|
Shooting Blanks posted:Got it. bequiet had it recommending a minimum 750W, so does the Nvidia spec sheet. Thanks! A lot of those recommendations are based on them assuming people will buy the cheapest garbage power supply they can. Usually better quality ones will handle the load better. The main thing to be aware of is that most power supplies are at maximum efficiency (the least wall power turned into computer power) around 50% load. They're not quite as good above that but the 80+ spec has specific efficiency numbers for them to hit. Power supplies will also lose some capacity as they get older but generally if you buy a good power supply like an EVGA G5 they're warrantied for 10 years because they expect them to continue working well for that long. I can't guarantee you won't have problems but I wouldn't think that that would be too much power draw for that PSU. Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:The quality of rewritable discs can vary pretty heavily, with cheap ones prone to write failures and data corruption over time. I have absolutely no idea what the decent brands are now (I wasn't even aware they still sold CD-Rs), but Verbatim was considered a high-quality brand back in the '00s. It's always possible that they're just coasting on that reputation now and there's no difference between them and their cheaper competition nowadays, though. Most big names would use different OEMs for their discs. I used to buy spindles of Taiyo Yuden from bulk media suppliers just to be sure I'd get better discs after a lot of the commercial ones would have the top foil flake off or weird dye issues after just a couple of years. Now I just keep stuff on a NAS full of 8tb discs. Fantastic Foreskin posted:Is there a meaningful quality difference between Verbatim and Windata CD-Rs? Microcenter carries both and the former are twice the price, so either Windata is cheaping out, or Verbatim is hoping people will think Windata is cheaping out, but nobody cares about CR-Rs anymore so google has nothing. (I'm making backups for old videogame systems, before anyone asks). You really never know what discs are in a branded spindle unless you buy for a specific OEM. If you want your discs to last consider spending more for something guaranteed to be good quality. I can't say that either brand you're looking at will be good or bad but expect about 5 years from them, more if you're lucky. If you need archival discs there's specific discs for that but at that point CDs wouldn't be my first choice; there are optical disks that hold a lot more data in about the same form factor these days that are made to last a long time. I'd assume if you're buying CD-Rs now it's to play music in your car with an old head unit or something.
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2022 08:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 22:38 |
|
|
Shooting Blanks posted:I'm getting mixed answers online, figured I'd ask here: I'm running a 3600 and a 3070 on a 550w psu and I've never once had a problem, been a year and a bit now. I think the 5600 drinks a little more power than the 3600? But either way I can't imagine nearly enough more to need more than 650w
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2022 10:25
|
|
|
I've been researching PC (gaming) audio, various onboard options and sound cards, etc. And I keep seeing people mention an external USB DAC/amp as an alternative. Anyone here use a USB DAC / amp instead of onboard audio for PC gaming? how's that work, exactly? what software/hardware do you need? it bypasses the motherboard audio chipset entirely?
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 00:57
|
|
|
pmchem posted:I've been researching PC (gaming) audio, various onboard options and sound cards, etc. And I keep seeing people mention an external USB DAC/amp as an alternative. For gaming any onboard is fine. Externals are audiophile gear.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 02:30
|
|
|
I've been considering one because the front ports on my case carry all the noise the unshielded cable picks up along the way and the rear ports are too far away for my headset mic. But other than that scenario, or your onboard stuff being broken, there's probably little use getting one.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 12:05
|
|
|
If you aren't an audiophile looking for the best possible audio experience but are still unhappy with your onboard audio (maybe it isn't quite as clean as you'd prefer), then get Apple's USB-C to 3.5mm adapter. It's $9 at the apple store, and yet it's somehow a top-tier USB DAC. There are better ones out there, but they're all hundreds of dollars and meant for audiophiles. If you don't have a USB-C port, you can simply use an A-to-C adapter. I believe windows sees this as a separate audio device, and it bypasses your onboard audio. An amp may be needed if you have a fancy, expensive high-impedance set of headphones, but you will not need one for most ordinary headphones.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 12:26
|
|
|
The other use case I can think of is if you have a bunch of unpowered speakers you want to hook up to the PC. In that case I needed a combination DAC and amp to pass sound and power through. Although if you have a set of unpowered speakers, chances are they came with a receiver and amp that can accept optical/usb in.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 12:31
|
|
|
Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:If you aren't an audiophile looking for the best possible audio experience but are still unhappy with your onboard audio (maybe it isn't quite as clean as you'd prefer), then get Apple's USB-C to 3.5mm adapter. It's $9 at the apple store, and yet it's somehow a top-tier USB DAC. There are better ones out there, but they're all hundreds of dollars and meant for audiophiles. If you don't have a USB-C port, you can simply use an A-to-C adapter. I believe windows sees this as a separate audio device, and it bypasses your onboard audio. Is that also a combo jack? As in, does it accept microphone input if I use a 3.5mm headset that goes to a single plug (be it through a splitter or just natively)?
