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Bruceski posted:My PSU failed on my ten year old PC and took the motherboard with it. I'm focused on triage to get it up and running, but if I'm gonna get new parts I may as well get new parts that can still go with whatever I get for the rest of the hardware down the line. Depending on what you’re using the PC for, buying a used or heavily discounted motherboard compatible with your current cpu and Ram might be the best move. Spend the bare minimum to keep the machine running and then build a system with current-gen parts later on. E:what’s your budget?
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Jun 27, 2025 10:12
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Eletriarnation posted:Well, the WiFi M.2 slots are different so if you have one using it wouldn't take the place of an SSD. There are plenty of motherboards which have the SSD type but not the WiFi type, though, and at the end of the day it doesn't really matter which you use if you weren't going to use the full sized PCIe slot for something else. mikey posted:Unless the PCIe slot is shared with an M.2 SSD slot, and either won't work or disables the M.2 slot. That's why I figured it'd be a good idea to nail down which motherboard it is, to know what the overall slot/sharing situation looks like. Forgive my slowness, I did find a manual and there was no special WiFi M.2, only storage ones, but I'm happy to say I got the new WiFi card installed and everything seems to be working great, speedtest download went from 74Mbps to 520Mbps (!!!), downloaded a large game on Steam to celebrate that normally would've taken hours now only took 20 mins, thanks all for the help 
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Jun 29, 2025 14:57
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CaptainSarcastic posted:Do you really need wired charging? This is one reason I have a poo poo-ton of wireless chargers around the house and at work. If the phones don't have wireless charging built-in then it's trivial to add. Sure, your charging speeds will be slower but the ease of use goes up significantly. It’s for the L shaped couch in our family room that’s right up against the corner/wall on both sides — a charger with longer cables works well because the cables can be routed through the cushions. Wireless won’t work because my kids use their tablets there. I’ve got a nice GaN charger on the wall that can handle three tablets simultaneously, so a 90 degree cable was ideal for the usecase (it lets me move the couch closer to the wall and helps the kids keep the cables out of the way).
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Jun 29, 2025 18:46
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tehinternet posted:It’s for the L shaped couch in our family room that’s right up against the corner/wall on both sides — a charger with longer cables works well because the cables can be routed through the cushions. Wireless won’t work because my kids use their tablets there. I’ve got a nice GaN charger on the wall that can handle three tablets simultaneously, so a 90 degree cable was ideal for the usecase (it lets me move the couch closer to the wall and helps the kids keep the cables out of the way). Considered a 90 degree adapter on the outlet itself, so the charger as a whole is rotated? I could be missing some other context but it feels you might be a little in the weeds looking for specialty cables when an adapter or little 6 inch extension cord with a flat plug on the wall side would let you accomplish your goals pretty well! Arrath fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Jun 29, 2025 |
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Jun 29, 2025 19:05
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Yeah, just put the charger under the couch on a flat-plug extension of some kind. Much cheaper, much less likely to fail.
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Jun 29, 2025 23:53
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Arrath posted:Considered a 90 degree adapter on the outlet itself, so the charger as a whole is rotated? Yeah, that could be a better solution, hadn’t even considered that. Sometimes a fresh pair of eyes (or a dozen) is all you need!
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Jun 30, 2025 02:46
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My headset's cable is apparently having connection issues at the base of the headphone's. I use it for work meetings and gaming. I was thinking of replacing it with a stand alone mic and using one of the other pairs of headphones I have around. My question is that I have the HVAC unit basically directly adjacent to my office (and behind me) ...would a cardioid mic really struggle with that extra white noise? I've never used one before so I just have no idea.
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Jul 1, 2025 16:28
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ChiTownEddie posted:My headset's cable is apparently having connection issues at the base of the headphone's. I use it for work meetings and gaming. I was thinking of replacing it with a stand alone mic and using one of the other pairs of headphones I have around. My question is that I have the HVAC unit basically directly adjacent to my office (and behind me) ...would a cardioid mic really struggle with that extra white noise? I've never used one before so I just have no idea. I'd just give it a try. If your PC has a 1000 series or newer nvidia card you can use nvidia broadcast to cut noise as well. It was originally a small app called RTX Voice but it turns out it runs on non rtx cards so they renamed it and added more stuff.
