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I think since Vista a non-quick format zero fills already.
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Oct 3, 2014 18:48
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Flipperwaldt posted:I think since Vista a non-quick format zero fills already. On Windows 7 and later a quick format will send TRIM commands to SSDs and trigger them to actually erase the deleted dated, however this doesn't happen immediately and isn't guaranteed to happen at all. Before selling an SSD you should perform a "Secure Erase" rather than an overwrite, which guarantees that all data is wiped and the drive is returned to factory-fresh condition.
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Oct 3, 2014 22:03
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Alereon posted:a full format also tests all sectors to see if they work. And thanks for clearing that up. Full format is what I meant; a lot less confusing than what I called it.
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Oct 3, 2014 22:36
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Flipperwaldt posted:Sorry if this is the dumbest question, but testing involves writing to it in this case, right?  So yes, you are correct, the full format should erase the entire partition one sector at a time, though I don't actually know if it tests the entirety of every sector on every drive (including modern Advanced Format HDDs).
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Oct 3, 2014 23:46
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whatupdet posted:I have the free version of CCleaner, will that suffice? Any tool that writes to every sector will suffice - they are all essentially the same. If you wanted to be extra careful, you would find a tool that supports Secure Erase, which is an ATA command that wipes drives. It should be a little quicker than a zero-fill and will also try and wipe parts that a standard wiping tool may miss due to bad sector mapping. I say "find a tool", but that includes a motherboard that supports passing the specific ATA command to your disks. Honestly, even if your wiping tool skips bad sectors (and if the sector can't be read or written to then you can't do much about it) even if some heavy-hitter got access to the data in those areas there are pretty low odds of them getting anything useful out of it. If you cared that much, you'd physically destroy any disks that had bad sectors.
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Oct 5, 2014 00:54
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I want to buy a Bluetooth dongle to use my console controllers, but I'm completely ignorant on the different Bluetooth standards. From what I have read, use of Wii hardware relies on Bluetooth standard 2.0 with a preference for 2.1 -- why, I have no idea. PS3 seems to rely on a standard called CSR which seems to be a synonym with version 4.0 of the standard. Finally, the Wii U controller seems fine with the 2.1, but god knows what standard the PS4 controller uses. Help me pick a Bluetooth dongle that isn't absurdly expensive and which can (hopefully) support all of those consoles. I guess I can also accept two dongles if that's the best cost-effective and/or practical solution.
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Oct 7, 2014 16:54
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Wiimotes: If you're using Windows, aaaaahahahah - for Mac or Linux it might actually not destroy your sanity, despite Nintendo's best efforts (they don't like people using their Nintendo accessories with not-Nintendo hardware much). For PS3 controllers yeah you're probably fine as long as your Bluetooth adapter isn't garbage (although this is kind of a tall order). You may just want to blow five bucks on a 5m Mini-USB cable for the DualShock 3; then just use Scarlet.Crush's XInput Wrapper or ... probably works natively in OS X or Linux. Or better yet a DualShock 4, Micro-USB cable and appropriate driver. If you still want to go ahead with the Bluetooth you're probably best off with the Wiimote Adapter from the link and ... do you have Wi-Fi? Because the Intel 7260 (now in desktop kits too!) is the best drat Wi-Fi card on the planet and it supports both Wireless-AC and Bluetooth 4.0 - but be warned OS X has no idea what to do with it (though if you have a Mac you should already have Wi-Fi and Bluetooth so just use those). dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Oct 7, 2014 |
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Oct 7, 2014 18:08
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Sir Unimaginative posted:Because the Intel 7260 (now in desktop kits too!) is the best drat Wi-Fi card on the planet and it supports both Wireless-AC and Bluetooth 4.0 .
