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It’s an Ultrastar 7k4000 according to my Amazon purchase history. The reviews only mention premature failure, nothing about strange SMART info. I’ll do a controlled test tonight, leaving the system on for a set time and seeing how much the power on time changes over that time. I didn’t realize those may increment differently. Edit: I think its the Samsung SSD under-reporting the power on time. I've been watching it since 1:30 today, the HGST drive incremented by two hours, the Samsung SSD hasn't incremented at all. LordOfThePants fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Aug 6, 2020 |
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Aug 6, 2020 08:57
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I read a review that says ThinkPad P53 goes together with some fancy dock that supplies it with 230W of juice that it needs. Does this mean a "weaker" dock will not work? Even if I plug the charger also into the laptop? I have some T490s with a dock right now but both are much less power hungry models for sure. Do I need to buy a new dock if I buy the P53?
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Aug 6, 2020 20:23
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EssOEss posted:I read a review that says ThinkPad P53 goes together with some fancy dock that supplies it with 230W of juice that it needs. Does this mean a "weaker" dock will not work? Even if I plug the charger also into the laptop? I have some T490s with a dock right now but both are much less power hungry models for sure. Do I need to buy a new dock if I buy the P53? Typically a lower-powered power supply will just charge the device slower as long as the load doesn't exceed the supply. Looking through the compatible docks, there are lower powered devices that are listed as compatible for that laptop. Addivtioinally, there is a big excel spreadsheet that lists laptop accessory compatibilty, and there are more than a few docks that the P53 works with. The fancy dock has separate power and data wires for the cable between the dock and the laptop, and also has a lower-wattage connector for 135/65 power adapters, which seems to imply that there isn't anything special about this dock beyond the combined power and data cable. You shouldn't run into any problems using both a lower-powered dock and the standard power supply if you need the extra juice. If your current dock is one that you actually place your laptop onto though, then you'll more than likely have to buy a new one.
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Aug 6, 2020 23:07
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Friend of mine is trying to get a Corsair H115i RGB Pro XT AIO cooler working, but is having some weird problems with it. Two outcomes with he boots up the PC with different wiring setups: 1) CPU pump lights up and no fans in the PC run at all, and if left on for only a little, smoke beings to come out from the CPU block. or 2) The CPU pump doesn’t light up and all fans in the PC run at 100%, but CPU temps start at 50 and keep going up (I'm guessing this is because the pump isn't receiving power somehow?). Right now he's got the cooler wired as: the USB connected to the mobo, the header directly on the pump connected to CPU_FAN, and the two female headers connected to the radiator fans. Is there something he's missing? This is an RMA'd unit btw, the first one exhibited the same problem, even the smoke.
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Aug 7, 2020 20:48
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Anyone use the Logitech G703 wireless mouse? On both PC and Mac, when it's gone to sleep and I wake it up, the sensitivity is high for a few seconds and then the sensitivity I set in the GHUB software kicks in and it's fine again. Wondering if anyone's come across that, and a way to solve it. Searching online and Logitech support aren't helping, and since it's happening across different operating systems I assume it's a "feature" and not a bug.
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Aug 7, 2020 22:15
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teagone posted:Friend of mine is trying to get a Corsair H115i RGB Pro XT AIO cooler working, but is having some weird problems with it. Two outcomes with he boots up the PC with different wiring setups: Wtf? Have they correctly put thermal paste on?
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Aug 7, 2020 22:20
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That's a pretty funny one. Have they tried a cheap air cooler like a hyper evo 212 or w/e it's called?
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Aug 7, 2020 22:25
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CyberPingu posted:Wtf? Yeah, thermal paste application is fine. What are the odds that he just received a defective AIO twice in a row that exhibits the exact same problem? Lol. Also, just moments before the CPU block starts to smoke, the RGB lightning on the block goes a solid red.
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Aug 7, 2020 22:26
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I'd get them to try with a totally different cooler. It's not out of the realms of possibility that they have received a previously RMAd block that's been repaired and shipped back out.
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Aug 7, 2020 22:32
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Touchdown Boy posted:Ive been using a Dell USB 104-Key Mechanical Multimedia Keyboard w/Volume Knob SK-8135 (https://imgur.com/vuMFlH7) for years now, it was the standard one that came with a PC I got about 8 years ago so I am thinking Im about due an upgrade. I was looking around and it seems like the volume feature is either seperate these days or some sort of scroll bar I dont like the look of. For what it's worth, I have a collection of various Dell media control keyboards (and at least one of that same one you posted) because they're actually really good. I say if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Unless you have an itch to get into mechanical keyboards... If that's the case then I say please come join us in the Mechanical Keyboards thread so I can recommend you an "affordable" replacement with a rotary encoder like the Satisfaction75.
