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Rexxed posted:Things probably just need to be re-seated. You've probably double checked everything, but since you installed a new PSU it's easy to forget to plug in the additional CPU power 4 (or 8) pin EPS connector which is usually in the upper left of the motherboard.
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Jun 6, 2017 18:08
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I was going to suggest the same thing. Last two builds that has caught me out.
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Jun 6, 2017 20:45
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-snip not the right place-
Qubee fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Jun 11, 2017 |
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Jun 11, 2017 15:58
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Sheesh dude. I don't think this is the right thread for us to analyze your ability to make a hundred dollars.
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Jun 11, 2017 16:05
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My bad, I'll snip the post. I figured it was a short enough question to ask.
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Jun 11, 2017 16:13
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Regarding UPS', I don't have a Kill-a-Watt unit to measure my system's possible peak load given the components I have in it, but based on the online PSU sizing calculators, it looks like it could be in the 500-600W range. I've been looking at UPS', and there's an APC SMC unit with true sine wave that I'm interested in since I have a PFC PSU in my system. There's a 1000 VA/600W unit, and a 1440/900W unit that's available. Is there any issue with going with the larger unit if it's oversized? I thought I'd read somewhere that for UPS efficiency, it's betting to be close to target capacity. (On a related note, the Cyberpower PFCLCD units would be cheaper, but it looks like they have smell/odor issues so I was going to avoid it, but wanted to see if that's anything anyone around here has experienced).
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Jun 12, 2017 07:02
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SourKraut posted:Regarding UPS', I don't have a Kill-a-Watt unit to measure my system's possible peak load given the components I have in it, but based on the online PSU sizing calculators, it looks like it could be in the 500-600W range. Did you remember to also include the power draw of your monitors, speakers, possibly also router and modem? If just your PC on its own draws in the 500 watt range, those other devices could easily make it so 600 watt supply from the UPS won't be enough when the power dips.
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Jun 12, 2017 15:19
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Having trouble setting up a used drive I just bought. It booted up to their OS when I originally put it in my machine thinking it had been formatted. I didn't have admin rights so I booted up into Tails and formatted it to NTFS from there. Now I can't get the drive to show up in Disk Management on Windows but it does show up in Samsung Magician and in Tails. Could this have something to do with the Master Boot Record? Windows tried to "repair" the drive when I originally put it in. Here is what shows up in Samsung Magician: 
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Jun 13, 2017 02:00
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If Magician can see it, there should be an option somewhere for Secure Erase or Secure Delete. That should wipe out the drive completely & make it (hopefully) appear as un-formatted instead of a partially hosed drive. Windows stores info about the drive in the first few megs of available space and if that gets messed up Windows most of the time can't figure out what to do to fix it.
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Jun 13, 2017 02:31
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I was hoping there was another option as Samsung Magician is requiring me to create a USB boot disk but failing to create it with the two drives I have; presumably because its trying to create it from the hosed install that is already on the drive. edit: I went back in to Tails and formatted to FAT instead. Seemed to have done the trick for some reason. punch drunk fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Jun 13, 2017 |
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Jun 13, 2017 02:45
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I'm a dumb baby who only has tenuous understanding of wireless internet. The bottom line is that we're getting 66mbps through the modem and only like 12-15 on wireless (the 15 is sitting 10ft from the router). AFAIK getting a newer router should help because ours is old as poo poo . I was looking into replacing it with one of these two from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IUDUJE0/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I4W388ERL1TVV&colid=37D300IH5YYMC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXL1AR8/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IAWWLO9GB4Q20&colid=37D300IH5YYMC Will this help my problem? Which one should I get?
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Jun 13, 2017 13:12
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Yes, it will almost certainly help a ton. They're both good but Asus routers in particular have been making nerds cream their pants for a while now.
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Jun 13, 2017 13:20
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:I'm a dumb baby who only has tenuous understanding of wireless internet. The bottom line is that we're getting 66mbps through the modem and only like 12-15 on wireless (the 15 is sitting 10ft from the router). AFAIK getting a newer router should help because ours is old as poo poo .
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Jun 13, 2017 13:20
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Will do, thanks!
