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Yeah, with a backup, just replace it when it fails. But if you're doing lifecycle planning, then statistically reliability will fall off a cliff at the five year mark, so right about now. It's as good a time as you'll get, other than the drive failing, to consider replacing it.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:20
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I've put my Intel wireless adapter in the bottom slot of my motherboard (because that was the only short slot available), but the Intel software diagnostics says the "Wireless Hardware is not bound to transport driver". (ASUS P55.) It can't be that the Bluetooth is connected to the wrong pins, I assume. Nothing appears to show up in Device Manager, but Windows appeared to look for drivers, when I booted. EDIT: Bluetooth works now, and the wireless adapter shows up in Device Manager, but I still get the same error. The automatic driver tool does not appear to have a newer driver version. EDIT2: Uninstalling the driver and running the updater tool once more fixed it. Even though the software said I had the same versio and threw an error, but hey. ufarn fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Mar 18, 2015 |
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Mar 17, 2015 20:12
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Is there any benefit to a normal sized Sd card instead of a micro sd assuming they have the exact same specs?
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Mar 19, 2015 18:00
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Bigass Moth posted:Is there any benefit to a normal sized Sd card instead of a micro sd assuming they have the exact same specs? Unless you're buying a high-end microSD a regular SD will generally have faster read/write speeds. If speed isn't a factor for your application I'd buy whichever is cheaper assuming all other specs are roughly equal.
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Mar 19, 2015 18:13
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What's the current go-to for thermal interface material? My laptop's C2D is getting hot and noisy even with dust blown out so it's time for a fresh coat. Also, are thermal pads still a thing? Any good ones out there?
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Mar 21, 2015 00:12
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Any thermal paste should be fine, even the large generic tubes of white silicone grease. If your laptop has a thermal pad on the GPU or chipset, you'll want to replace that with a new piece of thermal pad of the same thickness instead of trying to fill the 1mm gap with thermal paste.
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Mar 21, 2015 00:27
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Wilford Cutlery posted:What's the current go-to for thermal interface material? My laptop's C2D is getting hot and noisy even with dust blown out so it's time for a fresh coat. For extreme performance there's CoolLaboratory Liquid Pro (CLP), which is literally a liquid metal alloy (Gallium-based I think). The downsides are its high electrical conductivity and tendency to bead up and get places it shouldn't like Mercury, the fact that it will immediately dissolve aluminum so you have to be careful about what metals you let it touch, and the difficulty of applying and cleaning it. There's another option called CoolLaboratory Liquid Ultra (CLU) with slightly higher performance and supposedly easier application, but it's not recommended because it solidifies with time. Don't use ever thermal pads unless you're cooling components that can't be touched directly, like the pads that cover the irregular VRM area on videocards. If you don't need to fill space or prevent electrical contact just use non-conductive thermal paste. I'm not sure on good thermal pad choices if you do need to replace pads. Alereon fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Mar 21, 2015 |
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Mar 21, 2015 17:34
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I just built a computer and my knowledge is pretty limited but I have some decent friends helping so it went well. The computer runs fine but it doesnt stay off. When I shut it down it just restarts. It's not that big of deal because I dont pay for power here but it seems like that shouldnt be like that. RAIDMAX RX-850AE 850W ASRock Z97 Extreme3 LGA 1150 Intel Z97 XFX R9-280X-TDFD Radeon R9 280X 3GB Intel Core i5-4690K Devil's Canyon Quad-Core 3.5GHz LGA 1150 Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) SAMSUNG 850 EVO-Series MZ-75E250B/AM 2.5" 250GB SATA III Does anyone have a similiar problem or any known issues with any of these components I might want to look further into? Not having a ton of luck or looking for the right thing on google.
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Mar 21, 2015 18:08
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Raidmax power supplies are garbage, and running a hot video card like a 280X on one is asking for trouble. It may or may not be the source of your problem, but it'd be a good idea to shop for a replacement no matter what. Remember, anybody can print a sticker that has a big wattage number on it, and there are a lot of bottom-feeders in the PSU market that count on the fact that most people won't ever load the unit to anywhere near its rated specs. If it's not your power supply, it's your motherboard.