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Jul 1, 2025 17:35
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My online meeting setup is a cardioid microphone on a long arm and a floor standing speakers few meters away for audio. The noise from the speakers hasn't been an issue, although my monitors block the sight line between them pretty well.
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Jul 1, 2025 17:38
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If noise is a concern, I'd really just use a headset. I use a Jabra Evolve 85 for all the meetings and the microphone and ANC work very well. The ANC maybe not as great as Sony's, but the mic cuts out all the noise very effectively. Like there can be an airplane flying overhead or someone mowing grass just outside, and there's no hint of any of that on the other end.
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Jul 1, 2025 18:41
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I've been running my 9800x3d for 6 months now and it's been really great. The problem is I'm hitting constant temps of 95c under load and HWInfo says some spots go even higher. I know the 9800x3d is supposed to run hot, but 95c seems too high for me. I'm very slightly overclocking but I think it's just hot. I currently have a 240mm AIO; would upgrading to a 360mm AIO help keep the core temperature lower even under load?
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Jul 2, 2025 02:11
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A working 240mm AIO should be plenty for a 9800X3D, and it shouldn't hit 95C with any functioning cooling solution, even a single-tower cooler. If temps were fine initially, then it's likely your AIO is dying. If they were always high, then either your fan/pump curves are far too relaxed, or it's possible you have a coldplate contact issue-- either the plastic sheet is still on the cooler, or the paste application didn't turn out well. Check the RPM of your pump and fans under load in HWInfo, Fan Control or the BIOS and make sure they're within spec for your particular cooler, and if that's fine, take the cooler off the CPU and make sure it has good paste contact and no obstructions. Clean any existing paste off with alcohol, and maybe try a different paste if whatever you used was difficult to apply.
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Jul 2, 2025 02:45
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OGS-Remix posted:I've been running my 9800x3d for 6 months now and it's been really great. The problem is I'm hitting constant temps of 95c under load and HWInfo says some spots go even higher. fyi, a 280mm aio is just as effective (for noise-normalized thermals) as a 360mm. if you do get one, get whichever fits your case better. they are both significantly better than a 240mm aio. hell, even an air tower like the peerless assassin would be more than enough for that cpu. with that said, running that high of a temp with a 240 aio with a 9800x3d is suspect. what case do you have and how do you have the fans oriented and at what speeds?
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Jul 2, 2025 02:51
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Check radiator orientation too, didn't install it vertically and high-side the hoses, now it's bubble-locked or whatever they call it?
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Jul 2, 2025 02:51
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OGS-Remix posted:I've been running my 9800x3d for 6 months now and it's been really great. The problem is I'm hitting constant temps of 95c under load and HWInfo says some spots go even higher. The size of your cooler shouldn't be a problem for the ~150 watts a 9800X3D is limited to. One way to check, does it hit 95C more or less instantly, or does it take a minute or two to get there. The longer it takes, the further away from the CPU the problem will be. If it happens instantly, then that is almost a guarantee the problem is either the interface between the CPU and the cooler (protective sticker still on the cold plate? bad/failed thermal paste?) or the pump is failed or way too slow. If it takes a couple minutes, then the cooler itself is saturating and your fan speeds are too low. Also the kind of load matters, ordinary gaming shouldn't get that hot, but purpose built stress tests can even get my 9800X3D up to 90C in pretty short order and that is on a custom loop with 700MM of radiator volume. Indiana_Krom fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Jul 2, 2025 |
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Jul 2, 2025 03:05
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Thanks to y'all that gave me advice on the mic/headset question! Probably just going to get a new headset despite my nerd impulse.
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Jul 2, 2025 03:56
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ChiTownEddie posted:Thanks to y'all that gave me advice on the mic/headset question! Probably just going to get a new headset despite my nerd impulse. Don’t forget about things like the ModMic which will let you just add a mic to an existing headphone.