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Jun 13, 2017 13:27
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Go for the TP-Link AC1200 router you linked, it's a great deal at that price. Remember that you will possibly need to upgrade the wireless card in your computers to 802.11ac as well to make full use of the router's capabilities. If your phones/tablets are at all recent they already have support for it, likely.
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Jun 13, 2017 14:10
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fishmech posted:Go for the TP-Link AC1200 router you linked, it's a great deal at that price. Remember that you will possibly need to upgrade the wireless card in your computers to 802.11ac as well to make full use of the router's capabilities. If your phones/tablets are at all recent they already have support for it, likely. Our handheld devices are all capable of a/c connection but both laptops are 802.11n. They're both garbage old and on their last legs so we're not going to spend money upgrading them, basically just waiting for them to die so we can get new ones. AFAIK this means with the right router we should still be able to utilize our 66Mbps because it's not like we have a lightening fast connection to start with. Our Router now is BG and I know from speedtest it maxes out at 48Mbps with a direct connection so it's definitely capping our speeds. Add to that what appears to be a garbage antenna and I think changing the router will fix the issue but please let me know if I'm not understanding the letters right.
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Jun 13, 2017 16:02
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:Our handheld devices are all capable of a/c connection but both laptops are 802.11n. They're both garbage old and on their last legs so we're not going to spend money upgrading them, basically just waiting for them to die so we can get new ones. AFAIK this means with the right router we should still be able to utilize our 66Mbps because it's not like we have a lightening fast connection to start with. Our Router now is BG and I know from speedtest it maxes out at 48Mbps with a direct connection so it's definitely capping our speeds. Add to that what appears to be a garbage antenna and I think changing the router will fix the issue but please let me know if I'm not understanding the letters right. Nah you've got the right of things. The available speeds go like this, slowest to fastest: B < A or G < N < AC
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Jun 13, 2017 16:16
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I want to plug my xbox one into my desktop tower so I can play kinect bowling and watch tv now that they took out the snap feature. Do I just get one of those twitch streaming capture card and a hdmi hub so I can switch between all my consoles?
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Jun 14, 2017 18:05
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ColoradoCleric posted:I want to plug my xbox one into my desktop tower so I can play kinect bowling and watch tv now that they took out the snap feature. Do I just get one of those twitch streaming capture card and a hdmi hub so I can switch between all my consoles? The lag the capture device will introduce will make it impractical to play games through it as the only display. You'll want to either use a simple HDMI switch to change what feeds your monitor, or continue using a separate monitor or TV.
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Jun 14, 2017 20:02
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fishmech posted:The lag the capture device will introduce will make it impractical to play games through it as the only display. You'll want to either use a simple HDMI switch to change what feeds your monitor, or continue using a separate monitor or TV. To be clear here: many capture devices have a "pass through" port that works perfectly fine for regular use (many models are explicitly sold for the purpose of capturing gameplay from PCs/consoles/etc). However, you should not use the USB output of the capture device as your display, because that may have quite a bit of latency involved. Nobody cares if a Twitch stream is delayed a second from realtime, but that's enough to make virtually any game unplayable. (although if you are into Street Fighter whatever, where you only have a 2-frame window to time your combo right or whatever, even the passthrough may still be an issue, generally for maximum twitch-sensitivity you'd want as few devices in your signal path as possible) Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 20:05
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Is there much to choose from between hard drive manufacturers these days? A drive in my server needs replacing, and ive almost exclusively bought WD hdd for years now, but they seem to have a bit of a price premium over others at the moment
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Jun 15, 2017 05:44
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Skarsnik posted:Is there much to choose from between hard drive manufacturers these days? There's three manufacturers of hard drives. WD, Seagate, and Toshiba. WD also owns Hitachi's old HD manufacture plant and sells those disks as HGST. Most of the time they're all pretty good, but sometimes one manufacturer will put out a whole line of really lovely disks that fail a lot. There's no real huge numbers available except as retail returns or the Blackblaze HD failure rates reports which aren't really from a consumer workload and don't have a large enough sample size to be really telling, but do tend to make some of those bad runs of disks stand out, at least. https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-failure-rates-q1-2017/ I generally buy WD Reds/Blacks or Toshibas or HGST and avoid Seagate if I can but that's mostly due to the bad problems I've had with their 640gb disks I bought in 2008 and some 2tb disks I've had from clients that died way too early and lied about their deaths on the SMART data.