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Mar 21, 2015 18:23
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LingcodKilla posted:I just built a computer and my knowledge is pretty limited but I have some decent friends helping so it went well. The computer runs fine but it doesnt stay off. When I shut it down it just restarts. It's not that big of deal because I dont pay for power here but it seems like that shouldnt be like that. You might look to see if the power switch is physically able to move freely. I had a PC that would randomly reset every few days and it turned out that the physical cover of the reset switch would lightly press on it, making it very occasionally reset the pc. I doubt turning itself back on would be the only thing the power switch on yours would do but it's worth looking. You can also check the motherboard settings for "auto power on" and wake on lan and that sort of stuff.
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Mar 21, 2015 20:17
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Space Gopher posted:Raidmax power supplies are garbage, and running a hot video card like a 280X on one is asking for trouble. It may or may not be the source of your problem, but it'd be a good idea to shop for a replacement no matter what. Remember, anybody can print a sticker that has a big wattage number on it, and there are a lot of bottom-feeders in the PSU market that count on the fact that most people won't ever load the unit to anywhere near its rated specs.
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Mar 21, 2015 21:02
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Alereon posted:I think it's pretty likely to be the power supply, as it's very old (2011) and thus not compatible with modern CPUs, and it was rather low-quality at launch. The power supply and motherboard are the foundation of a good system and not really the right place to cut corners. Well I can live with the problem for the time being but I guess I'll replace it as soon as I can.
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Mar 22, 2015 03:26
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I just ordered a new computer for what I thought was a good deal off of Newegg today, only to find one for the same price with a much better processor when I got home from work. I'm ready to cancel the old order and do this one instead, but first I need to know something. The one I ordered has an Nvidia GTX 960 2GB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883230005 The one I saw later also has a GTX 960, ZOTAC branding when you look at the pictures if that matters. It doesn't explicitly say that it's 2GB. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883102057 Anyway, here's the question. Is there a 1 GB GTX 960, or are they all 2GB? As far as I can tell they're all 2 GB, but I want to make sure before dropping 800 bones on it. Forgive my ignorance, I haven't upgraded my computer since 2008 and haven't really been following along since then. 
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Mar 22, 2015 04:44
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THE loving MOON posted:I just ordered a new computer for what I thought was a good deal off of Newegg today, only to find one for the same price with a much better processor when I got home from work. I'm ready to cancel the old order and do this one instead, but first I need to know something. Neither of those AMD processors are going to be good for gaming compared to even low end Intel CPUs. Since you're looking at gaming video cards, I'd highly suggest avoiding both of those computers entirely if that's what you plan to do with it. If you want build advice or even just computer picking advice, please hit up the Parts Picking Megathread, it's not just for building PCs.
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Mar 22, 2015 04:50
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Rexxed posted:Neither of those AMD processors are going to be good for gaming compared to even low end Intel CPUs. Since you're looking at gaming video cards, I'd highly suggest avoiding both of those computers entirely if that's what you plan to do with it. If you want build advice or even just computer picking advice, please hit up the Parts Picking Megathread, it's not just for building PCs. Alright, thanks I'll do that.
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Mar 22, 2015 04:53
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Im a bit out of the Loop on PC building. Whats a smart way to cool my Computer? I got a 120mm fan mount in the back, two 92mm on the left side above the cpu/gpu and two 92mm mounts on the right side blowing on the harddrives. How much of the mounts do i actually need to equip with fans? A 120mm in the back seems useful, but with the GPU und PSU already sucking air out of the case don't i need some (filtered) fans to blow air into the case to prevent underpressure which sucks in dust through all the slits and holes that arent filtered? If so, how many would make sense? I want to Keep the noise down obviously.
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Mar 27, 2015 12:23
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Shai-Hulud posted:Im a bit out of the Loop on PC building. Depends on the temperatures that you're running on your CPU and GPU, if they're in line with what's normal your cooling is fine.