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 12:48
|
|
|
I'm diving down a rabbit hole and could use some slightly more informed direction. I've been WFH for years... and largely been doing things not corporate kosher by running work software on a VM from my personal machine. I'm thinking about throwing my work laptop behind a kvm so I can more readily use it and still use my desk as intended. I have used a kvm before, but we're talking 15+ years ago, and in a more corporate environment, it's more direct/easier to figure some of this out... but integrating my personal layout is a bit more overwhelming... equipment layout: 2x27" 144hz 1440p display port monitors USB DAC, USB Mic, USB webcam, keyboard and mouse - all Type A connectors. My personal machine DOES have a type c input - but is currently unused. As you can imagine with the monitors, I do game - but from what I've been able to gather, input lag should be minimal if I can use a hardware switch interface vs keyboard input detection on the kvm. I'm not an ultra-mega-competitive gamer, but FPSs can suffer input lag issues which would get maddening. Work laptop is a fairly recent thinkpad with type c as well. If I could, I'd like to be able to move all my peripherals between the two machines - work meetings are through MS teams and the audio/webcam is a joke on the laptop. Being able to use what I have been with my VM would be a nice add if I can make the jump through KVM. Does it make sense to get a type c hub, and migrate all my usb connections to that and then get a kvm to handle the switching there? Is that even feasible or will there be hardware disconnect issues, etc? Beverly Cleavage fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Jan 16, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 18:03
|
|
|
Dual-headed KVMs capable of handling 2x1440@144Hz are a bit slim pickings. Fwiw I use this usb 3.0 switch with integrated 4 port hub and the built in input switching on my monitors to switch between my desktop and my work laptop (using three monitors). Since the monitors will wake and auto-switch when they detect an active input it is as easy as pressing the usb-switch button and wiggling the mouse. That should work for you if you have a usb-A port on the laptop. If you don't have multiple DP inputs on your monitors I would suggest keeping your desktop as the DP input and setting up your laptop to use the HDMI input using the HDMI port that your laptop almost certainly has and an easy to get USB-C to HDMI cable. There no need to drive your work displays at 144hz so HDMI will work fine as the input. Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Jan 16, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 19:08
|
|
|
Shifty Pony posted:Dual-headed KVMs capable of handling 2x1440@144Hz are a bit slim pickings. Fwiw I use this usb 3.0 switch with integrated 4 port hub and the built in input switching on my monitors to switch between my desktop and my work laptop (using three monitors). Since the monitors will wake and auto-switch when they detect an active input it is as easy as pressing the usb-switch button and wiggling the mouse. That should work for you if you have a usb-A port on the laptop. I follow a similar approach but using a Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse which can switch between 3 devices with the push of a button. My keyboard and mouse will use Bluetooth as well as the Logitech Unifying dongle so I perversely also mapped my phone to them, as well.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 22:56
|
|
|
Geemer posted:I've been considering one because the front ports on my case carry all the noise the unshielded cable picks up along the way and the rear ports are too far away for my headset mic. That sounds more like a job for a cheap audio cable extension.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2022 01:52
|
|
|