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Oct 7, 2014 18:38
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Sir Unimaginative posted:Because the Intel 7260 (now in desktop kits too!) is the best drat Wi-Fi card on the planet and it supports both Wireless-AC and Bluetooth 4.0
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Oct 7, 2014 18:51
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Flipperwaldt posted:I'm not going to type it all out again, I'll just link you to a post I made earlier, outlining how my personal experience with the 7260 makes me disagreee very strongly with that statement.
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Oct 7, 2014 19:01
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Alereon posted:Your issues were caused by your router crashing under load. You didn't see the issue with other adapters because they weren't good enough to place the router under significant load. You likely would have seen similar behavior with other decent-quality Wireless-AC adapters. Swear to god that I understand that it gets recommended because likely it works well for a lot of people in a lot of settings and that I'd love to have an alternative explanation that allows me to fix it.
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Oct 7, 2014 20:06
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Flipperwaldt posted:That may be an adequate explanation for the case where the whole router was taken off the air. Router crash seems less plausible for the much more frequent cases where all other connected devices can keep on working without issue during the time the laptop with 7260 AC thinks there's a problem. Intense bluetooth traffic reliably murdering wifi speeds also cannot possibly have a lot to do with that either. I'm not saying Intel's drivers are perfect and you didn't encounter real issues, though I've had good experiences on the 7260-AC with both great and lovely routers, but it is pretty important to set reasonable expectations for the performance you'll get. Bonus next day edit: Bluetooth High-speed was actually introduced in Bluetooth 3.0, not 4.0 like I said above. The reason impact could be very severe is that, for example, if you're running at nearly 100% utilization of the Bluetooth link, the adapter has nearly 0% of its time to devote to WiFi traffic, so you might get basically no throughput. I could see this getting even worse if the router is trying to send data (such as acknowledgement packets) while the adapter isn't listening because it's in Bluetooth mode. It doesn't take very many missed packets to completely gently caress throughput on TCP connections. Alereon fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Oct 8, 2014 |
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Oct 7, 2014 20:57
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Alereon posted:I'm not saying Intel's drivers are perfect and you didn't encounter real issues, though I've had good experiences on the 7260-AC with both great and lovely routers, but it is pretty important to set reasonable expectations for the performance you'll get. I am complaining about sub-56k speeds. It's an actual, but probably rare issue. Anyway, thanks a lot for the explanation and the patience. I wouldn't have thought of it otherwise, but with the way those combined radios apparently work, it probably makes sense to see if a separate bluetooth usb dongle makes any difference until I upgrade to 5GHz. Sorry for all the venting and if I want to discuss the issue any more I'll create a Haus thread, because I'm definitely cluttering up this space. Flipperwaldt fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Oct 7, 2014 |
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Oct 7, 2014 22:35
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Is it possible to convert an MBR boot disk to a GPT boot disk without data loss? At the moment I have 2TB hard drive I'd like to upgrade it to a 4TB drive without having to start all over again if possible. However it is not possible for an MBR disk to see more than 2TB and there doesn't look like a way to clone the disk (at least easily) to another format (GPT) without having to start from a fresh installation and copy bits and pieces manually. Edit: My operating system is windows 7 64 bit. Psygnosis fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Oct 7, 2014 |
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Oct 7, 2014 23:22
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Sir Unimaginative posted:You may just want to blow five bucks on a 5m Mini-USB cable for the DualShock 3; then just use Scarlet.Crush's XInput Wrapper (...) Or better yet a DualShock 4, Micro-USB cable and appropriate driver. Uh, I did hear the DS4 can be used with just a micro-USB cable, but AFAIK the DS3 only used the cable for charging the battery and the only way to use it on a computer would be Bluetooth. If that isn't correct however and I can use a cable as well, then I would only need a Bluetooth adapter that can deal with the Nintendo stuff making things (in theory) easier for me. Is that correct? I certainly don't mind cables and then I would only need one of the 2.1 Bluetooth standard dongles recommended for Wii stuff and recheck if it also works with the Wii U controller. Sir Unimaginative posted:Do you have Wi-Fi? Because the Intel 7260 (now in desktop kits too!) is the best drat Wi-Fi card on the planet and it supports both Wireless-AC and Bluetooth 4.0 Uh, my desktop is wired so I reckon this card would be a waste of money in my specific case.