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Mar 27, 2015 13:07
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I have an old targus laptop fan chillpad thing and the cable broke. I don't know what the cable is called - please help me so I can fry's/newegg the cable i'm looking for. On one end it's USB which plugs into my laptop and the other is a small power thingy that plugs into the fan with this symbol on it.  i went into radioshack who said they had never seen a cable like this before
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Mar 27, 2015 22:06
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Fight Club Sandwich posted:I have an old targus laptop fan chillpad thing and the cable broke. I don't know what the cable is called - please help me so I can fry's/newegg the cable i'm looking for. On one end it's USB which plugs into my laptop and the other is a small power thingy that plugs into the fan with this symbol on it. That indicates whether the tip should be positive or negative, it can be replaced by an appropriately sized barrel power connector ont he one end with the right polarity, and either a 5 volt wall wart or a usb plug on the other. You want something like this, though it might need to be a different size: http://www.walmart.com/ip/StarTech-1m-USB-to-Type-N-Barrel-5V-DC-Power-Cable-Universal/22081650
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Mar 27, 2015 22:23
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I think pretty much every power brick has this labeled somewhere,
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Mar 27, 2015 23:15
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Fight Club Sandwich posted:I have an old targus laptop fan chillpad thing and the cable broke. I don't know what the cable is called - please help me so I can fry's/newegg the cable i'm looking for. On one end it's USB which plugs into my laptop and the other is a small power thingy that plugs into the fan with this symbol on it. I'm guessing it looks like this?  That's a very odd cable that may be hard to find. Reporting it may be your best bet.
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Mar 28, 2015 01:55
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FCKGW posted:I'm guessing it looks like this? yes that's the one. good poo poo i couldn't even find the fan itself with the serial number (was looking for the fan so i could try to find the specs and see if they listed the cable) What do you mean reporting it? If it's too much trouble I can grab a new chillpad thing for like $10-20 so not a huge loss
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Mar 28, 2015 02:22
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Fight Club Sandwich posted:yes that's the one. good poo poo i couldn't even find the fan itself with the serial number (was looking for the fan so i could try to find the specs and see if they listed the cable) Looks like something like this, but you'd have to check the size on the barrel jack and make sure it's correct.. There are, as you'll see in the reviews, Type N barrel jack like the one on this, and Type M which is a different size and a different listing. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Type-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B009JXJITS
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Mar 28, 2015 02:30
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Fight Club Sandwich posted:yes that's the one. good poo poo i couldn't even find the fan itself with the serial number (was looking for the fan so i could try to find the specs and see if they listed the cable) Sorry, I meant repairing it, spellcheck.
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Mar 28, 2015 05:27
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I was going to start looking for a nice webcam, and I figured I'd just ask here if anyone knows of a brand other than Logitech that makes a nice one.
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Mar 28, 2015 10:45
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Originally posted in the wrong thread (never keep multiple reply tabs open). Seeking advice on stepping into watercooling for fun and I'm dead set on my future build being ITX, so watercooling might be necessary. I still have my old C2Q system, and to get some experience I was scouring for a watercooler that works on LGA775 and LGA1150. Is the Nepton 140XL a good choice? or should I look elsewhere? Is there a better one, or since I already have my Noctua for my 4690k, forget about trying to use it in another system and go cheap?
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Mar 28, 2015 16:32
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FaustianQ posted:Seeking advice on stepping into watercooling for fun and I'm dead set on my future build being ITX, so watercooling might be necessary. I still have my old C2Q system, and to get some experience I was scouring for a watercooler that works on LGA775 and LGA1150. Is the Nepton 140XL a good choice? or should I look elsewhere? Is there a better one, or since I already have my Noctua for my 4690k, forget about trying to use it in another system and go cheap?
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Mar 28, 2015 16:37
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Touchfuzzy posted:I was going to start looking for a nice webcam, and I figured I'd just ask here if anyone knows of a brand other than Logitech that makes a nice one.
