious question (and hopefully not too much for the thread) but I'd like to get an opinion before I open my PC back up.

Just upgraded to a Ryzen 9 3900x from a Core i5-7600K. I'm using a nice AIO cooler that used to keep my old i5 at like, 30-35 degrees C idle. Same cooler but this is happening:



(this is from CAM but hwinfo and Ryzen Master report the same numbers, as well as the readout on my mobo, just not with a nice graph)

The Ryzen sucks down more power than the Core i5 I know, and is going to run at least marginally hotter, but that sawtooth temperature graph has me uncomfortable. It hits 65, then drops down to 55 as the fans on my radiator pick up. Even doing a more aggressive fan curve has the same result. I put a load on it using Prime95 and it was hanging around 65-70 degrees, then it suddenly spiked to 95ish. I have a feeling that I probably put either not quite enough thermal paste on the processor or a smidge too much when I was putting it together. Worth redoing it, or should I focus on other troubleshooting?

What size is the AIO? My 3950x used to idle at 45c and hit 90c on load with a Dark Rock Pro 4. Your temps do seem high if your AIO is 240mm or larger.

I changed my cooler to an Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 and now my processor idles at 35c and doesnít get above 75c on load even with an all-core overclock. Iím also using quiet mode for the fan curve. Too little thermal paste or a wonky coldplate could be the culprits if your AIO is decently sized

Lawson
Apr 21, 2006

You're right, I agree.

Total Clam

Geemer posted:

Probably not very. At best the laptop runs the 8 + 8 gb in dual channel mode and the 16 gb in single channel. At worst you get system instability and some blue screens. Options in between include running everything in single channel mode and just refusing to boot until you go back to what it expects.
I'd give it a shot and let memtest run overnight to see if it picks up any errors.

Thanks man. I went ahead just now and so far nothing has blown up. I'll run memtest overnight for the added peace of mind.

Man it's nice to be able to run matlab and webex at the same time.

Weka
May 5, 2019

And if you gaze long into an abyss, you will say `look, no ring.`

I'm looking at purchasing a 4 or 5 TB external harddrive and was wondering if anyone had any thoughts as to the reliability of WD vs Seagate or others.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



Weka posted:

I'm looking at purchasing a 4 or 5 TB external harddrive and was wondering if anyone had any thoughts as to the reliability of WD vs Seagate or others.

Buy a WD Easystore or Elements. Get 8TB to guarantee you're not getting a SMR disk. They go on sale once a month or so for about $120. Seagate uses almost entirely SMR disks for externals and WD has started sneaking in SMR disks in the 2-6TB range. Reliability is a factor but since you always keep all data that's important in at least 2 places it's not the main consideration for this purchase. We tend to post the latest sales in the Packrats Thread if you wanna keep an eye out for them.

I don't see any 8's on sale right now but there's a 10TB Easystore for $170 at Best Buy. It's not the cheapest they've been but it's not too bad:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-eas...black/6278208.p

edit: I wouldn't recommend it but this 5TB portable easystore is $90 at BB right now. No idea what kind of disk is in it (probably a 2.5") or how reliable it'd be with a solid enclosure:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-eas...black/6406512.p

Rexxed fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Aug 1, 2020

DeadFatDuckFat
Oct 29, 2012

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.


Bread Liar

These dumb posts are me
https://forums.somethingawful.com/s...0#post506190117

I really thought it was my mobo. I really did. Asus says theres nothing wrong with it after an rma. The only parts that I haven't swapped out yet are my cpu and psu. I'm gonna try reseating my cpu one last time (once my thermal paste arrives) and I've also ordered a mobo speaker so I can hear some fuckin beeps. I can borrow a friend's psu. God damnit though. I guess I don't actually have a question to ask here, or maybe I just forgot it already. Sorry. I just needed to vent a little. I'll probably create a haus thread if I'm still hosed.

Weka
May 5, 2019

And if you gaze long into an abyss, you will say `look, no ring.`

Rexxed posted:

Buy a WD Easystore or Elements. Get 8TB to guarantee you're not getting a SMR disk. They go on sale once a month or so for about $120. Seagate uses almost entirely SMR disks for externals and WD has started sneaking in SMR disks in the 2-6TB range. Reliability is a factor but since you always keep all data that's important in at least 2 places it's not the main consideration for this purchase. We tend to post the latest sales in the Packrats Thread if you wanna keep an eye out for them.