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Jun 15, 2017 06:13
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Same, after a couple bad years of bad Seagates I'm mostly doing Toshiba X300s at this point.
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Jun 15, 2017 06:22
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Gotcha, thanks for the write up 
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Jun 15, 2017 06:25
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Skarsnik posted:Is there much to choose from between hard drive manufacturers these days? HGST (Hitachi) is statistically better than others, the rest are kind of a wash. A lot of people hate Seagate, but it's mostly down to a few specific lovely models. Everyone's got their anecdotes.
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Jun 16, 2017 15:46
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Went for a toshiba drive as it was the cheapest that wasn't a seagate, it's running a full test before it goes in
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Jun 16, 2017 17:31
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I ended up buying the APC SMC1500 UPS from B&H Photo. Picked it up from UPS and saw the bottom had been opened (which UPS blamed on the tape "failing", though it looks like it was cut). Everything inside looked ok so I set it up and I hear a static/buzzing sound every few to several seconds. Sounds similar to an electric insect zapper or overhead power lines. I contacted APC and they said to move it 3' from the closet electronic device to avoid interference. I did that but the sound continues. Any ideas?
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Jun 16, 2017 17:35
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SourKraut posted:I ended up buying the APC SMC1500 UPS from B&H Photo. Picked it up from UPS and saw the bottom had been opened (which UPS blamed on the tape "failing", though it looks like it was cut). I mean, how loud is it? When it's first plugged in it may need to charge the batteries some and run a fan, but it should be a pretty quiet sound. If it's loud and dangerous sounding return it and buy a cyberpower. I've got cyberpowers that are 14 years old and are still running great (granted I've put new batteries in a few times).
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Jun 16, 2017 22:10
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Rexxed posted:I mean, how loud is it? When it's first plugged in it may need to charge the batteries some and run a fan, but it should be a pretty quiet sound. If it's loud and dangerous sounding return it and buy a cyberpower. I've got cyberpowers that are 14 years old and are still running great (granted I've put new batteries in a few times). It's not obnoxiously loud, just consistent (but not continuous) and sounds like a mosquito is being zapped. I mostly want to know it's safe and not going to burn down my house. Re: Cyberpower, I looked at the CP1500PFCLCD and wanted to buy it, but the reviews the last several months have not been good in terms of smell, with many saying it has a consistent, long-term hydrogen sulfide smell and Cyberpower hasn't really offered up an explanation.
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Jun 16, 2017 23:35
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SourKraut posted:It's not obnoxiously loud, just consistent (but not continuous) and sounds like a mosquito is being zapped. I mostly want to know it's safe and not going to burn down my house. A friend of mine has two of those Cyberpowers that haven't had any scent problems, but maybe it's some new manufacturing issue since he got his a couple of years back. As for the APC I'd be concerned with constant sounds if they sound like electric arcing, especially if they got dropped in transit. If something was damaged and it's got arcing inside it's a possible fire hazard. Usually UPSes are silent unless they're using the batteries for voltage step up or charging the batteries or running off battery power.
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Jun 17, 2017 00:03
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SourKraut posted:It's not obnoxiously loud, just consistent (but not continuous) and sounds like a mosquito is being zapped. I mostly want to know it's safe and not going to burn down my house. Is it a lead-acid battery? That would be my first guess. Lead-acid chemistry is expected to off-gas a little when charging (unless they are a sealed lead-acid battery), but if you are smelling eggs then something may be wrong. Maybe a bad batch of batteries, maybe a bad batch of controllers that are overcharging the batteries. I have that model (two of them actually) and it's great. Never noticed any smell.