CaptainSarcastic posted:I follow a similar approach but using a Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse which can switch between 3 devices with the push of a button. My keyboard and mouse will use Bluetooth as well as the Logitech Unifying dongle so I perversely also mapped my phone to them, as well. Shifty Pony posted:Dual-headed KVMs capable of handling 2x1440@144Hz are a bit slim pickings. Fwiw I use this usb 3.0 switch with integrated 4 port hub and the built in input switching on my monitors to switch between my desktop and my work laptop (using three monitors). Since the monitors will wake and auto-switch when they detect an active input it is as easy as pressing the usb-switch button and wiggling the mouse. That should work for you if you have a usb-A port on the laptop. Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately, monitors only have a single DP in (Asus PG278Q). Still, some things to think over at least.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2022 02:41
|
|
|
I badly need a USB-C dock that's both Windows and Mac compatible; supports 2 monitors, one of which is 4k60 (on Windows anyway, thanks Timb); and has power delivery (cross platform)? There are a lot of negative reviews for docks/hubs with this feature set. Is there any particular model or brand people here recommend? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2022 23:04
|
|
|
Someone recommended Anker to me. I think a lot of negative reviews are idiots connecting stuff wrong or not understanding limitations imposed by their own system re: multiple displays.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2022 23:44
|
|
|
I've never heard anything bad about Anker, and have seen it recommended multiple times as a reliable third-party option for the kinds of things it sells. Haven't had cause to buy any of their stuff myself, but I wouldn't hesitate to do so.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 03:10
|
|
|
I do not have an anker usb-c dock so maybe they suck at those, but i have a powered USB hub from them that works perfectly well, and their 3.5mm audio cables are the best inexpensive ones I've used by far. So my opinion of them is that they seem to make pretty good stuff that isn't too expensive.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 05:31
|
|
|
Anker seems like they are really trying to position themselves as the quality brand out of China, and all the stuff I've got from them has been good. I own two pairs of Anker Soundcore earbuds, a flashlight, and a robot vacuum that is well-reviewed but I haven't tried out yet. I might have some other Anker stuff around but those are what come to mind.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 05:48
|
|
|
I'm using an Anker Ethernet to USB-C converter and it's been absolutely rock solid. Again, quite a different bit of kit, but another vote for them
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 10:17
|
|
|
My parents laptop has died and they are asking advice on a new one. They don't use the laptop as a portable device, they have a larger monitor plugged into it along with a mouse/keyboard/printer etc. As such I've tried to point them towards are pre-built desktop PC (can't be bothered sourcing/building myself) as the specs poo poo on the equivalent priced laptop but they "don't want to have something else under the desk" So I've been looking at mini PCs/NUCS which seem cool but I don't know anything about them. Can anyone provide some insight? How does their specs compare to similar priced laptops? Do they use standard SSDs/RAM and are they upgrade/replacement part friendly? Will they poo poo my parents needs? They use the PC for general word processing, emails, web surfing and dad likes to dabble in some home video editing of their holidays. They're looking to only spend about AU$800
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 11:38
|
|
|
What spec was their old laptop? For general stuff, I'd be tempted to suggest a refurb Dell micro firm factor optiplex, i5 not i3, and chucking in memory upgrade and large ssd. It wouldn't be my first choice for video editing, but if they don't want a large pc and a laptop is the old benchmark...
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 13:00
|
|
|
I have a nice desktop with two monitors and a nice kbm setup. I also have a small work laptop. Do they sell a physical hub where i can connect both PC and work laptop that will allow me to switch between inputs? Like a physical switch to tell it "use the desktop" versus "use the laptop" and not have to swap all the cables back and forth? My concern is that while the desktop has both hdmi and display port, my laptop has only hdmi for a second monitor. My dumb question is can i use a usb connection to allow my laptop to use both monitors, even if it lacks the display port?