I don't see any 8's on sale right now but there's a 10TB Easystore for $170 at Best Buy. It's not the cheapest they've been but it's not too bad:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-eas...black/6278208.p

edit: I wouldn't recommend it but this 5TB portable easystore is $90 at BB right now. No idea what kind of disk is in it (probably a 2.5") or how reliable it'd be with a solid enclosure:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-eas...black/6406512.p

Thanks this has been really useful despite my foolishly failing to mention it has to be USB powered.
Also, I live in New Zealand, so my options are limited. No best buy.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



Weka posted:

Thanks this has been really useful despite my foolishly failing to mention it has to be USB powered.
Also, I live in New Zealand, so my options are limited. No best buy.

The USB powered units are usually laptop drives inside since USB 3.0 ports can deliver around 10 watts. I've found they have similar failure rates between brands and (as far as I know) none of them are SMR, so you should be okay to buy whichever you can find cheapest.

SHIT POST MALONE
Feb 4, 2005
Probation
Can't post for 19 minutes!


MarcusSA posted:

Why do you need an actively powered enclosure?

I was troubleshooting an issue with loading GameCube backups on my Wii from the SSD.

I ended up just moving away from the SSD entirely and now I load both Wii and GCN games from a single SD card. The access time is slower but once it loads the game list in WiiFlow, you can't notice the difference. Added bonus is that I don't have an external storage device hooked up to the Wii.

Fame Douglas
Nov 20, 2013

RELY NOT ON MY HONOR!!! FOR WHEN I OFFER MY WORD OF BOND, I TAKE NOT THAT VOW TO HEART!! CASUALLY, I BRING SHAME TO MY HOUSEHOLD AND RUIN TO THOSE WHO RELY ON MY COMMITMENT, BY SHIRKING MY AVOWED DUTY

Rexxed posted:

The USB powered units are usually laptop drives inside since USB 3.0 ports can deliver around 10 watts. I've found they have similar failure rates between brands and (as far as I know) none of them are SMR, so you should be okay to buy whichever you can find cheapest.

Pretty much every external USB drive (and 2.5" drive in general) starting from 1 TB is SMR these days. I think only Toshiba still makes non-SMR 1 TB drives, and the larger capacities are guaranteed to be SMR.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



Fame Douglas posted:

Pretty much every external USB drive (and 2.5" drive in general) starting from 1 TB is SMR these days. I think only Toshiba still makes non-SMR 1 TB drives, and the larger capacities are guaranteed to be SMR.

Ugh, I didn't know that, but there's not a lot of choice at that point, besides a huge expensive SSD, I guess!

GnarlyCharlie4u
Sep 23, 2007

I have an unhealthy obsession with motorcycles.

Proof


yeah ok ok yeah posted:

hey, anyone have a recommendation for a good USB DVD-drive? I'd like one with a burner. Blu-ray too I suppose, but i mostly still have DVD and CD ROMs

pretty much anything Lenovo or LG branded has done right by me.

Weka
May 5, 2019

And if you gaze long into an abyss, you will say `look, no ring.`

Thank you both!

GnarlyCharlie4u
Sep 23, 2007

I have an unhealthy obsession with motorcycles.

Proof


Weka posted:

Thank you both!

If you don't want to use an external power supply then get something newer that has just the single USB port. For some reason early ones without external power REALLY sucked even when using the additional usb power adapter.
You'll probably be fine if whatever you get has USB 3.0 support.

Touchdown Boy
Apr 1, 2007

I saw my friend there out on the field today, I asked him where he's going, he said "All the way."

Ive been using a Dell USB 104-Key Mechanical Multimedia Keyboard w/Volume Knob SK-8135 (https://imgur.com/vuMFlH7) for years now, it was the standard one that came with a PC I got about 8 years ago so I am thinking Im about due an upgrade. I was looking around and it seems like the volume feature is either seperate these days or some sort of scroll bar I dont like the look of.

I dont want to spend a fortune on some fancy gamer keyboard with lights and all that stuff and was wondering if Goons can suggest me something affordable and of a similar/same design? Im in the UK.

Ive seen you can get media control knob on a seperate usb line but not sure I want that either.

SHIT POST MALONE
Feb 4, 2005
Probation
Can't post for 19 minutes!


That is a membrane keyboard, not a mechanical keyboard.