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Aug 7, 2020 22:33
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teagone posted:Friend of mine is trying to get a Corsair H115i RGB Pro XT AIO cooler working, but is having some weird problems with it. Two outcomes with he boots up the PC with different wiring setups: The manual also says to connect the pump power to a SATA power cable. But the magic smoke coming out of the pump sounds bad. Is he maybe using a modular power supply with mixed up cables from an old one?
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Aug 7, 2020 22:35
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CyberPingu posted:I'd get them to try with a totally different cooler. Yeah, that's what my gut is telling me. Here's a video of the CPU block behavior: https://i.imgur.com/CiO4Aar.mp4 The moment it turns red, he cuts off the power because if he doesn't, that's when the smoke starts.
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Aug 7, 2020 22:36
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Geemer posted:The manual also says to connect the pump power to a SATA power cable. But the magic smoke coming out of the pump sounds bad. Is he maybe using a modular power supply with mixed up cables from an old one? Oh yeah, forgot to mention that. SATA is connected too... but I just asked and he's using the old SATA power cable from a previous PSU. I asked him to try the SATA power cable that came with the new PSU instead.
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Aug 7, 2020 22:41
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How does he know the smoke isn't coming out of the CPU? He needs to pick up a cheap cooler to try.
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Aug 7, 2020 22:50
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VelociBacon posted:How does he know the smoke isn't coming out of the CPU? He needs to pick up a cheap cooler to try. Because of the second outcome; he's able to post into BIOS, but the CPU temp starts at like 40-50C, then continues to rise to past 80C—this is likely (I'm assuming) because the pump light on the AIO doesn't come on, meaning the pump isn't working. When the pump light does come on, that's when the smoke happens. teagone posted:Oh yeah, forgot to mention that. SATA is connected too... but I just asked and he's using the old SATA power cable from a previous PSU. I asked him to try the SATA power cable that came with the new PSU instead. Also, just had him try the other SATA cable, and basically the second outcome happened: all fans in the PC start up at 100% max speed, but no light on the AIO. Was able to post into BIOS and see CPU temps rise from 40C to well past 80C before shutting down the PC again. teagone fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Aug 7, 2020 |
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Aug 7, 2020 22:54
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Either that AIO is hosed or the motherboard is. I'd RMA it again and/or buy another brand. Actually, I'd just get an air cooler but that's me, because they're hard to gently caress up.
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Aug 7, 2020 23:12
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Nothing should generate smoke even if the pump itself is not spinning. Are you sure your friend didn't leave the plastic cover on the thermal interface on? Alternatively if the pump itself could be smoking from resistance while trying to spin I guess but jesus christ I wouldn't keep that in a computer. Sent it back.
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Aug 7, 2020 23:14
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teagone posted:Also, just had him try the other SATA cable, and basically the second outcome happened: all fans in the PC start up at 100% max speed, but no light on the AIO. Was able to post into BIOS and see CPU temps rise from 40C to well past 80C before shutting down the PC again. The last time I had an issue like this it was two fold: A corner of the heatsink had come loose and wasn't fully secured ON the back of the motherboard. THe other half was not relevant: the fans on CPU weren't set to turn on below a certain CPU temp threshold, so I though the fan had died. Easy fix in bios. Less Fat Luke posted:Nothing should generate smoke even if the pump itself is not spinning. Are you sure your friend didn't leave the plastic cover on the thermal interface on? miiight want to check that too.
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Aug 8, 2020 00:26
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Everything was installed properly, twice over since he was working with an RMA unit when I started to help him, and it still had the same issue. He ended up just ordering a Dark Rock Pro 4.
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Aug 8, 2020 02:01
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teagone posted:Everything was installed properly, twice over since he was working with an RMA unit when I started to help him, and it still had the same issue. He ended up just ordering a Dark Rock Pro 4. If you're going with a fan, why not Noctua? I may be just old, but Noctua are/were the golden standard when it comes to air cooling.
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Aug 8, 2020 03:06
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Volguus posted:If you're going with a fan, why not Noctua? I may be just old, but Noctua are/were the golden standard when it comes to air cooling. The DRP4 clears the CPU cooler height clearance of 165mm for his case (NZXT H510i) — DRP4 height is just under 163mm. I guess the comparable offering is the Noctua NH-D15, which is exactly 165mm with fans installed. I wanted to give him at least some headroom lol. It'll be cooling a 10700K. [edit] The DRP4 is also readily available on Amazon. The blacked out version of NH-D15 isn't in stock atm, not until the 14th. [edit 2] It looks like the regular NH-D15 with the brown fans and silver heatsink stack is in stock, but I'm pretty sure my friend wouldn't go for that color scheme lol. teagone fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Aug 8, 2020 |
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Aug 8, 2020 03:22
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teagone posted:The DRP4 clears the CPU cooler height clearance of 165mm for his case (NZXT H510i) — DRP4 height is just under 163mm. I guess the comparable offering is the Noctua NH-D15, which is exactly 165mm with fans installed. I wanted to give him at least some headroom lol. It'll be cooling a 10700K. Oh, color. That's ... interesting.