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Oct 8, 2014 11:40
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Am I correct in assuming that the Radeon 6870 uses a DVI-in on both its ports? EDIT: And that one DVI-out and HDMI-out should work fine. ufarn fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Oct 8, 2014 |
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Oct 8, 2014 19:16
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DVI and HDMI are compatible with passive adapters so it'll work fine. edit: Yeah there's no VIVO chip anymore so DVI-in won't work. Output-only. future ghost fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Oct 8, 2014 |
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Oct 8, 2014 19:22
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ufarn posted:Am I correct in assuming that the Radeon 6870 uses a DVI-in on both its ports? DVI-in? It's not a capture card. All of those plugs are outputs for screens. You can use any of the ports alone, both DVIs or one DVI and the HDMI. If you need two HDMI, you can use a simple pin adapter or DVI to HDMI cable on a DVI plug, but you won't get audio out of the DVI-connected plug. To these, you can add as many DisplayPort screens as you have ports (or more, with MST, up to six displays total).
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Oct 8, 2014 20:08
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Hopefully I am in the right thread. So I got a new 970 card and now I have an old 770 card collecting dust. Would I get any performance gain by setting it up as a dedicated Physx card? Can I actually set it as a dedicated Physx card even if my motherboard does not support SLI ?
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Oct 8, 2014 21:40
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Imazul posted:Hopefully I am in the right thread.
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Oct 8, 2014 21:47
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Probably easiest just to sell the 770 instead if you're not going to use it for a family member's PC or something since you'd just be adding to power requirements for edge-case benefits and they're still selling for around $170-$220 or so.
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Oct 8, 2014 23:28
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Saoshyant posted:but AFAIK the DS3 only used the cable for charging the battery and the only way to use it on a computer would be Bluetooth.
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Oct 9, 2014 02:14
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IOGear does this little Bluetooth 4.0 adapter. I think it might work well, but I actually can't tell because it turns out you can't run a Bluetooth stack on Windows Server, and all my other systems already have Bluetooth so I can't exactly test it... This is not a very helpful recommendation, is it?
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Oct 9, 2014 02:25
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cisco privilege posted:Probably easiest just to sell the 770 instead if you're not going to use it for a family member's PC or something since you'd just be adding to power requirements for edge-case benefits and they're still selling for around $170-$220 or so. This makes the most sense I guess. I didn't know they were so many little games that supported hardware Physx.
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Oct 9, 2014 03:09
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Imazul posted:This makes the most sense I guess. I didn't know they were so many little games that supported hardware Physx.
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Oct 9, 2014 13:36
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Sorry but is there a thread like this for software? I need a program to do something and I want goon advice but I don't know where exactly to ask. 
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Oct 9, 2014 17:11
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lady blue shanghai posted:Sorry but is there a thread like this for software? I need a program to do something and I want goon advice but I don't know where exactly to ask. The useful Windows Freeware thread (what free app does what I need?) The Windows and Windows Software Megathread A thread in the Haus of Tech Support might be a good idea if you need more individualized help on how to accomplish something.
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Oct 9, 2014 17:16
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Really stupid question here: My motherboard has 4 3.0 usb ports directly on the mother board, and my case has 2 3.0 usb ports on the front (which are in fact plugged into my motherboard). Is there any difference between plugging an item into the front of my case versus directly onto the mobo at the rear of my case (in terms of latency, speed, etc)?
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Oct 10, 2014 16:55
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Knifegrab posted:Really stupid question here: My motherboard has 4 3.0 usb ports directly on the mother board, and my case has 2 3.0 usb ports on the front (which are in fact plugged into my motherboard). Is there any difference between plugging an item into the front of my case versus directly onto the mobo at the rear of my case (in terms of latency, speed, etc)?