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Mar 28, 2015 17:17
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My laptop (lenovo y410p) is ~3 years old and in the last few days has been taking much longer to shut down/start up. I don't think it's a software thing since I'm on a fairly fresh 8.1 install (the OS got corrupted on a shutdown a month ago and I had to reinstall). Between the recent file corruption with no obvious cause and longer startup times I'm worried the laptop hardware is starting to fail. All my drivers are up to date and diagnostic checks on the hard drive say it's fine. Am I overreacting or should I replace it ASAP?
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Mar 31, 2015 20:37
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Download the portable standard version w/o ads of CrystalDiskInfo and run it: http://crystalmark.info/download/index-e.html See if it shows the drive as bad or caution, which would mean you'll need a new drive. If the drive comes up clean you might have a bad stick of RAM or possibly a failing mainboard. Replacing RAM is doable if necessary, but a laptop mainboard failing means time to get a new laptop.
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Mar 31, 2015 20:57
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yikes, it says caution. Thanks for the link, looks like I'm getting a new drive.
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Mar 31, 2015 21:05
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Hog Inspector posted:yikes, it says caution. Thanks for the link, looks like I'm getting a new drive.
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Apr 1, 2015 07:46
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No worries, I've been backing it up daily. This laptop has been flaky since I got it, no way would I gamble on its integrity. It actually stopped booting today. SSD on the way. Good thing I'm careful!
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Apr 1, 2015 23:19
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I guess this is probably at least as appropriate as asking in IYG, so... are one-way HDMI cables a thing, provided they're not crazy active extenders or anything weird? I need to get video INTO a big AIO "tablet"/portable monitor, which has a micro/type D connector on it; it came with a cable that works just fine for this purpose, and it's meant to be used as a portable monitor, there's a button in the OSD to switch to HDMI input, I'm not trying to make it do anything crazy. But I just bought http://www.amazon.com/CNE82393-6-Feet-Micro-Ethernet-Motorola/dp/B003Y3TS4Y/ because I'm out of town and forgot the cable that came with it, and it doesn't work. My laptop can see the monitor, and presumably the tablet/monitor would be able to output to a real monitor/projector/whatever, but when I switch it to HDMI input it's not getting anything. Looking more closely, the product description says it "supports" type A output and type D input. What the gently caress is this nonsense? I can't even find any type A<->D cables that are explicitly two-way, or at least A->D.
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Apr 2, 2015 01:31
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Straker posted:I guess this is probably at least as appropriate as asking in IYG, so... are one-way HDMI cables a thing, provided they're not crazy active extenders or anything weird? I need to get video INTO a big AIO "tablet"/portable monitor, which has a micro/type D connector on it; it came with a cable that works just fine for this purpose, and it's meant to be used as a portable monitor, there's a button in the OSD to switch to HDMI input, I'm not trying to make it do anything crazy. But I just bought http://www.amazon.com/CNE82393-6-Feet-Micro-Ethernet-Motorola/dp/B003Y3TS4Y/ because I'm out of town and forgot the cable that came with it, and it doesn't work. My laptop can see the monitor, and presumably the tablet/monitor would be able to output to a real monitor/projector/whatever, but when I switch it to HDMI input it's not getting anything. Looking more closely, the product description says it "supports" type A output and type D input. What the gently caress is this nonsense? I can't even find any type A<->D cables that are explicitly two-way, or at least A->D. Typically they're just labeled that way because 99% of the time, you're connecting an A size connector on a display to the D size connector on like a phone or tablet. If it only went one way, it wouldn't really be able to work.
