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Rinkles posted:The problem for me was that the wifi signal was weak and inconsistent That is what Powerline is for - but with many electrical installations, Powerline isn't a solution for bridging larger distances. And with some connection types, the interference Powerline causes will degrade the internet connection. It's a very inconsistent technology.
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Aug 9, 2020 00:07
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My WiFi goes to poo poo when we use the microwave but the powerline doesn't skip a beat
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Aug 9, 2020 00:08
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repiv posted:My WiFi goes to poo poo when we use the microwave but the powerline doesn't skip a beat 5 GHz WiFi doesn't have that issue. Powerline is terrible technology that can be useful.
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Aug 9, 2020 00:08
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"Terrible" technology that gets me 500mbits actual bandwidth to the router at 1-2ms additional latency and no problems with interference or stability I'm not seeing the problem here 
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Aug 9, 2020 00:11
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It's still terrible technology that won't work for many use cases and that causes tons of interference issues. You really don't need to be so defensive. Also, I'm highly skeptical you're getting 500 Mbit/s through Powerline, that's pretty much impossible outside of very ideal conditions.
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Aug 9, 2020 00:12
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repiv posted:"Terrible" technology that gets me 500mbits actual bandwidth to the router at 1-2ms additional latency and no problems with interference or stability Yeah same. If dude is having issues with this wifi try the powerline stuff. Just order it from amazon and if it doesn't work ship it back
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Aug 9, 2020 00:12
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From user reviews, it seems to be a very ymmv technology
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Aug 9, 2020 00:13
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Fame Douglas posted:It's still terrible technology that won't work for many use cases and that causes tons of interference issues. You really don't need to be so defensive. Come on now. We are just saying it works for us and you are saying it's terrible. There is like no harm in him trying it to see if it works for his particular setup since his wifi is flaky. I've had poo poo experience with wifi extenders (short of a very expensive mesh setup) so powerline isn't the worst solution.
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Aug 9, 2020 00:14
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Fame Douglas posted:Also, I'm highly skeptical you're getting 500 Mbit/s through Powerline, that's pretty much impossible outside of very ideal conditions. I'll admit I haven't observed it actually pushing 500mbit/s (that's the link speed reported by the adapters) but whatever the actual bandwidth is it's faster than my internet connection so it doesn't really matter.
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Aug 9, 2020 00:18
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repiv posted:I'll admit I haven't observed it actually pushing 500mbit/s (that's the link speed reported by the adapters) but whatever the actual bandwidth is it's faster than my internet connection so it doesn't really matter. You're lucky to get 10% of the link speed with Powerline, there's no way you're even close to 500 Mbit/s. With WiFi, it's about 50%, and with Ethernet, about 90%
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Aug 9, 2020 00:27
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MarcusSA posted:Come on now. We are just saying it works for us and you are saying it's terrible. I very much agree with this, Powerline can absolutely work well. WiFi extenders are pretty much always terrible, including mesh setups. Without an Ethernet backbone (or even Powerline), extending WiFi isn't easily done.
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Aug 9, 2020 00:29
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You're weirdly upset about powerline adapters, my dude. You say "don't be so defensive" while practically foaming at the mouth to attack. From the problems you describe it sounds like you had a bad experience with the technology due to bad wiring. Of course you're gonna get bad results if the transfer medium sucks, just like trying to get wifi through reinforced concrete walls.
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Aug 9, 2020 00:38
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Powerline adapter viability is completely anecdotal. If a powerline adapter is on the same circuit of another appliance or device that consumes a lot of power — for example, like a treadmill or something — the powerline speeds will absolutely bottom out, making the internet/network completely unsuable. I know this because I lived in a condo for roughly 2 years where I had to use powerline adapters to thread ethernet since I wasn't really allowed to drill holes in the walls and whenever I or my roomate were using the treadmill, one set of powerline adapters would just poo poo themselves completely.