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Oct 10, 2014 17:23
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Alereon posted:There is no difference between internal and external ports pe se, however it is likely they are connected to a different controller chip on your motherboard so may give a different experience. On most systems four of the USB 3.0 ports are provided by the Intel chipset, the rest by another chip from a company like ASMedia, for example. The Intel controller generally works best. Are we talking significant difference or just slight? As in should I make sure all my input controlls (keyboards/mouse/joysticks) are in my motherboard then to obtain the lowest latency?
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Oct 10, 2014 17:25
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Knifegrab posted:Are we talking significant difference or just slight? As in should I make sure all my input controlls (keyboards/mouse/joysticks) are in my motherboard then to obtain the lowest latency? Alereon fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Oct 10, 2014 |
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Oct 10, 2014 18:11
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Alereon posted:Your input devices should be connected to the black USB 2.0 ports on the back of the motherboard. Only USB 3.0 devices should be connected to USB 3.0 ports, and preferably to the Intel controller first, though how well devices work with the Intel vs 3rd Party controller varies by device. In theory USB 3.0 ports should be functionally identical to USB 2.0 ports for USB 2.0 devices since the extra pins aren't even connected, but it does not actually work like that for some reason, plenty of people see issues with their mice and keyboards when using USB 3.0 ports. Mass storage devices do often run better though. So what should I do if my motherboard only has two 2.0 usb ports, where my keyboard has two usb plugs and my mouse has one, and my hotas and rudder set up each have one as well (meaning I have 5 input plugs, but only two 2.0 usb ports)?
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Oct 10, 2014 18:24
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Knifegrab posted:So what should I do if my motherboard only has two 2.0 usb ports, where my keyboard has two usb plugs and my mouse has one, and my hotas and rudder set up each have one as well (meaning I have 5 input plugs, but only two 2.0 usb ports)? Your options are either use a USB hub or USB 2.0 expansion card. Or a new system board with more 2.0 ports.
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Oct 10, 2014 18:34
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Geoj posted:Your options are either use a USB hub or USB 2.0 expansion card. Or a new system board with more 2.0 ports. Is there a recommended usb 2.0 expansion card? Reviews seem all over the map... edit: Nvm found a good one. Thanks for the tips. Knifegrab fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Oct 10, 2014 |
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Oct 10, 2014 18:41
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Knifegrab posted:So what should I do if my motherboard only has two 2.0 usb ports, where my keyboard has two usb plugs and my mouse has one, and my hotas and rudder set up each have one as well (meaning I have 5 input plugs, but only two 2.0 usb ports)? Using a USB 2.0 add-in card would result in a very similar set of compatibility issues because it's a third-party controller, the point is that you want to be using the chipset USB 2.0 ports for an experience that is guaranteed to be issue-free with your legacy USB 2.0 devices. Alereon fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Oct 10, 2014 |
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Oct 10, 2014 18:41
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This is what he's referring to.
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Oct 10, 2014 18:44
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Hmm ok I'll look into that before I get a PCI usb thing.
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Oct 10, 2014 18:54
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Knifegrab posted:Hmm ok I'll look into that before I get a PCI usb thing.
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Oct 10, 2014 19:01
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Alereon posted:Definitely do not buy an add-in card, it won't help you at all. If you can't get D-brackets use a powered hub (your keyboard has one right?) or just use the Intel USB 3.0 ports until filled, then the supplemental USB 3.0 ports. I got the bracket linked above! Thanks for all the tips, it means a lot!
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Oct 10, 2014 19:02
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Alereon posted:In theory USB 3.0 ports should be functionally identical to USB 2.0 ports for USB 2.0 devices since the extra pins aren't even connected, but it does not actually work like that for some reason, plenty of people see issues with their mice and keyboards when using USB 3.0 ports.
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Oct 10, 2014 19:26
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