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 16:36
|
|
|
sephiRoth IRA posted:I have a nice desktop with two monitors and a nice kbm setup. I also have a small work laptop. Do they sell a physical hub where i can connect both PC and work laptop that will allow me to switch between inputs? Like a physical switch to tell it "use the desktop" versus "use the laptop" and not have to swap all the cables back and forth? There's KVM switches that can do that but they're not inexpensive for good ones that will work well. Most won't handle all of that with just USB since while there are some USB to video type adapters they can be finnicky and work with some setups and not others. Level1Techs has been working on these quality ones but as you can see they're focused on DisplayPort so you'd need adapters. Also the two computer two display one is $449 plus they're out of stock right now. They think they will have more soon, though. https://store.level1techs.com/products/14-kvm-switch-dual-monitor-2computer You could try less expensive KVMs but for example on amazon the $50 range is mostly one monitor while the two monitor HDMI are $200+: https://smile.amazon.com/ABLEWE-Computers-Keyboard-Printer-Monitor/dp/B08NVKHRRT/ I'm not sure what your price level vs. needs are but in your situation I'd consider maybe a one monitor kvm for just getting the laptop input and video switched to one screen. See if it suits your needs and then look into a second one or one that handles multiple screens. Personally I got an arm to drop my work laptop on that can kind of hover by my mutli screen desk setup, but honestly I remote into it even though it's just a couple of feet away so I can work on it in a window half the time.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 17:11
|
|
|
Super helpful post, thank you! This is mostly just a QoL upgrade, as most of my work is fine on the small laptop and only very rarely (mostly for trainings) do i need two monitors. So not looking at more than 50ish at the high end. If i set up one of the cheaper one monitor switches, could i just leave the second monitor attached to my desktop and have the primary big monitor and kbm switch back and forth? Would it introduce issues with my desktop figuring out which monitor to use as the primary? Youre bang on that I could use the actual laptop as my second screen, as my current setup would accommodate that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 17:16
|
|
|
sephiRoth IRA posted:Super helpful post, thank you! This is mostly just a QoL upgrade, as most of my work is fine on the small laptop and only very rarely (mostly for trainings) do i need two monitors. So not looking at more than 50ish at the high end. Your desktop PC would probably be okay with that, but with the caveat that some computers see disconnected displays as gone forever. This is usually more of an issue with DisplayPort (and often seen when the monitor turns off) but most good KVMs attempt to assure the computer that the monitor still exists so that they don't go crazy rearranging windows and icons or whatever. You'll likely have to get one and try it and amazon reviews (ugh) may be one of the better ways to see if folks have had issues with this with any particular model.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 17:43
|
|
|
Cool, ill give it a try. Thank you!
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 17:48
|
|
|
I've got a bit of weird issue. I'm trying reuse an old system (i7 4770k in an MSI z87 g45 Gaming motherboard) as a NAS. The motherboard has been sitting in it's box in an anti static bag with CPU and RAM installed since I took it apart last May when I upgraded to a Ryzen rig. At the time it was working without issue. I tried putting the old system together today since the case and PSU finally came in, and I can't get into BIOS. I get a blank screen with code 99 in the lower right corner. At this point the system is RAM and CPU on top of the motherboard box with my Keychron K8 plugged in to a motherboard USB 2 port. When I turned the system on, it loads into EFI shell. If I type exit to exit, I get a completely blank screen. If I power off, clear the CMOS, and power back on, I then get back to code 99. If I restart without clearing CMOS, shorting the power or restart pins, EFI shell loads again. Does anyone know what the issue could be? Edit: Just remembered that I had an old Windows 7 install USB, and it booted into that no problem. Jesus loving Christ, if I wasted the last 3 hours because the POST doesn't like my keyboard I'm going to be so mad. Edit2: Solved my own issue here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3970266&pagenumber=121#post520893935 https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3970266&pagenumber=121#post520899919 PolishPandaBear fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Jan 22, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 07:35
|
|
|
What happened to the warnings that used to go out about out of spec USBC cables? Is there something different about the technology now that means we shouldn't be worrying about that anymore?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 14:34
|
|
|
Are there any motherboards available online, prefer new, suitable for Sandy bridge/2500k? Preferebly avail in  for next to nothing? My looking on Amazon for P67/H67 isn't turning up much. Nothing fancy, in fact the more basic the better. Won't be overclocked.I want to resurrect an old P67 with a flaky mobo (onboard sound/microphone kept going on/off on their own multiple times a second) but everything else on it seemed fine. Have a decent PS, DDR3, CPU, cooler, hell even a GTX780, just an appropriate motherboard and IO I'm missing. Not fussy on form factor, it's in a huge ATX case. e: Does H61 support 2500k? I think it might? If so there may be a few choices ee: Looks like there are quite a few chipsets... sorry been many years since I gave sandybridge even a thought https://www.cpu-upgrade.com/CPUs/Intel/Core_i5/i5-2500.html slidebite fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Jan 22, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 16:48