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Jun 17, 2017 00:45
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Rexxed posted:A friend of mine has two of those Cyberpowers that haven't had any scent problems, but maybe it's some new manufacturing issue since he got his a couple of years back. As for the APC I'd be concerned with constant sounds if they sound like electric arcing, especially if they got dropped in transit. If something was damaged and it's got arcing inside it's a possible fire hazard. Usually UPSes are silent unless they're using the batteries for voltage step up or charging the batteries or running off battery power. Yeah, it seems like the recent reviews on the CyberPower indicate it's a mixed result in what people are getting, but my wife and I have a newborn at home so I didn't want to take any chances with smells/etc. As for the APC, I finished going through the various testing methods/etc. that APC support recommended - they're going to have me RMA it and send out a new one, which hopefully will get shipped out better. Of course it'll be coming when Phoenix is seeing a horrible heat wave coming in... but for the existing one, I unplugged everything, unplugged it from the wall, and disconnected the battery for now. Paul MaudDib posted:Is it a lead-acid battery? That would be my first guess. Lead-acid chemistry is expected to off-gas a little when charging (unless they are a sealed lead-acid battery), but if you are smelling eggs then something may be wrong. Maybe a bad batch of batteries, maybe a bad batch of controllers that are overcharging the batteries. If I had sent the current unit back to B&H Photo and gotten a replacement and that one had any issues, I probably would have asked for a refund and just tried to give the CyberPower a chance.
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Jun 17, 2017 03:43
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AFAIK, the batteries in all UPS's are all technically lead-acid, but they use a glass-mat design and don't have actual liquid electrolyte sloshing around - that's why the batteries can be mounted sideways and whatnot. You shouldn't ever smell any hydrogen sulfide smell with a glass mat battery, the electrolyte is held in the mat sort of like the way juice is held in an orange - in a zillion tiny compartments. Part of my job involves disassembling ancient decommissioned UPS's and sending the actual batteries to a battery recycling place along with our other auto/truck/forklift batteries. I've dealt with huge UPS's so hosed up that twenty or thirty batteries will be swelled up to the point where they're impossible to remove except to pound crowbars through the plastic cases and pry the broken batteries out, and the shattered cells -still- don't leak any electrolyte out or have any smell. If end users are smelling hydrogen sulfide gas, there's serious issues somewhere.
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Jun 17, 2017 19:49
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The smell might be from old plastics inside decomposing. A friend of mine has a set of screwdrivers that reek like vomit.
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Jun 20, 2017 05:52
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what places other than GrabCad can i find 3d models of computer parts. I'm looking for an ASUS Z270I STRIX, would there be any point contacting the company?
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Jun 20, 2017 09:00
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This morning my computer was in sleep mode. I turned it on and heard a sizzle and smelled smoke. Little wisps came out the back. The computer will no longer power on. Turns out the wife had spilled some beer on the computer that had gone through the venting grate and not made me aware. I need to replace this computer asap but I wanted to know if there's a way to identify which parts work and which don't. If there isn't, I wanted to know if I risk causing damage to new parts by buying all replacement pieces and at first using new mobo, plug old parts in to see if it works and then swapping out new parts for old ones till the computer runs properly.
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Jun 20, 2017 15:17
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Open the case and look for stains and burn marks. Just based on the layout of most cases I would assume a fried motherboard, videocard, and/or power supply.
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Jun 20, 2017 16:24
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Alereon posted:Open the case and look for stains and burn marks. Just based on the layout of most cases I would assume a fried motherboard, videocard, and/or power supply. Thankfully the video card doesn't appear damaged. I went out and got replacement parts. If I plug old parts into the new motherboard to see if they still work, is there any risk of damaging the new motherboard? I'm using a new PSU because I really don't want to risk it frying any of the new parts if it's damaged. Also, can I test my old CPU without a heat sink on it to see if it boots up? Or is that unsafe?
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Jun 20, 2017 21:03
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walruscat posted:Also, can I test my old CPU without a heat sink on it to see if it boots up? Or is that unsafe? Yes, but not for long. Keep a finger on it and if/when it gets too hot to touch, turn off using the power supply switch.
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Jun 20, 2017 21:30
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walruscat posted:Also, can I test my old CPU without a heat sink on it to see if it boots up? Or is that unsafe? Don't bother, in the 15 years I've spent testing PC components I think I've run across a failed Intel CPU once.
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Jun 20, 2017 21:45
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