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Jul 2, 2025 05:08
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mikey posted:A working 240mm AIO should be plenty for a 9800X3D, and it shouldn't hit 95C with any functioning cooling solution, even a single-tower cooler. The temps were never fine, it always got hot pretty quickly. Although I never realized how quickly until I actually started looking at a graph. Kibner posted:fyi, a 280mm aio is just as effective (for noise-normalized thermals) as a 360mm. if you do get one, get whichever fits your case better. they are both significantly better than a 240mm aio. hell, even an air tower like the peerless assassin would be more than enough for that cpu. I have a Fractal Design R5, the airflow is going front to back. Not sure how to get the speed of the case fans, is there a setting in HWInfo? The AIO fans seem to be normal and not going too crazy or slow. Arrath posted:Check radiator orientation too, didn't install it vertically and high-side the hoses, now it's bubble-locked or whatever they call it? This is actually something I didn't think of so I checked and the tubes are on the bottom so the flow should be ok. Indiana_Krom posted:The size of your cooler shouldn't be a problem for the ~150 watts a 9800X3D is limited to. One way to check, does it hit 95C more or less instantly, or does it take a minute or two to get there. The longer it takes, the further away from the CPU the problem will be. If it happens instantly, then that is almost a guarantee the problem is either the interface between the CPU and the cooler (protective sticker still on the cold plate? bad/failed thermal paste?) or the pump is failed or way too slow. If it takes a couple minutes, then the cooler itself is saturating and your fan speeds are too low. I setup the graph while gaming and it hit 90C almost immediately, definitely much shorter than a minute. Based on all the info you guys provided, I think I'll try removing the cooler and re-attaching it. If that doesn't work, I think I'll get a new one because I checked and my AIO is 6 years old. I moved it from my prior computer to this one to save money since it worked well in the past. Is the ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 still a well regarded AIO? I'll take any recommendations for a 240mm or 280mm as well if the full 360mm isn't needed. Edit: I looked at the coolant temp graph and it only went up by like 3 degrees when under load. Hopefully re-attaching the cooler will fix it, since it seems strange the coolant never got that hot. OGS-Remix fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Jul 2, 2025 |
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Jul 2, 2025 06:29
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If coolant temp isn't going up, you've got either a pump or a contact problem. A rapid rise to 90C when gaming would also suggest that, since even with a very low fan/pump RPM setting, the coolant should absorb that initial rise and spread it out over a minute or two. Monitoring pump RPM with HWInfo is going to be the easiest way to confirm or eliminate that as the cause. If you end up having to replace it, I'd normally just suggest a $35 air cooler, but your case doesn't exactly have fantastic air cooling performance, at least not with the front door closed. Arctic is generally still the go-to recommendation for AIOs, although their prices have gone up now, and some people in various threads have complained about the mounting hardware on their III models. Looks like their newest Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 is the only model that's still reasonably priced, at around $85. The only difference is upgraded fans, I think?
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Jul 2, 2025 07:05
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Welp when I was removing/reattaching the cooler, I saw some dried blue stuff near the connecting point. Google says it's either a leak or corrosion both of which means I should replace my AIO. Thanks for all the help, hopefully I can report back later with a working cooler lol.
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Jul 2, 2025 20:22
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What's the deal with screen burn-in? I've had a Dell s3422dwg for maybe 4-5 years now. I noticed that some of the icons on my desktop are visible while playing Ghost of Tsushima. I deleted them off of my desktop, and they're no longer visible in most contexts. But I can still see them on that particular game. I can see them if I move some windows with darker backgrounds over that particular spot (but not if the background is black). So, for example, if I move the Steam app over that spot, I can very faintly see those icons. I've never noticed it before in any previous games, although I suspect that if I looked closely I might be able to see them in games where I just wasn't looking. I see that there are Youtube videos that flash assorted colors, but I also see Reddit threads saying that poo poo doesn't work for actual burn-in. I ran one for a bit and it didn't seem to do anything. Should I just forget that this apparently happened and probably never notice it again in other games?
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Jul 4, 2025 03:21
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I had no idea VA/IPS monitors could suffer burn-in at all. Apparently some VA panels can burn-in when used at max brightness, but it's very rare and usually the sign of a defective panel? Most people seem to have it happen after 6mos to a year, and can typically get the panel replaced, but presumably yours is out of warranty at this point. Some posters say theirs is only visible at certain refresh rates, so you might be able to work around it in the games where it's noticeable by lowering or raising the refresh rate and using vsync instead of VRR? You might also get a more informed response from the monitor thread, but as far as I can tell there's no fix for it.
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Jul 4, 2025 04:02
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