|
|
|
slidebite posted:Are there any motherboards available online, prefer new, suitable for Sandy bridge/2500k? Preferebly avail in There won't be much if anything available new for a CPU that old. Since it stopped being manufactured a lot of people in your situation have bought out all the new old stock, and while there are some chipsets that are being made to support stuff like bitcoin mining boards (usually ordered from China directly on ebay or aliexpress or whatever), the last time I looked, the majority were for 6th-7th gen instead of 2nd gen. You're right that a lot of chipsets support that model, though overclocking will be limited with some of them like H61. I've had good luck with used motherboards on ebay, but I look for folks who are parting out an old system and often have their original box as an indicator that they took care of it. Unfortunately, if you're going to be spending $200 on a motherboard it's just worthwhile spending a little more on a new CPU and board that will be a lot faster and more power efficient.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 18:25
|
|
|
Yeah, kind of discovering that. I don't really need the computer as we have 4 in the house, but I could do something with it... maybe have life with my father in law that had his old circa 2007 thing die. I did find a chinese no-name on Amazon https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09H75B1KJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AAEAGYFC0R5V9&psc=1 might do the trick. I'd rather a ship-by amazon due to returning if it's junk.. but it looks like crap like this might be around. Appreciate the thoughts.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 23:55
|
|
|
facebook market for an old optiplex+chip or something and just transplant the board and whatever chip you can find over imo. friend of mine got a perfectly serviceable 2400 machine + old monitor for 65 quid when his anchient old laptop died.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 00:01
|
|
|
Could you disable the onboard audio in the BIOS on your old motherboard and use a $10 USB sound card instead? That’s the direction I’d go if I could. A 2500K is a much better processor run at 4.3 or so on a P67/Z68/Z77 board rather than be stuck at 3.5 or whatever on a cheap non-OC mobo.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 15:11
|
|
|
JnnyThndrs posted:Could you disable the onboard audio in the BIOS on your old motherboard and use a $10 USB sound card instead? That’s the direction I’d go if I could. Actually, it does have a GTX780 on it, does the card have an audio processor on it? Her monitor doesn't have HDMI though... so that's another problem. The USB/cheapo sound might be the way to go. I'll investigate that a bit. I already ordered the AIO PC for her as a replacement, but it wouldn't be bad to have ready to go for ~reasons~
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 16:16
|
|
|
Just a shot in the dark here but have you tried disabling the microphone input in the sound control panel?
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 16:27
|
|
|
Yeah that was one of the first things I tried once I realized it seemed to be related to the mic. I tried that... was trick to do as it kept "refreshing".. that along with her audio not working. It's almost like a intermittent "short" on the motherboard thinking someone is continually plugging something in... I still think I did try the BIOS before but now I'm second guessing myself. I'll try that today.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 16:42
|
|
|
Ah, the only other things I can think of is most motherboard audio implementations are Realtek and occasionally a particular motherboard/chipset combination gets a driver that glitches out from windows update, it might be worth either checking the MB website or realtek directly for an updated or just plain different driver. Also sometimes a detection glitch like that can be resolved by cleaning out the ports in the back and or just plugging something (anything) with a 3.5mm audio jack into the port a couple times. It never hurts to just check all the physical connections when audio isn't working right and make sure windows or the drivers aren't doing something stupid like outputting exclusively to the front audio connectors.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 17:17
|
|
|
I never tried a driver roll-back or see if there was a semi-recent update that might have done something. That's a good idea. Not sure how long it was doing this as Mrs. Slidebite only noticed when she went to play Zuma the other day. It's an old MSI P67-G43 (I think?) and it's been pretty good until recently, if dated. I did try the physical plugs repeatedly, no beuno.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 17:29
|
|
|
There's almost certainly something in the bios that will let you disable onboard audio, it just might be in a weird spot. What's the motherboard model? Also you could try disabling the onboard audio in device manager. That should make windows just ignore it instead of reinitializing it over and over.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 17:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 22:38 |
|
|
Oh I can absolutely disable the audio in BIOS, that's no problem, but it's ALL audio, including mic and speakers. And I just did it and it worked. Nothing detected for audio devices anymore so the endless device manager auto-detect is now stopped. I wasn't keen on that because, well, audio output is nice. Disabling in device manager did nothing, it kept trying to "autodetect" like every second. I think the cheapo USB soundcard is a reasonable thing to try, I did find one for $10. Might just do it so I have a backup. Something like this should do the trick, hey? https://www.amazon.ca/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 17:43
|
|