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Aug 8, 2020 03:57
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I bought the Lenovo M14 portable monitor to use with my Thinkpad X1 Carbon (6th Gen) and am very happy with it, it is light and looks good and runs off a single usb-C cable. https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/thinkvisionM14 I bought the USB-C mini dock, assuming the video signal would pass thru the usb-C-out on the dock, and that is not the case. Doing some reading, I think I understand why. (no DP1.2 alt mode on the dock's usb-c port) https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/accessories-and-monitors/docking/universal-cable-docks-usb/Lenovo-USB-C-Mini-Dock-US/p/40AU0065US Is there some sort of HDMI - to - DP1.2(over usb-C) cable I could use to go from dock to M14? Or should I just return this dock and look for a better solution?
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Aug 8, 2020 04:43
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Volguus posted:Oh, color. That's ... interesting. The H510i case has a glass side panel, and every other component he has is either black or silver, so the included Noctua fans would be an eyesore for him. I'll cop to picking components based on aesthetic sometimes too. I also suppose he wanted to do RGB since he got the 510i, but with the trouble he's had trying to get the Corsair AIO he picked out work, he said never again lmao.
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Aug 8, 2020 05:36
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Tbf that's why I didn't go with Noctua too. Not a fan of the leather couch look.
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Aug 8, 2020 08:10
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teagone posted:The H510i case has a glass side panel, and every other component he has is either black or silver, so the included Noctua fans would be an eyesore for him. I'll cop to picking components based on aesthetic sometimes too. I also suppose he wanted to do RGB since he got the 510i, but with the trouble he's had trying to get the Corsair AIO he picked out work, he said never again lmao.
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Aug 8, 2020 08:38
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real_scud posted:Tell him to get an Arctic Liquid Freezer II, or EKWB AiO if he wants an AiO. The Corsair is a piece of crap. I've had no issues with the H100i Platinum tbf.
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Aug 8, 2020 08:48
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My h115i pro has been fantastic. Very little smoke.
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Aug 8, 2020 08:50
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Can you use a single power line adapter at the source with multiple power line adapter receivers, or do you need a pair each time? As in say I have the modem downstairs, and two rooms upstairs. Would i need two adapters downstairs if I want two receiving adapters upstairs?
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Aug 8, 2020 23:08
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No, it's a single network - basically WiFi, but over power cables - just way worse. Powerline is terrible, only use it if you have absolutely no other choice. If you have any kind of DSL-based internet (if it comes through a phone line, especially when it is high-speed), it will interfere with that as well.
Fame Douglas fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Aug 8, 2020 |
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Aug 8, 2020 23:35
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Fame Douglas posted:No, it's a single network - basically WiFi, but over power cables - just way worse. Powerline is terrible, only use it if you have absolutely no other choice. If you have any kind of DSL-based internet (if it comes through a phone line, especially when it is high-speed), it will interfere with that as well. Great. :[ How's it terrible? Unreliable signal?
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Aug 8, 2020 23:41
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Rinkles posted:Great. :[ I don't have any issues with it. It isn't as fast as Wifi but my connection is 100% stable with it.
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Aug 8, 2020 23:46
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It's very susceptible to any kind of interference, like a refrigerator or vacuum cleaner could disrupt the signal severely. And getting 10% of the bandwidth advertised is a realistic "best case scenario". In addition, Powerline induces way more latency than WiFi. Absolutely don't use if it you have a DSL connection, otherwise, use it if it's a last resort. WiFi is way better. Fame Douglas fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Aug 8, 2020 |
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Aug 8, 2020 23:47
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Fame Douglas posted:
I have never seen this.
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Aug 8, 2020 23:48
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MarcusSA posted:I have never seen this. It's not an extreme difference, but it's absolutely noticeable. It's in the 10-20 ms range, which isn't insignificant.
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Aug 8, 2020 23:50
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Fame Douglas posted:It's not an extreme difference, but it's absolutely noticeable. It's in the 10-20 ms range, which isn't insignificant.  I check my pings pretty often and they are always in the 18ms range which I don't think wifi does much better then that. Edit: Its about a 4ms difference. I just checked. 14 ms on wifi vs 18ms on Powerline. Pinging google.com
MarcusSA fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Aug 9, 2020 |
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Aug 9, 2020 00:01
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WiFi will absolutely provide a better and more consistent experience most of the time. Powerline is something you use when you have no other choice.
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Aug 9, 2020 00:05
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I'm pinging my router through a powerline right now and the latency is 1-2ms
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Aug 9, 2020 00:05
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Yes, Powerline can provide a satisfying experience, but it's simply dependent on so many variables as to not be terrible (and even then, it's comparatively slow) it's very hard to recommend. Especially with the severe interference issues it causes and is degraded by (like the aforementioned refrigerators).
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Aug 9, 2020 00:06
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The problem for me was that the wifi signal was weak and inconsistent
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Aug 9, 2020 00:07
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