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Apr 2, 2015 01:49
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Straker posted:I guess this is probably at least as appropriate as asking in IYG, so... are one-way HDMI cables a thing, provided they're not crazy active extenders or anything weird? I need to get video INTO a big AIO "tablet"/portable monitor, which has a micro/type D connector on it; it came with a cable that works just fine for this purpose, and it's meant to be used as a portable monitor, there's a button in the OSD to switch to HDMI input, I'm not trying to make it do anything crazy. But I just bought http://www.amazon.com/CNE82393-6-Feet-Micro-Ethernet-Motorola/dp/B003Y3TS4Y/ because I'm out of town and forgot the cable that came with it, and it doesn't work. My laptop can see the monitor, and presumably the tablet/monitor would be able to output to a real monitor/projector/whatever, but when I switch it to HDMI input it's not getting anything. Looking more closely, the product description says it "supports" type A output and type D input. What the gently caress is this nonsense? I can't even find any type A<->D cables that are explicitly two-way, or at least A->D. Some third party HDMI cables don't always follow the full HDMI specs for cables. This was an issue for me when I was using a Droid Bionic Lapdock (cell phone monitor/keyboard/mouse thingy) with a computer and needed the right micro-hdmi to full size hdmi adapter cable. The lapdock won't turn on its screen unless it gets proper signaling through the cable and the first cable I bought didn't pass that connection through. I had to purchase another one which did. Here's a lot of information about the issue and a workaround for the specific case I mentioned: http://www.element14.com/community/community/raspberry-pi/blog/2012/09/27/raspberry-pi-lapdock-hdmi-cable-work-around In your case you'll probably just need to get a different cable and give it another shot. I ended up buying both of the cables I got on ebay and the one with the red HDMI sticker on one end didn't work while one that looked a lot like the one you bought did. It wasn't branded especially well but it was sold as: 10FT Premium HDMI to Micro HDMI Cable M/M for HTC EVO 4G / Droid X Phones / Xoom The one that didn't work for me was: Premium 3FT Micro HDMI to HDMI Cable Male to Male Cell Phone HTC EVO 4G 3 FT Since the listing titles are so similar it seems like a bit of a crapshoot and since they're from 2013 I don't have the original listings or anything to link unfortunately.
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Apr 2, 2015 02:38
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So I was toying around with a super old Kentsfield build (ASrock775i65) and was a bit confounded after setting it up, that it wouldn't even post - everything would spin up, but no sounds nor visual feed. So I pulled the RAM and put in a 512MB test piece and it suddenly boots up, but will always BSOD just before hitting Win7 login screen. Is this a combination of bad board and bad RAM? I thought Win 7 would still boot with 512. Also, I've decided to dedicate my Yorkfield build to folding, as I've got an offer for 50$ for 2 GTX285s. According to Toms, 285s are still okay for gaming, but is there a better solution under 100$ for folding? I'm new but eager, not sure what I need.
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Apr 3, 2015 03:59
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FaustianQ posted:So I was toying around with a super old Kentsfield build (ASrock775i65) and was a bit confounded after setting it up, that it wouldn't even post - everything would spin up, but no sounds nor visual feed. So I pulled the RAM and put in a 512MB test piece and it suddenly boots up, but will always BSOD just before hitting Win7 login screen. Is this a combination of bad board and bad RAM? I thought Win 7 would still boot with 512. Check the motherboard for bulging capacitors. Boot it up with a memtest86 disc and see if it gets memory errors. If something was going bad on the board or with the memory before it was shut down for good it may have corrupted the windows install, or the HD may even be bad.
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Apr 3, 2015 05:20
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I have a male USB A to micro USB cable. One end goes into a charger, the other end goes into the on-the-go compatible USB 2 port on my Windows tablet. This works fine. However, it is pretty short, like 2 Ft or something. I thought I'd be smart and just add a cheap USB A male to USB A female cable (aka an extension lead) between the charger and the original cable. This doesn't work well. The tablet still charges, but it takes an extraordinary long time. Couldn't get a full charge overnight with the tablet off. I measured the extension lead through before I used it because it was cheap and I didn't trust it and every of the four pins connects through to the corresponding pin at the other end and nothing else. I don't understand what more there is to it. Apart from just a longer charging cable, what am I missing?
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Apr 3, 2015 11:01
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I put together my PC and installed windows 8.1, let it run for about a day and then finally got around to installing the latest nvidia drivers. Suddenly all text looks terrible: blurry, stretched, and not nearly as sharp as before. How do I get sharp text back? I tried playing with clear type, but that didn't seem to work
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Apr 3, 2015 13:25
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