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Aug 9, 2020 01:18
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I have an older house that has thick lathe-n-plaster walls which absolutely destroy wi-fi, both old school and 5ghz, unless you’re within line-of-sight. It also has most of its original 110V wiring where every outlet in the house runs through one of two fuses, so it should be a rough go for Powerline, as well. After loving around with several routers and locations, I gave powerline adaptors a shot, I’m using some inexpensive TP-link 600mb adaptors. The good: rock-solid speeds, no drop-outs, no connection weirdness, no interference hassle, it acts just like a wired connection except: The bad: nowhere near a 600mb connection, more like 120-150mb/s. Overall, I’m happy with ‘em, I still have plenty of bandwidth to watch TV, I’m not transferring giant files to my bedroom PC on the reg. Just take the speed rating with a grain of salt. Edit: this is just my experience, YMMV, obviously. JnnyThndrs fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Aug 9, 2020 |
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Aug 9, 2020 02:29
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Another YMMV review. Used powerhome adapters for a device that wasn't near any ethernet ports, and did not have wifi capability. Worked pretty well. I also helped a relative with using G.hn (the new powerline technology standard) and it worked splendidly. The only problem is that G.hn is so new, tp-link doesn't have a G.hn to wifi adapter available yet. Now he's been using it for months with no problems.
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Aug 9, 2020 04:13
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I generally tell people that powerline adapters are only as good as their home's wiring. I've had some good luck, and some bad luck. In my current apartment, if I use the outlet behind my couch it can reach the router - but if I try with an outlet down the hall, no contact is made.
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Aug 9, 2020 05:40
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teagone posted:Powerline adapter viability is completely anecdotal. If a powerline adapter is on the same circuit of another appliance or device that consumes a lot of power — for example, like a treadmill or something — the powerline speeds will absolutely bottom out, making the internet/network completely unsuable. I know this because I lived in a condo for roughly 2 years where I had to use powerline adapters to thread ethernet since I wasn't really allowed to drill holes in the walls and whenever I or my roomate were using the treadmill, one set of powerline adapters would just poo poo themselves completely. The problem isn't power consumption; it'd probably be just fine with a space heater or other high-powered resistive load. Treadmills are a worst-case scenario: they run a powerful motor, and typically use a cheap, simple DC motor drive that rectifies and chops the incoming AC waveform to get smooth-enough variable speed control for not too much money. This halfassed PWM creates all kinds of ugly harmonics and noise that will mess with something like a powerline networking signal. It's usually possible to reduce the impact of noisy appliances by throwing an EMI filter on them. You can buy them from Amazon (be careful of weird pseudosciency crap from people worried about power lines, though) or Digikey.
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Aug 9, 2020 07:15
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Fame Douglas posted:You're lucky to get 10% of the link speed with Powerline, there's no way you're even close to 500 Mbit/s. With WiFi, it's about 50%, and with Ethernet, about 90% You got me curious so I tested it properly, the actual throughput is about 140mbit. Nowhere near the reported link speed, but plenty sufficient for my 74mbit internet connection.
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Aug 9, 2020 14:32
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Space Gopher posted:The problem isn't power consumption; it'd probably be just fine with a space heater or other high-powered resistive load. Treadmills are a worst-case scenario: they run a powerful motor, and typically use a cheap, simple DC motor drive that rectifies and chops the incoming AC waveform to get smooth-enough variable speed control for not too much money. This halfassed PWM creates all kinds of ugly harmonics and noise that will mess with something like a powerline networking signal. Neat info! Thanks 
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Aug 9, 2020 14:51
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When powerline adaptors were first introduced, there was a lot of push-back from HAM radio operators because they cause interface over a broad range of frequencies. Perhaps Fame Douglas is in to a bit of Ham? https://www.ban-plt.org.uk/
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Aug 9, 2020 15:10
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I have my monitors mounted on Monoprice dual gas-spring monitor arms, like this: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=24588. It's about 2-3" too short at max height, and is killing my neck. i.e. I need just enough height that I can't just put some cut up 2x4 under the base. to get there. Any ideas of how to get that extra 2-3 inches? Either something I can jury rig at Home Depot or something I can cheaply buy online? Chuu fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Aug 10, 2020 |
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Aug 10, 2020 14:03
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Chuu posted:I have my monitors mounted on Monoprice dual gas-spring monitor arms, like this: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=24588. Maybe a couple of offset adapters: https://smile.amazon.com/VIVO-Adjustable-Accessory-Individual-Stand-VAD3/dp/B0741CFJVW/ Check the hole spacing for compatibility, those say they are 75 or 100mm so probably fine. You could DIY it with some metal plates and a drill but then you'd be buying screws and any overlap would cause the screws to be unable to be put into every hole. If you've got a friend with a 3d printer there's some models for an offset adapter on thingiverse. My slicer guesstimates 172g of filament for one, so probably around $4 worth of plastic and 15 hours or so to print each one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876482 Oh and you'll need hardware for that, too, the thingiverse description says M4x0.7mm is the right stuff for VESA threads.