If you do want a mechanical keyboard that isn't stupid with lights AND has a volume wheel, check out the Das Keyboard 4 Pro

https://www.daskeyboard.com/daskeyboard-4-professional/

Touchdown Boy
Apr 1, 2007

I saw my friend there out on the field today, I asked him where he's going, he said "All the way."

poo poo POST MALONE posted:

That is a membrane keyboard, not a mechanical keyboard.

If you do want a mechanical keyboard that isn't stupid with lights AND has a volume wheel, check out the Das Keyboard 4 Pro

https://www.daskeyboard.com/daskeyboard-4-professional/

Oh my bad. I thought it was mechanical. Its held up well over the years either way. Ive read a lot that membrane keyboards are worse, in peoples experience does it matter all that much?

That keyboard is really nice. Its about £150-200 though, but Ill definitely short list it as its basically perfect except the price point (thought from looking around 100+ seems to be the price these days). Cheers.

Touchdown Boy fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Aug 1, 2020

SHIT POST MALONE
Feb 4, 2005
Probation
Can't post for 19 minutes!


You can always post in the keyboard recommendations thread too


https://forums.somethingawful.com/s...&pagenumber=131

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009



Touchdown Boy posted:

Oh my bad. I thought it was mechanical. Its held up well over the years either way. Ive read a lot that membrane keyboards are worse, in peoples experience does it matter all that much?

That keyboard is really nice. Its about £150-200 though, but Ill definitely short list it as its basically perfect except the price point (thought from looking around 100+ seems to be the price these days). Cheers.

I use a razer deathadder (mouse) and have the sensitivity up/down buttons mapped to volume control and its way nicer than a seperate knob. Something to try maybe?

Touchdown Boy
Apr 1, 2007

I saw my friend there out on the field today, I asked him where he's going, he said "All the way."

poo poo POST MALONE posted:

You can always post in the keyboard recommendations thread too


https://forums.somethingawful.com/s...&pagenumber=131

Noted, I didnt see that thread. I will check it out. Im actually thinking of going with your suggestion, but will check around just in case. Call me old, but I really dont want colourful crap around my keys. It helps I managed to find it at a more reasonable price (£120... still a lot, but as long as it lasts a few years Im game)

VelociBacon posted:

I use a razer deathadder (mouse) and have the sensitivity up/down buttons mapped to volume control and its way nicer than a seperate knob. Something to try maybe?

Wow, now theres an idea. Ill take this on board too. Thanks.

Drink-Mix Man
Mar 4, 2003

You are an odd fellow, but I must say... you throw a swell shindig.

Speaking of keyboards, I've got a laptop keyboard with dead keys. I've already replaced the keyboard but the issue persists. What else could it be?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009



Drink-Mix Man posted:

Speaking of keyboards, I've got a laptop keyboard with dead keys. I've already replaced the keyboard but the issue persists. What else could it be?

Is it a mac? Logic board?

Drink-Mix Man
Mar 4, 2003

You are an odd fellow, but I must say... you throw a swell shindig.

VelociBacon posted:

Is it a mac? Logic board?

Not sure what a Logic board is. It's a Lenovo Ideapad.

EoRaptor
Sep 13, 2003




Drink-Mix Man posted:

Not sure what a Logic board is. It's a Lenovo Ideapad.

Is the ribbon cable between the keyboard and the mainboard connected correctly? Does the 'plug' look undamaged, with the retaining bar/slip properly locking in to place? Any damage to the MB around the socket?

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?


Best way to run diagnostics on a computer with a dead hard drive? I want to make sure everything else works before putting in a replacement.

smax
Nov 9, 2009



Rinkles posted:

Best way to run diagnostics on a computer with a dead hard drive? I want to make sure everything else works before putting in a replacement.

Live CD or bootable USB key?

Azhais
Feb 5, 2007


Cybernetic Crumb

I always used to use https://www.ultimatebootcd.com/

I have no idea how up to date it is these days

TheParadigm
Dec 10, 2009



Rinkles posted:

Best way to run diagnostics on a computer with a dead hard drive? I want to make sure everything else works before putting in a replacement.

Linux's Universal USB Installer tool is amazing; and I keep a Knoppix distro around just to check if things can boot.

Its a barebones/simple/possibly outdated distro but the neat thing it does is preload a poo poo ton of drivers so its basically as compatable as possible with everything; no hunting for wi-fi.

Since linux can read NTFS its also incredibly useful for simply copying files or doing backup/drive cloning too.

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MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007



Grimey Drawer

Is there a reason to hook a monitor up via display port vs using the HDMI port?

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