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Aug 10, 2020 14:12
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Rexxed posted:Maybe a couple of offset adapters: This is perfect, thank you!
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Aug 10, 2020 16:39
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teagone posted:Everything was installed properly, twice over since he was working with an RMA unit when I started to help him, and it still had the same issue. He ended up just ordering a Dark Rock Pro 4. Coming back to this, my friend with the 10700K and Corsair H115i RGB Pro XT AIO cooler issues got his PC up and running with the Dark Rock Pro 4 no problem. So I guess he just struck out twice with that specific Corsair AIO? Unlucky. He's sworn off AIOs and RGB anything forever now I think, lmao. I had him monitor his temps in HWiNFO with the 10700K and the DRP4—here are idle temps with stock fan curve (idle CPU fan speed stays around 700 RPM on average):  These were his temps after about an hour of playing Breath of the Wild via Cemu (CPU fan speed was 1100 RPM on average while playing, peaked at 1300 RPM):  From what I can tell, those numbers seem pretty solid right? He's playing GTFO atm and said his CPU temp maxed out at 61 C. I was expecting the temps to be much higher tbh, because everything I've read led me to believe Comet Lake runs super hot. I don't know what the ambient room temp is though, so it's possible my friend has the AC blasting or something. teagone fucked around with this message at 08:39 on Aug 11, 2020 |
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Aug 11, 2020 08:33
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Yeah they look great.
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Aug 11, 2020 11:14
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I posted some months ago that my GTX 1080 Ti was glitching out on one DP output, which I solved by just switching to DP daisy chaining. Well, today I came from work and found that all 3 DisplayPort outputs are completely nonfunctional. Only the single HDMI output works. I tried driver reinstalls and new cables, naturally, but no go. Is there anything I should try? Or is this a dead/crippled card for sure?
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Aug 11, 2020 17:15
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I am trying to decide on a CPU for a new build. I have an ultrawide 3840x1600 144Hz monitor, so the bottleneck in this system will probably be the GPU not the CPU. I've been looking through benchmarks to help choose a processor, but nearly all benchmarks are for gaming at 1080 60Hz. Those benchmarks do me little good, since they're probably not reflecting the bottleneck I'll be facing with my machine. Is anyone aware of a source of high quality benchmarks where I can compare CPU performance on monitors >1080 and refresh rates >60? Or, maybe someone in this thread has a reasonable answer: How much gaming performance increase should I expect from getting a top-end CPU (e.g., Ryzen 3950X) in such a machine, vs. getting a high-mid tier CPU (e.g., Ryzen 3700)? Assume I will be getting a 3080Ti GPU.
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Aug 11, 2020 18:25
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Chimp_On_Stilts posted:I am trying to decide on a CPU for a new build. I have an ultrawide 3840x1600 144Hz monitor, so the bottleneck in this system will probably be the GPU not the CPU. I've been looking through benchmarks to help choose a processor, but nearly all benchmarks are for gaming at 1080 60Hz. Having done this same research the reason the benchmarks are all 1080p is because above that they are way less CPU bound to the point it kinda doesn’t matter. I was going to upgrade my i7 to and i9 but anything above 1080p I saw like very small gains making it not worth the purchase. If it’s just for gaming get a high mid tier and you’ll be fine. If you are doing other stuff which would be more CPU intense I’d say maybe get the faster one but just for gaming I’d say no. Definitely spend the money on a GPU though.
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Aug 11, 2020 18:45
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Get a GPU first, and examine your performance from that point.
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Aug 11, 2020 18:49
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LRADIKAL posted:Get a GPU first, and examine your performance from that point. My current processor is 7 years old and will *definitely* bottleneck any new GPU, so this kind of testing isn't an option unfortunately.
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Aug 11, 2020 19:00
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I have an HDD in my case that's clicking loudly. It's probably 10-15 years old at this point. Ordinarily I wouldn't mind if it was only in use every so often, but it's also the only drive that Windows will accept for File History. I can't find any way to tell it to use the silent other HDD that it can't even see so the clicking is now driving me crazy. My question is: What can I do to stop the clicking? Should I be concerned about the drive otherwise? It scans fine in everything but CrystalDiskInfo which tells me it's just got some bad unallocated sectors. tuyop fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Aug 12, 2020 |
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Aug 12, 2020 20:35
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Chimp_On_Stilts posted:My current processor is 7 years old and will *definitely* bottleneck any new GPU, so this kind of testing isn't an option unfortunately. Why not? Buy new one. Put in computer. Try performance.
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Aug 12, 2020 20:42
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tuyop posted:I have an HDD in my case that's clicking loudly. It's probably 10-15 years old at this point. Ordinarily I wouldn't mind if it was only in use every so often, but it's also the only drive that Windows will accept for File History. I can't find any way to tell it to use the silent other HDD that it can't even see so the clicking is now driving me crazy. That hard disk is dying, move everything off of it you need. Hard drives are very cheap now and you might be able to image it before it dies if you're quick and it's not too far gone already. I've never used file history but I'm sure you can make it work on another drive that's not about to give out.
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Aug 12, 2020 20:58
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Rexxed posted:That hard disk is dying, move everything off of it you need. Hard drives are very cheap now and you might be able to image it before it dies if you're quick and it's not too far gone already. I've never used file history but I'm sure you can make it work on another drive that's not about to give out. Yeah that's what I figured.  I have another drive of unknown age that's still going strong and I did the random shot in the dark act of copying the folder called "FileHistory" over and it worked! I'll just pop this clicky piece of poo poo out and send it to e-waste. Oh well.
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Aug 12, 2020 21:08
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Yeah don't bother with an HDD that old. Be happy it didn't abruptly die.
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Aug 12, 2020 21:08
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tuyop posted:I have an HDD in my case that's clicking loudly. It's probably 10-15 years old at this point. Wow, what a good lad. Something I've wondered about before, do drives deteriorate much with age if unused?
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Aug 12, 2020 21:11
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I have two/three PCs connected to a dell kvm/monitor. The KVM doesn’t do audio, so I’m using the USB switching to move a USB sound card between machines. Then out of the sound card and into some speakers over digital coax, and out of the sound cards line out to a Bluetooth transmitter. I can listen via the speakers when I’m alone, and wear headphones when I’m not. All well and good, but not really. - I have no audio in so video conferencing is strenuous at best - as the KVM just emulates unplug/plugging the device in, when the soundcard on one machine disappears, audio just gets moved to the next output device and that’s usually the inbuilt speakers. - one of the machines has decided that the USB soundcard doesn’t exist, and now I get nothing. Is there anything out there that’ll make all of this “just work”. Ideally I want to listen to audio from multiple machines, and have it output to multiple outputs.
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Aug 12, 2020 21:16
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Ok so I was updating to Windows 10 2004 (because Windows said my current version was out of date via a prompt) and then this happened during one of the reboots, I’m guessing that Windows update deleted the MBR from the drive during the update or it got corrupted somehow. I’ve checked the bios and the it still sees the drive and the boot order is correct. If I manually select the drive via boot order it still gives the same error. What are my options here? I really don’t want to nuke the drive and start over. I have a few other Windows 10 PCs but I don’t know if Windows 10 can make me a diagnostic USB boot drive. How hosed am I?
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Aug 12, 2020 21:42
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MarcusSA posted:Ok so I was updating to Windows 10 2004 (because Windows said my current version was out of date via a prompt) and then this happened during one of the reboots, If you can get your hands on a piece of recovery media you can try going into the command line on that and using the fixmbr and bootrec commands. A la this guide: https://www.pcworld.com/article/3113585/how-to-repair-windows-master-boot-record-and-fix-your-bricked-pc.html
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Aug 12, 2020 21:47
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Assuming the supply issues aren't still completely broken - looking for a rec on a webcam. Have been doing tons of teams meetings since March without a camera, but it's been requested that I get one. I've installed an app to use my iphone in the meantime,but positioning it is a bit of a pain and think I'd just prefer an actual webcam that I can attach to the edge of a monitor. I assume a majority of them come with built in mics, though it's not needed. I have a decent little directional mic already. So - recs on a webcam for typical work from home team meetings? Doesn't have to be anything fancy, though it would be nice to be a step above grainy garbage.
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Aug 12, 2020 21:54
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